first update...

everything went smooth until the pump removal. I had borrowed a big slide hammer from a friend, but the two threaded inserts on the pump for the slide hammer were pretty large, the "fancy" slide hammer would have needed some serious fabrication (welding,drilling of retainer) in order to work, since it wasn't mine I couldn't do that. I had bought a cheap "bondo" brand slide hammer at advance auto parts for $12.99. It threaded right up in there without any bolts or any other parts, worked like a charm. It's built in threaded rod was a little smaller diameter, but enough that it held the threads fine when pushed all the way in.

so before you start make sure your slide hammer can hold a really big bolt, or get one of the crappy "bondo" brand $12.99 slide hammers ;-)

p.s. I'll post pics of progress at the end of the day...

 

so far so good, the low-reverse clutch roller assembly did not come out like the book said, you have to remove the big snap ring for the low-reverse clutch pack and remove it all as one unit, then separate it. The book says to remove the roller assembly first, then remove the snap ring for the clutches...

I've nearly got it completely disassembled, one bit of advice don't plan on getting a kit and being able to take it apart and then put it right back together again. You will need thrust bearings and thrust washers, there are several types of them for the transmission and you won't know what you need until you can actually measure them. I guess that's why they aren't included in the kit.

Mike at trans-parts in california has been very helpful, he knows his stuff and has been able to answer all my questions. He answers the phone every time I call, not some secretary who doesn't know anything. I went with trans-parts because their internet site showed that not only do they have the kits, but they have every single component in stock as well, so when you get into it like I did you can call him for a thrust washer.

I've read about a bad company called tranz-parts (with a "z") out of florida, I'm pretty sure these are not the same folks...

as promised there will be pictures this evening, including the clutch spring compressor tool I made. Just taking a dinner break right now.

so far I have not had to buy one "special tool" we'll see how re-assembly goes...

 

as promised here are some pics of the disassembly. It will be this weekend at the soonest before I can start the assembly, but I will update with the component rebuild part of the transmission rebuilding process.

first off I made my own transmission holder, the cheapest I found them for was over $400 bucks just for the holder, you didn't even get an engine stand with it for that price. I made this out of 1/2 inch by 2 inch flat stock, it's ugly but works great

next is the "bondo" brand dent puller I bought for 12 bucks at advance. It actually worked better than the fancy slide hammer I borrowed. the threads on the end did not match up perfectly but they were good enough that they held and did not booger up anything...

This is the clutch spring compressor tool that I made, made it out of thin 1 1/2 inch angle iron. 26 centimeters long with the bolt holes centered at 24.5 centimeters. one hole in the middle with threaded rod and a nut welded on and one smaller 6.5 inch piece of angle iron to push with. pretty cheap "special" tool...

this is all of the parts inside of your transmission, not bad at all...

and finally this is the gutted case

so total all in all not knowing what I was doing other than the ATSG book to guide me I got everything out, labeled, and set aside in about 8 hours. That included making my "special tool". It would have gone much faster if I had known what I was doing, but hey I'm a noob...


When I get ready to start stacking clutches and rebuilding components I'll update this thread, should be in a day or two.

 

First off, thanks for posting. I'm hoping to find a salvaged transmission so I can have the luxury of training myself on this rebuild. Sorry for these noob questions, but is that tranny from a 2wd or 4wd? Just trying to get an idea of the looks between the two. I'm going to have to take some pictures of mine under my truck so I can learn to tell the difference for when I start shopping for a rebuild. You also mentioned PTO, or at least I think that was it. Sorry, but what does that stand for? And last, your one picture shows the body or case of the tranny with it all gutted out. I was just wondering if it is possible for the internal body/case to become damaged, and if so does that mean it might as well be tossed away?

 

This is great, I will be the first to say, THANK YOU! I know my tranny is not going to last much longer and like you I use it as a work truck and can't afford the fancy tranny job so I will be using your guide when your done!

One thing that would be nice is if you could post up how much you paid for the parts and such and how much it ends up costing you total in the end, thanks again its appriciated!

 

Thank you for the write up great info so far.
If you get the Diesel Power magazine there is a write up in there with JW doing and sharing some tips if you havent picked one up or delivered to yo house you should.

