Bulletproof has a list of authorized installers on their website

 

By "Bulletproof" I meat using improved parts, bolts gaskets etc. as as a skilled and knowledgeable specialist in this work would, not necessarily limited to the proprietary kits. I had contacted Bulletproof about their recommended installers but nothing under 325miles.

 

90,000 miles and it needs that kind of work and possibly a cracked head? I know when 6.0 are right they are screamers but I'd be running away.

 

You mean scrap it and don't try to fix it? Why? Please explain your economics?

 

I wouldn't scrap it as it still has a bunch of valuable parts but after you pay the $7,000 or so to get it fixed properly is there any value left in it after that?

 

sure is you have a fine truck good for a nomber of years of hard work at a price much less than the $70,000 one costs new.

 

When well running diesels of any year are selling for $20k+, then yes, there is significant potential value.

All depends on what is broken and if a quality repair can be made.

 

I guess it all depends on where you live, 6.0 are selling for around $10k where I live and that's in running driving condition and all cab configurations.

 

Any with 90k miles on the engine and truck? If so, please post some links! I have been looking for one - even if it needs new heads.

I have looked at a lot of $10k 6.0's (we have them in my area also). They are all high mileage and abused (oil field trucks), and yes, they seem to be "somewhat" driveable.

 

None with 90k miles yet, most seem to be in the high 100s and low 200s. I actually just looked to see what I could find to post up, I don't use Facebook so I looked on offer up and there is a crewcab 4x4 shortbed that they claim just died and won't restart for $4,000 with 170k miles. Also an extended cab dually with a couple new injectors for $10,700.

With the cab configuration as the op that's a hard sell, I have an 02 model of his same truck but in 2wd and I paid less than what a set of injectors would cost. I just put 600 miles on it this past weekend.

 

I don't do Facebook either!

The cab configuration and whether or not it has 4WD is certainly a factor. So is the extent of rust (or lack thereof).

Like I said, I wasted a few weekends looking at $10k trucks. It was always readily apparent as to why they were priced the way they were.

The OP's thread sounds like his 6.0L is in good shape other than the head issue. If that is the case, I totally think it is worth repairing. If rust is heavy, or maintenance has been lax, OR it has overheated a few times, then I certainly see your point! Can't say that the threads on failed lifters have gone un-noticed!

Supposedly the commonized heads have less issues with the heads cracking (usually around the injector hold-down bolt).

 

That's where the op has the upper hand, he has a retired ambulance as is mine and typically fleet vehicles especially life saving units get maintained very well so it might not even have a cracked head in his situation. When I bought mine from the city they stated it needed the entire fuel system replaced. I've replaced injector number 3 and haven't done anything other than normal maintenance. I paid $1600 for a truck that run and drove and now has just shy of 221,000 miles on it.

The issue he is having might not be as serious as he thinks it is, I just hate the idea of spending so much money on a vehicle, unless he plans to keep it and use it he might not be able to make any money on the deal but possibly just break even.

Not saying fixing is a horrible idea it's just it's kind of risky as when all said and done he might not have a bunch of value left in it for resale.

 

I hear ya, but if there is fuel in the coolant it is almost certainly a cracked head on the 6.0L. That said, there is a SLIM chance it could be coming from an injector sleeve (cup) - but you would also need to have a damaged injector lower o-ring for fuel to enter cooling system.

With the price of diesel fuel, I can understand how hard it is to make decisions on repair. I have a 1997 HD (300k miles) that I just spent $2500 on - for paint. Not sure how much driving will be done in it! Still - I love that truck!

 

I don't know about Boise/Ontario area but I've done work and have had good results with a shop in Idaho Falls, ID and Bend, OR but I know those are pretty far drives in either direction from your location. There is a couple that I work with that are a mom and pop sub contractor for the company I work for that are from Ontario, OR that go way back in the diesel scene there. They've talked about a shop they've used consistently out of Nampa or Boise since the late 90's that does great work and did a lot of repairs/upgrades when they both had 6.0's. I'll ask them what the shop was and report back. In the mean time if your looking to travel a little further I'd highly recommend Adrenaline Performance out of Shelly ID, Powertech Diesel out of Idaho Falls ID or House of Power out of Bend OR.

