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I just got done doing the whole restore/restore plus flush procedure. did not see anything on the restore flush, but after doing the restore plus I notice little off white flakes coming out of the bottom hose, almost looked like fish food. Anywas I kept flushing and flushing but did not seem to supside (like 5-6 times). So I ran out of daylight and decided to start flushing with distilled. I flushed 5 times with distilled and filled back up with rotella elc. was that off white flaky junk the silicate gel coming off? wondering if I should do another super flush day soon or rock it?
 

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Well guys, I'm disappointed to report that my efforts were in vain. I started with a delta of 8-10* cruising @ 65-70 mph empty truck and 15-20* with my 4720 lbs. flatbed trailer empty all in 50-70* ambient temps. After three back to back to back flushes with restore three flushes of distilled water and then a flush with restore plus followed by three more distilled water flushes my temps have not changed one darn degree. All told I ran 64 gallons of distilled water through the truck. I did see quite a bit of silicate gel on every flush because I drained the block from the plugs on both sides every time(as a side note i have become very proficient at removing and installing 6.0 starters, ha!) My methods did not use any tap water because I was already getting some black sediment type material out on each flush as well so I wanted to minimize corrosion from tap water that may remain even after being diminished on repeated flushes.

So, unfortuantely, I'm off to buy the parts for an Oil Cooler/Bulletproof EGR Cooler.
The oil cooler is designed like a P trap. NO amount of flushing will get anything out of it that is currently in it as the flow through it is not enough to move any of it through the "maze" and out. Once it get in there, it's in there for ever. And that sediment and gel you saw coming out..... what you didn't see come out ended up in that oil cooler with the rest of what ever was in there!

I'd put a filter on the system before changing the coolers and run it for a few hundred miles and see what else comes out of it first to make sure you don't need further flushing. You need a filter anyhow...... might as well get it out the way and make it work for you. Might just save you another oil cooler !
 

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The oil cooler is designed like a P trap. NO amount of flushing will get anything out of it that is currently in it as the flow through it is not enough to move any of it through the "maze" and out. Once it get in there, it's in there for ever. And that sediment and gel you saw coming out..... what you didn't see come out ended up in that oil cooler with the rest of what ever was in there!

I'd put a filter on the system before changing the coolers and run it for a few hundred miles and see what else comes out of it first to make sure you don't need further flushing. You need a filter anyhow...... might as well get it out the way and make it work for you. Might just save you another oil cooler !
Yeah, I knew full well my chances of solving my problem were slim, but I had to maintain some hope!!!! As per my signature, I've had a coolant filter on the truck for the past 33,xxx miles. I'm currently away at work for two weeks since completing the flushing, so by the time I start the replacement of the coolers I will have somewhere around 1,000 miles on the new filter and I will definitely check it to see what else got knocked loose from driving post flushing. Every part of the cooling system that I looked in after the flushing was as fresh as a new penny, so I doubt very much the truck will need much more flushing prior to R&R of the coolers. I even cut open the old filter after the flushing process (I left the filter valves open to prevent a dead head in the system) and it had some silicate goo and some smaller fine material but not what I expected to find.
 

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looks like new coolers to evryone.... I my self are going tomorrow morning like 6am before my work starts to install
my coolant filter kit finaly. And do the back flush once again because it has evrytime helped in my case to get the oil temps from 220-230 back to 195-200 for awhile last flush i did about 800-1000 miles ago, but now the temps are back up and i should get going to my extended weekend trip with a family so once again i hope i get the temps back down.
I realy don't even know how many times i have done this thing. and evry time i keep saying to my self that this is the last time....


and bonus thing! have to repair the rear right brake caliber again... cause of it drags again..

:icon_ford:
 

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Discussion Starter #405
What I don't understand is why the reverse flushing works but only for a little bit?
 

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yep starting on sunday to replace oil cooler.

did another super flush day on tuesday and all the flaky stuff was in the radiator only. Turns it is was not the silicate gel but like a calcium flake from the minerals in tap water.

Anywas the block is clean but the radiator is where it is coming out.

Decided to replace the radiator all together, eliminate the source. Push in garage and replace the oil cooler. push back outside and then flush the block to make sure everything is out. fire it up and cross fingers.

stupid mineral deposits, ruined my week and now next week. Just hope this pans out
 

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I haven't read this thread for quite some time, and really don't have the time to read the many pages added since my last read-through.
Just thought I would let everyone know that theres a guy on the "ford truck enthusiasts" forum that is also back flushing, if it has not been posted here yet.
He went to the extent of adding fomoto valves screwed into his block drains, and opens them on every back flush.
He has had slightly better results, but by looking at the pics posted, it seems that "juzatheman" has a huge amount of rust deposits in his block. Thats a tough problem to solve, especially if tap water is used and left in the block. Tap water will compound the problem by creating more rust due to the chemical and mineral content. Kinda a "damned if you do, damned if you don't" situation.