 

costs:

transmission rebuild kit- all soft parts and seals, check valves, clutch disks, steel disks, replacement filter $210.00 shipped from trans-parts

Thrust washers- 2 were bad $14.68 shipped from trans-parts

"bondo" dent puller- $12.99

so far I'm about $240-$250 out of pocket on the transmission. I still have to buy a torque converter and more than likely a pump. I expect everything to come in around $600-$700 when finished. Of course mine wasn't that bad (I think), yours may have larger components that are broken.

I'll do a cost sheet when I am totally done and try to include everything. Right now I'm waiting on the thrust washers to come in the mail, when they are here I can re-assemble and try it out. I wish I could have afforded more upgraded parts for the transmission, but it was a real stretch for me to get the parts that it needed, when my truck is up and running I can start making money again but right now I'm stuck.

I found a used transmission out of a 60,000 mile wrecked truck that I can drive to try out for $1,000 dollars. It was tempting, but I've bought several used transmissions for various vehicles in my life and none of them have lasted more than 6 months. I figure that if I completely fail on the rebuild I've always got that as a backup, but I'd have to sell some guns or something to buy it.

Quote

"This is great, I will be the first to say, THANK YOU! I know my tranny is not going to last much longer and like you I use it as a work truck and can't afford the fancy tranny job so I will be using your guide when your done!
One thing that would be nice is if you could post up how much you paid for the parts and such and how much it ends up costing you total in the end, thanks again its appriciated!"

end quote

thanks for the kind words, glad if it can help you out.
If you are able to find one pretty cheap you should try and find a busted one now. Maybe a non-working core transmission, that way you can start rebuilding before yours goes down. If you can pick it up for the cost of a core, then you can sell yours when you swap for the same price. But if you're like me the extra couple hundred bucks would make a big difference...
I hope it will help someone, I looked and looked and could only find rebuilds that were putting $500 dollar clutches in their transmissions, I'm hoping to get my whole transmission done for what 1 set of the fancy clutches costs...

 

I found a used transmission out of a 60,000 mile wrecked truck that I can drive to try out for $1,000 dollars. It was tempting, but I've bought several used transmissions for various vehicles in my life and none of them have lasted more than 6 months. I figure that if I completely fail on the rebuild I've always got that as a backup, but I'd have to sell some guns or something to buy it.

wow thats a good price...of course depending on how long it would last like you said, still more self control than I got cause I would have bought that one! Now after reading in these forums though I probably wouldn't so you probably made the better choice.

 

I haven't forgotten about this thread, I just have not had time to put my transmission back together. I got my new thrust washers last friday, but have been helping put a flatbed on another truck. Gotta do something to pay the bills while mine is down...

I hope to get back on it this weekend and will finish up this thread.

I may have to buy the shift actuator timing tool, like a dumbass I removed the shift actuator sensor from the transmission and I did not need to. I was just following the steps in the book without thinking about what I was doing... it was one of the very first steps. Oh well, live and learn.

so word of advice, don't remove the shift actuator sensor unless you have to...

 

"shift actuator sensor"?????? Do you mean the switch on the manual linkage?? You don't need a tool to line it up. The outer and inner parts have a small line (ridge) that lines up in neutral.
It was a good idea to remove it. If the trans gets rolled over, it gets broke.

 

yeah, that's what they called it. seems like overkill. good to hear I don't need a special tool to line it up, I saw the line, mine wasn't exactly on the line, so like a good boy I marked it with my trusty paint pen for re-assembly.

the transmission won't "roll over" though. I built a handy-dandy transmission holder for it :thumb:

I'm going to get started on the build again this weekend, I had some work come up so I put the truck on the back burner so I could earn some much needed money (still gotta buy a torque converter).

 

any update?

 

sorry for the long delay. I was researching torque converters. Seems like I found a good one for under 300 bucks so I'm going with it. we'll see if it lasts or not. it is a multi clutch unit, so it ought to be decent. I was more than happy with my stock transmission, so even if it's "only stock" then I'll be just fine with that. I wouldn't imagine Ford putting an expensive torque converter in this thing from the factory.

