Following --- professional technician here - 2005 also replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs, new pump, cooler, original-style pump fitting. Also having issues with this one - hard start, base oil pressure taking forever, but my IPR is maxed. I know the frustration.
Cam/crank in sync?

 

Yes, you mentioned almost everything except Sync. If your pressure remains high enough during all starts and during the running failure, you may have a Sync problem. If you have the ability, check the fuel pressure as well.

 

I will have to verify my crank and ficm sync with my scan tool. Would it lose sync in the middle of a trip though? If that is what happened?

I did check my fuel pressure as well and its between 60-70psi and I get some smoke out the the exhaust so I know I am getting fuel. Unless I pumped some bad fuel which could be a possibilty. If it is though would my issue be a symptom of bad fuel?

 

I will have to verify my crank and ficm sync with my scan tool. Would it lose sync in the middle of a trip though? If that is what happened?

I did check my fuel pressure as well and its between 60-70psi and I get some smoke out the the exhaust so I know I am getting fuel. Unless I pumped some bad fuel which could be a possibilty. If it is though would my issue be a symptom of bad fuel?

Yeah a sensor or wiring can fail at any time. Very possible.

 

Any stored DTC's?

-jokester

 

None.

UPDATE: VERY IMPORTANT

So I called FICMrepair.com which has helped me with most of my issues said I have killed the logic board in my FICM which is why it will not stay on. (my problem started in the middle of a trip yes it can happen out of nowhere from constantly running the engine after an HPO job without properly purging the system. It places more stress on the ficm due to long cranking to build ICP) If this is not common knowledge among the 6.0 community here it is once and for all. There is a CORRECT way to completely purge your HPO system! I will break it down step by step and relay their motto of "the devil is in the details" because I am definitely guilty of not knowing this and it has caused me issues.

So, there are two different scenarios and the steps change slightly. One in which replacing an injector was either the only job or was included in what you did or one in which you replaced anything BUT an injector.

(DISCLAIMER: IF THE JOB INCLUDED REPLACING AN INJECTOR PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO STEP 2A)

IF You have done a job where you expose the HPO system, IE: Dummy plugs, stand pipes, IPR, STC fitting. you will follow these steps once you have put everything back together and are ready to crank.

Step 1. Remove FICM relay
Step 2. Put batteries on a charger!
-STEP 2A: IF YOU REPLACED ANY INJECTORS DURING THE JOB OR ONLY REPLACED AN INJECTOR. MAKE SURE AFTER YOU PUT A CHARGER ON YOUR BATTERIES TO CYCLE THE KEY ON FOR 15 SECONDS AT LEAST 3 TIMES IN ORDER TO PURGE YOUR FUEL SYSTEM. DO NOT CRANK YET UNTIL THIS IS DONE!
-IF YOU DID NOT REPLACE ANY INJECTORS SKIP TO STEP 3
Step 3. Crank engine for 15 seconds. Let rest for 45 seconds. Do this until you see at least 500 psi on your ICP. Once you do, IMMEDIATELY perform Step 3
Step 4. Put FICM relay back in and crank again. Engine should start immediately.
Step 5. Let engine reach operating temperature.
Step 6. Drive vehicle in 2nd gear, YES SECOND GEAR for about 10 minutes. Be sure to build at least 3000 psi to purge out the last bits of air in your HPO system! It will be normal to rev it high in the 2500-3000 rpm range! Once this is all done you will have successfully purged all air in your oil system.


Again, this is all per FICMrepair.com directly. I hope this helps anyone having the same issue as I said I had no idea I was not sufficiently purging the HPO system and in turn this was causing my FICM, and IPR to work harder than they needed to and over time causing HPO issues. Lesson learned and if anyone would like to see these steps FICMrepair/s Youtube channel has plenty of videos breaking all of this down. Have a good day gents!

 

Are you getting a fuel pulse width (aka injector pulse width)?

-jokester

 

Are you getting a fuel pulse width (aka injector pulse width)?

