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Connecting 3/8 rubber hose to steel quick connect lines

13K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  TooManyToys  
#1 ·
I'm starting a new thread hoping for an answer to my issue because I doubt anyone wants to read my really long thread to how I got to this point. How do I connect 3/8" ID rubber fuel injection hose to the steel inlet on the HCFM? The 3/8" hose I bought (also marked 9.5mm) is a sloppy fit on the steel so it must be bigger than 3/8" because the steel is right at .375". If I could get it over the "barb" then it might be okay because I could put a clamp on the other side of it. Can I buy fittings that have the quick connect fitting on one side and a 3/8" hose barb on the other end? The Dorman ones I found are mostly used for GM fitting with 5/16" nylon tubing on the barbed end according to reviews of them. How would you guys connect these things together?

Here is my long thread on where it all started.

No Power, Bucking, Stalls, P0282, P0279
 
#2 ·
I suspect that your hose is oversized and would also slip easily on a barbed fitting
that hose is sold by the inch - goto a different parts store and get a couple inches of their hose -- see if it fits any different
 
owns 2006 Ford F250 Lariat FX4
#4 ·
I'll do some investigating on the hose size but maybe 3/8 barbs are larger than 3/8"?

They do sell the fittings you want. If you have a local "speed shop" they might have them or you can go online. I like the ones that Russel makes where the locking part screws on.

Would this work?

Russell 611203: EFI SAE Female Quick-Connect Hose End Fitting Straight - JEGS High Performance

Grainger has some also.

I can't find them on there for some reason.

I called our local speed shop and they said they have no quick disconnect adapters. Maybe he didn't understand what I was looking for.
 
#7 ·
I never thought to look at those.

or put a double flare on the end of the HFCM steel line and then hose clamp the rubber there ?

I would rather not modify that at this point if I don't have to.

The hose I have is 225 psi Gates GreenShield and is about .385" ID. With two worm gear clamps on it I don't feel comfortable running it. With two fuel injection clamps on it isn't too bad for a non pressure line but I can still pull it right off the tube with not a lot of effort.
 
#8 ·
You're not going to flare stainless easily.

I've been running 3/8" Gates hose on the intake of the HFCM for more than a decade without issue, one clamp. The hose won't fit over the barb, it's too high of a pressure rating; too reinforced. If you want to try to get a hose over the barb, you'll need to use a low-pressure diesel fuel line, warm it up, and use a little grease on the hose. I had tried that one time, but it wasn't worth it.

You could also push something into the hose that is larger than 3/8" and let it stretch for a day or two.

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#10 ·
You're not going to flare stainless easily.

I've been running 3/8" Gates hose on the intake of the HFCM for more than a decade without issue, one clamp. The hose won't fit over the barb, it's too high of a pressure rating; too reinforced. If you want to try to get a hose over the barb, you'll need to use a low-pressure diesel fuel line, warm it up, and use a little grease on the hose. I had tried that one time, but it wasn't worth it.

You could also push something into the hose that is larger than 3/8" and let it stretch for a day or two.

View attachment 785069

I may try a constant tension spring clamp on the hose to compare it to the fuel injection hose clamps.
 
#9 ·
#11 ·
The Dorman branded constant tension spring clamps I bought are made of thin steel and did not hold all that great. I had some OEM type laying around and they were very nice and strong but were just a tad too big for me to use them. The fuel injection clamps are what I went with because I needed my truck back on the road and didn't have time to find some strong properly sized spring clamps. Hopefully the higher quality of the hose won't shrink much over time.
 
#12 ·
The best spring clamps of that size I get from McMaster. But if you are not used to getting from them, picking the correct size can be a PITA. They designate them for the OD of the hose, which is the best way. When you get them, on one of the tabs of the SAE type, they are designated in millimeters (15,16). If I remember correctly, I used either 15 or 16 on my hose for this application.

There are two designs, the ones with the small ears are not as strong (thick) as the others, and the others have a good amount of tension. You can use the Product Detail to see the hose clamp better.

I find these so much better than auto stores or Amazon clamps.

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#13 ·
I went out to the garage for pics. It looks like I need to order more. While the catalog is in Imperial, the packages are Metric.

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These have a wider spread than the ones we usually find.

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#17 ·
These are all the clamps I've ever ordered from McMaster (red numeration). But it also includes clamps that I've needed for small engine service at the farm.

Historically when I've ordered them, I took them out of the package and put them into my bins based on the diameter or mm number. This last time a few years back, I cut out the ID on the bags to better identify them, but that doesn't give me McMaster's number, which screws the info I'm trying to provide you. I'll probably order some clamps next week, so I'll try to do a better job sorting this part number mess.

The other thing McMaster screws up is the coloration; the majority are black phosphate.

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#18 ·
@Shanester , I finally ordered a package from McMaster Carr.

So here is the one I ordered so you can see how they list in Imperial but package in metric. It is true to the OD of the hose, and as we know, hoses for a specific size can vary in OD based on the hose design.



So this 21/32", 17mm clamp is just over 1/2" in the rested diameter; it tightly slides over my 5/16" Gates fuel hose. As the minimum size hose, I'd used it on a 3/8" Gates fuel hose.

IMG_4885.JPG


With the ears compressed with my hose clamp tool, the open diameter is 0.647.



If you wanted to go full monte, for me, it requires a staged opening with the hose clamp tool and two vice grips to get to 0.700".

 

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