What are you using to check for codes?

Where is your ICP sensor located?

 

Where is your ICP sensor located?

I think it’s on the passenger side valve cover and I’ve took it to auto zone a couple times and ran the codes and it hasn’t shown any and I’ve took in to 3 shops and they have scanned it with one of their scan tools and it hasn’t shown anything but I haven’t checked the icp because I figured it would have thrown a code

 

I was asking about the ICP to see if your 04 was an early one (with the 03 engine) or a later one. You have the later 04 engine.

Do you have a way to measure the fuel pressure?

At least remove the secondary fuel filter from the bowl, remove any standing fuel, then have someone turn the key on (do not crank) to see how fast the fuel bowl fills. Be sure to have the person on the key ready to quickly turn it off when the bowl is almost full. Post up how long it took to fill the bowl. And watch for bubbles as it fills.

 

No I don’t have any way to measure fuel pressure I will check the fuel filter bowl tomorrow and see if it is filling up good I just took the icp sensor out and it is covered in oil

 

Did you clean the EBP tube as well? My Edge and other scanners didn’t detect an EBP code but ForScan did.

 

Yea I cleaned the tube and everything

 

I’ve had my own issue with doing the blue spring had to repeat that step more than once. By a fuel gauge verify only way I knew what was going on with that.


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What’s confusing me is there are no codes at all being thrown or pending I have checked the EBP sensor changed the MAP and the hose ICP sensor VGT sensor a new turbo it ain’t the EGR it’s deleted and I put new fuel filters in it a couple thousand miles ago if that I wish I had a way to check fuel pressure when WOT I’m going to check the fuel bowl and see how long it takes to fill up tomorrow like ole buddy said I put a blue spring kit on it at first hoping it would fix some of the issues

shortly after all the power and accelerate problems started happening it then started to struggle up hills and then shortly after that the high pressure oil pump went out and didn’t want to start replaced it and it seems like it got worse but after replacing some of these parts it has helped just a tad but it still slower than hell and don’t want to shift right

 

To start off this truck has a new turbo, warren injectors, ficm, fuel pump, pickup tube in the tank, Map sensor, IPR, ICP, EBP, and a new hpop. The truck still runs like crap but even worse on a cold start and acts like it’s not getting fuel. There’s air bubbles coming from the bottom of the fuel bowl with the key turned over. Waiting on a fuel pressure tester and cap. When it’s on a cold start it has a slight knock and zero power. It don’t want to shift and jerks and vibrates. After it warms up it gets a little better but still runs rough and goes to a lope at stop lights or stop signs or if you let it idle. I’ve been thru hell with this truck and refuse to sell it. It’s been down for over a year now and I’ve been pouring money into it getting it in good running condition and running out of ideas on what to do. Ive done all the work myself and have zero help. Somebody please help me figure this out so I can get my truck back. Thank you🙏🤝

 

Hopefully you haven't been installing aftermarket sensors and actuators. A percentage of those have been known to cause problems out of the box.

The air bubbles obviously need to be eliminated as your top priority.

Where did you buy the fuel pump? I assume it was just the pump and not the entire HFCM?

Bubbles can also come from the fuel pressure regulator. With all the parts installed, did you ever re-build that with the blue spring kit? It is important to install an OEM regulator kit.

Maybe it would narrow down the possibilities if you ran a hose from a bucket of diesel to the suction fitting of the HFCM and then see if that eliminated the bubbles when pumping.

 

>Key turned over??

Air bubbles when turning the engine over, or air bubbles with key-on and no starter engagement? Two separate issues.

Pete's (87crewdually) video.

 

I wasn't exactly sure what he meant by "bubbles with the key turned over".

 

I wasn't either.....

 

All my parts are real motorcraft parts. The injectors are sealing fine. The bubbles only form when you turn the key over but do not crank. I replaced the entire pump and I got it from autozone. I put a blue spring kit on it back a long time ago but I have done bubble test after installing the blue spring and never had a issue.

 

Another mechanic who seems to be pretty good at working on 6.0’s told me he would run a sump and new fuel lines to the pump to try and get rid of the aeration problem and then go from there.

 

If the pump is from Autozone it is NOT an OEM part.

Also, you are mixing words that makes it a bit hard for many of us to fully understand.

Replacing the "entire pump" for example........ you either replace the pump by itself, or you replace the entire HFCM. Saying you replaced the entire pump just doesn't clearly describe what you did. It may seem like nit-picking to you, but communication is all we have to go by in an on-line help forum.

Also, the key is turned on, or the key is turned to crank (that is where the engine "turns over"). I assume you mean that turning the key over is the same as turning it on, but it isn't common to see it described that way and it seems to be mixing terms.

I know it is all clear to you, but if it is a little cloudy to us, then it just gets in the way of us helping.

As I said - you don't know where the air is coming from. Running a sump wouldn't help the issue if it is at the regulator (o-rings) or the HFCM. Pumping through a hose (from a bucket) would quickly identify the "general" area of concern for the cost of a short section of hose and a hose clamp.

You can spend money guessing at things, or you can do some testing (essentially for free). Pretty much your two options.

 

Sounds like sucking air.

• Cap seal
• Quick connect seal (or not on fully); tank or inlet
• Cover seal
• Drain plug seal

As Mark said, putting a 3/8" hose on the HFCM inlet port and into a tank of diesel will tell if it's HFCM or behind it related.

 

I’ve been having a similar issue for about 2 years now. I have a late 03 early 04 6.0 lariat about 220K I’ve been building the truck for over a year now and I have replaced the Injectors, Ficm, ICP, ipr, ipr pigtail, the whole hfcm and pump, put a new pick up tube screen in the tank, new turbo, Map, dummy plugs, stand pipes, oil rails, new vacuum pump, hpop, EBP and everything. The last time I tore it down a while back was for a hot no start so I decided to replace the injectors at the same time which was already needed and do the hpop because I was sure it was weak. Put it all back together and still misses and shakes and runs rough mainly off a cold start and can’t figure it out to save the life of me. I’ve took it to 4-5 really good diesel mechanic’s I know around here and can’t nobody figure it out. I would damn near give my left nut to have my truck back to 100 percent.

 

I’ve took it to 4-5 really good diesel mechanic’s I know around here and can’t nobody figure it out. I would damn near give my left nut to have my truck back to 100 percent.

I’ve been having a similar issue for about 2 years now.

Whats wild is that I've put all your posts in one place to show you havent really even tried to fix it.

 

The last thing I did was replace the ICP pigtail on June 16th. 5 months and not a hiccup yet. (I probably just jinxed myself... 🤣)

-jokester

 

Agreed!

Not getting all the questions answered, and AutoZone parts. Makes it hard.