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Write Up: Monitoring the 6.0L PSD.

399K views 227 replies 95 participants last post by  MtnTallPaul  
#1 · (Edited)
This topic has been requested a few times here on the ORG, but never a complete listing. This thread will be organized as its found on the Edge Insight CS or CTS units, but the variables apply regardless of the monitoring package used.

ScangaugeII Users: You'll find a list of usefull information for PIDs on post #51.

Dashboss Users: Here's a couple of threads for those looking to untilize this option:
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/239295-dashboss-monitoring-review.html
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/ge...org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/243507-dashboss-iphone-external-port-how.html

Autoenginuity Users: Which is the most intrusive monitoring package out there.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/diesel-diagnostics/162012-autoenginuity-tips-tricks.html

Edge Insight CS - Part #83730 - 2.4" Color Screen - does not support the Edge back-up camera. (2 analog gauge with a bar graph main display - with a max of 8 PIDs display)

Edge Insight CTS - Part #83830 - 4.3" Color Touch Screen - supports the Edge back-up camera. (3 analog gauge with 2 PID main display - with a max of 8 PIDs display)

Don't forget the isolation hose to get the sender attached to the fuel bowl test port: 6.0L Fuel Pressure Adapter
Your other option is to run a billet cap, and a set of hose off a 90* elbow.

Now the various PIDs to be watched:
Battery Voltage: Should read above 12.1v prior to the glow plugs shutting off and the alternator engaging. After that it will normally read between 13.0-14.3v, monitored for the health of the batteries and alternator.
*Engine Coolant Temp: Coolant temp. Normal 190-200*, Heavy Service 200-215*, Alarm Set 230*. If you are seeing temps under 185*, you may be seeing a thermostat that has failed open. While not a condition that will damage the motor, these trucks operate more efficiently at the 190-200* range.
Engine Load: This is the load on the motor itself, as seen by the PCM.
*Engine Oil Temp: Oil temp. Normal 5-15* above ECT when at operating temperature. Engine will defuel at 254* and go into limp mode. This is the critical value to watch, as it relays the health of your oil cooler. A spread of 15* or more between the ECT and EOT is the threshold for an oil cooler replacement/rebuild.
*FICM Voltage: Critical for the prevention of injector failure, and troubleshooting hard start/no start conditions. Normal 47.5-48.5v (Those running high voltage FICMs will only see 50.0v displayed as that is all the PCM recognizes) At no time when operating or during cranking should this valve drop below 45v, that's the threshold for a rebuild or upgrade to the FICM.
Gear with TCL: Here's the key thing, the Insight only counts the shifts. So it will show 1-5th gear and weather the TC is locked, it does not tell you which 4th gear the truck shifts to.
ICP Pressure (read as voltage on '03-'04MY trucks): This is effectively your HPO value. Truck will not start without 500psi, normally idles around 650psi, and at WOT with a full load it peaks at 4050psi.
Injector Pulse Width: This is the time of which your injectors are actually open. This value will vary quite a bit depending on throttle position, tuning, and will read 0 when descending grades when the motor has shifted to engine braking via the turbo.
Transmission Temp: Good to keep an eye on, as the stock gauge in the dash is an idiot light at best. Normal 150-190*, Towing 195-210*, Alarm 220*.
Turbo Boost: Normal 0-26psi under stock programing with peaks around 28-30psi.

Note:Here's the conversions for ICP Pressure reading voltage on the early trucks:
To start, volts need to be .82 (500.0 psi)
Operating values:
KOEO=0.2 (0.0 psi)
Below values are with engine at operating temp.
LOW IDLE=1.0 (625.5 psi)
HIGH IDLE=1.8 (high idle is 2500 rpms for this) (1400.0-1500.0psi)
OPERATING RANGE=.15 - 4.7 Volts (0.0 - 4050.0 psi)


