This is what I came up with as an alternative for the BPD kit. Now I am definitely not saying that the BPD kit is in any way junk or sub standard in any way and only time and towing will tell how my kit holds up. I was however able to make this kit for about $300 less than the BPD kit but at the expense of extra time fabricating and figuring. There were two reasons I went this route. One I didn't like how much the BPD kit cost and two I really wanted to have a bypass filter in addition to my full flow one. (I know that the BPD has one but I just liked how the Amsoil had it built in with the full flow one.) I actually used an oil filter relocation kit for a 7.3L (that is what Amsoil had it for) so I used the full flow filter recommended for that motor (it is an Eao26 filter and is roughly the same size as the 6.0 cartridge filter if not bigger) and I used an EaBP110 bypass filter. This is actually a revision of my original kit. Originally I had used a B&M transmission cooler instead of the fluidyne one I have now. It was about the same size but half as thick and ony had 1/2in lines feeding in. The Fluidyne one (which is the same brand of cooler as the BPD cooler) has 12AN (3/4in) ports on it and is massive. I also added a thermostat to the mix as it would take forever for my oil to heat up. The thermostat is a Canton racing thermostat that is all aluminum construction with stainless steel bolts, has 12an ports, and opens at 215F. All of the brackets are aluminum with stainless steel hardware (except the one that holds the filters which is steel because the aluminum flexes too much). I also used aluminum an fittings on the push lock hose. Now of course I did use the BPD oil manifold block. It is made of aluminum and is a piece of work. It is expensive but is the best way to delete the oil cooler in my opinion and has 12an ports as well. All of the lines are 12an. I tried to stick with aluminum and stainless steel to keep everything from rusting as what happened on my first kit and is what I would assume would happend with the BPD kit unless you painted everything. Like I said up top, I am not in anyway knocking the BPD kit as I think it is a very high quality kit. It just wasnt for me and I thought I could make something that better suited my needs and wanted to share my ideas with other DIYers/Fabricators out there. Hope this helps.
Oil Cooler Delete
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windrunner408
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LOL! Yes it does.
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Ok guys well I had to do some tweeking so I could install two mechanical oil pressure gauges. I used sunpro mechanical gauges from Autozone so I could stay cheap because i am not going to keep them installed. I only installed them to see what the differential pressure across my system was. I took the advice of BPD and had to know. Well fortunately, I have an earlier oil transfer block that doesnt have a 30psi differential relief so I am at least getting clean cooled oil. I took the truck out for about a 40 minute drive through rolling hills and go it up to temperature, drove it for about 5-10 minutes at temperature and noted the following:
1. At idle the high side pressure gauge read 34psi and the low side pressure gauge read 26psi. For a differential pressure of 8psi.
2. Either accelerating or cruising didnt matter. At 2000RPMs the high side pressure was 80 psi and the low side pressure was a little above 50 psi. For a differential pressure of 30psi. Now I'd like to point out that the factory oil system is designed for 18-22psi of differential pressure at WOT and is also what the BPD system is designed at.
3. Now it was hard to tell but at WOT/3000 RPMs or greater, the high side oil pressure reached 99-100 psi and the low side pressure was above 60 psi. That leaves the differential pressure at around 40 psi. Almost twice that of the oem.
Now the question is, is my truck not getting enough low pressure oil I mean at crusing speeds or even WOT I am at greater than 50 psi from 2000rpms and up. I would like to hear what BPD would say. I know I am out of spec for the oem cooler but what is the real damage to my truck if any. I know I have never had over 50 psi of oil in any other vehicle of mine. I have had the kit on now for about 1000 miles now and normal operating temperature is 203-209F. I never see oil temperature get higher than that while running anywhere from 55-80 mph and having the oil at that temp means the engine has less resistance to possibly have more available horse power and better fuel economy. Well anyways there's the update. I may look into another cooler design as opposed to the double flow. We'll see. Bottom line here, is if you get a kit to delete your oil cooler I would stay with BPD. JMO.
1. At idle the high side pressure gauge read 34psi and the low side pressure gauge read 26psi. For a differential pressure of 8psi.
2. Either accelerating or cruising didnt matter. At 2000RPMs the high side pressure was 80 psi and the low side pressure was a little above 50 psi. For a differential pressure of 30psi. Now I'd like to point out that the factory oil system is designed for 18-22psi of differential pressure at WOT and is also what the BPD system is designed at.
3. Now it was hard to tell but at WOT/3000 RPMs or greater, the high side oil pressure reached 99-100 psi and the low side pressure was above 60 psi. That leaves the differential pressure at around 40 psi. Almost twice that of the oem.
