I am dealing with the same issue but since I am down here in Texas it only gets cold twice a year lol. I remember seeing threads/videos on YouTube that said you could pull the injectors out and hit the spool valves with some 600 grit sand paper (I believe) and it helps do away with the stiction. The other thing that would help I have been told is the Archoil Ar9100 that I am going to be adding on my next oil change as well.

 

DO NOT for the love of all that is holy sand the injectors on these trucks lol....

you have three options and some work better than others....

full synthetic oil seems to help a ton but may only be temporary

archoil ar9100 is prooven to help but its an extra $44 per oil change. Again it helps a lot but some have to keep using it others use it once

if the above two do not fix the stiction replacing them and using a full synthetic oil is the best plan of action.


Diesel fuel treatments do work well to keep the vgt style turbo clean in these trucks. No personal expereince with the brand you mentioend but Howes and Diesel kleen is available near everywhere and works very well. I know I use diesel kleen regularly and since as long as I can remember.

 

Fixing stiction

How to Fix Stiction - FOR GOOD! I came across this video today by Lubeowner. As in the video, make sure you are doing this wet. Using 600 grit paper or higher takes the varnish off. It is easy to take the spool-valve off and remove the spool. He doesn't show it in this video, but the...

www.powerstroke.org

For reference this is the thread I was referring to. I am not sure if sanding/polishing the spool valves is still a good idea or not I just wanted to provide info where I could.

Even if you don’t sand or anything like that this thread is probably a good read for your issue OP.

 

I am trying to avoid having to take the injectors out. That is a job I just don't have the tools, space, or time for right now. Hoping to bandaid the issue for now, and then deal with a full injector replacement in a few years when I have some more money and can also do the studs.

 

It may be another issue other than stiction. Have you checked your fuel pressure? Do you have any trouble codes for injectors or cylinder contribution?

 

It isn't throwing any codes right now. I also thought about the fuel pressure, so I ordered the blue spring kit in hopes that will help. I don't have a gauge to test myself and figured just buying the kit and doing it is cheaper than paying a shop to test and then do it. I am not sure if it is has been done or not, so that would be an easy fix if it is the issue!

 

I would lean towards replacing.

These are 15 year old injectors, and I doubt the only thing to do to them is "polish the spools." I thought about rebuilding my injectors based off some posts and kits, but I'd be in over my head for that one.

Even if you remove them to polish them yourself and the job cost you nothing but your labor, these trucks can only be taken apart so many times before things start breaking. A lot of the plastic on my 16 year old truck inside the engine bay is pretty brittle, like wire bundles. Because of possible other things being wrong or close to failing on the injectors, and breaking of other parts in the truck, if those injectors are coming out of the truck, IMO they need to be replaced with OEM remans.

 

What is a reasonable price to pay a shop for that? Or is it something I can do myself? I have a general sense of how things work and where they are on the 6.0 and I change the oil on my truck but am far far far from being a mechanic.

 

Here is the best place (IMO) to get an OEM remanufactured injector:

2004-2010 Ford Fuel Injector 4C3Z-9E527-ARM | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

2004-2010 Ford part # 4C3Z-9E527-ARM - Fuel Injector

parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com

You can do it yourself without much 6.0L specific experience. You do need the correct tools (some small wrenches for valve cover bolts and oil rail bolts), and a good torque wrench in the 26 ft-lb range. There are some specific tips on the job that can be seen on the various youtube videos on changing out the injectors.

 

That says it is $189 but with a refundable $180 core charge. So if I send them my old injectors after it will only cost $9? That can't be right...

 

edit - whs ^

Maybe the wording is poor - the $180 will be charged on top of the injector cost, but quickly refunded when they get the old injector(s).

 

given their age, thats my plan (probably next year though), and as said earlier all the parts and pieces needed to remove are showing their age so you dont want to dig in multiple times. along that line of thinking, i'd probably replace nipple cup seals based on age.

 

good vid on nipple cups

 

I don't buy it that oil dribbling onto the top injector o-ring will degrade it. But that is a minor part of the video.

 

The Archoil and synthetic oil made a BIG difference for me. I used Archoil AR9100 on a oil change then again after I had changed oil a couple times.
Instead of paying someone to do a fuel pressure check I would use that money to buy a fuel pressure gauge Real easy to install and then you can monitor your fuel pressure. A bonus would be down the road if you get new injectors you would be able to keep a eye on fuel pressure so if you had a low pressure issue you won't ruin your new injectors.