Extra PIDs available:
Accel Pedal Position:
Barometric Pressure:
Corrected Speed ('03-'04 MY): Corrected speed for oversized tires.
Engine RPM:
Engine Run Time:
Injector Pulse Width: The time your injectors are open during the cycle. Valves are subject to change based on tuning and driving conditions.
Intake Air Temp: This is the temp at the IA1 sensor, so it will be close to the air temps under the hood.
Mass Air Flow: Value of the amount of air moving, will vary depending on tune and boost levels.
Mileage Coach:
MPG Instant: Real Time indication of computed fuel mileage.
MPG Average: Average indication of computed fuel mileage.
TCC Duty Cycle: Torque Convertor Duty Cycle
Turbo Boost: Normal 0-26psi under stock programing with peaks around 28-30psi.
Vehicle Speed ('03-'04 MY):
VGT Duty Cycle: The duty cycle of the turbo vanes themselves. Normal range 15-85%, Driving 40-60%, Idling will be higher, and WOT will appear lower.
Time 0-60mph: In performance monitoring
Time 1/4 Mile: In performance monitoring

Expandable System Parameters:
*Exhaust Gas Temp Probe: (Edge Part #98603 /w EAS starter, #98611 w/o) Very important if you tow heavy or run aftermarket tuning. Normal 650-850*, Heavy Service 800-1050*, Alarm Set 1250*. Now There are folks that have pushed this number to 1800* for short time periods (drag strip, show, or truck pulls), but for prolonged periods 1250* is the understood limit. For turbo longevity, during shut down wait for this figure to cool to 400* or less, to prevent oil from baking in the turbo itself.
*Fuel Pressure via 0-100psi Pressure Sender: (Edge Part #98607 requires the EAS kit) Important to prevent Fuel Injector Failure. Normal 50-65psi, Max 75psi - O-Ring starts leaking, Min 45psi - Injectors aren't being properly lubricated.
Oil Pressure via 0-100psi Pressure Sender: (Edge Part #98607 requires the EAS kit) Normal 12psi @ 700rpm, 24psi @ 1200rpm, 45psi @ 1800
Optional Temperatures (-40 to 300*F): (Edge Part 98608) For those who want independent senders for fluid temps.

Shortfalls: As I find issues I'll post them here.
-Boost levels with aftermarket turbos: The factory sender is a 2 bar (29.4psi) unit, and the factory programming defuels on overboost conditions. If you swap out turbos/injectors, it may benefit you to add a mechanical boost gauge.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...orum/6-0l-performance-parts-discussion/192210-attention-edge-insight-users.html

*Denotes a Vital Parameter you should be watching.

Note: This is still a work in progress, and as always I'm looking for information to complete this listing.

In the long-term it is my goal to have this thread include a sort of indication observed, root causes, and then solutions. I've started with the indications themselves for the moment until I can get more information organized and prepared.

Conditions to watch for, and corrective measures:
Note: I will be referencing the following thread throughout this post: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/ge...org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/204386-write-up-bullet-proofing-6-0l-psd.html

The dreaded Oil Cooler clogging:
This is a result of the coolant run by Ford, and the oil cooler's design. This is also the reason so many folks have discredited the 6.0L as a junk motor, and Ford has updated its strategy to throw a CEL for the deltas (latest flash only). What you are looking for on this condition is a 15* delta between the ECT and EOT while at operating temp while running around 65mph on a level grade (gives a solid baseline for your numbers). What to do about it, when your cooler gets to this point you have to make a few decisions: 1) Are you going to continue running Ford Gold? 2) How am I going to solve the EGR cooler? (delete, block, or upgrade) 3) How am I going to handle the oil cooler? (rebuild, replace, or upgrade to an external). I've covered most of the pros and cons of these in the bullet-proofing thread.

Fuel Pressure:
Running fuel pressure lower that 45psi will lead to injector failure from a lack of lubrication during the injection cycle. However, running pressure about 75psi, will result in fuel seeping by the o-rings and into your oil. This is the one attribute that doesn't get the attention from most of the aftermarket monitors, due to there is no factory sensor for it. Solving a low pressure condition: 1) the Blue Spring update from Ford. 2) Verification of the filters. 3) Upgrading to a Regulated Return setup, or aftermarket fuel system, depending on your injectors and tuning demands on the stock system.