 

Wow $2500 is cheap for a paint job from what I've researched, I want to get my 79 mustang painted but I don't have $5000 laying around for that.
This again can be where some people don't think an older mustang is worth putting $5000 into because the value might not be there, but I've put almost $12000 into the car in the past 2 years so I'm way past any type of money return on my investment.

 

KBB values my truck (if fixed) at $13K and it is the configuration i want so if it could be bullet proofed for $7k I'd be happy. As far as local market goes a local dealership has one very like mine but 4 years older for $28K????

 

The 7.3 is the one everyone wants, especially because they have 0 emissions devices.

28k is very high but someone will pay it alot of it because of the engine.

 

IMO the 7.3 following and resale market is not what it used to be (if you ask anyone other than a 7.3 owner ;-)
,, sure the 7.3 motor was dependable , but they are all about 20 years old or more and time is taking it's toll

the 6.0 has about the same emissions as a late 7.3 , nicer interior nicer ride if 05 +, faster in stock form and easy to work on
if someone does not want to put work into these older trucks then the 6.7 where they shop

the 6.4 is the stay away years

 

Wait... since when does a 7.3 have egr? And my 7.3 came out of the factory with no dpf. Which is what is making the value so high imo because of no emissions devices you can do whatever mods you like.

The 05 have better ride if comparing the four wheel drive models, the 2wd are pretty identical.

The 6.0 and 7.3 are both fairly easy to work on just don't really ever have to remove a head on a 7.3

7.3 are dogs in stock form but for about $3000 it can be around the 400 hp mark without opening the engine which is pretty decent for a 28 year old engine.

Everything has its pluses and minuses. I've worked on plenty of 6.0 and I've owned 3 7.3 powered trucks.

I wouldn't buy into the 6.7 because they leak oil like a sum *****. Atleast every single one I've ever worked on has leaked oil from the upper oil pan. Some new with around 30k miles and some high milage units.

 

My neighbor has a sweet 2016 6.7L. Been a really nice truck for him!

 

I sure like all the creature comforts the 6.7's can provide just hard to deal with the idea of truck payments again
I will just keep my old stuff going ,, all my stuff is old lol 91 xr 650 l dual sport
all my PWC's are 98-to 93 my other vehicles are 03 a 79 and an 81 lol

 

They are very nice and they make some power, I just always look at things as how hard it will be to work on out-of warranty.

I had a 2015 f250 king ranch for a while in 2015 and my wife loved it but it was too much of a truck for a daily driver and I was always worried about scratches

 

A kid skidded through an intersection and then spun through a carwash drive lane and smashed my neighbors 6.7L a few years back. He was sick. Insurance took care of it though. His wife drives a 2002 7.3L. One night I heard 6 load pops. Someone put six .45 caliber slugs into it. Just across the street. I got up and went outside to look for the noise pretty quick after the shots (not knowing what they were). Fortunately the perp(s) had left!

Strange stuff is always happening to him. He always fixes his stuff up - inside and out. He is in the trucking parts and service industry and knows all the good mechanics. It certainly does cost more to work on the new ones, but parts aren't always easy to find for the older ones.

(sorry for the thread hijacking Mike)

 

That right there makes the most sense out of anything right now.

 

Error Correction and Value update.
Mine is a 2006 XLT regular cab 4x4 dually with a "walk thru" I might convert to camper. KBB is $14,150 average. Paid $3,500 for it so want to get it done good but still now recommended mechanics. ALSO i did not say but the ERG system has been done already.

 

is this a cab and chassis ?
walkthru cab kinda throws KBB out the window or did you find that in the KBB ?

 

Co

is this a cab and chassis ?
walkthru cab kinda throws KBB out the window or did you find that in the KBB ?

Correct. My KBB value based on regular bed and my truck is just cab and chassis. The chassis is extended backwards giving a total bed length of 12' so with the walk thru ideal for building out a camper.

 

so an ex ambulance right ?

hard to put a price on those ,, but agreed it saves a lot of work for a camper build

 

Not sure how up to date this is, but at least maybe a start.

Member approved repair facilities

alright, hear is the deal!!! if you have had a good experience with a dealer, independent, or a tech workin in his driveway.....post it here!!! there will be NO bashing or deviation from the "approved" ideal allowed in this thread. There are other places in this forum to bash repair facilities...

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