Anyhow, I'll be ordering the thing this week so I can get a start on re-assembly. I'll try to take as many pictures as I can, and come in and give continuous updates to this thread on anything tricky. I've started soaking my clutches in transmission fluid so as soon as I can I'll be assembling this critter...

wish me luck :thumb:

 

the stock TC is a multi disc unit, which was poorly built causing the rattling noise after time because the clutches inside the TC become loose in their slots because it eats away the metal. but im cant wait to see how this rebuild goes im trying to decide whether or not i want to tackle this myself

 

Does anyone know how different these are compared to the stocker in a 6.0? Should be the same basic principle right?

 

I dont think so. They are completly diferent trans. The 6.0 has a torque shift which from my understanding does things diferently I dont even think it has a VB.:dunno:

 

woooohooooo

Ok... I'm back! sorry again for the long delays, but like the title says "for the poor man" I finally got a torque converter, found one on sale from ARI industries for $347 shipped. If you get one from there, make sure you know if you need a 4 lug or a 6 lug (mine is a 6 lug). so anyhow here's the update...

I didn't want to assemble my transmission until I had all my parts because I knew it would just kill me not to be able to put it in, I just finished assembly, total assembly time was about 10 hours including at least one big setback that took over an hour to figure out. Here it is, read it and remember, this is important...

DO NOT PUT THE REAR EXTENSION HOUSING ON UNTIL YOU ARE DONE!!! There is a thrust bearing in there that will fall off of where it is supposed to be and you won't be able to assemble other components (can't quite get snap rings on). In the book, this is one of the first things you do on assembly, well my thrust bearing fell off and was holding the output shaft about 1/4 inch to the rear and I couldn't get a snap ring on, I was just about to make a compressor since there are some springs in there for your reverse clutch/gear pack. I thought those springs were my issue, but after sitting down and taking a break I took the extension housing off and lo and behold I saw my problem and was able to push the shaft inward enough. Remember this one, it's important and will save you time!!! If I had compressed the springs it would have fit, but would have killed the bearing in a matter of seconds!

Unless you have a PTO model you won't need any special tools at all, in my previous posts I detailed the "special tool" that I made for compressing clutch springs.

A few other issues I had were the complete forward assembly was a real biotch to get all lined up, just read the book and wiggle and wiggle, it'll go eventually.

The coast clutch, in order to put the roller in you have to remove the clutches that they tell you to install, remove the clutches put the carrier in, then re-install the clutches it's easy then.

The seals on the pump are hard little weird seals that are split, they will hold your pump from going in all the way, I finally put a bunch of grease on them and they held enough to go in. Your pump will only go one way, make sure your gasket is in, then make sure everything is lined up right, and you'll be good to go. LIKE THE BOOK SAYS, IF IT DOESN'T GO EASILY DO NOT FORCE IT!!! I broke one of my seals by forcing it and had to re-use the best old one, it will go in fairly easily with moderate downward pressure, if it's not then more than likely it's the funky seals holding it back. When you see them you'll understand.

To compress the spring for the low/reverse spring the book tells you to get threaded rod, I couldn't find any in my town with fine enough threads, or find bolts that were all thread that were the proper fit. I bought shoulder bolts and a box of washers to stack up on them, It'll make sense when you see it... The thread is called SAE fine (at least out of the box that I got them from).

Here is another important one... THE CENTER SUPPORT has a snap ring that holds another spring down... I can't think of any reason to remove that snap ring. I removed it thinking there was a seal or something in there, there was nothing but a big pain in the A$$ to get that spring down again. I pried the funky spring against the snap ring with 4 screwdrivers (partner helped) and worked around until it all went back in again. Just my experience is I really don't think this needs to come apart unless it's visibly damaged.
The transmission holder that I built was a godsend, without it I would have been working on this thing for many more hours. Without the "special tools" sometimes I had to turn the transmission sideways to start putting something in, then while holding the part in have my partner turn it upright. That way things wouldn't fall apart while putting them in. That said, I took it apart by myself very easily, you will definitely want a partner putting it back together... If you have the special tools then it might not be a big deal to have a helper, but I did this on the cheap so i skipped all the expensive stuff.