FICM Voltage:
Another neglected aspect of the 6.0L that will lead to hard/no-start conditions and injector failure. Voltage on your FICM shouldn't ever be below 45v during start up of the truck, and should rest between 47.5-48.5v while at idle or driving. Those members with units with a 53v or 58v powerboard, be advised that only 50v will be noticed by the PCM, and relayed to your Monitor. For those who have low voltage: 1) Check the batteries, ensure you are seeing proper voltage and good cranking amps. Once you verify the batteries, you have a few options to solve the problem: 1) Get the kit to rebuild the FICM from Bullet Proof Diesel, maintaining your logic board, and current FICM tuning. 2) Send your FICM to a repair location (FICMrepair.com has some good reviews) 3) Get a new updated/upgraded unit from IDP or Swamps. 4)Get a new FICM from Ford (not the best answer out there).

Batteries and the Alternator:
Bad alternator is a pretty easy one to notice with an Insight, you will also have the battery light on the dash come on when the alternator isn't charging properly. As for batteries, I do suggest watching battery voltage at start up. This will allow you to see the drain on the cranking amps here. I can also tell you that if during cranking your battery voltage drops below 8v, your insight will shut off (wasn't intentional, but I was T/S a hard start condition, and watching voltage and it happened to me). For the FICM's powerboard health, you will want to ensure your float voltage (EOKO) is greater than 12.1v before starting the truck. If the batteries don't have enough power the FICM can't maintain it's 48v.

Engine Load, and Sticking Brakes:
When you start noticing more throttle being required to get the truck moving, or your MPGs suddenly dropping off, it may be time to take a look at Engine Load. This requires that you know what your normal percentage is running, be that 65mph on level grade like your ECT/EOT delta observation, or under normal driving conditions that you see. When you notice the Engine Load higher than normal, you can pump the brakes (seeing if its brakes sticking/dragging). You can back these observations up with Accel Postition. Mind you the absolute valves for this will be truck specific (Truck Weight, Gearing, Tires, Tune, etc.)
 
#2 ·
For the 03-04 year models the icp voltage is shown, not pressure. And I'm not even sure how the voltage reading correlates to pressure. Thanks for all the info.

Sent from my SCH-I500
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the heads up, I thought had come across that before. The post had been updated.

I'll see if I can dig something up on the matter of converting it.

long read but well worth it. going to be a sticky?

bailey
I intend for it to be a sticky the same way as the bullet-proofing thread. Kept here in the 6.0L General Section where we can continue to update and improve it.
 
#3 ·
Good info, and a great start. I have my CTS sitting at home, with the EGT temp probe in the mail.

Can't wait to get it going and play around with it.
 
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#4 ·
Thanks again CD, this is a great start
 
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#6 ·
It would be awesome if someone knows the voltage to pressure change
 
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#8 ·
Very informative! Thanx colo!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
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#9 ·
:thumb::thumb:
 
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#10 ·
Glad this one is getting watched, I've just added some more information to the original post:


Conditions to watch for, and corrective measures:
Note: I will be referencing the following thread throughout this post: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/ge...org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/204386-write-up-bullet-proofing-6-0l-psd.html

The dreaded Oil Cooler clogging:
This is a result of the coolant run by Ford, and the oil cooler's design. This is also the reason so many folks have discredited the 6.0L as a junk motor, and Ford has updated its strategy to throw a CEL for the deltas (latest flash only). What you are looking for on this condition is a 15* delta between the ECT and EOT while at operating temp while running around 65mph on a level grade (gives a solid baseline for your numbers). What to do about it, when your cooler gets to this point you have to make a few decisions: 1) Are you going to continue running Ford Gold? 2) How am I going to solve the EGR cooler? (delete, block, or upgrade) 3) How am I going to handle the oil cooler? (rebuild, replace, or upgrade to an external). I've covered most of the pros and cons of these in the bullet-proofing thread.

