What needs to be done depends a bit on the model year. Also, a HUGE factor is if you buy new heads or not.

If I were doing this stuff again, I would buy new o-ringed heads.

 

05-07 model years, the styling and interior changes are what im after in that regard but later model years had some other improvements.
Who would you buy new heads from?

 

With new heads, an air cooled oil cooler, and three days in the shop, approaching $10 k is not unreasonable.

http://www.bulletproofdiesel.tv/Files/Magazine/FWRP-100900-STROKE.pdf

Not all level 3 are the same so it could be less both time and money wise. You might get an Edge monitor with fuel pressure and EGT, but not the EGT probe, or need brake work done when the truck is sent in.

 

Oh, and we know who "gorilla proofs" and many don't really care for the guy. He seems to have good mechanics at his shop though. Anyway, you don't need any fancy "individual cylinder management" IMO.

 

Good to know, the first ive ever heard of it is from someone I work with.

 

Any shop that knows what they're doing can tell you if you need new heads or not. Personally, I didn't do it because they told me they were in great condition.

$6700 is what it ran me at one of the best shops in the area (North Georgia).

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

Bill Hewitt, I believe.

If that's the right person I think he refers to it as "Dealer Proofing" now. (?)

 

Gotta say, I've gotten a lot of good info from that guy, like his video on how to backflush a 6.0 oil cooler.
However, the only reason I needed to backflush was because I followed his advice and used the Motorcraft gold coolant (actually the equivalent Zerex g05) when I put my rig together. <2 months later I had deltas in the 25-30 range, and sand in the bucket when I drained it out. Thanks for costing me $80 in coolant!
So, he's got a lot of good how-to videos, I'd just take what he says with a grain of salt.
Those guys are quite talented though. I think I saw where they did a cab-off head gasket job in about 10 hours...

 

stay away from Gorilla proofs cylinder management period...

Generally speaking for the best case scenario and emissions intact...

bulletproof egr cooler
bulletproof air cooler oil cooler conversion kit (no longer need to watch deltas) still need to make sure oil temps anot above 250 in extreme cases etc
arp head studs
o ringed KDD heads
various gaskets, labor nuts, n bolts etc

more like $12-13k but.... Thats 12-13k vs spending 40k plus on a used 2014 or newer 6.7l. So if your trucvk has another 10 yrs of life transmission/body wise its well worth the investment. But if the truck already has 250k plus on the u joints, body is rusting, etc it may be worth more to invest that in a newer truck. No one can make that decision except for you. PS home owner with a shop and patienc can install the oil cooler and minor stuff but the heads, studs are not something most can do correctly without help. You may be able to save some labor hours yourself.

 

Good to know, the heads ill definitely need help with but Ill be enlisting some help either way

I know I can pull the cab and strip everything off of the motor at the very least.
Im actually looking at Auction for one, because for a comparable miles 7.3 its still cheaper to get a 6.0 and bulletproof it, unless I need a whole block, or a trans.
Most CO trucks don’t get too much rust unless they have dings that broke paint but thats not a big deal to me; i may totally redo my subie to include new doors, 1/4 panels, liftgate and trim, roof, hood, fenders and both upper rails. All hail damage, some repairable some not.

 

People can't even agree on what bulletproofing is much less what can be a step further.

 

Meh people cant truly bulletproof is more the problem. Its a term that impies specific work... A bunch of people just throw it around to try and sell their problem child. ARP headstuds and a egr delete are not bulletproofed period. I don't think Bulletproof diesel ever trademarked anything but its a very specific as to the work before a truck is bulletproof. A truly bulletproofed 06-07 truck is really that. A studded and deleted 04 like my old f350 was not but it got by for the time I owned it.

 

They (BPD) had a big battle with IPR research over the term in years past. I thought that they won that battle, but not 100% sure due to how long ago it was.

 

Just plan on some good block surface prep, and I would do lifters also. Getting a low mileage truck would provide the best chance at a good cam IMO.

 

Here is Bullet Proof Diesel's take on the bulletproofing subject. I think the term has been so over-used through time that there will never be an agreed upon street definition. It can all be very misleading to the poor guy just trying to buy a truck. In many cases, I doubt if the sellers understand it themselves. Anyway, I think BPD says that having 4 of the 5 components qualifies as "bulletproofing":


So what does it truly mean - a Bullet Proof 6.0L?

