Won't communicate or no power to the OBDII port?

-jokester

 

There isn't any power to the OBDll port. I finally got the truck to crank and found the oil guage showing 0. I checked the oil and it's fine.

Thanks for your quick response Jokester!

 

Check fuse #12 (cigar lighter fuse - 20 AMP mini fuse). You can also verify that the cigar lighter works or doesn't work.
If it doesn't work, verify that you have B+ (battery voltage) to pin #16 of the DLC (Data Link Connector - OBDII port). This terminal should be powered at ALL times.

If fuse #22 is ok and pin #16 of the DLC has power, then check fuse #22. It is the fuse on the power supply to the PCM (provides power with the key n the "run" position). If fuse 22 is good, check the power to fuse 22. Note that the Fan clutch, IPR valve, GPCM, EGR actuator, and the MAF sensor all receive power from fuse 22. You can check power at these locations (RED wire).

Verify grounds (continuity or resistance), body ground is at pin #4 of the DLC and sensor ground at pin #5 of the DLC.

 

Thanks Bismic

 

The only problem with blown fuses is that something probably caused it to blow. Duh, right? That said, I have had VERY VERY few fuses that failed due to age or poor workmanship. Water intrusion, some bad wiring somewhere, or a component in the circuit with an internal short has been far more common.

 

When mine lost power, it was because I was using my small inverter plugged into the cig lighter. Unbeknownst to me, the inverter had an internal short which took out the fuse.

This is why I asked if it just wasn't communicating or if it had no power.

-jokester

 

I don't think I have ever seen the word "unbeknownst" written out ......
Looked German at first .

 

lol ok we have changed the fuse. It was a mini and had to go to town and get 25 of them. We now have the check gage on the dash lit up. All the gages look fine. When I connected the scanner I had power and it had not thrown any codes. It does say that the egr valve needs attention.
Thanks guys.

 

Probably from your low pressure oil not registering on the dash...just a guess though. Pressure switch might be bad. Or you might, indeed, have low oil pressure.

-jokester

 

Nope - FICMv don't give a crap what the LPO is doing. You know what DOES affect the pressure gauge though? OIL PRESSURE or a bad switch <a little louder for those in the back>

-jokester

 

The oil pressure switch (not a sensor) feeds directly to the instrument cluster (dash) gauge. Nothing is tied into the PCM from that switch.

Find out what is causing the engine light (ie get a good code reader). Make sure that scan tool can pull engine parameters also. ForScan is highly recommended.

The hard start could be because you have an actual low pressure of the oil discharged from the LPOP. Often times this happens from using OEM oil filters with a taller aftermarket oil filter cap.

Take a picture of your oil filter cap and post it here.

There are other causes, but start there.

 

I changed the oil in the truck about 3500 miles ago. Used Motorcraft filter and rotella t6.
Where is the oil pressure switch located? That would make sense.
It seems to me that we have more than one issue going on here. I have the ficm open and will check that for the hard start and chase down the oil pressure switch to see if it is malfunctioning. Or if as you say we just don't have any oil pressure.
Thanks for hanging with me.

 

That oil filter cap looks OEM.

Watch this for the oil pressure switch. Just be careful with it. The threads do not go in very deep on it.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqGzV8p8SOZcAptnaaJ9VP-cImY23R1aVYnJkiIXtTOWB7GUUpqqqCbk6rKZxjN3B82qc&usqp=CAU

 

Well it’s been confirmed that the ficm is not the issue. Never fell below 48 v. I’m going to try to get this back together before it rains in the morning.
Thanks again for your help.

 

Sounds like an oil pressure issue

 

Would it make sense that it is not cranking because of the lack of oil pressure in the hpop and it is taking a while for the lpop to get the oil there because the lpop is not working properly? Coffee starting to kick in...

 

Is there a way to check the oil pressure manually? I’m going to tell you going after that oil pressure switch will push my ability to twist a wrench. O what the hell I did change that fuse thing out this morning.

 

The FICM is more than a Power Board. You can't call a FICM good just because it is turning out 48 volts.

