I know you said to keep this limited to those that have used that unkown brand (and good luck with that), but seriously..for the amount of work it is to replace the balljoints..why try to "cheap out" on it? I completely understand shopping around for parts, but these parts aren't that cheap to replace again (especially if you have a 4x4).

As an edit: You may even want to take a look at the Motorcraft/Ford balljoints also. Think how long they lasted the first time...and then think if the aftermarket ones could do better.

If you are replacing balljoints and have a 4x4:
You should seriously consider replacing the u-joints on the front axles at this time. The u-joints wear pattern is limited to the typical turning radius that they see. When the knuckle is removed, the u-joint will flex beyond that area. Once this happens (speaking from experience) your u-joints will not last very long at all.

You will need knuckle seals (sold each, need 2, part number 5C3Z-3254-AA) and o-rings (sold each, need 2, part number 5C3Z-4A322-AA).

This would be a good time to rid yourself from the "hula hoops" that are typically on the front axle tube as a result of failed axle tube dust seals (see first pic below).
There is a new(er) upgraded axle tube dust seal that Ford came out with in the last couple years that FINALLY address the problem that made them fail so easily/frequent.
The new dust seal is part number AC3Z-1S175-A (sold each, need 2).
You have to make sure that, whoever installs these seals, remove the rust on the axle shafts before pushing the axle through the seal (or the rust will act as an abrasive and tear into your new seal).

First, the typical seal failure:

Now the upgraded part (installed):

 

NYC, thanks for the good reply. I am thinking I will probably just buy the moogs, the reason behind this is I have spent the last few hours looking up how-to change the ball joints and its a bit more involved then other cars I have owned. I have replaced a few dozen ball joints but usually it has been on cars or trucks with CV axles (or halfshafts, whatever you want to call them) and you can just disconnect it from the hub and push the CV out of the way, pretty quick and painless. Now that I see this is a bit more time involved and you have to remove the hubs and how the axles come out. I am going for longevity over price. If it was an easier replacement I would probably go with the cheaper parts.

I am still interested in hearing if anyone uses these, but I will not be.

I now know I will also need 2 new "yellow o-rings" and dust seals (2 different kinds, each side)

I will probably but the moog setup from Amazon, now just shopping around for them seals.

 

I see now that you may be talking about your 2000 Excursion, (I didn't pay attention to your signature). I assumed you had the 05-up 4x4 system, and I am not sure if those part numbers would be the same for you. Please verify before purchase.

 

I do believe it is a different part number, but appreciate your input none the less

 

For what it is worth my Moog ball joints didn't hold up well at all. My XRF joints have been far superior and were much cheaper.

 

My XRF balljoints did not last 30,000 miles. Had to replace all 4 of them. Went with MOOG problem savers 2 years ago. No problems.

 

1978 Ford Ranchero----Ultra-power tie rod ends. Should Grease zerts be installed on new units before installing on vech? If so what is the procedure?