Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

So I've blown my 6.4 Power Joke, Do I bother fixing it?

53K views 144 replies 36 participants last post by  krazyk  
#1 ·
TL,DR; If I try to rebuild the motor myself, what should I upgrade, what vendors would you recommend and about how much money should I expect to shell out for a DIY job?

Long Story:

I bought this truck just a couple months ago, and have dumped a huge load of time and money into it already, suspension work, oil cooler, egr/dpf delete, H&S MiniMax (but running stock tune) 5th wheel install, new tires, rear brakes, axle seals, 10" radio, back-up camera...just tons of work. So I have a lot of time and money in this truck already.

The whole point was to make the truck as reliable as possible before my road trip (hence the stock tune + egr/dpf delete, along with the oil cooler and all the other maintenance.)

However, pulling a hill on I-80 east of Wells, NV I heard a loud gush of air, and oil sprayed out all over the right side of the truck. So I pulled over, looked under the hood and saw the rear most glow plug cap blown out on the passenger side. Got the truck and 5th wheel towed, and this morning got the news from the shop that I have lost compression on one of the cylinders, so I have a borked piston or rings or something along those lines.

Shop quoted $18k for a Ford drop in replacement, and I didn't even spend that much on the truck, so just..no.

If I go at this myself, say I pull the motor, get it machined assuming its salvageable, how in depth should I go? What do I do for better pistons, since those are a weak point on these things? Should I spend the money and replace the HPFP? Do I have the injectors serviced or just replaced? What else should I consider doing while I'm in there with that motor to beef it up as much as possible? And finally, is it worth doing, how much is it going to cost for me to do it all myself?

I'm having a bit of sunken cost fallacy. All the time and effort I've put into the truck has me more attached to keeping it. But also, this thing has been a giant turd and I'm already on the phone with my insurance company to see if I can write the thing off, and never, ever buy a Ford again, because this has by far been the absolute worst vehicle I've ever owned. (It had death wobble, oil cooler issues, and now this...in the couple months I've owned it) It's already a money pit, I've spent more on it than it's worth. And now I'll have to spend thousands more on it to keep it going. So the question stands, do I bother?
 
#2 ·
Personally.... My two choices for a 6.4l is a cummins diesel conversion kit or sell and look for a 2014 or newer 6.7l Cummins or Powerstroke. I challenge you to do some heavy reading on this forum and others to see the work people put into 6.4ls only to have them go again sooner than later... The 6.4l is a throwaway platform that was made for 2.5yrs. The early 2011-2013 6.7ls had some issues but by late 2013 they were seen as the new versions of the 7.3l powerstroke/5.9l cummins.

Read and read here and other place get away from the 6.4l engine by cutting your losses now or spending money on a used 5.9 cummins and maybe 3-4k on a cummins swap conversion kit. Most by deisel conversion come with everything except the engine needed.
 
#4 ·
Im no 6.4 guru, but i will say they get a worse rep than they deserve. The 18K you got quoted is insane, you should price it out with other diesel shops(avoid ford dealerships, they will destroy you wallet without good reason). Mine will do 1 for a little over half that, with de lipped pistons which is what you’ll want to use. I’d say if you’re deleted and have been for a while there is a chance you can reuse alot of the parts on your current motor, certainly no guarantee there till you take a look at things. If the 12v 6bt didnt sound like a tap dancing dinosaur I’d recommend a swap. But thats all up to you. My main recommendation is pricing out replacement motors with de lipped pistons(something maxxx they’re called) and head studs.... I personally really enjoy my 6.4.
 
#5 ·
I'm currently getting quotes to get it towed home, if I fix it, I'm doing it myself. Which I'm leaning towards. A swap to a different motor is out of the question, I kind of hate aftermarket stuff, and swaps and all that stuff and I try to avoid it as much as possible. The only reason I have the tuner at all is because I need it for the EGR/DPF delete, otherwise I would have stuck with the stock tune.



