So I'm old school....and I just don't feel comfortable greasing wheel hubs with a grease gun (other than my tractors). Why? Well eventually too much grease has to go somewhere and usually that means blowing past the seals. So I prefer the method of manually packing a bearing and calling it good. When I pack bearings, I clean the hubs/bearings first with solvent to get all the old grease out. I don't like mixing grease especially for high speed wheel hubs. Yes, old school and I'm a purest. lol

But....if you are headed in that direction....I wouldn't do but a few pumps and be sure to use a grease that is meant for high heat applications.

 

Understood , I haven't had the hubs off for a year . The last time I tried to pack them( using finger power ) without trying to disassemble them . I'm going to take your advice and maybe give them 2 pumps each time I rotate the tires . This would be
obviously a ever increasing volume over time . This mite be a no win situation in the long run as if you have good seals then
where can the old grease go , but loose it's cleanliness as the bearings wear out ?
Thanks for your reply .

 

the ABS adapters are neat but u only need a rubber tipped grease gun adapter you can find them anyplace

it's best to have the unit bearing out you can expel and discard the old nasty stuff otherwise your pumping it into the hub cavity

first time i did it on my 06 i put over ten pumps of a large frame grease gun in to the Timken until the old grease started to come out

if your set on doing it assembled i would say 6-10 pumps but you should feel the resistance when the old stuff starts pushing past the unit bearing seal

 

Thanks guys , I will heed your advice .

 

jd you can't take a unit bearing apart to clean so this is the only way to add / change grease

technically it's lubed for life but i have to think my adding grease to mine has added to their life I am at 120k on the OEM and have had large tires on it all it's life

that and I have a brand new pair of Timkens in the garage so maybe thats why my old ones aren't failing kinda like carrying a spare tire LOL

 

use the proper grease and not anything with graphite

I can't remember what was suggested as a close match it was a red grease

I will see if i can find it

 

I think i used CRC's sta lube sta plex because I think it was suggested to use a multi-purpose certified lithium complex based NLGI #2

harbor freight actually sells it 14 Oz Sta-Lube® Sta-Plex® Extreme Pressure Premium Red Grease

 

Although I Love Riff Raff and their products, and ordering from them as they are only a state away, I don't understand why these fittings all of a sudden are making a topic and thread comeback. First off, seals are NOT meant to be "pushed passed". It flexes them the opposite direction of the sealing surface. Second these are lubed for life assembly's. I have customers with 300k+ on their stockers NEVER having greased them, while running 35's or bigger, and I have people that smoke through them in 50k (although these are usually the cheap replacements). When it comes to a Hub assembly you definitely get what you pay for. The Timken's (HANDS DOWN) are the way to go. I would put the SKF's second, but I have NEVER had to warranty or replace a Timken assembly in a superduty. Look into bernelling a bearing and you will see what these have to put up with when one hits a pothole at 50mph, or jumps a truck having fun. I guess I view this as a worthless and waste of time "maintenance" procedure, but I also run and recommend archoil and there are people here that think that's a waste......so 6 of 1 I guess. I more or less like the fact that forcing a grease or fluid out of a seal is just kinda ignored like it wont effect anything, just to make someone think they are prolonging something......to each their own I guess.

 

I like Riff Raff as well but this is all u need

i watched the nasty dirty ( not red anymore ) grease expel and could tell there was a lot of air ( non lubing air lol ) in the cavity also at 80,ooo

the seal in no way had an issue expelling the grease it was a uniform pattern without drama just like any seal i have pushed grease past before

i have no problems recommending this but i don't preach it
i know plenty of guys with unit bearings that didn't make it to 100,000

I am now going on 120,000 so even if it was a "waste of time" (4 minutes)
it did not hurt IMO

sure wish i could have as easily lubed my "lubed for life" u joints that were dry as a bone at 110,000 when i replaced them as a PM item before they failed

pics of an o6 ( slightly different than an 04 )

Timkens are the only choice IMO although 1A auto has a good warranty on their off brand they also extend the Timken to a Lifetime

 

there is no way as a Shop I would sell this as a service

because as soon as you add grease that is your baby now

but for the DIY guy there has been no ill effects from what I have seen

 

Just saw this post and reminded me I wanted to agree with it and add to it.....or really explain WHY I deceide on some of these posts to play devils advocate.....

