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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
How to Fix Stiction - FOR GOOD!

I came across this video today by Lubeowner. As in the video, make sure you are doing this wet. Using 600 grit paper or higher takes the varnish off.

It is easy to take the spool-valve off and remove the spool. He doesn't show it in this video, but the spool-valve assembly comes off the top by removing 2 Torx cap screws. Don't do this in the vehicle; if you drop a part you will be sorry. Watch for the alignment of the wires versus the notch in the injector body; they should be opposite of the injector won't fit properly in the head.

 

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Once again Two nice video!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For those following or interested, Dale did some today and was mightily impressed! The cold start test is tomorrow morning. His results are posted in the Perf section.
 

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For those following or interested, Dale did some today and was mightily impressed! The cold start test is tomorrow morning. His results are posted in the Perf section.
once again thanks for your very good posts. Also your very in detail replies to others asking questions. love reading your stuff!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, Jugernaut did. He started his own post in the Perf section with a video. It worked very well.
 

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Yes, Jugernaut did. He started his own post in the Perf section with a video. It worked very well.
Thanks two and yes if have done one more yesterday and that worked perfect too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I bet you never thought you would be getting into the injector fixing business!:woohoo:
 

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I bet you never thought you would be getting into the injector fixing business!:woohoo:
Lol it's your fault twoicebergs but its already made me money so it's ok!!!:rofl:
 

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This is friggen sweet...I just put my new BPD FICM in today and the truck has improved so much but when it's cold, I still feel like there's one injector with stiction....


...I am handy with pulling wrenches, but just learning about how diesels work so some things I'm a bit afraid to dig into because I'm not sure what's involved.

Any thing I should know about getting to the injectors and pulling them out?


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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
It is fairly straight forward.

Remove valve cover.
Remove oil rail (year specific) T-30 for the oil rail and a 10mm or 12mm hex for standpipe.
Loosen injector. You will need a long Torx bit

Previous post by Bismic

T40 socket for early 2006 model years or T45 for commonized engines - post Jan 11, 2006. When removing the injector make sure the copper washer is still on the end of the washer.

Make sure you clean out the injector hold down clamp holes with some q-tips or similar (remove oil), otherwise you won't get them torqued correctly and will probably end up doing it again.

Regarding the copper washers - the side with 2 raised circles goes against the injector and the side with 1 raised circle goes against the injector cup.

For those that don't have a 2006, the recommended Torque value is 24 ft-lbs. The 26 ft-lbs is for the later model years (although many Techs will go up to 28 ft-lbs).

I would recommend finding a place where you can check your Torque Wrench calibration. Many of them are WAY off.

Get the extended Torx (minimum shaft length is 2") - that way you can be sure that they are properly torqued down.

New o-rings and combustion seals should be used any time an injector is removed. Care should be taken when installing the high pressure oil rail to prevent damage to the upper injector o-rings.

As was said earlier - Be SURE to clean the injector cups w/ a bottle brush (personally I recommend one made for the job). These are made by Motorcraft, tool numbers 303-D111 and 303-D112. You can find them on hands on tools.com.

Oh - There have been some issues of the clip holding the holddown bolt in the clamp coming off during injector removal. As was said earlier - To be safe, you can put rags in the drain holes in the lower edge of the head while pulling the injectors out

After torquing the injectors, push the injector connectors into the rocker box opening and "seat them in". They can be seated using a small screwdriver and applying force using the rocker arm for leverage - but BE CAREFUL. Make sure there is oil in the top of each injector (take a half quart and dump all over the top of the injectors) then carefully place the rail back down over the injectors, with the joints into the tops. Seat high pressure oil rail by hand before tightening bolts. The oil rail holddown bolts are torqued to 10 ft-lbs (back ones that can not be torqued - do by feel).
Here is the video by Srmastertech:

6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Injector Replacement, part 2 - YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
:bump:

Rather than use Rev-x, HSS or Archoil 9100, why not do it this way. Cheaper to do and isn't difficult to do.
 

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I bet you never thought you would be getting into the injector fixing business!:woohoo:
JEEZ Twoicebergs i just saw this! i never thought i would ever do them but yes im not worried about them anymore. now for modding. also i really should have post here instead of in the other thread i was just very happy it worked. next time i will keep thread all together.
 

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:bump:

Rather than use Rev-x, HSS or Archoil 9100, why not do it this way. Cheaper to do and isn't difficult to do.
I cannot wait to try this. My truck has horrible stiction. To the point where I cycle my key 2-3 times on a cold start. (You can hear how stuck the spool valves are on the buzz tests). This beats 2k in new injectors.


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