I think you mean the Maxx-Force pistons. Are those already de-lipped, or is that an additional service that needs to be done? I've seen the pistons, I've seen the service, but it's all a little confusing about how the whole sausage goes together.

I keep seeing rebuild kits from aftermarket makers and I don't think I want any of those. I want Ford parts everywhere possible, anyone have an idea what all the gaskets/pistons etc would cost for a full refresh from Ford?
 
#6 ·
Go to Ashville engines and check out what they have. If your heads are good you can save some $, but I'd say you're looking at 10k to replace it. I doubt you'd save much doing the build yourself (and chance a higher failure rate).

Sent from my Redmi Note 9 Pro using Tapatalk
 
#10 ·
Go to Ashville engines and check out what they have. If your heads are good you can save some $, but I'd say you're looking at 10k to replace it. I doubt you'd save much doing the build yourself (and chance a higher failure rate).
I took a look, looks like they're using the Victor-Reinz gasket sets I want to avoid, found a lot of posts about those head gaskets failing, and generally, I prefer to stick to OEM where possible, unless we have a situation where the OEM part is garbage, like the factory pistons vs the Maxx-Force versions. I'm not afraid of doing engine rebuilds, I've done them before. Getting the engine out and back in is going to be the fun part. I already did the oil cooler cab-on and that was an adventure.

Can anyone recommend a good shop for injector work, and servicing the high pressure fuel pump, a new one is a grand, and if I'm in there... ugh.
 
#7 ·
from everything thing I've read, watched and observed in person the 6.4L is the worst of the recent Powerstrokes. Inhereits some of the 6.0L issues and then was the first generation to begin major emission requirements. Navistar built it as a throw away motor due to their contract dispute with Ford and knowing the end was near. I have a relative who has one with just over 100k miles and has a lot of issues. I have 118k issue free miles on my 2015 6.7L and I put 180k issue free miles on my 2007 6.0L. I'm sorry that you've got so much invested already but in my opinion you're just polishing a turd.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Yess Maxx force pistons are what you’ll want for piece of mind. My understanding is that they are factory de lipped pistons that got placed in the really heavy duty 6.4. Ive never priced out an entire rebuild. If i ever needed to do the bottom end i would buy a short block with the maxx force pistons installed...Doing your own 6.4 rebuild is no easy undertaking. But i dont want to discourage you.
 
#12 ·
Kill devil diesel complete long block. And be done with it. With warranty. ON EVERYTHING.

Don’t even try to get parts from here, there..and your “cousins buddy”

Because since you’re asking “how to build a 6.4” I’m sorry it will never last unless you have experience. Listen to someone who’s been around them since they came out.

You drive a diesel and a 6.4 at that. You either got money.. or think you doo.. if it’s the prior. Call Jared at KDD Buy a bulletproofed not only redesigned to get rid of the factory flaws like installed bronze valve guides, but blueprinted engine that is sure to last the rest of that trucks life. And focus your time on something else.

You try and build it. Every time it makes a weird noise you’ll be paranoid and have a 60 of Whiskey under your bed because you won’t sleep.. Trust Me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#11 ·
If it were me, I’d sleep on it over the weekend, and start pricing out everything next week. In 4 hours you’ve gone from wondering if you even want to bother, to rebuilding it yourself.

It sounds to me like you’re making an emotional decision and are still to PO’d at the whole thing to make a good rational decision.

Sleep on it for a few days. Make a good informed decision. It may take you a couple of weeks to sort through where you are, and where you need to go. Big expense even doing it yourself. Not talking you out of or into anything. Just putting some perspective on it.

Sunk costs are just that. Don’t look back, look at what you have going forward.

That’s my 2c, Good luck with it.
 
#14 ·
If it were me, I’d sleep on it over the weekend, and start pricing out everything next week. In 4 hours you’ve gone from wondering if you even want to bother, to rebuilding it yourself.

It sounds to me like you’re making an emotional decision and are still to PO’d at the whole thing to make a good rational decision.