A Bullet Proof 6.0L starts with getting educated on the 5 main pattern failures that occur with this engine. These pattern failures are:

OEM Oil Cooler - The OEM oil cooler is a common source of failure. The small coolant pathways within the oil cooler can become plugged and this, in turn, can lead to failed EGR coolers as well as hot, thin engine oil. Our solution is the BulletProof Engine Oil Cooler. Learn more: BulletProof Engine Oil Cooler

OEM EGR Cooler - The OEM EGR Cooler is often blamed for being "the problem" on the 6.0L engine. While it is a common failure item, it often fails because of the plugged coolant pathways in the oil cooler. Understanding WHY this item fails is an important aspect to owning and operating one of these engines. Our solution is the BulletProof EGR Cooler. Learn more: BulletProof EGR Cooler

Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) Power Supply - The FICM is the electronic unit that controls the injectors on the 6.0L/VT365 engine. The FICM controls the injectors by sending 48V to the injectors at precisely the right time. Over time, however, the power supply built into this module can become tired and see the output voltage drop below the specified 48V. As this voltage drops, the performance of the injectors (and therefore the entire engine) will suffer. Upgrading this power supply with the Bullet Proof Diesel version is the only long-term path to reliability. Our solution is the BulletProof FICM Power Supply. Learn more: BulletProof FICM Module

Head Studs - The 6.0L engine utilizes ten head bolts per cylinder head to affix the head to the engine. To help minimize blown head gaskets, companies such as American Racing Products (ARP) have developed head studs to replace the factory head bolts. For various engineering reasons, a head stud allows for a higher clamping force than a similar bolt does, thereby increasing the reliability by reducing the chance of a head gasket failure or stretched head bolt. We have complete head gasket kits available for you. Learn more: Complete Head Gasket Kits from Bullet Proof Diesel

The OEM Water Pump - The OEM water pump comes equipped with a plastic impeller. The pattern failure observed on this water pump is that a crack can develop within the impeller, greatly decreasing the amount of engine coolant that the pump is able to move throughout the engine. Our solution is the BulletProof Water Pump. Learn more: BulletProof Water Pump


Isn't an EGR delete and head studs the way to make a Bullet Proof 6.0?
This is a very common misconception, but the answer is NO.
First consider the EGR delete. As discussed above, the EGR cooler often fails not onto its own... that is to say, it doesn't fail "just because", rather, it fails because something else causes it to fail. That something (among other factors) is the heat that builds up within the EGR cooler because there is little to no coolant flow through the upstream oil cooler and therefore, no flow of coolant through the EGR cooler (downstream of the oil cooler). So the question really becomes - if the EGR cooler doesn't fail by itself, then what problem are you masking or ignoring by simply deleting the EGR cooler? Said another way, the failure of the EGR cooler is a sign, a symptom of other, bigger problems that need to be addressed, not ignored.
Another factor to consider with the EGR delete is that they are illegal in all fifty states. The EGR cooler is designed as part of the emissions system on the 6.0L engine. Deleting any portion of the emissions systems on a vehicle is strictly against federal law in most cases. Learn more here.
Again, a 6.0L is not a "Bullet Proof Diesel" engine unless four of the five pattern failures are addressed with genuine Bullet Proof Diesel parts. This includes the problematic OEM oil cooler as well as the FICM module, EGR cooler and water pump. Keep in mind that some businesses will promote the "Upgraded Oil Cooler" in a way to make it sound like the problems have been addressed with the original design. Click this link to learn more about the so-called "Upgraded Oil Cooler" and judge for yourself.

 

Awesome, thank you!

 

The more BPD parts you install on your truck the better off you'll be. I have spent quite a bit of money on my truck over the last ten years, and all the BPD items I installed have been just that, bulletproof and reliable.

 

Hey folks im back.
...

So, is anyone has done this more recently and has a price tag I would appreciate it.

Also, is there a sticky thread for a parts list?

I sold my 2017 for 50k and looked at the 2020 and thought I could rebuild the 2006 for half the cost. ha!
It was a bad idea IMHO. If you have a good base truck it might make sense to stud the heads but it's a
slippery slope. These are old trucks and you find things as you go. Here's what I've got into the project
so far. It's not a part / cost list but to give you an idea of what it could cost.

