i will post as i read them

you have the EGR valve deleted and the removed valve is still plugged in to keep the cooling fan working properly

 

i have not seen this one before

The B1676 code is set when the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) module detects system voltage is less than 9 volts or grater than 19 volts for more than 8 seconds. In other words if the battery voltage is too low or the alternator is not charging properly the B1676 code will set

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/b1676_ford.html

 

dude someone hacked that truck back together

those are hose clamps on your CAC boots

don't drive it until you go thru the whole deal and tell the PO he is a scumbag

 

Thank you for the quick reply!!
I am hoping it is just a blown fuse as far as the B1676 code, and I don't need a new alternator.
I have been looking into EGR delete kits prior to this discovery. Should I still install one of these products or do you think it is fine as is? is the p0401 code any cause for concern?

 

so. many. hose clamps.

 

you have the first two codes as EGR codes the other two are ABS

i would have someone go over that whole truck

and get those hose clamps off and probably get all new boots =4 and all new CAC boot clamps

another thing is that alternator post looks close to the metal CAC tube make sure it can't touch

 

The truck is already mine, now I have to do what I can to make it reliable. From the picture of the engine, does anything look like it could be a major concern?

 

Get the riff Raff boots and clamps and I'm not sure what's up with the intake clamps.

 

the one place he could have used one clamp he used 3 the others i would have put 3 on and that would have been to crawl the truck home

 

Thanks for the reply guys, much appreciated!
I'll make sure to get those clamps off there and re-boot. So from the look of it can I just leave the EGR alone for now or should that be a priority on the list?
I just ordered a coolant filter, so I can cross that off the list.

 

I would go over everything, fix the issues, and check/change fluids before I started throwing money at boots and clamps that seem to be holding for the time being. Just my cheap novice opinion.

 

, fix the issues, and check/change fluids before I started throwing money at boots and clamps that seem to be holding for the time being. Just my cheap novice opinion.

you going to give him a ride home when the turbo boot slips the last 1/2 inch ?

 

The EGR valve laying there is really at the bottom of the list.

The CAC system craziness is one issue. You have what looks to be a fairly dirty K&N air filter that should be addressed (i.e., replaced. entirely.) The wiring is giving me the heebie-jeebies, btw. What hose clamps were to CAC pipes, duct tape was to harnesses, it seems.

Before digging in, I'd recommend that you have a shop look at it and do the initial maintenance. Also, you're pulling codes. It'd be wonderful if you could use that same device to monitor some pressures and temps and post the results. What are you using to get codes?

If you can't monitor with the device your using, that's your next important purchase, in my view.

 

fair enough

but it does run and it only has a few codes that are not critical

if he does drive it on the road with those worm drive clamps and compromised boots

he should be prepared for a pant shating boom and a loss of power and a tow home

 

fair enough



but it does run and it only has a few codes that are not critical



if he does drive it on the road with those worm drive clamps and compromised boots



he should be prepared for a pant shating boom and a loss of power and a tow home

As long as it doesn't start puking coolant!

I've heard the boom you speak of test driving the day I installed 90hp injectors and a big turbo. I nearly threw up.

So I agree, boots and clamps are on the priority list.

 

Wat is this?


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Don't know. What does the writing say on the front of it?

 

Automated hose clamp tightening control unit?

Regarding the original P0401 that got you looking at the EGR valve... that code is triggered based on the PCM not seeing the expected temperature change in the intake (IAT) based on actuation of the EGR. Since your EGR is deleted, so there's no way for the temp to change.

Thing is... IIRC, a 2004 shouldn't throw the code based on a delete alone. Mine doesn't. So, you may have something going on with your IAT sensor or your MAF sensor may not be connected or connected right to the K&N. ...or you have a later flash in the PCM (?).

It's not anything to worry about so much now. It'll just be on the list of things to attend to. I'm just answering because you asked

 

Later flash will trip the cel. My 04 does.


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the dealer can't retro flash they can only install the latest version


but also keep in mind CEL just popped up so the EGR codes may may not have been the cause it may be the other two ABS codes that set the light ?

 

Got it to no retro. I was thinking that they could flash either latest or original, but it follows that Ford wouldn't allow that. Seems a shame that Ford won't return a vehicle to as-sold condition. ...seeing as Ford sold it that way.

 

thats what I have been told for years
Ford dealers don't have access to previous versions and it's because of emission and vehicle self preservation changes

if the original flash was the fastest and best but was breaking components or had an emissions related issue
they wouldn't want us to say "hey my truck ran better before return it to my old flash it "

once it is done it is done and they no longer have that old flash on a device ,, I am sure there are folks out there that can work around it but not a regular dealer


the EGR code setting a CEL is an emission thing as is a glow plug so the later flashes set a CEL for even 1 bad glow plug so the later flashes all set the CEL
it may have been a Cali truck also they set a CEL if you fart in the cab

 

First off let me just say THANK YOU to everyone that responded, really appreciate the help!!

There were a lot of questions brought up but to answer some, yes that is what the box hanging there is, it was for the western plow attachment.

So from what I gathered, here is my priority list: (please advise or correct)
1. turbo seal, new boots
2. change/ refill fluids
3. fix abs
4. diagnose egr
5. upgrade oil cooler
6. install sct

Please feel free to put in your 2 cents, about anything you agree or disagree with!

 

First off let me just say THANK YOU to everyone that responded, really appreciate the help!!

There were a lot of questions brought up but to answer some, yes that is what the box hanging there is, it was for the western plow attachment.

So from what I gathered, here is my priority list: (please advise or correct)
1. turbo seal, new boots
2. change/ refill fluids
3. fix abs
4. diagnose egr
5. upgrade oil cooler
6. install sct

Please feel free to put in your 2 cents, about anything you agree or disagree with!

3. Do you have an ABS light on? If not clear the code and see if it stays gone. The code I read was for low voltage.
4. You have an EGR delete. No need to diagnose.
5. Do you even know what your deltas are. No need to do anything to you oil cooler until you know. It might be fine.
6. SCT would really be just to turn off the EGR code/check engine light it is setting. Also is nice to have tunes available.

These trucks can be expensive when they need repairs. Don't go fixing things that aren't broke.

 

^^^ This is why I suggested taking it to a shop for a check and initial maintenance. I wasn't trying to be insulting to the OP and his skills. It's just that a shop will be able to do the pre-buy instruction that wasn't done pre-buy.

Delta reading... coolant pressure check... contribution/balance... A good shop can do lots of quick checks to give a great read on the vehicle.

You don't have to rely on them for the work. It's just to get your bearings.

...and my recommendation of the CAI didn't make the list. You'd be shocked at how much air these engines are getting under heavy acceleration. ...or not getting, as the case may be.

 

I agree with the K&N removal ASAP
at first I thought it was another brand but I see the sticker now that would be on top of the list for replacement

1. turbo seal, new boots

turbo seal ? does this mean all new CAC boots and clamps ?

 

I used to be more cavalier about the K&N. @ZMANN learned me good.

 

K&N is the debil.

 

What do you all recommended for CAI?

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