Sleep on it for a few days. Make a good informed decision. It may take you a couple of weeks to sort through where you are, and where you need to go. Big expense even doing it yourself. Not talking you out of or into anything. Just putting some perspective on it.

Sunk costs are just that. Don’t look back, look at what you have going forward.

That’s my 2c, Good luck with it.
This is definitely what's going on, but no worries, I won't be pulling the trigger on doing anything but getting the truck towed home. It'll be a few days for sure before I do anything.
 
#22 ·
Unless you have special insurance for mechanical breakdown (i.e. a 3rd party warranty from when you bought the vehicle), they aren't going to cover it. Regular car insurance only covers physical damage (collision/ flood/ lightening/ theft, etc.), not wear and tear.

I agree with the above KDD, or sell it for a loss and get a 6.7L with higher miles and good maintenance records. Sunk cost is emotionally hard to get over and make a rational decision.
 
#21 ·
I’m going through a similar deal, bought a 6.4 with interior burn to fix and replace my 6.0 truck. Motor ended up being bad and they torched for ins money. Block ended up being junk (spun cam bearing) as well as several galled pistons. Found another block had it machined .020 over and currently putting together I took the maxxforce pistons and delipped them a bit more and had them ceramic coated rcd stg 2 cam and all that goes with it. Checking piston protrusion I found some issues haven’t pulled rods/pistons back out but thinking a few of the rods are bent. Waiting on heads to come back from new guides/seats. It’s been a bit of a process. I’d love to put some Carrillo rods in it but not in the budget. Have a o dawgs intake and 74mm low pressure charger for it gotta pick up injectors yet as I don’t trust the ones I removed even though truck only has 80k miles. I swore I’d never buy a 6.4 but here we are!
 
#23 ·
Welcome to the 6.4 reality, own one long enough and you realize how much it costs to have to pull the cab for literally everything. If you plan to fix it in your driveway, find a running used motor and sell it... Honestly, the best advice I can give you. Unless you plan to buy a block from a reputable seller (such as KDD). Even then, these days your best bet is to recoup as much as you can and dump it. 6.4's just aren't worth it, parts are getting harder and harder to come by and there are just too many weak links. Even a "bulletproof" 6.4 (There is nothing anyone can do or say to make me believe the term "Bulletproof" belongs anywhere near 6.4 powerstroke... I don't care what parts are in it.) still isn't going to come anywhere near the reliability of a 6.7 powerstroke or cummins.

If you have the money and want the power, that's different... Then its time for a MUCH different conversation lol.
 
#25 ·
Also, I should add about power, on the chance I decide to fix it and keep it. I'm not interested in more power. I'm totally happy with the stock power, it pulled my roughly 9000# 5th wheel loaded incredibly well. The last thing I want to do is add more power and stress crap out more. I would be building for stock power and as much added reliability as possible.
 
#27 ·
i know you said an emphatic “no” to engine swaps but your truck is a great candidate for a DT360 swap. The engine bay is a bit bigger than the 99-07 models, making the swap a little easier. Carson Stauffer has an adapter to mate it to the 5R110, so no trans swap to worry about (or sell your 5R and start looking for a lockup overdrive Allison). The DT is completely mechanical, and a competent injection shop can rework either the A or P pump to deliver more power than the trans will take. The good news is you can still find the DT relatively cheaply, and even factoring in the cost of the adapter, trans controller, fabrication, and related miscellaneous costs you still come in much cheaper than $18k. After you sell you tuner, engine, and any miscellaneous parts you don’t need it’s even cheaper. You’ll have a true industrial strength engine, with the option of in-frame rebuilds when the time comes. Just my opinion, but I’ve been keeping an eye out for a truck such as yours for just this thing.
 
#32 ·
I've made it back home. The wife made it to Nevada with the rental minivan she picked up in Salt Lake City. I packed up my crap and we headed home. I got transportation for the RV back home lined up, and it'll be delivered later this week. The truck is gonna sit at the shop waiting on the insurance adjuster to go look at it. If they don't come look at it by Wednesday, I'll get it towed back home, I've got a transport company lined up that'll do it for about $900. The RV cost $1350 to haul home with an insured, bonded, DOT numbered commercial driver.