-jokester

I have never had an injector pulse width issue. They are and have always been within the normal parameters. My previous post explains what the issue was. I gave them a step by step of everything I have done to the truck over the past year and they determined it was the FICM logic board. Apparently this is the most common killer of FICMS as people do not properly purge the oil system putting more stress on the battery voltage therefore leaking into low voltage going to the ficm when theyre cranking and cranking and cranking trying to build ICP.

 

Since the FICM is the module that has to issue an Injector Pulse Width command for the injectors to fire, he just wants to know if the FICM is getting that far .......... That said, as I understand it, you can even get a pulse width command and still not get the injectors to fire due to FICM logic issues. Still - a valid check.

 

Since the FICM is the module that has to issue an Injector Pulse Width command for the injectors to fire, he just wants to know if the FICM is getting that far .......... That said, as I understand it, you can even get a pulse width command and still not get the injectors to fire due to FICM issues. Still - a valid check.

Got it. That makes more sense now! I actually didn't know that. I will keep an eye out and double check. I'm replacing the FICM tomorrow once I get a warranty swap from ford. I'll update you all once I figure out if that was 100% my issue. Thank you all again!!

 

Update: so I replaced the FICM. Everything checks out as far as previous issues mentioned in this thread. only now I have no injector clatter when I cycle the ignition. I've unplugged FICM and reinstalled and checked ground wire for injector harness everything looks fine. When I plug in a scanner to run an injector self test it says "water in fuel" on the dash and won't even perform the test and all I hear is a click coming from under the cab. Could the WIF light cause the injectors not to fire even if the FICM is sending the signal?? Need some more help if anyone can spare some. My next thought was to drain and inspect the HFCM under the frame to make sure that's not my problem. ALSO: I do have fuel pressure going to my filter housing. I also have 0 injector pulse width at crank. Any help is much appreciated I'm still struggling. Thanks fellas!

 

You were asked several times to check cam/crank sync and FICM sync, but I never saw you post the results.

Are you getting BOTH of these Sync values turning to "1" or "yes" or "in sync" when cranking?

What are your cranking rpms?

Have you checked the fuses? specifically fuse #15 in the Battery Junction Box (under the hood)?

 

Checked Cam and Crank Sync, showed "YES" for both. Cranking rpms are above 150. Fuse 15 and 18 and relay are all getting power with no issues. I ordered a new HFCM cover since it was half off so I will be replacing that even if it does not fix my no start issue it would at least eliminate the WIF light coming up on the scanner. I should also say that the WIF light ONLY appears when the scanner is plugged in when i try to run the injector click test. It does not come up at all in any other conditions nor has it ever. As for the injector clatter issue The only other thing I can think of is to pull a known good FICM and plug it in and see if that changes anything. Any time ive cranked and seen no smoke at all it has been a FICM issue whether it wasnt plugged in all the way or the ground was loose. Thanks again for the help gents!

 

Fuse 18 should be in the junction box under the dash. 15 under the hood. Correct?

 

Fuse 15 I believe is the FICM IDM logic power. Fuse 18 is the IDM relay power. The are right next to eachother in the fuse box underneatht the hood. I cant remember exactly what the IDM relay power fuse does but back when I was trouble shooting an FICM logic power it came up to check this fuse along with F#15 I will attach a picture below.

 

I will have to look at the source of the power to the WIF light. It shares power with some common (important) circuits.

 

Gotcha. Thanks.

Not very common, but there have been cases where all 8 injectors had spool valve and/or coil issues - all at the same time. It can happen with very dirty oil.

 

I just did an oil change not even 500 miles ago along with stiction additive so the oil is fairly new, I do have an extra set of injectors but I really hope im not the one in a few cases where all 8 of my injectors went bad lol. That would send me off the walls having to do all 8 in one hit. The only other things I can think of is driving at a higher altitude?? I was at about 6,000 plus for 4th of july weekend then came back down to about 2,700. On that same trip back is when my truck stalled out on me.