Now the question is, is my truck not getting enough low pressure oil I mean at crusing speeds or even WOT I am at greater than 50 psi from 2000rpms and up. I would like to hear what BPD would say. I know I am out of spec for the oem cooler but what is the real damage to my truck if any. I know I have never had over 50 psi of oil in any other vehicle of mine. I have had the kit on now for about 1000 miles now and normal operating temperature is 203-209F. I never see oil temperature get higher than that while running anywhere from 55-80 mph and having the oil at that temp means the engine has less resistance to possibly have more available horse power and better fuel economy. Well anyways there's the update. I may look into another cooler design as opposed to the double flow. We'll see. Bottom line here, is if you get a kit to delete your oil cooler I would stay with BPD. JMO.
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I have a question, just to make sure I understand this correctly.
The "differential pressure" you're talking about is basically telling you that the oil is flowing out to the cooler at a higher rate than it can flow through the cooler and back into the engine. Something in the system is creating a bottleneck giving you a high pressure on one side and a lower pressure on the other side. Is that right?
Good thread, I can never seem to get enough learning about this truck.
The "differential pressure" you're talking about is basically telling you that the oil is flowing out to the cooler at a higher rate than it can flow through the cooler and back into the engine. Something in the system is creating a bottleneck giving you a high pressure on one side and a lower pressure on the other side. Is that right?
Good thread, I can never seem to get enough learning about this truck.
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Well my cooling system is a bottle neck hence why the pressure drops as it enters the sytem/leaves the engine at the high pressure and makes it back to the engine at the low pressure. The question is, is it enough of a bottle neck to cause any real damage to the motor. I am thinking that I am ok at least for now anyways.
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50 psi of oil pressure should be enough... The problem though is that right now everything is new. What happens once a little time goes by and the arteries clog a little?
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If I can weigh in on the oil temp issue IMO 180* is too low for the oil temp in these diesel motors and the motor will run more efficiently with the oil temp in the 205*-210* range. (incidently this is where my temps tend to run except in winter with my BPD with the standard thermostat in the CWK.) Diesels really need the heat to run efficiently and 210* is in no way troublesome to a decent synthetic motor oil.
Nick 180* is too low for the stock system. Your oil temps should be in the 194*-198* range with a normally functioning thermostat and oil cooler. I don't reall tow anything heavy but I think the highest EOT I have seen on a 100*+ day was around 215* and that was limping along in rush hour traffic without the engine fan on.
Nick 180* is too low for the stock system. Your oil temps should be in the 194*-198* range with a normally functioning thermostat and oil cooler. I don't reall tow anything heavy but I think the highest EOT I have seen on a 100*+ day was around 215* and that was limping along in rush hour traffic without the engine fan on.
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I agree. Oil that is kept too cool will be more likely to turn to sludge. With the temps oils are rated to these days, why not take advantage of it.
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No worries, I am with you and hind sight is always 20/20 and sometimes in life when you start out trying to save a penney by reinventing the wheel you end up paying double for that wheel. Nevertheless, I just chalk it up to my diesel educational expenses.
Anyone who reads this is sorely mistaken if they think I inferred that BPD's product was in anyway inferior to mine. That is not the case. I can tell you I have learned alot about our motor in the process of doing this and am going to see if I can tweak my system to get to that 18-22psi differential. I will do this by first switching my cooler to the BPD one and seeing how that works out, then if I need to, I will go with the BPD oil filter, and lastly the BPD thermostat. But as was already mentioned by BPD, their main concern was my dual pass cooler.
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These were my thoughts exacty when I decided to go with the 215F thermostat. I dont know what the temp of my oil is coming out of the motor but with at whatever it is and the thermostat opening, my oil coming back to the motor stays between 203-209F regardless of ambient temps being mid to high 80s and down so far as mid to high 30s. So now I at least know my oil is getting heated properly when I run the truck in the winter. Last winter when I was running my setup without a thermostat, my oil temps stayed below 180 and would only go above that if I went on a long trip. Not so good IMO.
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I kind of feel like the new guy in this thread without much to contribute because the rest of you have so much more knowledge on this than I do but...
When it comes to oil temps I'm a little worried and starting to wondering about my BPD oil system. At 32* ambient air temps I couldn't get my oil temp above 170* on the highway. What happens when the air temp hits -40*? I drive in those temps for at least 2 weeks a year and last year was almost 2 months! Should I be looking for a hotter thermostat?
