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6.0 Powerstroke Rebuild Woes (FICM Sync/Yes) (Sync/No)

2.6K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  butler9b9  
#1 ·
Howdy All! Longtime reader and first post since I could not find anyone else with this issue.

I've dropped in a 2005 6.0 motor that I put back together myself after having a machine shop go through it. The truck is a 2004 and after a couple of days of chasing the wiring gremlins I was able to get it to fire up. Now for the interesting part. It sounds like a high compression gas motor with a big cam, i.e. it has a big lope to it. I've only run it for about 10min in total while watching it on Forescan and do not want to attempt a test drive. For the last 3 starts it starts on the second turn of the key (I feel that this is a separate issue or it just hasn't bled out all the air yet). Throttle response while parked is good and fairly immediately smooths out as the throttle is applied. No sign that it will stall out. The standout is Sync NO along with a bouncing RPM (don't forget it has a lope). All the rest are showing good numbers with FICM Sync/Yes. I'm picking up a new CKS this afternoon but do not have high hopes. My gut feel at this point is that I may have set the crank in a tooth off from the cam because yes I am a cheap *** and did not want to pay for the special tool and was too impatient at the time to build one. I did however use a laser level, but given the consistent lope and the way it responds to throttle I'm second guessing myself. I've checked that the crank timing plate is secure but haven't rotated the engine yet while looking to see if its bent.

Questions:
Is an oscilloscope the only way to see crank/cam timing while everything is put together?
Would a short somewhere in the cks/cms/ebp shielding or wiring create a pulse that would cause the engine to have a consistent lope?
What else to check?

Any advice would be appreciated at this point, but I've almost convinced myself that I'll need to start over.
 
#2 ·
Update: Crank Sensor……welllll…kinda fixed it!
Put it in and started it up, still loping, got phone to record engine lope, lope lessened, and then went away completely. Now though, both Syncs at idle are yes, but above 1100+\-rpm Sync/No and it starts to surge. I think I can rule out that I didn’t align the crank correctly though!?!? First photo is at idle second is while trying to hold around 1500.
Image

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#5 ·
Bismic, thanks for the prompt reply. I just swapped in a previously used by me cam sensor, but no change. The bloom looked clean, but I hit it with some sand paper anyways. I’m going to clean and possibly swap out the cmp connector in the am.

I did test drive it this evening. Same thing as when parked. Starts to flutter at 1100-1200 and sync drops out.

The wife just got home and her vehicles front struts came in today so I’m switching projects for the evening.
 
#6 ·
Update 2/16: or somewhat lack there of. I've pulled the engine harness to rework a few worn spots, breaks, and broken connectors. Seriously! I'm not entirely sure how this thing was running before I parked it and pulled the motor. Before pulling the harness I unplugged the ICP - No change, RPM flutter/surge still started at 1100-1200rpm. Also unplugged the EBP and the flutter/surge lessened, but still present. Removed EBP and ran a wire through the tube (I had also cleaned this before putting the manifold on). EBP itself has a little carbon buildup but not too bad. I'm going to replace it anyways. The connector had been replaced at some point but looks ok back to the splice points at the main harness bundle. Precursory examination of the harness after removal, I found several spots where the cam/crank wire shielding was exposed and contacting the block, damaged/cracked, and in one spot contacting another cracked exposed wire.

Should the foil shielding be completely intact and covered? Could the entire cam/crank runs be replaced with some 2 wire jacked security/control cable with ground wire? I have a donor harness that I've already robbed a few connectors from that I'm going to completely open up with the intent of using its shielded wire as replacement, but I'd rather put something new in.
 
#7 ·
Additionally, It is not throwing any codes for Forscan or SCT to see. It was initially throwing only P2617 prior to getting it started. I had replaced the crank sensor pigtail due to bare wires before hooking up the harness. I sure sure it has been said, but DO NOT use the soldering connectors that you shrink on with a heat gun! I wasted several hours on that code only to find that both of the wires had pulled out of the worthless connectors.
 
#8 ·
I've been daily driving for almost a week now and have it Kina-Sorta solved! I found that the crank sensor is not seating to the correct depth. I a moment of frustrated insanity I was stabbing at the crank sensor with a long screw driver. Can't remember why now, but I had just started the truck and it was doing its irregular idle bit, and I noticed that the idle would clear up for a split second after each stab. From that point I tested, carefully, applying pressure on the crank sensor would make the the idle purrrr. No pressure, wanka wanka. The block had previously been cleaned so I milled a down the mounting surface of the crank sensor itself and presto, perfect idle every start. The "Sorta" now shows up around 2200rmp when Sync starts dropping out, but no where near as severe as before. It's like half a hicup along with the tach gage bouncing. The effect also lessens the warmer the engine gets. I'm guessing expansion? I have an OEM sensor on order as the current one is a generic from a box store, but I plan to shave the current sensor a little more to see what happens. I did borescope the gear and nothing jumped out as being out of order.