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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today my truck started to buck and lose power going down the highway. After getting off the highway it was running very rough and almost died. I had to stop twice and it almost did not get going both times and could hardly go over 40 MPH. Then about a mile from home I turned onto a road that had a small hill and it would not climb, bucked like the whole truck was going to shake apart and then just died. I put it park and immediately tried to start it. It cranked for maybe 20 or so seconds and finally started but ran badly. For some reason it had a tad more power and I was able to limp it back home. I drained the fuel out of the fuel conditioning module and the fuel looked good. There were a little more rust particles than normal but was not alarming to me. I pulled the codes and got P0272, P0279, P0671, P0672, P0674, P0676, P0677, P0678. Maybe I should start another thread on the glow plugs. After that I started it up and it ran and sounded normal but I have not driven down the road yet. Injectors were replaced by me about 5 years ago and maybe have 60K-70K miles on them. The FICM was repaired and I think it had some better parts put into it but can't remember who repaired it. It was probably 8 or 9 years ago. I read many threads on those first two codes but did not see anyone with the exact same scenario. Can someone give a list of items to check starting with the most likely issue first? I just don't want to start going in the wrong direction.
 

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If it matters no dash lights came on.
Sounds like a fueling issue. How much fuel is in the tank?
3 things can be happening. The pump is failing, the pick up tube in the tank has failed, the whole hfcm is failing. I guess the fuel filters could be clogged as well.

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First, I would get the glow plug issues resolved. Issues with the glow plugs can drag down system voltage and cause a number of issues. One issue is that the FICM is damaged by low voltage.

Post up what your KOEO FICM MPower and LPower voltages are. Then post what they are when cranking.

Below is a little guide on injector electrical codes:

High and low codes indicate that an injector is not drawing the expected amount of electrical current when actuated (low current condition is due to an open in a circuit somewhere). It could be EITHER power or ground circuit on EITHER coil, the open coil or the close coil. This includes the harness, both coils, and POSSIBLY the FICM itself (unlikely though). A single injector low code typically ends up being the injector, a harness issue the next likely cause. It is rare that a FICM would cause a single injector low DTC.
You can disconnect the harness at the suspect injector and measure the resistance of each coil to determine if they are electrically open. Measure between pins 1 and 2 for the open coil and pins 3 and 4 for the close coil. A typical reading is about 0.8 to 1.0 ohms which is in the middle of the specs. You can find pin numbers on the face of the connector molded into the plastic and they are very small. A light and a magnifying glass might help you read them. If either coil does not meet specification the injector is bad and needs to be replaced. If the coils test good then you need to test the harness circuits. If those test good the FICM is suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like a fueling issue. How much fuel is in the tank?
3 things can be happening. The pump is failing, the pick up tube in the tank has failed, the whole hfcm is failing. I guess the fuel filters could be clogged as well.

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1/4 tank of fuel. It is funny you bring up the HFCM because I think the pump sounds a little different than normal but of course I am being critical of everything right now. I was thinking of changing the fuel filters first. Is there a test for the HFCM and also how can I check for the pick up tube without dropping the tank? Of course it seems to run perfect now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First, I would get the low plug issues resolved. Issues with the glow plugs can drag down system voltage and cause a number of issues. One issue is that the FICM is damaged by low voltage.

Post up what your KOEO FICM MPower and LPower voltages are. Then post what they are when cranking.

Below is a little guide on injector electrical codes:

High and low codes indicate that an injector is not drawing the expected amount of electrical current when actuated (low current condition is due to an open in a circuit somewhere). It could be EITHER power or ground circuit on EITHER coil, the open coil or the close coil. This includes the harness, both coils, and POSSIBLY the FICM itself (unlikely though). A single injector low code typically ends up being the injector, a harness issue the next likely cause. It is rare that a FICM would cause a single injector low DTC.
You can disconnect the harness at the suspect injector and measure the resistance of each coil to determine if they are electrically open. Measure between pins 1 and 2 for the open coil and pins 3 and 4 for the close coil. A typical reading is about 0.8 to 1.0 ohms which is in the middle of the specs. You can find pin numbers on the face of the connector molded into the plastic and they are very small. A light and a magnifying glass might help you read them. If either coil does not meet specification the injector is bad and needs to be replaced. If the coils test good then you need to test the harness circuits. If those test good the FICM is suspect.

