I did my head gaskets back in July of 2019. I had a weak #2 injector, I bought a rebuilt from Warren Diesel, replaced it, Truck ran great. The injector started to fail 100 miles ago and now it's toast. I gotta tear down the passenger side. I'm not a happy camper. Just a heads up guys. The next injector is gonna be a Motorcraft factory rebuilt. Starting on this tonight. 6 month warranty expired in January.
Xalky
motorcraft has been the name in the game for a while now.
however, warren has carried a respected name with the 6.0 platform. id contact them.
however, warren has carried a respected name with the 6.0 platform. id contact them.
You're right. I wasn't asking for help, I already knew what was wrong with it. I've had this truck for 5 yrs, I've had it apart many times. A hard plumbed fuel pressure guage is a good idea and I've been wanting to do it, but between forscan and the edge monitor and my cell phone with the torque app, I didn't consider it a priority considering that I already have the blue spring upgrade.
I had a shorted injector coil after ~ 15k miles. I don't have the thread handy, but it was ultimately my FICM that took it out. It is hard to believe since most of the time, the FICM will take out a bank, two opposite etc....not just one.....but it did. My alternator was overcharging and was messing with the power in to the logic board.......headache of a month but I figured it out.
I sent it back, they confirmed it was shorted and it cost me less than 100.00 to have it rebuilt.
They are a good company, so don't write them off just yet IMO.
Joe
I sent it back, they confirmed it was shorted and it cost me less than 100.00 to have it rebuilt.
They are a good company, so don't write them off just yet IMO.
Joe
Call them and explain what the issue is. They will ask you several questions to get to the right diagnostic/repair path, including looking at your purchase date etc.
They will take care of you and even if it costs you a bit of money, it won't be much unless it was flat out negligence etc.
Good Luck
They will take care of you and even if it costs you a bit of money, it won't be much unless it was flat out negligence etc.
Good Luck
Come to think of it, they asked me if I was using a particular oil but I don't recall what brand.
Why is the T6 an issue?
Why is the T6 an issue?
IDK ? maybe Because they needed an excuse for failures ? and so many people run T6 it was an easy bet they would be able to point the finger and the oil and not at the failed injector
I ran T6 for years and years for the record without injector issues ( I don't buy Warren )
I ran T6 for years and years for the record without injector issues ( I don't buy Warren )
Old thread linked below. The whole issue of blaming T6 set my "alarms" off. Well, that and there was this claim(stated several times) by a customer that they stated that they built Casserly's injectors for him. probably not true, but hmmm.
www.powerstroke.org
www.powerstrokenation.com
There is a similar thread blaming T6 on PSN I believe it was. Just didn't save the link to that one.
I have links to 10+ threads of issues with their injectors, but they generally made good on their warranty.
I agree that bad installation can be a nightmare to a parts supplier. It is just that I have not seen the same number of issues with Holder's injectors or Full Force injectors.
Just my opinion, and probably worth only as much as any other internet opinion.
Rotella T6 oil??
Ok. So i was talking to a rep about a warrantly claim for an injector with Warren Diesel and she advised me not to run the Rotella T6 oil cause its to thin and causes issues with the spool valve in the injectors. So here is my questions. Has anybody else had any dealings with this? I just...
www.powerstroke.org
Injector failure again!
Had new injectors "155cc" put in back in October and today had at least one fall. I have an oil bypass kit, a fass fuel pump on the way what else can I do to save my injectors? I run stanadyne additive in my fuel. I can't keep replacing injectors something's gotta give. Please all input is...
www.powerstrokenation.com
There is a similar thread blaming T6 on PSN I believe it was. Just didn't save the link to that one.
I have links to 10+ threads of issues with their injectors, but they generally made good on their warranty.
I agree that bad installation can be a nightmare to a parts supplier. It is just that I have not seen the same number of issues with Holder's injectors or Full Force injectors.
Just my opinion, and probably worth only as much as any other internet opinion.
Here is the PSN thread. It has a lot of trash talk in it, but one of Warren's advocates quoted Jesse in post #39. The quote goes like this:
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"This came straight out of Jesse Warren's mouth. I'll voice it in my own words though. I will have him physically type it for me when I see him on Saturday.
5-40 is bad on the spool valves because it is so thin. It shears, and looses its ability to properly lubricate the spool valve. Since its metal on metal, this gouges and messes up the valve to whereas it cannot slide properly from one solenoid to the other.