Basic Truck F250 Lariat CC SRW 4x4 SB... 8k
New Seat Covers 2k (on backorder)
Radio w/GPS and Speakers 2k
New Windshield, Rear Power Slider, Sunroof repair kit 1k
Upgraded Brakes/Suspension/Steering (stock) 8k
New Michellin Tires, used 20" rims 2k
Misc New and Junk Yard (door panels, seat track, elec switches, sunroof motor, etc) 1k
-----------------------------------------------
Subtotal 24k (vs a used one in very good condition for 18k)

Rebuilt Long Block (studs, o-ring head, fly cut pistons) 15k, not including labor
Aluminum Radiator/Intercooler/synth hoses 4k
Turbo/Injectors/Pipes/Hoses 5k
Fuel System / Reg Return 2.5k
New Battery/Alternator Cables/Misc 500 (on order, waiting to arrive)
Upgraded EGR/OIl Relocate/Coolant Filter 3k-5k (haven't decided yet between IPR and BPD)
Rebuilt trans, driveshaft, rear end 6k
Water pump (billet), steering pump, vacum 500
Gauge cluster refurb 200
Alignment, radius arms w/labor 1k+
Cab off motor install 3k
Aluminized Exhanst 500
Billet Flywheel 500
----------------------------------------------------------
Subtotal 40k
Net Total 65k

My original goal was to not spend more than 40k-45k but as I was putting so much into it I didn't want to go back and have to redo anything. This will be a local daily driver. I want to keep the EGR legal so will do the BPD EGR upgrade and add a catch can rather than delete.

It's been a project truck for the last year. Lots of new parts but also many trips to the junk yard to replace misc worn out parts. Last weekend I replaced the blown out rear dome bulbs and discovered it must have a short cuz the batteries drained overnight. Found a bad positive cable while charging. Haven't identified the battery drain for sure but very likely the rear dome light. Today I grabbed a rear view mirror and rear dome light at a junk yard for 30 but spent 40 in tolls and another 20 in gas back and forth. This sort of things add up and isn't capture into the total cost. Everything but the radius arm bushings, coil isolators and sway bar links has been replaced and the truck still wanders. I am waiting on OEM-fit covers from the seat shop and then the truck will go to spring/frame shop for radius arm bushings, isolators and alignment.

When the truck first arrived it leaked fuel and oil all over the driveway so I had it towed to a shop. In the meantime, while it was there, to get a jump on things, I bought a used 6.0 motor in Dallas and drove it back to the machine shop in the back of the tacoma (lol). The mechanic replaced the oil cooler and seals so it wasn't dumping fuel all over the driveway - those are indirect costs not included above. Turns out the existng motor was good - just everything bolted to it was worn out. It looks like the previous owner replaced the motor but didn't install a new oil cooler or gaskets. I wish I had known before I started rebuilding a motor but too late now. I haven't decided whether to put the rebuilt motor in or just keep the ones that is there now. After so much work, the rebuilt will probably go in and I expect to get maybe 3k for it which will cover the cab off motor swap labor (no way to do it myself w/o invoking the rath of the HOA).

 

Hey folks im back.
this is a question im pondering because, ive seen about a thousand different examples of a “bulletproofed” truck. In my case the EGR will need to stay put, unless its an easy to remove cab on thing for cleaning. Will a tune bypass the EGR?

ive also seen Gorilla proofing, which adds in individual cylinder management, whats the added cost there?

So, is anyone has done this more recently and has a price tag I would appreciate it. Both to be professionally done, and DIY (I work in a shop, its more motivation than anything for me); rough time estimate for time too please.

Also, is there a sticky thread for a parts list?

Just had my 07 6.0 bulletproofed. EGR cooler, air cooled oil cooler, new oil filtration, bulletproof alum water pump impeller, replace all injectors...$9k

 

Can you not back flush the oil cooler periodically to ensure it doesn't clog up and create the other problems? I have 100k on my '04 6.0 and was told it was "bulletproofed" when I bought it. It runs well and gets great fuel mileage. I want it to last for an extended period. How do I accomplish that?

 

This is a thread of its own, and has been probably been posted before. In my signature block is a back flush and there’s a procedure there and also any YouTUbe Vids.

I am not a fan of preventative main like you mentioned. Although I do maintenance on my truck, I don’t like it. For me, a preventative back flush would be more than its worth. If your Deltas are bad or approaching bad, by all means do it.

Early on, I clogged a perfectly good oil cooler by doing a preventative coolant flush (not Backflush.). I did this improperly, and I paid the price for my shortcuts. Too much potential to dislodge stuff and make a good oil cooler worst.

 

To be fair, he's been creating these videos for a long time and YouTube doesn't provide a great way for you to update.

I'm pretty sure that if you look at his more recent videos, you'll see that he uses ELC now.

Here's proof from 3 yrs ago..

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

To be fair, he's been creating these videos for a long time and YouTube doesn't provide a great way for you to update.

I'm pretty sure that if you look at his more recent videos, you'll see that he uses ELC now.