Where should I start on the glow plugs? Is this likely a harness issue?
 

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You may very well have fueling issues, but fueling issues aren't going to cause your two injector electrical codes, so they are something that you need to address.

You start with glow plug troubleshooting by checking resistance from the electrical connectors at the GPCM. DTR has a video on it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I checked the glow plug connectors and 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, and 8 are all open circuits. Apparently I'm starting on two glow plugs.(3&5) Since these are open circuits what is the chance that all 6 glow plugs are bad? What about the harness and boots? I tried to see if the ones I could get to easily were tight on the plugs and they seemed to be. I tried to pull one off so I could check the plug and of course the boot separated from the harness. Awesome. Afterward I remember some talking about being careful with those. I can't remember how I removed them 9 years ago when I studded it. Also since they are just open circuits then I'm assuming there is not an electrical draw issue causing the injector codes. I'm almost for sure the fuel pump is getting weak because it takes almost 20 seconds to build up pressure before shutting off. The tone changes at the last few seconds and sounds bad. Is there a way to check pressure with fittings I can find today locally?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
One more thing I forgot to mention. This very thing happened two years ago coming back from Florida towing my 10K lb fifth wheel. Started shaking and lost power not being able to stay above 45 MPH. I pulled off, turned truck off and then restarted and took it easy the rest of the way back. We were only about an hour and a half from home and it never did it again until yesterday. I did put the blue spring in 9 years ago.
 

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Get a fuel pressure gauge.

Check fuses and relays - especially the ones for the Instrument Cluster

Replace all glow plugs and both of the harnesses

Ohm-check the injectors with the codes. Replace injectors as necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I put an Edge Insight CTS3 on it and the FICM voltage is 47 after starting and then goes to 47.5 after a few minutes. After driving it around for about 30 minutes it goes between 47.5 and 48. Every once in a while it will go back to 47 but just briefly. When cranking it does drop a little but bounces all over the place so is hard to get a good reading. The battery voltage is about 11.4 with key on and then after about a minute of running is about 13.2. Last week I unhooked each battery and they were both right at 12.4v. Does anything seem odd so far?

After looking for a fuel pressure tester with a long enough hose I found one at Chinese Freight with a 3' hose. I hooked it up and drove around for a bit. At idle was 68-70 psi and before fully warmed up the lowest I could get it to go under WOT was about 52-53. After the coolant was up to 195F I got on the interstate for a few pulls and it got down to about 48 for a second. Most of the time it was well into the 50's to 60 or so. After shutting the truck down the pressure drops to about 10 psi in just a few seconds and then to 0 after about five more seconds. If I turn the key back on the pressure shoots up to about 70 in about two seconds.

For long term I'm installing a fuel pressure sender and all the grossly overpriced EAS cables for the Insight. It is not real obvious that you need all these cables when you order the main unit. I find out after receiving it that I still needed the "starter" cable.


I have not dug into the glow plugs and does not look like a fun project replacing all of them and the harnesses. To me it does not seem critical to do at the moment but maybe I'm wrong.
 

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If it matters no dash lights came on.
With the codes you posted -- the check engine light would be definitely on -- do the self test on the instrument cluster to see the lights work
 

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Voltage on the ficm should hold steady at 48 volts nominal -- if not then check the input voltages as @bismic mentioned
else, the ficm power supply is going bad -- low input voltage will cause this
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I looked at the FICM voltage on the Insight while cranking and it looked like it was steady at 47.5. While driving it around for about 60 miles today I noticed four times (out of probably a hundred lol) it was 46.5v for a split second. Most times it was 47.5 to 48 and sometimes 47. Is this contraption an accurate accurate measure and is this an indicator that the FICM might be going bad? Can heat make them act up when they start to go out because when my truck acted up it was much warmer out.
 

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Does the Insite not have a min/max on the readout? My SCT does
that way you do not have to watch it all the time
 
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