'08 Trans Pan/Filter upgrade - quick summary - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 79 Old 01-14-2016, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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'08 Trans Pan/Filter upgrade - quick summary

Hi all. Just did an '08 transmission pan/filter upgrade. I also put in a PTP Modified Direct Clutch Solenoid.

This is a straightforward job. I am doing this quick writeup to help anyone who is doing it next.

The parts/price list is:
  • '08 Pan is Motorcraft 8C3Z-7A194-B - I bought from Sunrise for $65
  • '08 Pan filter is Motorcraft FT180 - I bought from RockAuto for $36-discount
  • 03-10 TP filter is Motorcraft FT145 - I bought from RockAuto for $22-discount
  • 3 gallons of Mercon LV - I bought from Meijers ($16/gal, I think)

Note: I reused the pan gasket. The Motorcraft FT145 filter does NOT come with the housing o-ring. I reused that too.

Step 1 - Run it to temp
Ummm... run it to temp. That's it.

Step 2 - The external filter
The external filter in a canister not unlike an upside down oil filter canister. It is straight back from the passenger side lower radiator corner.

Here is a pic:



That is not my truck. Too clean. My pic did not turn out well.

When you pull the external filter housing/cover off, use an impact. It is not on there very solidly, so cranking on it with a ratchet will bend the lines. It's prolly 22mm, but 7/8" was pretty much dead on.

Just remove the cover. Pull the TP filter off. Move the spring cap from the bottom of the old filter to the bottom of the new. Put the new one in place. Lube the o-ring with some trans fluid. ...and spin the housing cover back on.

Step 3 - The pan/internal filter
First, drain the fluid from the plug (13mm) and then pull the 20-ish pan bolts (10mm). The pan drops easy with not much mess.

You pull the internal filter out by pulling straight down. When you pull the filter, more fluid will spill out, though. There is a orange seal that is around the neck of the filter. This is what it looks like:



Like other instances on these trucks, you need to fish the old one out before putting the new one on. I had to.

Here is the old and new pans/filters side-by-side:



Pan is slightly taller but there really is a huge difference in the filter.

Step 4 - Modified Direct Clutch Solenoid (optional)
This solenoid is the middle in the bank of three. This pic from the installation doc shows it:



You just pull the capture clip, unplug the solenoid, slide it out, slide the new one in with the connector at 6 o'clock, turn it to 7 o'clock, reclip and reconnect.

Step 5 - Pan installation and fluid fill
The pan is light and easy to put in place. As stated, I reused my gasket. I moved around while tightening loosely to be sure that it settled. Then moved around again while torquing to 11ft-lbs.

Filling stinks because Mercon LV stinks. Literally. Don't say that you weren't warned.

I filled the amount I drained and then added as needed. Easy.


That is all. I have been driving around and have not noticed the hard shifting that some have mentioned with the solenoid swap. It just shifts smooth and nice.

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BPD oil cooler relocation and upgraded EGR cooler (spooled), BPD oil bypass filtration, aFe Magnum Force CAI, Mishi radiator, EC1 ELC, XDP coolant bypass filtration, '08 trans pan/filter, PTP direct clutch solenoid, blue spring, 6.4 starter, MBRP y-pipe, BD boots/clamps, '05 intake elbow, ccv reroute, Torque Pro + OBDLinkô LX, Autometer EGT
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post #2 of 79 Old 01-14-2016, 04:05 PM
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How much fluid did you actually put in it? I thought I saw somewhere that it needed to be flushed or something to get the old stuff out to get the new stuff (LP) in. Just curious.

Nice write up. THank you.

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post #3 of 79 Old 01-14-2016, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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I still have one unopened gallon left, but I am not done adding. I am going to have to report out when it is topped off.

Like the coolant system, you really can't get everything out of these transmissions. Some people go to great lengths (read: do really crazy stuff) to try. Not interested.

Instead, I will top off. Run for a while. ...and then drain a gallon off and dump a new gallon in. After once or twice of doing that, I'll call it all good.

Thanks for the kind words.

Edited to add...
From my reading, it seems that the quest for the perfect flush is a bit of overkill. The old and new trans fluid chemistries mix just fine. My old looked quite fresh, actually - although the TP filter clearly needed to be replaced. All-in-all, I think that if the trans is in good shape, then - like the coolant - replacing some greater percentage (80%-90%) of the fluid is sufficient.
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BPD oil cooler relocation and upgraded EGR cooler (spooled), BPD oil bypass filtration, aFe Magnum Force CAI, Mishi radiator, EC1 ELC, XDP coolant bypass filtration, '08 trans pan/filter, PTP direct clutch solenoid, blue spring, 6.4 starter, MBRP y-pipe, BD boots/clamps, '05 intake elbow, ccv reroute, Torque Pro + OBDLinkô LX, Autometer EGT

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post #4 of 79 Old 01-14-2016, 04:15 PM
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Are the pics just small for me.