 

Any recommendations on a kit? I see a bunch on Amazon but I dunno which are Chinese crap and which are decent.

 

Just rebuilt and repacked my injectors, it's super simple and all you need is a few tools once it's out.

Step one:
Got to bitterroot.com and order a complete repack kit. Get the tools it really helps for a couple of bucks more.

Step two:
once out place tool in vice on the side of the vice to aid in assembly and disassembly.

Step three:
Remove the 4mm nut and bolt, and harness see the video for orientation. Then remove the O-ring at the top of the injector with a scribed gently push down evenly on the beveled washer so it out of the way for thus next part. Take a jewlers flat head and a small soft mallet, place the screwdriver flat on the top of the snap ring about a 1/4 in away from the end and tap with hammer until the snap ring is out of the Chanel, pry up and out.

Step three:
Remove the two screws half way then wiggle to release the tension, then back out evenly with thumb pressing down to keep the spring tension contained until the screws are out.

Step four:
Remove the cup, spring plunger and spring clip then flip over and place in the tool that has been placed into vice. Take a razer blade and on two side lift the copper washer up to allow a pair of nedle nose pliers to pull it off. Using the socket that you got from Bitterroot and a breaker bar break the torque and make two full rotations. Rest the palm of your hand in the tip of the injector and spint the body off of the injector. Resting you palm will aid in preventing the internal parts from shifting in both disassembly and assembly.

You should have a large pile of parts and be kinda freaking out but it's OK cause you watched the video and you can see how it goes together.

Step six:
You really should watch the video below is a depiction of parts that need to be polished with a 5k grit sanding pad from orilies. Use brake cleaner to get the parts clean and to test the nozzles for the correct pattern. if uneven pattern use a brass brush to clean the tips off and test for even pattern with the brake cleaner.

Step seven:
Discard the orings, springs, c-clip and ball bearing. The kit comes with new ones

Step eight:

Use a good lube when re-installing the parts, I use lucas with zinc on all the parts and had zero issues with the injectors after. And u used alot, I mean it was dripping every where. 😆

Now watch this video and put it back together.

Then rinse and repeat doing it one at a time. Oh and replace the zip ties, youl thank me later.

total cost less than $400 including new stand pipes and valve cover gaskets and i did it "CAB ON".

Edited: cropped photos for better veiw.

 

Nice write up. I would recommend replacing the solenoids at the same time. $60 each but that's what failed on two of my injectors. That would increase your total to nearly the price of a set of cheap rebuilds, but most rebuilds don't replace the solenoid. FYI don't buy the bag of used solenoids from dieselcare. They are junk even if only $30.

 

The big issue, as always, is buying junk. That is why Ford Remans (from a dealership, not some shady internet company claiming they are Ford Remans) are the safest bet.

 

The big issue, as always, is buying junk. That is why Ford Remans (from a dealership, not some shady internet company claiming they are Ford Remans) are the safest bet.

Isn't Alliant the rebuilder for Ford (oem)? Just checking, because I'm in the market for new squirters.

Sent from my Redmi Note 9 Pro using Tapatalk

 

I tested before I rebuilt and then checked for burnt connections, all in all they work great now.
As for the cheap junk, that's why I went with bitterroot rebuild kit for top quality parts and no issues.

 

and they are a vendor here I believe!

 

They did such a great job with the parts kit and keeped me under a rebuilt set price including tools for $235

 

Absolutely not. That is one of those long standing internet myths. IMO Alliant quality is no where near OEM quality, although they claim it is. Even DTR stated he had trouble with Alliant injectors in his "Hot No-Start" video.

Siemens and International formed a Joint Venture company named Pure Power. Siemens gets the credit for the OEM supplier (51% ownership originally), but really it was a joint venture operation.

Our OEM Heritage - PurePOWER Technologies®

PurePower Technologies has a long OEM heritage, starting with our inception in 1999, as a joint venture between Siemens and Navistar.

www.purepowertechnologies.com

DTR video:

 

Google brought me here for the nipple cups.

Not completely disappointed, but I'll see myself out.