not really a procedure I pay much attention to now
it used to be when I needed warranty work
however anyone monitoring their PIDS will have a better idea of the cooler status than fords little roadtest

something lame like , level ground,65 mph ,for a certain time and looking of a split of 20* between coolant

 

There is indeed a test procedure for oil cooler function published by Ford. I know I have seen it, just wish I had saved or bookmarked it. It specifies the well known 15 degree limit on ECT/EOT delta. I would like to see the test conditions I recall seeing in the document.

 

I never said it did not exist
it is a joke and not worth my time to retrieve
have fun

 

Please forgive me.

I just want to see the details behind the 15 degree figure.

 

https://f01.justanswer.com/bobover/ea898f5d-f236-4fb3-a734-e0bc6ae44367_~WTCOOLANT+LOSS.pdf

 

Thank you sir!
That is what I was looking for, plus a lot more!

 

The "Ford" test (in the TSB) is:

Carefully drive the vehicle at wide open throttle (WOT) / high load to achieve maximum boost.

That was a little hard to get specific on for folks, so a different test became common.

 

That was a little hard to get specific on for folks, so a different test became common.

I agree. I thought I had seen what looked like a TSB with a more specific road test.

My daily commute doesn't easily accommodate much WOT operation.

I drive about a mile at 20 MPH, followed by 2-3 miles stop and go at around 40, 2 miles at around 55, 4 miles at 45 and then the tougher part - 3 miles at 35-40 climbing around 1800 feet with boost running about 17 PSI. That last bit currently gets me a delta of about 25 degrees and triggers high engine fan speed near the top of the climb.

 

No mountains close to where I am, so I can't relate well. That said, it sounds like a plugged up oil cooler to me.

 

From reading your past posts and this one IMO your oil cooler needs replaced period. I don't think your going to get satisfaction with temp differences until it is replaced with a new one. The OEM ford cooler can last for years when using the better coolant filter system, proper flush, and running the better coolant or you can go with the air/oil cooler and never worry again about deltas.

All reminds me of a saying my dad use to say "Tight Wads Never Win". Saying this in a respectful way.

 

All reminds me of a saying my dad use to say "Tight Wads Never Win". Saying this in a respectful way.

I didn't take it in a bad way, and I am grateful for your input.

I'm just one of those guys who has to try the simple/less expensive fix first. I have been careful not to overstress things and doing no towing.

I like the BPD air/oil cooler, but it sure is pricy!

I have purchased an IPR coolant filter, which I'll install after I return home from vacation next weekend. I know that by itself it isn't going to solve the problem, but it will be in place when I replace the oil cooler.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

 

I didn't take it in a bad way, and I am grateful for your input.

I'm just one of those guys who has to try the simple/less expensive fix first. I have been careful not to overstress things and doing no towing.

I like the BPD air/oil cooler, but it sure is pricy!

I have purchased an IPR coolant filter, which I'll install after I return home from vacation next weekend. I know that by itself it isn't going to solve the problem, but it will be in place when I replace the oil cooler.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

The simplest *easiest fix may just cause you to spend a lot of money later on.
Back flushing a plugged cooler will push all that crap into the cooling system and, if not completely removed, may clog the new oil cooler that you're inevitably going to put in.
Just do it right the 1st time.

Sent from my Redmi Note 9 Pro using Tapatalk

 

Backflushing should push any debris back through the front cover, through the pump and out the pump suction opening (lower radiator hose disconnected). IMO that process should not cause any big issues with getting the debris into places where it might be retained,

 

Here's a mechanic opinion on a coolant filter helping for a clogged oil cooler.

 

yeaaaaaa, most of what this guy is saying is pure bs

 

I always recommend pulling the water pump when backflushing the oil cooler. This is because the path goes into the water pump cavity, and the port for the lower radiator hose is in the middle of the cover, past the water pump. But you hit the resistance of the water pump and coolant flow, and debris then can be distributed if other ports are open, and at least larger particles can settle in the bottom of the water pump cavity.

If you are as proactive as you can be, the better choice IMO is to pull the water pump at the expense of an O-ring. Not pulling it IMO is the biggest reason for the backflush of particles is not effective.

You can get really hyper and close off the open ports to the engine block too.

 

@JustinOOO9 @TooManyToys

Thank you. I love this forum! Every time I ask questions, other members answer, and I learn things.

One thing for sure - I am going to install the IPR coolant filter before doing any more flushing.

 

I just happen upon that YouTube video and decided to post it here kind of lol. I really don't agree with his negativity towards the filters but he's a mechanic for a living. I still run a coolant filter and plan to keep it . It's insurance in my mind since I already have it .
Seems like there is always someone disagreeing on things. Everybody has their own opinion I guess.

 

Most coolant filters are bypass filters, they have a purpose, but they are not capable of fully cleaning out a badly contaminated system. Anthony (in the video) is correct that the coolant filter will not prevent a clogged oil cooler in that (badly contaminated) situation. He does tend to rant beyond practicality though.

A clean system and the correct system should be fine. I have had my coolant filter blocked in for a LONG time now because I don't have issues. That said, I can attach some pics of the junk I got out when I first installed it.

Anyway, I agree - pulling the water pump is the best thing to do. My perspective (worth all of 2 cents) When you get ready for a back flush of the oil cooler, at a minimum the lower radiator hose should be pulled (I also remove the block drains). That will drain most of the system and then the reverse flow through the water pump should not be a huge resistance - since it is essentially empty (they should more easily allow backflow). Now, if you have big particles, then I can see the problem. I have not seen systems bad enough for that to be an issue, but I suppose there are those out there.

Anyway, if you fail to flush your ENTIRE system to the ground after a reverse flush of the oil cooler, I can see that you might leave some stuff in there.

 

The document is a myth

 

And yet, in post #7, Ford's second procedure, TSB 09-8-3, modified to a lower than 25ºF maximum.

It does exist on this site.

COOLANT LOSS—6.0L TSB 09-8-3 - Powerstroke.orghttps://www.powerstroke.org › attachments › 09-8-3...



5. Road Test For Restricted Oil Cooler - Setup and Observations:

a. Install integrated diagnostic system (IDS), select engine coolant temperature (ECT) and engine oil temperature (EOT) PID's on IDS Datalogger.

b. Carefully drive the vehicle at wide open throttle (WOT) / high load to achieve maximum boost.

NOTE: FOR ACCURATE TEST RESULTS, ECT TEMPERATURE MUST BE GREATER THAN 190°F (88°C) WHEN MEASURING THE ECT AND EOT MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE DIFFERENTIAL.

NOTE: PERFORMING THIS TEST STEP OUT OF SEQUENCE CAN RESULT IN INACCURATE TEST RESULTS. THIS CAN BE CAUSED BY A LEAKING EGR COOLER ALLOWING (HOT) COMBUSTION GASES TO ENTER THE ENGINE COOLANT AND ARTIFICIALLY RAISING ECT READINGS.

c. Observe ECT and EOT PID's on IDS Datalogger. EOT maximum temperature differential might occur at throttle tip-out.

1. If EOT is within 15 °F (8.4 °C) degrees of the ECT, go to Step 7.

2. If EOT exceeds ECT by 15 °F (8.4 °C) or more at any time during the test, go to Step 6.

 

I would, if I knew how to do it, send you to a post I did on my coolant filter install and outcome with similar pictures as in post #24.

The title is called "Coolant filter is worth the investment"

Hope it helps.