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The "computers" run from the driver side battery -- the smaller positive crossover ensures that the driver side battery does not lose too much power during a crank

Over sizing the driver side cables creates a low power situation for the electronics -- some design thought was put into that system to keep the electronics powered

That means the passenger battery is the work horse of the system -- if you want the batteries to last longer, it would be a good idea to swap sides occasionally to balance out the wear
fascinating does this mean i should not be replacing the cross + wire that runs across the top of the rad with 0 gauge?

The problem with the driver's side battery powering the electronics is the factory setup has the primary 8ga negative to the body tub ground plane off the passenger battery. Unless you have a dual..ETC
you are honestly a national treasure dude
 
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If I run new cables can i connect the drivers side battery straight to the alternator (with a heavy in-line fuse of course) instead of running the drivers pos to the passenger pos and then to the alternator. My plan is to run a new 2/0 from each battery pos to the alternator with in-line fuses while leaving the original alternator to passenger battery. The drivers pos to passenger pos wire is gone. Will the current flow through the alternator to the starter when demanded? I figure it will because I believe the alternator has a delay before it starts to charge.
Thank you!
During my endeavors, the truck will let you know that this isn't a good idea. I've one large cable, that runs from the drivers side to the passengers positive clamp, and the clamp is like what a semi would have on it or similar.
I've changed out the grounds on the passenger side, under the fender to the frame. I've cleaned all the contacts to the grounds, that I can find. I've plans to connect the neg of the drivers side to the frame, and then from there go to the eng. and yes, I got this from watching someone on You tube. But, I've been trying to figure out how to make my truck run correctly, since I bought it. Plus, I put in two new interstate batteries, and a 250 amp alternator. So far, when I was running it, all the scope is calling for is new glow plugs. I removed the under skirting of the fenders, but still trying to get the wire looms to come off. These seem to be original, since they fall apart soon as you touch them. Still learning about the Tan Man. TT04, 6/7/2022
 

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i would not dare going smaller than original, why risk it? The OEM for a 6.0 is 2/0 i believe. but my 1/0 was oversized and a quality supplier, so i was satisfied.
i just re did all of mine, aside from the starter cable. and i added a 4ga to the alt.
after all my research, I used tinned OFC cable and search amazon for tinned "marine grade" lug ends, and dual wall adhesive lined heat shrik. "marine grade" is a common search term. and then a wire loom of your choosing

for non diy, most people like Custom Battery Cables - Best Quality Copper Replacement | USA Made
Are the cables in your link tinned?
Tinned is definitely much better.

Do you have a link to the supplies you bought?
 

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He builds cables the size and manner I suggested in a forum about 6-7 years ago, except they are not tinned. Marine Grade is what I use because they are tinned, although the insulation has a lower temp range.

Stock:
Crossover Positive - 2ga
Starter Positive - 2/0ga
Battery Negative (Both) - 1/0ga
Negative to Body Tub - 8ga.
Not indicated in the Factory Diagrams, the two 12ga braided bonding cables are part of the Body Tub connection for the ground plain.
 
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This is a good company that makes cables to your specs which are marine cables.
 
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He builds cables the size and manner I suggested in a forum about 6-7 years ago, except they are not tinned. Marine Grade is what I use because they are tinned, although the insulation has a lower temp range.

Stock:
Crossover Positive - 2ga
Starter Positive - 2/0ga
Battery Negative (Both) - 1/0ga
Negative to Body Tub - 8ga.
Not indicated in the Factory Diagrams, the two 12ga braided bonding cables are part of the Body Tub connection for the ground plain.
I'm also kind of partial to tinned wiring. I doubt I'll live long enough for that to be a deal breaker anymore. But it's hard to break old habits.

I wish people in general were a little more demanding on quality.
 

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I mostly ordered from Waytek.

knu has the big, tinned wire in the marine section.

im not seeing tinned wire on waytek, besides small speaker wire
 

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They don't, never have. But it is a great supplier of many parts.

But if I'm going to get marine cable, it will be from a store that supplies to the marine industry. The cable I always try to buy is Ancor.

Belden also makes tinned wire, which I usually get from Newark, also a great supplier of parts.

 

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knu has the big, tinned wire in the marine section.

im not seeing tinned wire on waytek, besides small speaker wire
I think I ordered the tinned 3/0 and 2/0 off of eBay or maybe Amazon.