So that's what I can think of right now, if I remember something I'll make another post, and I will definitely make another post when the transmission goes back in my truck (should be this weekend). Right now I don't know if it will move or not... I hope that I did everything right, it seems so... I'm anxious and nervous about it, I really hope this works, If not I've got to sell my small car to pay for a transmission.

Sorry for no pictures, but they wouldn't have helped much.

This job was not hard!!! There were a few pain in the butt things to do, but I think I covered them to make your life a little easier. It may not make things go faster for you, but you will at least have an idea of what to expect.

all in all it took me about 2 more hours to rebuild than it did to tear apart. If I ever do another one I can maybe shave that time in half! A few things did not come in the kit, kinda B.S. because the book says you have to use new things like feed bolts (they go in the bottom and hold things but they are hollow to allow fluid through). I don't see why you need new ones... they aren't torqued tight like a headbolt, I think it's a lie. You will need something called "trans-gel" I used grease instead and it should be ok, but I bet this stuff is better for the internals. It is just sticky and holds things for you...

I hope this helps somebody, and I hope my truck moves!!! I'll update as soon as it's installed...
:woot:


p.s. Thought I should add this... :doh::doh::doh: I don't think anything was wrong with my transmission... all my clutches were new looking (after 250k), all the bearings and carriers were great. I think one of two things happened here... Maybe I only had a bad torque converter... Or when my fluid leaked out I damaged a seal and it quit holding pressure. I'm leaning more towards the torque converter though. This is where expertise comes in, DIAGNOSIS... Anybody can rebuild their transmission, I did, it's not hard, but I may have not needed it... My truck had a leaky transmission, I figured I'd keep it full until I fixed the leak... DON'T DO THAT!!! It doesn't work. My truck then just quit moving forward, figured I toasted some clutches... well maybe only the clutches in the torque converter, because everything looked great in there. Or maybe it burnt up a seal that was holding pressure to something. either way, the total rebuild was kinda a waste, but it was a real learning experience.

 

Oh and something else, I said it already, but it needs repeated...

When you remove your components from the transmission have a small notebook handy so you can label each and every piece!!! Write the page number down in the disassembly section on your label as well. NAME EVERYTHING!!! When removing components have a couple of nice big tables handy (or a nice workbench) I used a couple of our camping fold out tables for it. You need to keep an order to laying things out such as "front of transmission down". That way when you are re-assembling with new components you will be able to look at your old stuff and know the order that it goes in. The book can be a little confusing at times, I was glad that I labeled things and laid them all out inline with front down for every piece. I knew exactly how it was supposed to go back in then.

If you start to make dumb mistakes... Take a break, have some tea (not beer) and come back to it in a few minutes. I started stacking 2 steels together and 2 clutches together, glad my partner noticed... we took a break and came back to it... Most times I love to have some beers while working on my vehicles, this is one time that I did not get intoxicated at all. Just drank tea and coffee... Maybe you can handle it but I wanted to have a clear head...

 

YEEEEHAAAWWWWWW!!!!

Just spent all afternoon putting everything back together... WORKS PERFECT!!! shifts smooth through all the gears, and best of all it actually goes forward!!!

I suspected this wasn't nearly as hard as it is made out to be, seems like I was right. Follow the book, do what it says (unless it's obvious the book is wrong) and you're good to go!!!

The kits come with 2 different sets of valve body gaskets included, make sure you're using the correct gasket, the differences are only 1 tiny pinhole that I saw so it would be easy to get them confused.

Man I am so stoked, it's been months since my poor ol truck has moved from it's "spot" now she's running around again like a powerstroke should.

No one should be scared of this transmisssion, it is very easy to rebuild, and if you have the time and a good place to do it do not waste all that money paying the shops for it. The only thing a good transmission shop can do that most home mechanics cannot do is give the transmission a proper diagnosis before tearing it apart. Other than that, screw the thousands of dollars they want for this job, take it from me IT'S EASY!!!

Here is a total cost breakdown...

Rebuild kit including steels, clutches, all gaskets and o-rings, with filter -$220 delivered.