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Originally Posted by 6.0Stroker View Post
It's Toren. .. don't question it ..
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post #5 of 79 Old 01-14-2016, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavy_GD View Post
Are the pics just small for me.
Someone else will have to chime in on that. I sized each picture to 640px along the major axis.

Looks fine to me. ...but it wasn't a fish that discovered water.

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post #6 of 79 Old 01-14-2016, 05:19 PM
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Thanks first of all. Ok seems doable. I am not familiar with torque wrenches and I think it's time I get one. Only cuz I here you all using the term. I am thinking of getting this one for when I do the pan job and for future jobs on my 6.0
TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 10-150-Foot/Pound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU..._nIeMwb7CTKXAV

Will this work? And will it work with my current ratchet set.

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post #7 of 79 Old 01-14-2016, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkpassenger View Post
T... I am not familiar with torque wrenches and I think it's time I get one. ...
TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 10-150-Foot/Pound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU..._nIeMwb7CTKXAV

Will this work? And will it work with my current ratchet set.
If you have 1/2" drive sockets, yes, it will work fine. The one thing, though, is that a lot of stuff on the 6.0 is on the lower end of the torque scale - pan bolts, oil cooler housing bolts, sensors, ... Waving around a 1/2" drive clicker at those problems, might be a bit much in therms of size and weight.

I'd recommend a 3/8" drive. ...and - if the cost doesn't bother you - go electronic. They typically beep short tones as you are approaching the preset torque limit and goes constant when you reach it. Nice.

I have a inline electronic torque wrench adapter that does this. You can see one like it here:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20742A-Digital-Torque-Adapter/dp/B009GLISY4

If I were to buy all over again, I'd get something more like this:

Eastwood 3/8 Inch Drive Digital Electronic Torque Wrench
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2004 F550 CC Lariat
BPD oil cooler relocation and upgraded EGR cooler (spooled), BPD oil bypass filtration, aFe Magnum Force CAI, Mishi radiator, EC1 ELC, XDP coolant bypass filtration, '08 trans pan/filter, PTP direct clutch solenoid, blue spring, 6.4 starter, MBRP y-pipe, BD boots/clamps, '05 intake elbow, ccv reroute, Torque Pro + OBDLinkô LX, Autometer EGT
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post #8 of 79 Old 01-14-2016, 07:26 PM
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I have three torque wrenches. One that does 10 - 80, one that goes to 150, and one that goes to 250, IIRC. Even then there are some things that require more torque but those wrenches are expensive. For that I borrow or have to take it to a shop.

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post #9 of 79 Old 01-14-2016, 09:38 PM
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I'll probably get this one djmaguire posted. http://www.eastwood.com/digital-elec...3-8-drive.html
I've never needed one but like every other tool I have I bought to work on my 6.0.
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4 inch Turboback
Egr Gone
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Srlxx
Studded Hgs Bulletproof Hd Oil Cooler Etc By Sean Aka Ricmiester at Lox Dce
Blue Spring mod and too much more to mention.

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post #10 of 79 Old 01-15-2016, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djmaguire View Post
I still have one unopened gallon left, but I am not done adding. I am going to have to report out when it is topped off.

Like the coolant system, you really can't get everything out of these transmissions. Some people go to great lengths (read: do really crazy stuff) to try. Not interested.

Instead, I will top off. Run for a while. ...and then drain a gallon off and dump a new gallon in. After once or twice of doing that, I'll call it all good.

Thanks for the kind words.

Edited to add...
From my reading, it seems that the quest for the perfect flush is a bit of overkill. The old and new trans fluid chemistries mix just fine. My old looked quite fresh, actually - although the TP filter clearly needed to be replaced. All-in-all, I think that if the trans is in good shape, then - like the coolant - replacing some greater percentage (80%-90%) of the fluid is sufficient.
Thanks for responding to my questions.

Honestly, that's what I was thinking. I've seen some videos where guys will put a bucket of fresh fluid and an empty bucket of fluid in the front and turn the truck on and pump fresh in while the old pumps out. Seems odd to me, but ok.

I was thinking the same thing. If you get a few extra gallons of it, and drain it monthly or whatever, remove a gallon, insert a gallon, then you eventually will get it all, plus it would probably increase the longevity of your fluid. I don't know, makes sense to me.

Do you have any comments on the solenoid yet? I'm curious about this for when I do mine. I'm wondering if it's worth it for me to do it, since I tow a lot during the spring and summer months. I noticed this morning, that my rpms go higher than it seems they should before shifting early on. But I figured maybe that was because it wasn't completely warmed up yet.

Again, thanks for the wright up.

2006 F250 CCSB -
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