Fuel Pressure:
Running fuel pressure lower that 45psi will lead to injector failure from a lack of lubrication during the injection cycle. However, running pressure about 75psi, will result in fuel seeping by the o-rings and into your oil. This is the one attribute that doesn't get the attention from most of the aftermarket monitors, due to there is no factory sensor for it. Solving a low pressure condition: 1) the Blue Spring update from Ford. 2) Verification of the filters. 3) Upgrading to a Regulated Return setup, or aftermarket fuel system, depending on your injectors and tuning demands on the stock system.

FICM Voltage:
Another neglected aspect of the 6.0L that will lead to hard/no-start conditions and injector failure. Voltage on your FICM shouldn't ever be below 45v during start up of the truck, and should rest between 47.5-48.5v while at idle or driving. Those members with units with a 53v or 58v powerboard, be advised that only 50v will be noticed by the PCM, and relayed to your Monitor. For those who have low voltage: 1) Check the batteries, ensure you are seeing proper voltage and good cranking amps. Once you verify the batteries, you have a few options to solve the problem: 1) Get the kit to rebuild the FICM from Bullet Proof Diesel, maintaining your logic board, and current FICM tuning. 2) Send your FICM to a repair location (FICMrepair.com has some good reviews) 3) Get a new updated/upgraded unit from IDP or Swamps. 4)Get a new FICM from Ford (not the best answer out there).
 
#11 ·
ICP volts:

To start, volts need to be .82

Operating values:

KOEO=0.2
Below values are with engine at operating temp.
LOW IDLE=1.0
HIGH IDLE=1.8 (high idle is 2500 rpms for this)
OPERATING RANGE=.15 - 4.7 Volts

Comparison to PSI:

KOEO=0
LOW IDLE=625.5
HIGH IDLE=1400-1450
OPERATING RANGE=0-4045

These are Ford values.
 
#15 ·
Thank you for this information, I'll get it worked into the body of the main thread shortly.

Great Thread:woot:

Here's another vote for this to be made a Sticky
Great write up. My CTS is supposed to be here tomorrow so this was perfect timing. Thanks.
Glad its proving useful, y'all.
 
#12 ·
Thanks amd, awesome.

Sent from my SCH-I500
 
#13 ·
Great Thread:woot:

Here's another vote for this to be made a Sticky
 
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#14 ·
Great write up. My CTS is supposed to be here tomorrow so this was perfect timing. Thanks.
 
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#16 ·
Great info thanks

Sent from my DROID Pro using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
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#18 ·
Just added the following, and filled in a couple of more holes:

"Batteries and the Alternator:
Bad alternator is a pretty easy one to notice with an Insight, you will also have the battery light on the dash come on when the alternator isn't charging properly. As for batteries, I do suggest watching battery voltage at start up. This will allow you to see the drain on the cranking amps here. I can also tell you that if during cranking your battery voltage drops below 8v, your insight will shut off (wasn't intentional, but I was T/S a hard start condition, and watching voltage and it happened to me). For the FICM's powerboard health, you will want to ensure your float voltage (EOKO) is greater than 12.1v before starting the truck. If the batteries don't have enough power the FICM can't maintain it's 48v."

One thing I want to get into are the HPO issues and Turbo Sticking / Overboost symptoms. If any of y'all have reading that associate with those conditions (or anything I haven't covered). Feel free to post up, or shoot me a PM.
 
#22 ·
So if I'm seeing 11.6-11.9 eoko, would that indicate failing batteries? Also, I'm seeing low 13's/high 12's after alt kicks on and used to see high 13's most of the time. Hoping it's batteries and not the Alt. Truck starts fine and ficm voltage is 47.5-48.5 at all times.

Thanks!!!
 
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#19 ·
Thread has been stuck. Thank you, Ben, for your efforts! :thumb:
 
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#20 ·
Thanks for another Sticky. I appreciate being able to get all this information in one location. :thumb: And still be able to have a working document.
 