Now, he did say that in USED injectors, where the whole injector and spool valve has had damage already, synthetic is fine, obviously since the damage is already done.
But, anyone out there who gets his updated solenoids/spool valve MUST run 15-40 "
www.powerstrokenation.com
LOL - 5W40 oil is too thin, but yet 10W30 is ok and so is 15W40 ......
All oils shear btw. I have quite a bit of data on that and it takes a long time for Rotella T6 to shear down to what a 10W30 starts at. Now granted a 5W40 will typically shear faster than a 15W40 - just by nature of the additives.
Anyway 250k miles on my original injectors and no damage yet. I have used 5W40 since 10k miles and original injectors still doing well!
.
"This came straight out of Jesse Warren's mouth. I'll voice it in my own words though. I will have him physically type it for me when I see him on Saturday.
5-40 is bad on the spool valves because it is so thin. It shears, and looses its ability to properly lubricate the spool valve. Since its metal on metal, this gouges and messes up the valve to whereas it cannot slide properly from one solenoid to the other.
Now, he did say that in USED injectors, where the whole injector and spool valve has had damage already, synthetic is fine, obviously since the damage is already done.
But, anyone out there who gets his updated solenoids/spool valve MUST run 15-40 "
Time to try some 10w30 oil
I've been doing so MORE reading about oils. I'm going to try out the Mobil 10W30 since I have found a local oil company that can get the oil. It's not much of a cost savings overall. It's more about seeing if it makes any real difference in the motor. I'm a firm believer in your motor tells...
www.powerstrokenation.com
LOL - 5W40 oil is too thin, but yet 10W30 is ok and so is 15W40 ......
All oils shear btw. I have quite a bit of data on that and it takes a long time for Rotella T6 to shear down to what a 10W30 starts at. Now granted a 5W40 will typically shear faster than a 15W40 - just by nature of the additives.
Anyway 250k miles on my original injectors and no damage yet. I have used 5W40 since 10k miles and original injectors still doing well!
Shear is not so much of an oil problem as it is for the polymer that makes up the rest of the lubricant mixture, in multi viscosity lubricants
The first number in an oil designation is the only real oil in the mix(dead dinosaur era)
the W is for Winter -- has to do with the grade selection of the oil part -- so basically on the thinner side of the designation
The last part of the number is the polymer that gives the increase in viscosity as the lubricant is heated
So, ...15W40 acts like a 15 weight winter oil when cold and a 40 weight when heated -- all caused by the 'curling' or 'kinking' of the polymer molecules
When the multi viscosity lubricant is used in an engine, especially the HEUI system, the oil is put under stress that will cause the molecular strings of the polymer to "shear" and break into smaller strings
After a period of time the broken strings can actually cause increased wear on engine parts
The first number in an oil designation is the only real oil in the mix(dead dinosaur era)
the W is for Winter -- has to do with the grade selection of the oil part -- so basically on the thinner side of the designation
The last part of the number is the polymer that gives the increase in viscosity as the lubricant is heated
So, ...15W40 acts like a 15 weight winter oil when cold and a 40 weight when heated -- all caused by the 'curling' or 'kinking' of the polymer molecules
When the multi viscosity lubricant is used in an engine, especially the HEUI system, the oil is put under stress that will cause the molecular strings of the polymer to "shear" and break into smaller strings
After a period of time the broken strings can actually cause increased wear on engine parts
Interesting stuff for sure.
I bought Warren under recommendation from Charlie (KC) and assumed they'd last me.
So far so good, aside from the short I had caused by my overcharging alternator months ago.As I mentioned they rebuilt it for next to nothing and I was back on the road in no time.
I bought Warren under recommendation from Charlie (KC) and assumed they'd last me.
So far so good, aside from the short I had caused by my overcharging alternator months ago.As I mentioned they rebuilt it for next to nothing and I was back on the road in no time.
IMO - They would not still be in business if they didn't sell a product that was reliable for most of their customers.
It would be worth asking what their "current" stance was on T6, or 5W40 in general.
I have quite a bit of data on the Mobil 1 TDT and Mobil Delvac 1 5W40 oils, and a little on Rotella T6. The Mobil oils shear at a slower rate, but even the T6 does fine to 5k miles (which is where most folks seem to change their oil).
It would be worth asking what their "current" stance was on T6, or 5W40 in general.
I have quite a bit of data on the Mobil 1 TDT and Mobil Delvac 1 5W40 oils, and a little on Rotella T6. The Mobil oils shear at a slower rate, but even the T6 does fine to 5k miles (which is where most folks seem to change their oil).
