You have just a 5” lift and are getting 10 inches of travel? In factory settings, shouldn’t you have like 3 inches or so compression at most before engaging bump stops upfront?
what are you doing w the truck? If just driving around town and the occasional off-road adventure , if I was in your shoes, I’d go with the longer shock, so long as you have your bump stops where they should be.

 

You want longer shocks, not shorter shocks as a general rule. You don't want to top out a "short shock" when you compress your lifted suspension. Of course the same can be said for the "extended" length when you hang a wheel in the air letting the suspension fully extend. Hence the use of limiting straps....

With that you should look more to what's the compressed specs of the suspension. Stop worrying about the amount of travel.

 

FYI:
Compressed length for the stock shocks: fronts are 15.5" and on the rear 20.2".

I had decided to use shocks for a 6" lift on a lift under 4". When researching the numbers the application for the 6" shocks were better suited for the application. They gave the length required for suspension full extension and fell close enough to the suspension full compression that there should never be a shock issue.

 

The fully compressed specs of the 5.5”-7” shocks are 16.2” so with the additional 5” of lift I should stay right in the range. Fully extended I’ll be fine as with the suspension hung on the jack stands it appears the coils become unloaded right at about where the shocks bottom out or maybe there is 1/2” left in the shock, but limiting straps will keep everything in the correct range.

but another thing I’m just wondering about is where the truck rides in the valved range of the shock ? I’d like a pretty plush Carli like ride so I don’t want it to be sitting in a stiffer section of the shocks valved range at normal weighted ride height

 

Is there any reason you are not just ordering a kit of shocks for your trucks specific lift kit?

Did you have the lift kit installed on your truck after you bought it? If so purchase a set of replacement shocks for that specific kit.
If you don't know the exact kit from the manufacture look for some part numbers.

As others mentioned longer is GENERALLY better but too long causes issues with bottoming out, and to short has the same in reverse.

 

It’s a combo kit I’m putting together of carli and icon and PMF stuff, it’s not a full kit, I’m saving a few grand by piecing it together myself and installing it myself with exception of the rear full leaf packs as they are too big and heavy for me by myself and no lift. every shock has a working range there is no shock except maybe super high dollar kings that are completely built straight up for a 5” or a 4.5” lift etc etc. I’m assuming even Carli uses a specific fox part # for their 4.5” backcountry before they custom valve them. so I’m trying to see what would be best for falling in my range. I understand the bottoming out etc etc

 

Sure wish I had a better knowledge of the workings of a shock and such. It seems easy enough but there's much more to it of course. I think were I get confused is the whole valving and how the fluid stays separated from the air inside the body (if there's air).

If I do understand it correctly then the better thought is to keep shocks within the full compression range of the suspension and limiting the extension. It seems easier to prevent damage to the shock.

With that there's the "application" : If you are doing a Baja course your shocks are 100% different than people just towing the boat to the lake on the daily. The same can be said for the ride that one will encounter.

I was told you always want to allow compression (within reason and controlled read "valving") and control rebound once again....valving. Where is the "working range"? 2" of suspension travel....or 10" of suspension travel?? The same shock built/valved for either is going to ride differently.

 

Paralysis via over-analysis

rear leafs are easy to do, on your back without a lift in the driveway. U less there’s some restrictions due to movement you have, they are fairly easy

 

They are super heavy and I don’t have a buddy to help, but I do have a good mechanic that’ll only charge me a couple hours so my mental health is worth that I think

 

All in what you value your time, I agree

 

Totally considering I did all the hard yards myself now I’m just waiting 4 days for the shocks … got plenty to do at the property here while she sits on jack stands out of commission…. I have a boat and a little farm so needless to say I’m busy