Why not just have your tune writer write you a tune that tells the ECM that your egr is deleted and to disregard any signals from those sensors. I did that with mine and never had to deal with this problem again. Makes more sense to me seeing as how your just replacing parts on the engine that aren't performing any specific task whatsoever since they are disconnected.

 

My tune (SRL+ from Matt at Gearhead) has written that the EGR is deleted, however it's the circuit that's throwing the code. My EGR delete comprised of the up-pipe being welded closed, and the EGR Valve was still in place (on the intake manifold) with the connector plugged into it. I have since replaced that EGR delete with a kit that completely removes the Valve alltogether. However, since removing the valve - the connector doesn't have any place to plug into, hince giving me the error code - which throws a check engine light and it won't go away. I know how to fix it, that's not the problem (in my situation), I just was curious about rigging something up with parts from Radio Shack to complete the circuit without having to have the EGR valve plugged back into the truck. :thumb:

 

Your head gaskets won't blow if you tune it. Lol they will if you put a ton of power to it and beat the **** out of it all the time but if you don't drive it like you stole it all the time and take care of her she will treat you good too.

 

Thank you!!! Someone understands haha I ran hot tunes on stock studs and gaskets and never had an issue its all about how you drive it, if you're smart about running your truck you will do just fine! But yes normally tuners will write out egrs to clear issues like that

 

have you changed anything in tuning that may be different

 

nope,

I periodically read the DTC's with the insight to make sure truck is happy and noticed all of the sudden they were there.

I'm clueless, I don't want to go and drop money on parts unless I know its for sure that. Also, I know it doesn't effect performance but I would really like this to go away so the P1000 will leave. Plus I like seeing the screen blank for DTC soft codes

 

I would like to add that maybe 3 months ago I got the EBP sensor code (don't remember actual code #). Anywas I only cleaned the tube (on vehicle) and never touched the sensor! oops.

reading this thread I think I may have found my culprit, gonna replace tube and sensor and see what happens

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0-motor-problems/190857-06-f250-ebp-cleaning.html

thoughts?

 

The reason the codes do not clear your not fixing the right thing. What your describeing is the throttle plate assembly and sensor. The egr valve is directly behind the elbow, round canister mounted verticaly into the intake manifold with 2 bolts. The code po407 imdicates a short in the sensor [black plastic part on top the canister]

You fix that and the other code should go away.

 

I disconnected the EGR valve (directly behind elbow) electrical connection and put di-electric on it. No go, code still there. Then I took the EGR valve out and cleaned (not really dirty though) and still no go, code still present.

Does this mean I have to replace the EGR valve? its like $77. Can I bench test the EGR valve somehow?

My EGR is fully deleted but these codes are kinda annoying, just trying to save spending $77 on something that might not even be broken.

thanks just want to make sure before ordering.

 

Well the code po407 indicates a short to gound so it could be in the wireing or connector as well as the sensor. Check that out before actually changeing the sensor.

By the way the sensor can be changed seperate of the valve it'self should be less money. Unless things have changed and the sensor is no longer just screwed to the valve.

 

Mine didn't appear to be rebuildable, might just bring it in to have the techs diagnose for me. I hate firguring out faulty wiring stuff, just absolutely hate it.

thanks for the help

 

I've got the same code popping on my rig too, but my EGR Valve is out of the truck completely. I'm goign to clean it and reinstall it, but I'm curious (as well as a few others are) about going to Radio Shack and doing an experiment with "making a circuit" and plugging that into the connector to see if it'll stop the code from throwing.

I've also heard that if you don't have your EGR Valve installed (connector plugged in and circuit complete), that your engine fan won't come on - or if it does, it doesn't operate at 100%. Does anyone know if that's true or not?

 

I read a very lengthy thread about this happening, I have also talked to Matt at Gearhead and he told me that it only happens on certain strategies. When I get home I am going to find out if it is true. I will post my results in my high temp thread.

 

SD, my egr valve is gone, plug secured on the top of the engine, and knock on wood, I havent had any codes or cel, I do have the egr turned off with my sct. On the haul I described from last Sun in 110* heat my fan would kick on when starting from a stop and then cut off, it did kick on 1 time up a long hill but went off as soon as I started down the other side.

 

Hmm... I'll try to mess with the SCT then to see if I can tell the ECM to override the EGR system. I'll also do some digging about the strategy code too, maybe that's where the problem lies with the fan not kicking on. Do you know what strategy code you have? I'll need to go look at mine tomorrow.

@ super diesel my egr delete is the one that removes and blocks everything that has to do with the egr and I used to get the codes before I ordered custom tunes and they wrote them for the egr being deleted and I never had a problem since.

I'll have to go into my SCT settings and see if I can't override it like Blue Goose and you. Matt's tune is written for a deleted EGR system, but I've always had the valve in - now it's out. And now I'm getting the code and a CEL every time I crank the truck up. Oh well, it's not a HUGE deal to me, I know that I can get it fixed... it's just one of those embarrassing things, ya know? You go for a ride with a friend, co-worker, spouse, whoever and they say "Did you know your check engine light is on?" or "Why's it your check engine light on?"........ Sigh....

 

@ super diesel my egr delete is the one that removes and blocks everything that has to do with the egr and I used to get the codes before I ordered custom tunes and they wrote them for the egr being deleted and I never had a problem since.

 

i don't want to tune cause then my heads will blow, hah ha

man this truck is a lot of work to keep going happy, still have to figure out my weird boost issues (other thread)

 

Lol and your reply should be DUH!!! It's a 6.0 that's why lol. J/k I love the 6.0.

 

Hahaha!!! I've said that a time or two... :look:

 

frickin 6.0!! these things are like women, constant attention

 

ok, so I brought it in to have them determine what the prob is

they said my EGR valve needed to be replaced along with my throttle plate assembly. They also said the turbo was NOT sticking at all.

ok so I went to the stealership and picked up a new EGR valve, installed in 10 mins and codes are still present.

wtf must be the throttle plate assembly???????

 

dang that thing is $655

yeah I won't be replacing that anytime soon, lol

gonna try disconnecting the batteries for like 20 mins to totally clear the computer

 

clearing computer did not work. its gotta be the intake throttle housing.

 

does driving around with the P1000 DTC code affect performance or mileage? so far it does not seem to affect anything

 

No, you have to drive it or run it for that to go away. It comes up after you clear dtc's.

Sent from my SCH-I500

 

yeah, it won't go away because of the other codes still present.

I have driven like 3000 miles and still have the P1000 and I am not clearing the DTC's every 100 miles

 

those other codes dont have anything to do with the p1000, it should go away. Your ficm may not be in sync. Dont know to much about it.

Sent from my SCH-I500

 

hmmm, and the saga continues!

 

I have checked voltage at egrtp connector pin a an c voltage is 5.0voltz an above speck which is 4.5voltz can this cause a stalling problem

 

So I ended up replacing the throttle body assembly last July and that fixed the problem.

No a couple months later these two codes are back, I'm thinking I have a faulty connector or wire somewhere.

can anyone help me with how to test for a faulty connector or wire for these two codes?

this doesn't affect drive ability but is just annoying.

 

Cleared the dtcs and so far they have stayed off

 

and now they are back and won't go away, this is really bugging me again. I hate having codes thrown.