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6.0 Crank no start. Running out of ideas. Please help!

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41K views 47 replies 5 participants last post by  jokester00  
#1 ·
I’m working on a 2006 F350 with a 6.0 for someone else. I haven’t worked on the 6.0s before but I have a ton of experience with the 7.3s. Now for the details.

History: (from what I was told)
Truck has 268k
Cranks but doesn’t even try to start
I was told that the truck was running fine then just died and wouldn’t start back up.
It was sent to someone to fix and they replaced the batteries, HPOP, IPR, and IPC.
Afterwards the truck still cranks but didn’t even try to start.
It sat in their yard for over a year.
Then the truck was sent to me to fix it.

What I have done:
I first checked all the wiring for any damage (especially rat chew). The only thing I found was all but one tab on the connectors to the FICM were broken.

I made sure they were fully seated, then after charging and testing both batteries, I hooked up my scan tool. And got the following results while cranking:
EBP: 14.5
RPM: 171.8
HPOP: 1312.7
BAT. Volts: 10.5 (began at 12.1)
IPR: 40.2%
ICP Volts: 1.5
FPV: 10.5 (began at 12.0)
FLP: 10.0 (began at 12.0)
FMP: 47.5
SYNC: 1

I also pulled codes for the TBC (which shows an error on the display on the dash), the glow plug module, and an open/short condition on all 8 glow plugs. There were no other codes.

All the numbers I monitored while cranking looked good so I checked for fuel flow by removing the filter on the top of the engine and turned on the ignition while the valve was kept open. The filter housing filled quickly. I don’t have the tools to check the actual fuel pressure but, with how fast the housing filled I don’t think it’s a fuel supply issue). I then checked the voltages at the FICM with my multimeter. The voltages were right where they were supposed to be.

From what I read the 6.0s are supposed to do a “buzz test” when you turn on the ignition. The only sound from under the hood I hear when turning on the ignition is a humming from the fuel filter area. I assume that’s the fuel pump. Other than that there’s no other sounds with the exception of the vacuum pump on occasion.

I then ran a KOEO electrical self test using FORScan. It showed that it passed the test. However, there was no sound from the injectors.

When I run the same test on any of my 7.3s I hear the buzz from the injectors. I assume that the same test on the 6.0 should sound similar, and so should the “self test” when I turn on the ignition. Please let me know if I’m wrong. I don’t know anyone else with a 6.0 for me to compare what they should sound like when theignition is turned on or the test is ran.

I went ahead and ran every test with FORScan that could be ran without the engine running, and they all passed, except for the glow plugs and the TBC.

I did the one thing I hate to even try, I tried to start the truck with starter fluid. When I did, it fired up. However, it only runs with the starter fluid.

At that point I read every post I could find to see if I could find something else to check or try. I came up with nothing. I figured it was a good possibility the logic board in the FICM may be at fault.

I let the owner of the truck know what I found and what I thought it most likely was. He agreed to have me replace the glow plug relay, injector wiring harness, connector on the main harness to the FICM, and the FICM.

I ordered the FICM from all computer resources.com and the other parts from Amazon. The owner don’t want to spend more than he has to because he’s only trying to sell it.

I first replaced the glow plug relay, the injector wiring harness and main harness to FICM connector. I erased all the codes and tried to start the truck. There was no change in cranking, and it still didn’t start. So, I ran all the tests I could again. They all passed except for the open/short condition for all eight glow plugs. The glow plug relay error code didn’t come back, just the eight plugs themselves. I then monitored the same parameters as I listed above while cranking. I got the same results.

So, I replaced the FICM and made sure the batteries were fully charged, then tried to start the truck. It still was doing the same thing, cranking but not starting. So, I ran the same tests as before and got a P0611 code and the eight glow plug codes. I cleared the codes and tried again. Now I only get the eight glow plug codes.

The next thing I did was monitor the sensors, the same as I did before and got the following readings:
EBP: 14.4
RPM: 177.0
HPOP: 1411.3
BAT. Volts: 11.7 (began at 13.0)
IPR: 40.6%
ICP Volts: 1.6
FPV: 10.0 (began at 13.0)
FLP: 10.5 (began at 13.0)
FMP:
SYNC: 1

A few other notes:
Oil level is full.
The batteries stay on a charger when not testing.
The owner doesn’t want to change the TBC.
Since I have had it there has not been any smoke from the tailpipe.
I’m going absolutely crazy trying to figure this out.
After replacing all the parts including the FICM there is still no sounds from under the hood other than the humming by the fuel filter. Same as before.

I am pleading for help on this. Any information will be greatly appreciated.
 
#3 ·
This above!! Need to know if you have cam/crank sync or FPW.

No fuel = no smoke! That says your FICM isn't telling the injectors to fire. As for your question earlier - yes, you should hear the injectors cycle at KOEO. Perform an injector electrical buzz test. You should hear all 8 cycle together and then each injector one at a time (3 rounds total).