I have now (been counting) been yelled at 3 times by "owners" (because I cant call them customers) about not PROPERLY changing oil in these HEUI trucks because I DONT drain or evac the HPO system........geee where did they hear this bull chit from??? Oh yah that's right.....thanks Bill:doh: I have also been yelled at by a "6.0 mechanic" that I don't stock coolant filters but claim to be specialized in the 6.0/6.4 platforms as the coolant filter "PREVENTS the HG issues one these". I am so gawd damn tired of these random "preventive maintenance" bull chit procedures and wanna be home brew "mechanics" that I want to go on a shooting spree for dumb people!! That is why I chime in on some of these with a "negative" perspective. Its more so to just add some common sense and maybe STOP a banwagon of crap from starting.....

I will add that the gear oil in the hub assembly thing is just stupid!! You might as well also drain your engine oil and run tranny fluid to lubricate the engine.

Poundsign: nostictionorarchoilneeded....

 

And that is exactly why most shops wont PM... they only service what they were asked to service.

 

SO...what is this about?
Ya pull out the ABS sensor and pump grease into the hub?
If so this sounds promising.
I have done several of the modular wheel bearings...not a hard job but kind of pricey.
Can someone give a "how to" on this please.

 

it should be a easy google search with more info than i could spend the rest of the day typing up
just so Patriot could give me crap about my Gramma he doesn't like my Gramma

 

Remove wheel and tire
Remove Caliper
Remove rotor
Remove ABS sensor
Install Riff Raff adapter or rubber tipped grease gun
Grease until you see fit.....
Install all removed component's and do burnouts!!

 

This is happening sometime this week especially the burnout part LOL

 

PowerStrokeArmy - View Single Post - Front hub assembly replacement ??'s

 

I'm not sure about forcing greasee into the hubs.... but I do put left over 75w-90 syn in my hubs through the ABS hole. I don't put much. Probably 5oz. I have probably done it twice.

 

there is no gear oil in the unit bearing to begin with
so I don't think i would be adding any ??
I would expect it to breakdown the actual wheel bearing grease ?

did you just come up with that on your own or did you read about it ?

 

hey Toren please tell me you have a tally on the office wall of people who have yelled at you because they've watched too many Bill video's

 

NO!!

That would be too depressing to look at every morning when I get to work....I would shoot myself!!

Honestly those 4 are the only real ones that I remember because of how stupid the conversation was....Me trying to explain logically why I don't drain or crank the HPO system dry, and them cutting me off and citing good ol' Bills cult bull chit. The coolant filter guy is the "mechanic" for a big logging company in town that runs a fleet of 6.0's. That company has burned all the diesel shop bridges around and isn't a company I would want to do business with anyway, so if that's all it took to walk them I am happy really.

 

I add archoil to my bearings to help eliminate them sticking .... :wink:

(Just kidding Toren!)

 

I use Archoil in my bearings too; Archoil 8200 :grin:

 

Um, it's Opie. What do I win?

 

A free preview of season 10 - Trailer park boys or death by " Bugaloo " .
Also does this mean spelling " Buttweet " is wrong .:grin::grin:

 

Ordering a Riff Raff ABS adapter for greasing the front wheel bearings
on my 04'. How many pumps of grease should be applied ? I assume
the stroke on most guns probably shoot the same amount .

hello I have the same adapter I was wondering if you had experienced any ABS fault lights after greasing the front hubs? thanks for your help

 

YEP !! shortly after doing this the grease flung all over the ABS sensor and "on" came the ABS light. So I removed & cleaned up the sensor tip . Light off for a short while and back it came. So I.unplugged the relay in the fuse box and it has been unplugged and ABS deactiviated for a few years now...and light is still on....with a nice pc of electrical tape hiding it from view.. next time i have my wheels off I might clean off the tip and reinstall the ABS relay and see if it functions properly.
I believe this idea of greasing would be fine for a non-ABS truck but not ours.

 

ABS sensor is in a grease cavity it can be buried in grease by design
"flinging grease on a sensor" is not the issue

where people go wrong is by using the wrong grease like post #7 warns against or the bearing is failing and metal is present and contaminating the grease and giving false readings

i have greased the ABS port till full in ABS unit bearings using red grease
and no issues ever Riff Raff sells the ABS port grease fitting not that I use it but that should tell you that problems are not common