Here's proof from 3 yrs ago..

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

In this video, they fall short of saying that the Ford Gold coolant is the #1 cause of plugged oil coolers. It is really that bad and it just isn't emphasized. Bill was emailed as early as 2008 about the Gold coolant issues and he never mentioned it in his videos. He caused a lot of people to plug their oil coolers. In fact, he said the Gold coolant was polypropylene, lol. This caused issues also. Lastly, he also had a video where he stated to use the wrong transmission fluid (he said our trucks use Mercon V - sad! I mean come on - the information is in the manuals!). Again - quite a few people took his advice and had problems.

Regarding this video, I don't believe that the 6.OL manuals ever stated that SCA's had to be added as this video states. I believe the manuals state that it is not to be used. I guess I will have to go back and 100% verify this. Edit - just verified it. Absolutely no recommendation to use SCAs.

I agree, that some videos (maybe even most) are very good. For me, I saw so many posts from folks that were negatively impacted, and not just for a few months of even a few years. It was for a LOT of years.

My opinion was set over these issues. You kinda had to be there and be involved in them to get a true feel for it.

YMMV.

 

What does Bulletproofing really cost?

Based on people coming back after buying a Bulletproofed truck, it depends on how many times it gets done.

The problem as I see it is people depend on certain products, but to me, the reality is the quality of the workmanship as much if not more than the products.

 

Hey folks im back.
this is a question im pondering because, ive seen about a thousand different examples of a “bulletproofed” truck. In my case the EGR will need to stay put, unless its an easy to remove cab on thing for cleaning. Will a tune bypass the EGR?

ive also seen Gorilla proofing, which adds in individual cylinder management, whats the added cost there?

So, is anyone has done this more recently and has a price tag I would appreciate it. Both to be professionally done, and DIY (I work in a shop, its more motivation than anything for me); rough time estimate for time too please.

Also, is there a sticky thread for a parts list?

Everyone has their story to tell, especially about 6.0L diesels. This is mine- I have about 134k miles and was looking at a truck that could barely get out of its own way. My wife and I use the truck to haul and two, not a flashy Sunday driver. I have do e a lot of research regarding the unreliability of this engine and decided to check into Bullet proofing. I live in So. Cal and BulletProof is in Arizona. Their website shows preferred installers and one of them is about 7 miles from my home. I had already installed the EGR cooler and a Garrett Turbo when it left my wife and friend stranded about 210 miles from home with horses in tow. I brought my truck to Domestic Diesel and Auto Service. They came back with 3 bad injectors and fuel in the coolant. The injectors were kind of expected, the fuel in the coolant pointed to major engine issues. I settled on buying a Ford remanufactured engines (5C3Z6006DARM) If you want to look it up. All I had left to add to the motor was my BP EGR cooler, a different fan clutch and the external oil cooler (I did not do the oil cooler as it may have voided the 2 year unlimited mileage warrant from Ford). I use an Edge monitor (Large analog display for my wife with engine coolant/oil temp, battery voltage and trans oil temp, more detailed display for when I am driving) and can easily see how this motor can self destruct if left up to the dash guages. I had also replaced the FICM power supply shortly after getting the monitor because my injector voltage was around 32v, at its best. If you want a price and better idea of what is involved in Bullet proofing, I strongly suggest going to the source and research it. Bullet-Proof Your Ford 6.0L. I also recommend looking up dieseltechron on YouTube and watch his videos. My truck runs great now, I do not use my tuner on it and I do not let coolant temp rise over 225 degrees. I hope this helps. My engine was pulled and they did not pull the cab from the truck and it cost me 15 grand.

 

Everyone has their story to tell, especially about 6.0L diesels. This is mine- I have about 134k miles and was looking at a truck that could barely get out of its own way. My wife and I use the truck to haul and two, not a flashy Sunday driver. I have do e a lot of research regarding the unreliability of this engine and decided to check into Bullet proofing. I live in So. Cal and BulletProof is in Arizona. Their website shows preferred installers and one of them is about 7 miles from my home. I had already installed the EGR cooler and a Garrett Turbo when it left my wife and friend stranded about 210 miles from home with horses in tow. I brought my truck to Domestic Diesel and Auto Service. They came back with 3 bad injectors and fuel in the coolant. The injectors were kind of expected, the fuel in the coolant pointed to major engine issues. I settled on buying a Ford remanufactured engines (5C3Z6006DARM) If you want to look it up. All I had left to add to the motor was my BP EGR cooler, a different fan clutch and the external oil cooler (I did not do the oil cooler as it may have voided the 2 year unlimited mileage warrant from Ford). I use an Edge monitor (Large analog display for my wife with engine coolant/oil temp, battery voltage and trans oil temp, more detailed display for when I am driving) and can easily see how this motor can self destruct if left up to the dash guages. I had also replaced the FICM power supply shortly after getting the monitor because my injector voltage was around 32v, at its best. If you want a price and better idea of what is involved in Bullet proofing, I strongly suggest going to the source and research it. Bullet-Proof Your Ford 6.0L. I also recommend looking up dieseltechron on YouTube and watch his videos. My truck runs great now, I do not use my tuner on it and I do not let coolant temp rise over 225 degrees. I hope this helps. My engine was pulled and they did not pull the cab from the truck and it cost me 15 grand.