I have seen a lot of cables with internal corrosion over the years.
A simple continuity test won't find it.

I have found bad cables by using the load tester at the end of the cables before.
 

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I work with semi trucks quite a bit. I hardly see 1/0 Guage wire for batteries, what would happen if I swapped the cable out with 1 Guage wire? I can't seem to find the terminals I want to make it look good without exposing the wire? I tried junkyards but no luck.
You are having trouble finding 1/0 battery terminals for a Group 65 battery?

I ordered some battery terminals for a car off of Amazon, and was so disappointed with the quality of what I received, I disposed of the ones off Amazon and cleaned then reused the old ones.

If someone has an example of what they have used other than an OEM replacement Lug. Might help him. Personally am not afraid of crimping; its not that hard cutting off a little bit of wire and adding a lug, but I am afraid of spending money on a replacement lug to have it come in and be useless because the replacement is only as thick as sheet metal.
 

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You are having trouble finding 1/0 battery terminals for a Group 65 battery?

I ordered some battery terminals for a car off of Amazon, and was so disappointed with the quality of what I received, I disposed of the ones off Amazon and cleaned then reused the old ones.

If someone has an example of what they have used other than an OEM replacement Lug. Might help him. Personally am not afraid of crimping; its not that hard cutting off a little bit of wire and adding a lug, but I am afraid of spending money on a replacement lug to have it come in and be useless because the replacement is only as thick as sheet metal.
for terminals i used these which i think most on here use
Amazon.com: Ampper Military Spec Battery Terminal End, Top Post Battery Terminal Set for Marine Car Boat RV and Vehicles (1 Pair) : Automotive

for the lugs i use these in varying sizes for the wire and connection size. "marine grade" is the normal key word for the tinned stuff on amazon
TKDMR 10pcs 1/0 Awg-3/8" Ring Marine Grade Copper Wire Lugs,with 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing,UL Battery Cable Ends,Heavy Duty Cable Lugs,Tinned Copper Eyelets,Tubular Ring Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

i also broke down and got a hydraulic crimper. so many less headaches, safer and more secure. and it pushed me into making better cables for my older cars too
Industrial Hydraulic Cable Lug Crimper 16TON 9 AWG to 600 MCM Electrical Terminal Cable Wire Tool Kit Includes 13 pairs of Die Sets - - Amazon.com
 

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for terminals i used these which i think most on here use
Amazon.com: Ampper Military Spec Battery Terminal End, Top Post Battery Terminal Set for Marine Car Boat RV and Vehicles (1 Pair) : Automotive

for the lugs i use these in varying sizes for the wire and connection size. "marine grade" is the normal key word for the tinned stuff on amazon
TKDMR 10pcs 1/0 Awg-3/8" Ring Marine Grade Copper Wire Lugs,with 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing,UL Battery Cable Ends,Heavy Duty Cable Lugs,Tinned Copper Eyelets,Tubular Ring Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

i also broke down and got a hydraulic crimper. so many less headaches, safer and more secure. and it pushed me into making better cables for my older cars too
Industrial Hydraulic Cable Lug Crimper 16TON 9 AWG to 600 MCM Electrical Terminal Cable Wire Tool Kit Includes 13 pairs of Die Sets - - Amazon.com
Looks like the same crimper I have. Only mines a different color
 

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Every lug supplier has different specs. The wall thickness varies from company to company, as well as style, and so do the dimensions of the crimping dies, square or hexagonal.

How the wall thickness can vary.

Wood Gas Cylinder Metal Pipe


For the cable setups I've made and the ones I will make for a video, I use products from Quick Cable. But I also use FTZ lugs, depending on the situation. Sometimes their lugs are a better fit for the application. If you've followed any of my videos on electrical, it's not a subject I take lightly. I can't pull any images as I'm reloading my MAC dedicated to the Powerstroke for about the 50th time.

Wood Rectangle Font Technology Circle


This is one of the best sites for the subject; I have two of the crimpers he mentions; FTZ 94284, AMP Rota-Crimp 600850 (which would be insane to buy today, it's triple the price), and one from Ancor.


Gas Cabinetry Tool Machine Drawer


As in their site, I've tried the hydraulic crimpers and don't care for them. I've not tried the new battery-powered crimpers used in solar applications.

This video says they have a good crimp; they don't, but it's close. It should look like solid copper.


Electric blue Wood Natural material Nail Metal
 
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