-jokester
 
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#7 ·
My first thought was the FICM. But then you said you replaced it. So I'm inclined to ask if you can get the ficm volts using the pins on the top. Maybe you got a bad one. And I'm going to assume the batteries are good, and the connections are good from the batteries. Because bad plugs aren't your problem. But if you want to fix the bad plugs, it's common to replace the glow plug harnesses when you replace the GPCM, and go ahead and replace the actual plugs. I think the OEM plugs are 10 bucks a pop, and the harnesses are 80 bucks for both. But again, that's not your problem.
 
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#8 ·
Sorry I didn’t post earlier but, our internet was down.
I added the PID’s and tested again. Here are the results while cranking:
Cam / Crank Sync: 1
FIPW: 2.0
EBP: 14.4
Batt V: 11.9
HPOP: 1423.3 (Slowly drops after I stop cranking)
ICP V: 1.6
FMP: 54.5 (Same as when testing at the terminals on the FICM)
FLP: 11.5
FVP: 11.0
IPR: 41.6
RPMs: 191.8
VGT: 0.0

I’m not worried about the glow plugs. It’s plenty hot out and I don’t need them to start the truck. The new owner can worry about that.
I just need this POS to start so I can get it out of my yard.

Thank all of you for the help.
 
#31 ·
alright, please load test those batteries. They might be new but that po611 is a ficm failure. So your ficm is most likely being killed by the batteries if the ficm is new.

Edit:its also possible the glow plugs are drawing too much power from the batteries. It's a stretch but...
 
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#10 ·
I went ahead and checked for codes again. The only ones I pulled are:
P0671
P0672
P0673
P0674
P0675
P0676
P0677
P0678

All of which are glow plug issues.

I also got a P0611. I believe that’s because I have a 56 volt FICM.
 
#11 · (Edited)
So the guy is short on money and you bought a 58V FICM to try (all computer resources.com)?

I don't understand that. Without more information or clarification, I would have to be thinking the P0611 is real and you have issues in the FICM, (but in reality you probably don't since a 58V FICM will work fine and throw a P0611).

EDIT - you could also ohm the injector coils themselves. A batch of 8 injectors has been known to be sold to a customer or two

Also - dirty oil has been known to clog all 8 spool valves before.

Lastly, just for grins. Disconnect both GPCM plugs and try to start it.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I still don't see whether you confirmed you have FICM sync or not. I see cam/crank sync is good and "sync" on your first couple posts is good, but you still haven't confirmed if that was FICM sync. That's a biggie...

You definitely have an issue where the injectors aren't firing for some reason. Have you done the buzz test I mentioned earlier? I wouldn't expect to hear anything since you don't hear anything at KOEO, but it's another diag tool.

-jokester
 
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#14 ·
You don't seem to understand the specifics. The GPCM doesn't have an individual relay.

Power from battery 2 goes to the GPCM for the glow plugs themselves through two wires - each with a fusible link.
VPower (control module power) goes to the GPCM from the PCM Power relay in the CJB, through fuse F2.22 (and to the GPCM). If anything pulls down the VPower, you will have processor issues - PCM issues maybe and possibly FICM issues.

So if you are saying you disconnected "the glow plug relay", I guess you are talking about the PCM relay. Of course if you disconnect that relay it won't start. That test doesn't make sense.

I am bowing out of this thread - too much detail requested and not gotten for me.
 
#17 ·
OK, so unplugging both connectors on the GPCM didn't change anything, then, correct? That's actually good news in a way (you take it where you can 🤣).

Do you have, or can you get a known good injector? If so, disconnect one of the more easily accessible injectors and plug that connector into the known good injector- retry buzz test to see if it makes noise then. This will let you know if it is the injector(s) itself(themselves) or upstream upstream in the wiring/FICM.

-jokester
 
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#21 ·
I don’t have access to another injector for the 6.0. I don’t know anyone that has a 6.0.

If you go to allcomputerresourcecom then click on the photo above where it says Ford FICM 6.0 you’ll see an option for the 58 volt “upgrade” just under the price.
 
#23 ·
We'll get this figured out...it just makes it harder not being in front of the truck and knowing exactly what you're doing.

I'm still sticking with my original thought...need to figure out why the injectors don't make any noise during the pre cycle clatter.

Watch this video and see if it helps any. Sounds similar to your issue


-jokester
 
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#25 ·
Well, no luck. I bypassed the relay just as it showed in the video and there is no clatter at all. I also tested the voltage going to the relay and the fuses. All of them showed voltage. I am also getting the high voltage at the FICM. I tested that on the FICM itself, not just with the scan tool.
Thanks for the video, at least now I know what it should sound like.
 
#26 ·
Yeah, it was a shot in the dark. I didn't think that was it, but it gave you something else to rule out.

Honestly, I think you're down to injectors or another FICM.

-jokester
 
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#28 ·
OP,

@bismic mentioned earlier about dirty oil possibly clogging the injectors. Have you done an oil change yet or at least drained some to check it out?

Also, I guess you could buy 1 injector and then use it to test the others...THEN purchase the other 7 if that ends up being the issue.

-jokedter
 
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