Hard to tell in pictures. Did the copper washer come out with old injector? Should be able to lube the injector o-rings and with steady downward pressure “pop” in then start the bolt.

 

My phone camera's not the best obviously, all 8 injectors came out with copper washers and rebuilt with new springs, orings, copper washers, carb cleaned all the parts, I don't see any problem with the threads in the head, I liberally applied clean oil to them, how much pressure are we talking here, I read a post where a guy was taking a hammer to them lol

 

I would remove o-rings and do a dry run. Just do not torque down all the way cause then your crush washer will not seal correctly once removed and replaced.

 

I would remove o-rings and do a dry run.

That's a good idea, thanks, I'll try it tomorrow when the suns up and the truck thaws!

 

How did you rebuild the injectors?

 

Used a rebuild kit from Bitterroot diesel

 

Need a better close up pick of the bore and the hold down bolt threads. Sure seems like something is binding it up.

-jokester

 

Here's the best Pics I can get

 

I know this is a long shot. But does it have the correct hold down bracket for your year model?

 

Yes, old style torx 40 bit

 

Or perhaps the clamp has some damage to it?

 

Did you assemble the top of the injector turned 180 ?

 

The way I read the original post he swap 2 with 4 but #4 still will not receive the injector.

 

Those threads don't look very clean to me. Maybe it's just the pic...

-jokester

 

Air hose and some brake clean -- followed with a small screw driver to ensure junk is not impacted in the bottom of the hole -- then air hose again

Lube the threads -- air hose again --- should be cleaned out now and have residual oil for lube

Injector will slide fully in place without the hold down ?
Maybe pull one of the "good" hold downs from another injector and compare on the bench -- bent possibly

 

Air hose and some brake clean -- followed with a small screw driver to ensure junk is not impacted in the bottom of the hole -- then air hose again

Lube the threads -- air hose again --- should be cleaned out now and have residual oil for lube

Injector will slide fully in place without the hold down ?
Maybe pull one of the "good" hold downs from another injector and compare on the bench -- bent possibly

Did you assemble the top of the injector turned 180 ?

I'll clean and lube and blow out and try again, the injector is sitting at the same height as the others, before tightening in. I've tried the old clamp and a new one, same clamp and injector went in and tightened down in #2, from #4 bore. Thanks.

 

that looks like a thread repair coil ?
have you tried another retainer bolt from another injector?

 

Yes I have, same problem, can't get bolt started into threads. I can get hold down clamp going in without the injector in, but that's obviously no help, I'm stumped. Thanks to everyone for your help.

 

you should not have to but have you considered a longer bolt and just verify it does not bottom out in the bore

 

I have definitely considered that, the bolt hole looks to be an inch deep, m8-1.25, anybody know the length of the clamp down bolt?

 

45mm

https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/threaded-fasteners-parts-list-work-in-progress.1405827/#post-16631111

Thanks @HEUI Lewis

 

Thanks bismic, HEUI and everyone else.

 

Update?

 

The update is I screwed up, lol. I took the bolt off the clamp down, tried to put it back in there and somehow managed to push the injector down in the bore and can't get it back up enough to put the clamp down in there. It appears to be blocked by the rocker assembly, and I'll have to take the ARP stud and 2 surrounding bolts off to get the injector out.

 

EDIT - nm, I see you have been through a difficult injector removal process. Guess I wasn't visualizing what you were saying.

 

I've got the injector out, used two screwdrivers to push and pull it out, put the crab on it, same issue not being able to start threading it in, longer bolt? Back to the drawing board.

 

You may have to rotate the engine by hand to release tension in the rocker. Use one of the damper bolts; it will move slowly, and you have to let the compression of whatever cylinder bleed off.

Thousands of injectors have been removed; something is off.

I'm with ZMANN. It looks like a thread repair coil, but it might be the photo. There's nothing special about that thread.

 

I agree of course, something is off in #4 and 8, both very difficult to remove, finally got 8 back in after a struggle, but 4 is giving me fits. I'm going to research the heck out of it before I take my next step, thanks to all for your advice.

 

lefty loosey, righty tighty.....j/k


After you get the injector back out, and start with the install process again, make sure the hole is cleaned out with air (as mentioned earlier). Last, start screwing bolt slowly to the left like your loosening it. As soon as you feel it skip the thread, then start to tighten. If you don't feel the skip. Then possibly the hole of the clamp is not quite lined up right or worse case, the threads are messed up. From the pictures above, they don't look messed up really, but hard to tell.

 

Thanks.

 

I do that with every bolt or screw, find the entry point match.

 

So, with the problem of fitting the injector in the hole without the clamp
May be a hint to why when you add the clamp that the bolt will not start

Whatever is "binding" on the injector is also binding on the clamp
or pushing the injector sideways enough to mis-align the bolt

I think you have more than just a bolt that will not thread in to the hole

That injector , without the orings should slip easily into the hole
and have a little side "wiggle" to it
the orings and clamp hold the injector "centered" in the hole

 

So, with the problem of fitting the injector in the hole without the clamp
May be a hint to why when you add the clamp that the bolt will not start

Whatever is "binding" on the injector is also binding on the clamp
or pushing the injector sideways enough to mis-align the bolt

I think you have more than just a bolt that will not thread in to the hole

That injector , without the orings should slip easily into the hole
and have a little side "wiggle" to it
the orings and clamp hold the injector "centered" in the hole

Couldn't agree more, just trying to figure out what's wrong?

 

A close up picture of the whole area looking as straight down into the bore as you can would help us all see what you're seeing!

-jokester

 

Best shot I can get

 

Hey guys I got it in and all 8 are torqued to 24 ft lbs. I had to apply a good deal of downward pressure and leverage it away from the rocker assembly a bit, but it finally went down that tiny bit to thread in and draw down the injector. Thanks to all, I'll let you know if it starts when I get it back together.

 

Those are meant to go straight down into the bore. Fingers crossed that you didn't damage an o-ring in the process!

-jokester

 

Is it possible that the cup was partially unseated? Asking for a friend.

 

The cup looked right to me, I think it was the rocker assembly in the way, perhaps I should have tried turning the motor by hand instead of forcing it in, as Jokester said, hope the o-rings are intact.

 

I have seen that before. Also, sometimes what you think is straight-in, isn't. Lubing up the O-rings and wiggling the injector/hold-down will help on injector insertion.

Hey guys I got it in and all 8 are torqued to 24 ft lbs. I had to apply a good deal of downward pressure and leverage it away from the rocker assembly a bit, but it finally went down that tiny bit to thread in and draw down the injector. Thanks to all, I'll let you know if it starts when I get it back together.

Still a crank no start, I've tried priming the oil rail by cranking with key off, then starting, both syncs are a 1, highest pressure I get to is about 380 before battery's die.

 

Crank for 30 seconds, rest starter for 2 mins - How many iterations of that have you gone through at this point? How long before the batteries die? I'd have them load tested if they keep dying.

Make sure you pull the FICM relay (when you're cranking with the key) till you get HPO pressure. Otherwise, you can damage your FICM.

-jokester

 

I can't get to 30s cranking, I need new batteries, you have a personal favorite?

 

I get mine from Costco - Interstates @ $105 / battery + $15 core charge if you don't return your old ones right then.

Do a search on here - TONS of info on what batteries and where to get them

-jokester

 

I get mine from Costco - Interstates @ $105 / battery + $15 core charge if you don't return your old ones right then.

Do a search on here - TONS of info on what batteries and where to get them

-jokester

$120 @ my nearest Costco, a lot cheaper than I've seen, thanks