One other problem that I do not believe is addressed with the folks at Bullet Proof is the problem with the cold air compressor tubes blowing off when you are under load and kicking 20 psi of turbo boost. I replaced mine with a HPS upgrade. No more blown intake tube!

HPS intercooler hot charge pipe cold side 03-07 Ford F250 Superduty Powerstroke 6.0L Diesel Turbo silicone boots hoses

HPS intercooler intake hot charge pipe cold side 03-07 Ford F250 Superduty Powerstroke 6.0L Diesel Turbo replaces OEM weak silicone hoses boost tube 17-105 17-145

hpsperformanceproducts.com

 

Those are nice, but If you set your CAC tubes up correctly from the get go (oil free boots and surfaces, brake kleen and hair spray) and tighten them correctly you won't ever have that issue.

I am not a big fan of the brace and it is not needed, if you have high quality boots that offer more rigidity than the OEM junk. That brace will ruin your boot from the engine torque pulling on the lower right CAC boot IMO.

I have been running Riff Raff boots for 8 yrs without one issue.

 

Research that I did indicated that the most vulnerable boot is the one attached to the turbo due to the heat passed. That is the only boot I have had issues with. I have tried two replacements, with clamps. One was installed by Ford technician and the other installed by me with a pair stored under the driver seat. This brace helps keep the "push off" stress from that boot. The bottom boot you mentioned has a lot of flex space. I am happy to pull my loaded truck up Devote without having to worry about turbo pressure, keeps me out of the slow truck lane too. Thanks for your feedback.

 

Good luck with that reman......

 

Hopefully FORD got their $h*t together on this one, I read some horror stories from this guy 👆

 

I've had mine for a year and about 25k miles, good for my use so far. I am not praising the design of this engine, just sharing my experience done to keep it on the road and off a tow! IH should have stayed with off highway construction equipment. Replacing the truck is just not in my budget until the car and RV are payed off. The Powermax Garrett Turbo has done me well forore than 5 years, the reman FICM power supply out puts 48-49 volts consistently. The coolant filter is for the coolant issues. But the best is the Edge guages that lets me watch engine vitals. Next year when the warranty expires, I will look into the air cooled oil cooler kit from BulletProof. I just think if you have enough engine movement that the intake tube brace is a problem, you may need to revisit your motor mounts. Just my thoughts.

 

Jack is a resource we frequently need but don't often deserve: His Experience.

 

Well said!! He's really quite amazing. LOL, I have to admit - he is so knowledgeable that I have to watch his videos a number of times to fully understand what he's up to!! Good Stuff!!

 

I know people said they had boots and pipes blow off on these things but I never had anything blow off besides the tanks on the intercooler after I put my KC stage 2 on there. I never had boot problems and was towing very heavy often enough I think I would have had issues. I would say Joe Blow is right before I would go buy a different pipe set unless I just wanted some engine bling.

 

My reman was built when CAT owned the company in 2010.

The lineage was an International owned engine rebuilding division called "ReNEW". It was sold to a private investment group headed by Mike Jarvis in 1983, which renamed the company Franklin Power Products, located in Frankin, IN. He sold the company to Delco-Remy in 1996. Delco-Remy sold the division to CAT Reman in 1/2007. The operation was selling reman engines to Ford, General Motors, Navistar, and Mercruiser.

Frankin Power Products also bought Findlay Diesel in 1987, and in 1996 it became the exclusive supplier to Ford for reman diesel engines, blocks, diesel pumps, including HPOP with the Delco-Remy takeover. They also supplied reman fuel and HPOP pumps to International, Caterpillar, Detroit Diesel, and Cummins.

 

Wow, no idea why people still buy these trucks. $12 grand to bullet proof and old truck! You can buy decent old trucks with much better motors for $15- 25K all day! Who can afford to have their truck down for that long?