 

I didn’t know. I thought that it was similar to a transformer.

 

I use an xp laptop for forscan

You need lpo to feed the hpop to fire the injectors. Im betting the switch is bad but wont fix the starting issue, thats more than likely an hpo system issue. Gonna need icp, ipr, etc once you get the laptop up and running.

 

The hp laptop seems to be taking a charge so that’s good. I have ordered the adapter cable so hopefully this will be as seamless as possible. The cable will be here Saturday so we will go with what we have till then. I ordered fuel filters also. Don’t know when they were changed. I didn’t get to it when we changed the oil last time.
I’m going to look at some of the parameters that you specify with the reader that I have. I think that it will pull those out. We will see. Makes me appreciate my 03 and how few issues it has presented.

 

While you're waiting on the cable, start reading this thread by the one and only @bismic :

Troubleshooting a No-Start condition

First - get to know the 6.0L (you can skip this part if you are familiar with the 6.0L engine, terminology, engine sensors, and location of components): 2003.25 coffee table book (6.0L bible): Power Stroke Diesel - Power and Pride 2004 coffee table book (6.0L bible)...

www.powerstroke.org

It will cover a lot of what we're talking about in this thread, relating to a no start/hard start and monitoring ICP, IPR, etc.

-jokester

 

I feel like I am back in school. There is so much to know and learn about this truck. There’s so many cutting edge developments with this truck at the time.
Thanks for the information. I’m sure that it will help me out a lot. I got lost in the reading for a while now.
I have told my son that I will do the best I can and that this would be an adventure but, it may take me a while to get it all up to snuff. We aint backing down.

 

With that perspective, you are bound to succeed. There is a TON of help here when needed.

 

THIS!! Don't be afraid to fail with these trucks. They're meant to keep you humble LOL! I'm still timid sometimes myself. Just keep at it an you'll learn quickly!

-jokester

 

Yup. It is pointed out in the videos I posted above.

 

I would like to find an 07 in that mileage range (a stock one)

 

I’ve done some minor mods to the truck. Blue springs a curved intake. The turbo went out to lunch last summer. Other than tires that it. Southern truck all of it life.

 

Cranking:
Cam/crank sync
FICM sync
ICP sensor volts
ICP sensor psig
IPR valve % duty cycle
rpm
FICM MPower
FICM LPower
FICM VPower
Injector Pulse Width

 

I’m on it .

 

Like @bismic said...don't go all monkey man when you're tightening it down. Those threads can strip easily. Not sure what the torque spec is, just don't get out the 24" ratchet for this job 😁

-jokester

 

It will give me a chance to check out a torque wrench I bought a while back.

 

When you're trying to start, is it an even crank with no speed-ups or slow-downs?

Watch this video on testing for oil pressure on the low pressure side.

-jokester

 

Man it’s a good strong rpm. Doesn’t vary much if at all. I’ll post a video of the dash when trying to crank later

 

Here is a good video to watch

 

If you ACTUALLY have low pressure in the low pressure oil system (especially if it seems inconsistent or worse when you are on an incline, the I would expect you have:
1. a failed o-ring at the pump side feed circuit (o-ring from pump to block) or
2. a failure in the high pressure pump allowing fluid to leak past it while its not running (and possibly the ball bearing has come out on the 03-04 HPOPs).

 

So, the oil pressure gauge is just an idiot gauge, kinda like an idiot light -- when the pressure is acting up, just ground the connector on the switch -- this should cause the gauge to move to mid position.

It is not uncommon for the terminals in the instrument cluster connector to break the solder joint, and have intermittent connection. So, if grounding the terminal at the oil pressure switch does not make the gauge come up, then it may be just a solder re-flow job in the instrument cluster.

 

Finally, here is the video from this morning. Have a look.
About 30 second later we lost oil pressure on the gage and shut down. Please note that it will crank immediately after it has run for just a minute or so. Even though the gage shows little or no oil pressure.

 

Gentlemen this one has made me think. So I’m putting brakes on today. Adapter has not arrived.