I wonder how much testing BPD did in really cold temps. It seems to me that a different thermostat would be a good idea for me and possibly others who live in the really cold climates. I think I'll send them an email if I can find a few minutes. Maybe they should have a Cold Weather Kit and a Really Cold Weather Kit. :dunno:
When it comes to oil temps I'm a little worried and starting to wondering about my BPD oil system. At 32* ambient air temps I couldn't get my oil temp above 170* on the highway. What happens when the air temp hits -40*? I drive in those temps for at least 2 weeks a year and last year was almost 2 months! Should I be looking for a hotter thermostat?
I wonder how much testing BPD did in really cold temps. It seems to me that a different thermostat would be a good idea for me and possibly others who live in the really cold climates. I think I'll send them an email if I can find a few minutes. Maybe they should have a Cold Weather Kit and a Really Cold Weather Kit. :dunno:
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Well I will let BPD give their answer to your concern but IMO I would just get the internals to raise the temp of their oil thermostat. That should raise you up some. You could also get the blanket to put over your grill when it gets to -20F or whatever and that should help as well.
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You can always put a 195*F t-stat element in the thermostat housing. We designed our oil thermostat to be truck owner friendly. They use the guts from an inexpensive carquest t-stat that fits old school small block chevys.
Also, the oil temperature is measured on the cold side of the oil system. The actual oil temperature in the pan will generally be 25*F warmer.
It's kind of a trade off. You get better fuel economy with warmer thinner oil. You get a better lubricating film with cooler thicker oil. 170-190*F after the cooler is what we consider to be perfect.
We have tested our systems in Alaska and on the Northern shore of Canada. I hear it gets pretty cold there. Having said that, we always welcome new data points. So please feel free. Our goal is to provide the best products available.
Also, the oil temperature is measured on the cold side of the oil system. The actual oil temperature in the pan will generally be 25*F warmer.
It's kind of a trade off. You get better fuel economy with warmer thinner oil. You get a better lubricating film with cooler thicker oil. 170-190*F after the cooler is what we consider to be perfect.
We have tested our systems in Alaska and on the Northern shore of Canada. I hear it gets pretty cold there. Having said that, we always welcome new data points. So please feel free. Our goal is to provide the best products available.
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I kind of feel like the new guy in this thread without much to contribute because the rest of you have so much more knowledge on this than I do but...
When it comes to oil temps I'm a little worried and starting to wondering about my BPD oil system. At 32* ambient air temps I couldn't get my oil temp above 170* on the highway. What happens when the air temp hits -40*? I drive in those temps for at least 2 weeks a year and last year was almost 2 months! Should I be looking for a hotter thermostat?
I wonder how much testing BPD did in really cold temps. It seems to me that a different thermostat would be a good idea for me and possibly others who live in the really cold climates. I think I'll send them an email if I can find a few minutes. Maybe they should have a Cold Weather Kit and a Really Cold Weather Kit. :dunno:
I just got this one Cabela's: Winter/Summer Truck Grille Covers
The BPD oil stat doesn't open till 183* IIRC. With the large load being removed from the radiator, your engine will stay too cool in the lower temp ranges. I installed the grill cover snaps on my grill yesterday, and will try the grill cover tomorrow morning. I'll let you know how the temps do. I stuck a piece of carboard in there this morning, and my temps came up quicker, but still only got the EOT up to 176*. Keep in mind that my drive TO work is mostly downhill, and little load is placed on the engine
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Oil t-stats I'm familiar with don't "open" like coolant t-stats. They close.
When the oil is cool, they provide a "short circuit" for the oil to bypass the cooler. As the oil warms up, the oil t-stat closes proportionally to the oil temp causing more oil to be directed through the oil cooler. The flow of oil is never blocked in our system. Just diverted.
When the oil is cool, they provide a "short circuit" for the oil to bypass the cooler. As the oil warms up, the oil t-stat closes proportionally to the oil temp causing more oil to be directed through the oil cooler. The flow of oil is never blocked in our system. Just diverted.
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From what I've learned in the last 8 or 9 months that's what I figured for a temp range. I'm already on the bottom end of this range at 32* though. I watched these temps on a long drive and this is what I saw. BPD Cold Weather Package
I'm at 170*F and it's not even close to cold out so here's a new question.
At what temp does the current 180* tstat start to close and divert some of the oil flow to the cooler?
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They start to close around 170*F or so. They are not a precision device though. Nor are the exactly linear.
There are other factors involved as well. Oil type, age and viscosity being some of them. My advice to you at this time would be to wait and see. It sounds like the system is working just as it's designed to do. If you want warmer oil, changing the T-stat core to a 195* element is an option.
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