Ok so update, I had hoped for somebody to reach out but I have reseated the pcm and ficm harness connections with no change. I have checked a few of the grounds I can get to and cleaned and re attached them with no change.

I'm googleing wiring diagrams in hope to reading out the glow plug system, I need to get it fixed as it's my only vehicle.

 

Ok, is that the only code? How long had you been idling when you took that picture on your SCT? 12.8 running voltage is pretty low.

Post a video to youtube of the crank, get your SCT and exhaust in view when you crank too. Post the link on here.

I have heard of the WTS light flickering or not coming on to be a problem with the PCM, not the glowplugs. From what I understand, the WTS light is separate from the plugs entirely.

FWIW, these trucks can start with no glowplugs perfectly fine in 75-degree weather.

 

The voltage was low as it was taken right after it started, it's billowing white smoke for a few seconds before and after it starts. I just changed the injectors and the ficm is only a year old. I have a feeling it is the main harness as I've had to replace some sections of the wire from heat and oil degrading the insulation.

I'm not sure what the wts light is, please advise as to what it does so I can better understand its purpose. As for the video of the sct tuner it cycles off when the key is in start, I will have to get the power cord and direct feed a separate power source to keep it active.

 

Use FORScan and pull all codes, and post them up here. Also, smell the smoke and make sure it's fuel.

The wait to start (WTS) light is the curly glowplug light. Someone will have to chime in on specifics, but it's just an idiot light on a timer. The plugs will stay on for roughly 2 minutes after you put the key to run them, and the WTS light goes off in a few seconds.

If you have an SCT X4, what I do is I'll turn the key to run the glowplugs, hit the circle button on the SCT, go out of the gauges (I think it says "stop datalog" or something like that), and go back into them. It takes a few seconds, but it pulls them up for when you are ready to crank.

The glowplugs won't turn on if it's above a certain temp, so that could also be an issue with the main harness and what the PCM sees as a temperature.

 

Definatly fuel, just made a video and I need to shower again... I just know it as the glow plug light 🤣, just like the actual coil indicator on old tractors that has a coiled wire that glew when it was ready. Video coming soon.

 

 

Wow, you weren't kidding. It's almost like fuel is just going straight in, and right on out. So this started happening after you changed injectors? If so, are you positive you installed correctly and didn't damage any seals on the install?

I'm calling in some cavalry cause I've never seen this before. @Hydro @bismic @jokester00

 

I changed the injectors a while back and they were working great. The only change I made recently was the entire bullet proof kit as pshown below.

 

I just refreshed the tune to stock with no change, I'm so frustrated.
Edit: i also plugged it in and it helped tremendously, started with little hesitation.

 

Need to see more PID's KOEO and while crank-no-start happens:

RPM
FICM LPower (would assume you have based on smoke)
FICM sync (would assume you have based on smoke)
Cam/Crank sync (would assume you have based on smoke)
ICPv
IPR%
ICP

-jokester

 

So, ...all that cranking at the start of the vid was with the glow plugs off
when the helper cycled the key, the glow plugs worked - and the engine started

The light on the dash is independent of the actual glow plugs, but is a general indicator of when to crank the engine
the plugs are actually on after the indicator light is off -- depending on engine and air temperature

Which your code shows that the engine temp sensor is shorted -- not not likely the actual sensor, more likely the wire in the harness
need to read the PID for the engine temp sensor, and disconnect the sensor to see if the PID changes

These engines need a little glow plug to fire, even in warm weather -- your shorted temp sensor is telling the PCM to not turn them on for very long -- if you hesitate long before cranking, the glow plugs have already cooled back off

 

ill try disconnecting the sensor and seeing if the code changes, i just replaces that sensor and had to repair that connector as the wire was toast but im still leaning towards the harness being the issue. i have attempted to key multiple times with same result, seems to only start when the block temps hit around 90deg. i will also do the KOEO test and see what it has to say and relay the information. i did use the block heater and she started right up but the block was 140deg so im back to the over 90deg to get her to start.

 

Let's see, ...engine oil temp, water temp, and Intake Air Temp 1 and 2 are used to control the glow plugs -- need to check all those

 

Ok, just a random thought. If the oil temp sensor has a short then how do I still have a working oil temp reading?

 

Bottom line is your glow plugs are not working in the vid, until the last crank
Is your normal habit to turn the key and wait (how long? ) after the light goes out? before cranking ?

so checking the sensor voltages should be done to verify they are working as intended
the system will make up numbers for others sensors if the voltage data is bad (open or short)
not sure if the temp sensors work in that same manner - so checking would prove that
ForScan will give the voltage outputs you need to see -- the SCT will not

 

I wait until the light goes out then right away crank, but it started being weird by coming on for 1 second the off for 1 second then on for 3 to 7 seconds and that's when I started having this issue along with the one code. I don't have Forscan but I do have auto Enginuity, do you think my program mill read voltage to specific sensors?

 

Yeah, AE is a great tool for these trucks -- ForScan is basically a clone of AE and both copy the Ford IDS

 

I dont have one on my truck, but a indicator light that actually monitors the glow plugs would be handy, especially for starting on cold mornings (you could time the max heat with cranking)

would be pretty easy to hook up, just would need to splice into one of the glow plug wires and install an LED lamp in the truck
actually would be good to have one for each bank

 

Im

 

i snatched the harness and now the code is gone and the glow plugs work... i need a new harness to fix the issue.

 

 

Nice, at least that part is happy -- did you get the glow plugs working ?

 

I sure did, it's the harness. I just shook the **** out of it until all the lights came on. 😆

 

Not really a proper Mechanic technique , ...LoL

Look closely for the sharp spot that has worn into the harness and repair that
Likely cutting the harness open at the damaged spot and repairing the insulation is all that is needed
Putting on a new harness, without addressing the cause of the damage will result in a "new" harness that has the same problem
There is a lot of vibration and some movement because of normal operation, so routing free of sharp corners, and restraining the harness is important

 

I've looked and the bolt heads seem to be the only chafing on the cable but that's not where the break is as it hasn't went through the shielding. The harness is in bad shape from oil soaked wires exposed to heat causing the insulation to Crack and expose the wire itself. I'll look for more possable issues but it seems to be just alot of bad insulation.