I agree with you Mark and it very well might be a proprietary issue with their spool valves.
All I know is that I do not want to tear my truck apart AGAIN for along time! LOL
All I know is that I do not want to tear my truck apart AGAIN for along time! LOL
Havent been in a 6.0l for a few years but a good friend just replaced his hpop. The builder asked that he run a 15w-40 if he could for the same reason said at higher load thinner oil did not perform as well. Now im no oil engineer by any means but I feel there is some truth to the issues associated with 5w. Heck I ran it and liked it but... with my 1999 7.3l it was too thin. I burned nearly 4 quarts in 4500 miles. On regular 15w-40 and synthetic 15w-40 I was back to my 1-1.5quarts of oil every 5k.
If I can find it I feel i was probably one of the first to post a thread here about rotella new t6 15w-40 when I found it at walmart but shells website had ZERO info on it. So I sent an email and a week later I got a call from a rotella rep. (blew my mind lol). In a nutshel he said the t6 oil have never been "very" popular at least compared to says of T4 and T5 oil because so many people felt it was too thin and it did burn/leak or whatever the term was to loose oil in so many customers that they formulated the newer t6 15w-40 full synthetic (it even says reduced oil consumption on the bottle). So while i don't really know if 5w-40 hurts anything an oil manufacturer got enough complaints and acknowledges diesel owners reported having to add more oil than usual so they came out with the 15w-40 and saw sales shoot up to the point its been little hard to find 4 gallons at once. I want to be clear I don't feel it causes catostraphic damage like using a 5w-30 car oil in an old cat bulldozer but maybe, just maybe there is some merit to the 15w-40 for certain applications?
If I can find it I feel i was probably one of the first to post a thread here about rotella new t6 15w-40 when I found it at walmart but shells website had ZERO info on it. So I sent an email and a week later I got a call from a rotella rep. (blew my mind lol). In a nutshel he said the t6 oil have never been "very" popular at least compared to says of T4 and T5 oil because so many people felt it was too thin and it did burn/leak or whatever the term was to loose oil in so many customers that they formulated the newer t6 15w-40 full synthetic (it even says reduced oil consumption on the bottle). So while i don't really know if 5w-40 hurts anything an oil manufacturer got enough complaints and acknowledges diesel owners reported having to add more oil than usual so they came out with the 15w-40 and saw sales shoot up to the point its been little hard to find 4 gallons at once. I want to be clear I don't feel it causes catostraphic damage like using a 5w-30 car oil in an old cat bulldozer but maybe, just maybe there is some merit to the 15w-40 for certain applications?
Oem – Reconditioned Oem spool valve with tested used wires 6 month warranty.
New – New WDI spool valve with tested used wires 1 year warranty
Premium - New WDI spool valve & solenoid 2 year warranty
So if i understand correctly you bought the cheapest injector they sell which reuses the spool valve and wires-electrical stuff. If it does not click it would make me think it is electrical problem most likely which is probably caused by the reused parts. Its kind of like buying the cheapest reman starter/alternator/ac compressor or a new one. Electrical is funny sometimes, just because it tests good does not always mean it is going to last. Sometimes they go out quickly but the rest of the time they last for years with no issues. Personally I try to never sell the OEM because of the used spool valves, They are coils of wires in hot oil and that has to take its toll eventually. But if thats what the customers wants or can afford they are an option and work most of the time for years, that may be the reason for the shorter warranty period. I would think the premium would be the about the same as buying a ford reman, hopefully improved but do not know that for a fact. Just my .02
New – New WDI spool valve with tested used wires 1 year warranty
Premium - New WDI spool valve & solenoid 2 year warranty
So if i understand correctly you bought the cheapest injector they sell which reuses the spool valve and wires-electrical stuff. If it does not click it would make me think it is electrical problem most likely which is probably caused by the reused parts. Its kind of like buying the cheapest reman starter/alternator/ac compressor or a new one. Electrical is funny sometimes, just because it tests good does not always mean it is going to last. Sometimes they go out quickly but the rest of the time they last for years with no issues. Personally I try to never sell the OEM because of the used spool valves, They are coils of wires in hot oil and that has to take its toll eventually. But if thats what the customers wants or can afford they are an option and work most of the time for years, that may be the reason for the shorter warranty period. I would think the premium would be the about the same as buying a ford reman, hopefully improved but do not know that for a fact. Just my .02
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