#21 ·
CD, I knew this would be well received, Thanks again
 
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#24 ·
Once again you have provided some great info Benjamin. Well done sir!:thumb:
 
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#26 ·
No your batteries are ok just loosing there life a wee bit. Dont replace them yet.. While the truck is running the batteries should be around 12.3 and climb to 13.7-14.0 maybe if fresh.
 
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#27 ·
Not the case, low float volage on the batteries will lead to FICM and Injector failures. As a rule of thumb, the batteries should be able to hold 12.1 volts before start up. If the alternator can't supply over 13v once it engauges (mind you there is a 30sec delay from the time that the glow plugs shut down), you need to address that issue.
 
#28 ·
agree with you on the principle, but I have worked on multiple 6.0's including mine with fresh batts, alt and they read these voltages and have no problems(I know my 1 6.0 has been doing this for 168,000 miles and does not miss a beat) Just going off of what my eyes see on the trucks i have worked on:)
 
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#30 ·
well as we all know every single one of these trucks are unique. not one truck does EXACTLY the same thing as the other. Don't kill me if I'm wrong, but I believe Benjamin is trying to give advice as more of a rule of thumb in this situation of batteries/alt/charging system. Your trucks may work fine as you mentioned, but some new owner may not be that lucky. IMO, if your readings are showing lower numbers than the ones Benjamin posted above, AT LEAST get everything checked out for piece of mind. It sucks to get stranded somewhere & pay a tow bill on top of the batteries/alternator/etc.....i know from experience. haha
That is my point, I'm always strive to learn what the symptoms are before the truck leaves me strained. These trucks will run with less juice in the batteries, however there is a cost to that.
 
#29 ·
well as we all know every single one of these trucks are unique. not one truck does EXACTLY the same thing as the other. Don't kill me if I'm wrong, but I believe Benjamin is trying to give advice as more of a rule of thumb in this situation of batteries/alt/charging system. Your trucks may work fine as you mentioned, but some new owner may not be that lucky. IMO, if your readings are showing lower numbers than the ones Benjamin posted above, AT LEAST get everything checked out for piece of mind. It sucks to get stranded somewhere & pay a tow bill on top of the batteries/alternator/etc.....i know from experience. haha
 
#32 ·
Here's one I've been through twice now and it's blank in your list. Engine load%. I'll normally run around 30% on flat road unloaded at 40MPH, 35% at 60MPH. When that number climbs it could be an indication of a sticking brake caliper. I'm about to change my second one and when it's sticking the load% will be 10-20% higher than normal. If I play with the brakes a little, taping them and pumping them, I can tell when it's released by the number being in it's normal range. Accelerator position will also change, normally I'm between 15% and 20% cruising on flat ground and when the caliper is sticking I'm seeing 25%+.

Idk if anyone else is seeing similar numbers but those are my observations... :dunno:
 
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#33 ·
Good observation, I had a similar experiance, though I didn't see that much of a change in numbers. I think that the individual trucks gearing and tire size, may affect those numbers as well.

I'll figure out how to best word this, and get it in the front post. Thank you.
 
#35 · (Edited)
GREAT Thread, you have done us simple minded folks a great favor. I finally recieved my CTS yesterday morning. Like most I half way read the directions and started playing with it. I almost poked a hole in the screen looking for the EOT pid. It wasn't there!!!! "Until"...... I took it in the house and updated the software. ( FYI: Edge does NOT support Mac op. systems) Edge instructions leave alot to be desired......my 2 cents. Anyway, plugged it back in and set up all 8 gauges and took it for a road trip. Wow, all this information and I don't know what's good or not ............. UNTIL ........ I read this thread. All was/is good. Have had my 06 Amarillo w/105000 miles right at a month now and have been worried to death about my oil cooler. I have changed every fluid except the power steering / hydro boost oil (Next week). New CTS showed a 2 degree ECT-EOT delta untill I let my wife set the 1/4 mile and 0 to 60 times on the CTS. Then it went to 12 degrees but cooled right back down.

PS ...my engine load was at 27 with the engine off ???????
 
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