Change it
change it
change it
change it

 

Flush it or just drain and refill? Anyone know about how many quarts it’ll hold?

 

Also thought about upgrading the direct drive solenoid and the epc solenoid

 

Just drain and refill and replace the trans filter.

Only 7-8quarts when you drain the pan. Make sure to use oem filter and thfilter correct fluid only

 

Good idea on the upgraded solenoids?

 

You could do an '08 pan/filter upgrade...

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...ormance-parts-discussion/1075009-08-trans-pan-filter-upgrade-quick-summary.html

...and I wouldn't bother with the solenoids unless I had issues.

 

I have heard of several people, and I am going to start, going to a 20,000 mile program where you just drain the pan and refill every 20,000 since you cant get the fluid out of the converter without a flush. The price of a flush at the dealearship is outrageous in my opinion. I will change both filters at the book recommended interval.

 

I went with the '08 pan and filter, and did not replace the toilet paper (cooler) filter. The '08 filter is a full flow filter, whereas the '03-'07 is not. I can't remember if I used 10 or 12 quarts.

IMO As far as not changing it, it's only making things worst if the clutches are only engaging because of all the dirt in the fluid. It's giving it life it doesn't need. That's at best. At worst, nothing was wrong to start with, but by waiting too long, the transmission can become toast.

 

Just changed my trans. fluid for the first time at a little over 52k miles....fluid looked really good/clean and no alarming crap in the pan. I did the 08' pan/filter upgrade and changed the TP filter. It all went very smooth. I think I ended up putting 10 qts in all said and done.

As previously suggested...change it. And use Motorcraft SP fluid (my $.02)...

 

I wouldn't mess with the solenoids either. I have my transmission hot flushed every 30,000 miles regardless. I also had the 2008 pan and filter installed on the last flush.

Its your call on drain and fill or hot flush. I will continue to hot flush my transmission for one reason alone.

A new transmission will run you around $4,000.00 to replace if it fails. My last flush was $349.00 big deal

 

Did you go to the dealer for the hot flush or do you have a tranny shop that can do a hot flush?

 

Went to the Ford Quick Service.

The transmissions are awesome in these trucks, not throwing any monkey wrench into it myself from not servicing it well. Mine likely doesn't like me already for hanging 38" 130lb wheels and tires on the axles.

 

Are you regeared with the 38s? I want To run a 8” and 37s but have heard it’ll eat a 5r110 up! I’ve got a fairly built motor with a hot street tune from innovative as well.

 

Hell no, my transmission don't give two sh!ts about those 38" tires. Don't believe that for a minute, I am still running 3.73 gearing and it clicks away flawlessly. Now I will be proactive with fluid changes and I already have the full filtration system on the transmission. But I honestly don't think the transmission or the engine even know the stock tires are missing.

My truck rolls out with you pinned back in the seat when I roll into the throttle. I'm averaging 17 mpg most of the time the and that includes running it up into the Sierras usually every weekend close to 100 miles each way. Motor just lumbers along around 1650 rpm's @70 MPH but it likes it at that speed.

My truck is tuned along with a FICM tuner and is around 425 HP so its no sissy.

I had mine at 8" and took it down to 7" because it was more of a step onto the amp steps then I liked. It was harder to drive at 8" I will say on narrow country roads because it wasn't as well mannered. It really drives like a stock height truck at 7" with no steering geometry issues or body lean.

The suspension has a very plush ride and long runs are a treat in the truck. Its really pretty amazing how good the ride is with the truck.

 

I’m thinking about the 6” 4link RC lift

 

Also, are you running the atlas 40? And what kind of tune on the motor and transmission?

 

Honestly I would save up for a suspension lift that is going to ride good. Icon or Pure Performance or Carli. The Carli is probably the best ride quality of the three. But I have Icon 7" coils up front with Fabtech radius arms in the rear I have the 2008-2016 Carli/Deaver leaf springs and Rancho 9000XL shocks all around.

Rough Country is going to be exactly that: "Rough everywhere in the Country"

FICM Tune is a Atlas40 you are correct. My signature has some of my trucks info and if you click on the word: (Garage) it goes to my trucks complete info along with pictures that I loaded.

Your truck is a very expensive machine, don't throw cheap junk in for your suspension. A $60-$70,000 truck deserves a $5,000.00 suspension everyday of the year.

Tires and wheels are likely going to cost you $2,500-$3,000 by themselves. So yes there is some expense in the job but I have as much into my 2006 trucks suspension lift too. But every time I drive it I get paid back in Spades with a beautiful ride. Truck came with a Fabtech lift that rode like a Sherman tank. Buying a new lift was worth every penny and so is your truck for damn sure.

 

@6.0Hunter
While your down there changing that transmission fluid take the time and change the transfer case fluid also. Changed mine this past trip home and it was pretty dirty with 134k on the clock.

 

There is a new procedure over on FTE that is supposedly aproved by Mark K. one of the 5R110 engineers, that alows you to do a near 100% fluid change at home with out the heated machine. It involves hanging the pan below the trans on longer bolts and inserting a 3/4 inch OD hose through the gap between the pan and case into the filter port (with the original filter o-ring on it) and sticking the other end into a large bucket of the correct fluid and running through the gears. It bypasses the internal thermostat that only affects the cooler lines and sucks fresh fluid into the pump and through the converter, pushing all the old fluid back to the pan, and consequently out the drain hole into a drain bucket.

 

change it! that statement of "don't change it" comes from if you had like 199,000 miles and it'd never been changed ..then maybe leave it alone.

 

That’s the thing, it has a 260k on it and i have no idea if it has ever been changed.

 

One way to look at it if it's at 260k it's possibly near EOL already. If a fluid change speeds that up a little, no real biggie. If it helps prolong it's life a while, all the better. A simple pan drop and refill is not likely to cause any problems, but I would put the '08+ pan and filter on it. :twocents:

Edit: If the fluid is burnt, smells burnt or there is a lot of clutch material or a little metal in the pan. Plan on doing a transmission soon. If the fluid is good and clear and the pan is reasonably clean, You're probably good to go for a while.

 

When i pulled the stick out to check the fluid, it was at the full line and did not smell burnt. Assuming that’s a good sign i guess I’ll change it. Looking towards a Twisted Diesel stage 3 soon anyways

 

A phenomenal trans builder/troubleshooter, "Transbrain", says about an unknown transmission service history is to only drain the pan, install new filters, then refill the pan. Call it a day.

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