Note:
The fomoto valves he used are not the same size as our oil pan drains.
He also removed the flat sealing gasket already installed on the valve and added an o-ring to seal to the block.
He also added clear vinyl tubing to the nipples on the Fomoto valves and routed them together so that he can collect the flush water.
He also uses HOT water (out of the tap) mixed with restore or restore+ and fluctuates the flow using compressed air into a 5 gallon bucket.

Considering he refrences the thread, and it is linked more than once, I now imagine this must be posted already. Oh well, I found his solution and juzatheman's solutions very interesting to read.


http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1059625-55-eot-ect-working-400mi-from-home-need-tech-advice.html
 

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What I don't understand is why the reverse flushing works but only for a little bit?
i belive in my case there is still much more rust inside block and heads
and when engine is runing and the vibrations and coolant flow remove it slowly all the time.

and another reason is when back flush the cooler i think only some of the cooler opens and when it does then the flushing water run thru there where it gets easyest way thru so other part of the cooler remain clogged.

this is my opinion of this matter in my case, i'm not saying that this is with evryone elses problem.
 

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I don't want to fool with all that. I just put an external oil cooler on my rig.
 

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Discussion Starter #410
In hindsight I can't help but wonder if reverse flushing as described above and in the link provided by NYC, would have fixed my quickly plugged second oil cooler? Regardless, it is time for me to convert to ELC. I have bought the following:
(20) Gallons of Distilled Water
(1) Gallon of Restore
(2) Quarts VC-9
(4) Gallons Zerex ELC-HD
(1) New coolant filter.

I am planning on doing the reverse flush on the oil cooler to remove loose solids which may have accumulated in the oil cooler. Followed by a complete tap water flush and Restore. Then I'm planning on a 2 hour trip all highway a complete tap water flush (with oil cooler back flush) then a 2 hour trip with VC-9. Once the VC-9 is completed, I am planning on completely backflushing the oil cooler yet once more, then flush the entire system with 20 gallons of Distilled water, leaving enough to top off after putting in 4 gallons ELC.

I hope that this will be the last time I have to mess with this.
 

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I did the last flush 550 miles ago before my longer weekend trip.
and the oil temp didn't rise over 196'F and i did drive about 250 miles on a row
over 60 mph

before the flush after 15 miles temps was ower 220

so it helped again.

before the flush about week or two i did put two strong half pipe shape magnet
to the lower radiator hose with a duct tape.
At the low spot just before radiator so i could see if any rust could be stopped there. i did test the magnet power before i put the hose back to the radiator and thru hose it could hold medium size screwdriwer on it.

And when i start the flush and take the lower radiator hose off and drain the coolant to a bucket ( i dont use the radiator drain valve cause someone has at some point broke that!)

And damn it works there was about one tea spoon of rust attatch the hose where the magnets where.

Not realy service friendly solution, but still it works.

im happy what ever stops the rust to end up in my cooler.
 

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I've said it before and I'll say it again....Juza, you are the man. The magnets could be a stroke of genius, and a great solution for trapping rust particles like you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #413
I completely agree, very ingenious solutions to this issue!
 

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good idea, I might just do that for preventative maintaince
 

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I just need a find larger u-shape magnet or two to get around the hose, what i use now is little too small diameter to fit perfect to the hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #417
Today I'm beginning the switch from G-05 to ELC. I have everything that I need and am just waiting for the truck to cool down enough to start draining and removing the oil cooler outlet cover. I am planning on leaving the thermostat in to circulate the Restore through the oil cooler as much as possible. First will be to drain the radiator, and drivers block plug. While that's draining, I will hook up the hose to the oil cooler and begin to flush. I am thinking on flushing the cooler for 25 minutes. Then continuing with the Restore treatment followed by another oil cooler flush, then the VC-9 again followed by the cooler reverse flush.
 

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Discussion Starter #419
good luck :thumb:

and remember its bad luck to flush your truck without beer. :rofl:
YOU NEVER MENTIONED THAT!

So I reverse flushed for 30 minutes, closed up the oil cooler stuck the hose in the degas bottle and let is run through for a little bit. Then I started the truck, let it idle for 30 seconds and shut it down. Waiting for the water to completely drain out then I'll replace the block plug and start the restore flush but before I do that I have to make a BEER RUN!
 

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you do that, but remember don't flush your self too much with beer if you have to make test drive with your truck.

i think it is better to leave the test drives to next day and do the flush with feeling. :hehe:
 
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