With 1 injector out and it being cold, it may not idle properly, but usually would not stall. In any case, you have correctly identified the problem. Whether it is electrical or the injector itself is another matter. What happened on the buzz test; that may help in your decision going forward.

Pull it and have a good look it, including the nozzle. You could try moving it, but if the electrical signals are good, you are wasting time. Best option is to just replace it with a new style injector, and then, perhaps play with it (take it apart) following the process in my sig.

 

Buzz test successful... No faults.

Thats what I was figuring as well that the 1 injector shouldnt be making it stall thats why im not to sure what the cause could be.

 

Getting the code P0272 injector 4 contribution/balance failure. There is a new injector wire harness put on, new fuel pump because of blowing bubbles in the upper fuel filter. The truck starts but wont idle for more then a few minutes.

I have AE and i put the idle set higher to 750 and it will stay idling and u can feel a miss in the motor every once in a while and only last for about a min or 2, so when it had the miss i turned off injector 4 no change in motor behavior and so i enable it wait a few min and it would clear up then start missing again on its own i would try to turn off 1,2,3,5,6,7,8 while it was running rough and the motor would get even more rough. the only one that i would turn off and not make a difference would be 4. Could this possibly be a bad injector?

All parameters of motor all good, ICP, FICM, IPR, Oil pressure. Volts.

Getting bubbles while cranking?

 

only bubbles KOEO, No bubbles now with either test with new fuel pump put it.

 

Replace the injector.

 

Just brought it for a drive. During the test drive it only made 10 PSI of boost. No power when WOT. All parameters good, when i disabled injector 4 no difference in the motor while driving. I delete codes on the road and injector 4 contribution never came back on but still stalling at idle.

 

So are you agreeing that #4 injector could be the issue or are you saying that now you do not think so?

 

Im second guessing it. Could it be a bad FICM although i have 49 volts? When i set the idle to 1000 rpm the truck is running fine but again no power, 10 PSI boost and at idle it is dieing. I also have a code for camshaft position output circuit/open but my Cam shaft and crank is SYNC and FICM is SYNC.

 

So ............. when you totally disconnect #4 injector and that has NO EFFECT on the engine performance, what do you think that is telling you?

 

Would 1 bad injector cause the motor to stall?

 

It might or it might not. Since you really didn't answer my question, I will answer it. Your test of disconnecting #4 injector shows that it is not contributing anything now. That is a problem and it needs to be corrected - even if it isn't the only thing that is wrong.

You could test the wiring to that injector with a meter (not a bad idea), but you "sort of" did that test with the buzz test. You don't have a way to test the FICM unless you have a known good one to install and try. And typically one bad injector is not the FICM. Best of luck!

 

I disable it with AE and at the higher rpm while driving no difference but idle at about 1000rpm i can feel the difference. but the problem is intermittent but when the rough idle is happening i turn off injector 4 and no difference.

 

Swap that injector to a different hole -- if the problem follows, then you have the answer

#4 is currently not working, so that is a problem -- need to figure if it is the injector or the ficm or wiring
the buzz test if you hear all the injectors, should rule out the ficm - and electrical part of the injector

 

Swap that injector to a different hole -- if the problem follows, then you have the answer

#4 is currently not working, so that is a problem -- need to figure if it is the injector or the ficm or wiring
the buzz test if you hear all the injectors, should rule out the ficm - and electrical part of the injector

Alright, thats kind of what i was thinking todo but wanted to check out a second opinion before i pull everything out again and sink more money and time into it if it could be something else and it was just triggering an injector code. Buzz test successful. New wire harness. Problem is only intermittent and will not idle for more then a few seconds. I figured a bad injector would only cause rough idle but would stay running. RPM surges about 30RPM staying around 680 to 720 for the time it stays running. When idle it up to 1000 it will also surge around 30 rpm. When could the truck will idle for a few min then thats it. HPO is over 600 at all times.

 

May also be a leaking copper washer, letting compression into the fuel rail
that will usually affect the whole bank, but starts at one injector and spreads to the others

 

LOL - it took a third opinion. @twoicebergs sounded pretty convinced also!

Having needed a new fuel pump and seen bubbles in the fuel previously tells me that probably more than one injector will need replacing in the near future. The only way I would mess around with trying not to change that one particular injector is if they all had less than 40-50k miles on them.

 

so i changed injectors still getting same issues runs for 5 min when cold as soon as about 5 min goes by truck dies. Oil pressure good. Im at a lost boys. Not to sure where to go from here

600PSI
FICM SYNC
CK and CAM SYNC

 

Ya they have probably almost 100k on them from the previous owner. I think best bet is to change them like you said.

 

Also WOT only 10 PSI of boost

 

What does the IPR percentage and ICP sensor voltage (not pressure) do when the engine starts to die ?

 

IPR 23.83%
0.92v

I have brand new IPR screens and orings and a brand new ICP sensor. Those values are at 500 rpm right before RPM hits 0.

If i put about 15% fuel pedal application truck will stay running all day long, as soon as i let off truck dies in seconds.

 

OK, good -- you dont have an oil pressure problem there , or the IPR value would go up at the end

You aren't getting codes for the pedal sensor ?

Does the engine just slow down to a stop? -- or just quit firing altogether ? like the key was turned off

Have you watched the load pid to see if it spikes ? -- not real sure how load is calculated

 

No codes for pedal sensor. The engine shuts off as if i turned the key off. Its as if once the truck is at operating temp and its not giving it enough fuel to stay running but when its cold starts and runs fine for about 5 min. No nasty smoke only a white puff when it is initially started. I just put a brand new fuel pump in and sinister blue spring kit.

 

Is the fuel tank still at 25% (this is where it was in your first post)?

 

No i put fresh fuel in 3/4 of a tank now. I was running it at 1000RPM and it was running fine as soon as i click it off high idle with AE it died. So f***ing weird.

 

Since the engine just cuts off -- we are prolly looking at an electrical problem
if it were fuel, there would be some sputtering just before it died

 

Whats weird is that when engine is cold it will run fine just hard to start. Which wiring do u figure it would be? I have a brand new injector wire harness.

 

Which wiring do u figure it would be?

That's the $64 question, isn't it

 

Without a code popping -- the system "thinks" it is operating normally
so have to look at things that do not produce a code
but yet, just cuts the engine off

no sputtering at all ?
RPM act goofy before it dies ?

 

Not at all. I had stuck my hand down to the cam sensor and it felt a bit of oil and gunk on the plug in but it is in sync with crank shaft sensor. And ficm is synced as well.

 

What is the alternator and battery voltage at the low idle after 5 minutes? The part that is puzzling is the 5 minutes and it keeps running at a higher idle.If the voltage were to drop to 9v, it would quit running. If the HPO sensor dropped below .8v, it would quit. If the fuel pressure was very low, it would quit. If you lost Sync (Cam or crank) it would quit.

The key to the issue is to know what parameter is lost when it dies. Until that is known, we are just chasing ghosts.

 

What is the alternator and battery voltage at the low idle after 5 minutes? The part that is puzzling is the 5 minutes and it keeps running at a higher idle.If the voltage were to drop to 9v, it would quit running. If the HPO sensor dropped below .8v, it would quit. If the fuel pressure was very low, it would quit. If you lost Sync (Cam or crank) it would quit.

The key to the issue is to know what parameter is lost when it dies. Until that is known, we are just chasing ghosts.

 

Looks like the first signs of problems are the rpm dropping and then going to zero, and FICM Sync is lost at zero rpm. Cam/Crank Sync is lost immediately after that in the next set of readings.