I'm pretty sure this whole adventure is over for me at this point. I'm going to get out of this truck, one way or another, and sell the RV, and just give up on the whole RV from ski resort to ski resort idea. I'll just pay the exorbitant hotel prices for a week at a time, because at the end of the day, factoring in the cost of the truck, the cost of the RV, the fuel, maintenance...and then now the repair bills and the absolute headache and expense of breaking down in this situation...it's just not cheaper to go the RV route, and I don't ever want to relive this experience.



'Bout 185k when it exploded.

Having a great bed-plate and connecting rods don't do you much good when the pistons are junk.
 
#36 ·
Well, the "good" news is I have a backlog of videos to upload, about all the repairs I've done to this thing. I'm uploading the oil-cooler video now, which I'll release once the HD version is done processing, which will probably be later this evening. I won't spam you with videos if you don't want, just check my signature for my channel if you're interested. I try to make them edu-tainment style, and reasonably short. Video editing is a little side hobby of mine, kinda fits in with the work I do.
 
#38 ·
The only thing worse than breaking-down while towing an RV, is towing an RV with horses in the back to worry about! These things used to happen way more frequently 30+ years ago when the trucks were prone to more problems. Following along with the story here got me to thinking about a few of those times and the amazing local folks who lent a hand to help an out-of-state guy in a bind...Idaho, Montana, even Southern California come to mind. I'm forgetting a small town in Utah which opened-up its rodeo grounds at 10pm so I could put-up my horses. Good times and good people!

The destination may temporarily change, but as long as you have the RV, you're home.
 
#40 ·
For now I'm going to have to keep it, insurance didn't total it because with a used engine, it comes in well under value, so that's what I'm supposed to do.

So, what's really happening is, the guy who hauled my RV home, is going to go back probably next week and get the truck for me and bring it home too, where I'll tear it down and see what's what.

Which means ya'll get more videos with lot of swear word bleeps :p
 
#41 ·
For now I'm going to have to keep it, insurance didn't total it because with a used engine, it comes in well under value, so that's what I'm supposed to do.

So, what's really happening is, the guy who hauled my RV home, is going to go back probably next week and get the truck for me and bring it home too, where I'll tear it down and see what's what.

Which means ya'll get more videos with lot of swear word bleeps :p
I wonder what it would take to swap in a 6.0 longblock probably alot easier and cheaper if your block is trashed seams feasable but im not a 6.4 i dunno much about 6.4s other then my dads had some rocker issues and sounds like its getting ready to lose another someting about they dont get the lube like 6.0s do up top i think hes around 180k
 
#44 · (Edited)
I'm one that's been down this road. Round 1 210k miles: Head gaskets leaking, so rebuilt complete top end with Ford parts ($5kish). Round 2 10k miles later: Head gaskets leaking again, heads, gaskets etc under warranty. $1kish. Round 3 10kish later: cracked piston, exactly same symptoms as yours. $10kish later, fully rebuilt with Maxx-force pistons, stage 1 cam, and a few other minor things to help reliability. All work was done by myself with the exception of the machining. I got pretty good at pulling the cab. I'm now at about 35k miles since that last ordeal and the truck runs as good as the day I put it together. Like you, I wasn't looking for the power, I was looking for the reliability,,,,, but I gotta say,,, that comes with the power. My Son's '14 Cummins, tuned and deleted still can't touch my 6.4. I love the truck, I just wish it wasn't so dang expensive to work on it. If I could sell and get a 6.7 for the same price, I would do it, but the problem is my 6.4 has all of the bells and whistles I want. Hard to give that up after having it long enough to get setup exactly the way you want. I'll likely drive this one to the 300k mark,,,, maybe until it falls apart again,,, but I won't get another.
 
#45 ·
If it was me I'd go with KDD over a Ford reman. Ashville has a good reputation but this brand new long block deluxe package looks good.