Torque converter from ARI industries - $347 delivered

Penzoil all vehicle atf - about 100 bucks for all the fluid (it took about 17 quarts for filling it completely with a stock cooler).

help removing and installing transmission/t-case/and everything else- $200

so total is about $867 dollars, If I had help doing the heavy lifting for free it would have come in at $667

Not f-ing bad!!!

I hope this thread will help someone who was in the same situation I was in, I had to get my work truck running again but had very little money to spend on it. you can see from the dates of my posts how long it took me to scrape up enough money to get the job done. But it's done now and I'm so happy to have "fordzilla" on the road again. Anyone looking to do this themselves can feel free to email me, I'll help you if I can.

 

Thanks for posting this. When the time comes, I'll be doing my own as well. Could you post some more pictures & elaborate on your trans holder/engine stand adapter?

 

as far as assembly goes there isn't anything much I can add for pictures that would have shown anything.

The transmission stand will become apparent when you actually look at the transmission. It has 3 big indentions 2 on one side and 1 on the other for the holder to screw into. Basically i just used steel with nuts welded to it so I can screw threaded rod in to tighten it all up.

If you have a transmission to look at, then look at the pictures I posted it will make more sense.

good luck, sorry for the lack of assembly pictures, but the book does a great job at that, I just wanted to show pics of the tools that I made.

 

Just bought a rebuildable 4R100

Update: I just bought a full 4R100 tranny and torque converter in need of a rebuild for $150. Is that a good price? The guy I bought it from said that he had it rebuilt once, but it was still having problems. I guess it was slipping and he said it would blow out extra fluid (out of some overflow) when he was towing up really steap grades. He said it was cheaper for him to buy a working one out of a salvage yard than it was to have his current one rebuilt. So he did that, and said the salvage yard wouldn't take cores. So that was why he was selling it. I thought $150 seemed like a good deal, but I'm not sure. I hope it turns out to be a good investment, and not find out something is wrong with the case.

 

Update: I just bought a full 4R100 tranny and torque converter in need of a rebuild for $150. Is that a good price? The guy I bought it from said that he had it rebuilt once, but it was still having problems. I guess it was slipping and he said it would blow out extra fluid (out of some overflow) when he was towing up really steap grades. He said it was cheaper for him to buy a working one out of a salvage yard than it was to have his current one rebuilt. So he did that, and said the salvage yard wouldn't take cores. So that was why he was selling it. I thought $150 seemed like a good deal, but I'm not sure. I hope it turns out to be a good investment, and not find out something is wrong with the case.

Probably worth 3 times that for a core charge. That's a pretty good deal.

 

SBJ I've been looking to do the same thing you are (buy a bad one and rebuild before its time) but I'm always finding prices more in the 3-500 range for a bad tranny...
where did you score that deal?!

EDIT:
of course I do keep noticing the $1000 "remanufactured" 4R100 on ebay(HERE), they say they garuntee it for 30 MONTHS!? What do you guys think of that? Sounds wierd any tranny for that cheap could be warrantied for that long...?

Or this one with a 24 month that even claims to be "dyno tested", no torque converter but still...why so cheap with an unlimited miles warranty like that?
HERE

(torque converter with 12 month unlimited mile warranty $235 shipped)-HERE

 

I got lucky and found mine in our local online classifieds ksl.com - Utah News, Sports, Weather and Classifieds. I watched it for a little while and emailed the guy a couple of different times. I can't remember what he was originally asking for it (something like $350 I think). I guess most people don't want an already broken tranny. :hehe: It was just taking up space in his garage and he wanted it gone ASAP. So I told him I only had $150 cash, and asked if he would take that which he did. So I think it might just be a matter of looking in the right place at the right time. I would probably call around to junkyards and keep an eye out on your local classifieds. You will find one for a good deal eventually. Good luck...:thumb:

 

I went ahaid and emailed some of those sellers claiming big warranties for some terms and details on the warranties.

This is the only one I have gotten so far, I'm really considering buying one of these when the time comes...what do you guys think?

 

Mainly... How much does it cost? It sounds like they have lots of "we don't cover if..." clauses in there. I wouldn't do that route if I were you. If I were going to buy one I would let the people who built it put it in, that way if it fails they can't blame you or another shop for doing something wrong. I've gone through that before and it isn't pretty, the transmission people will say it's the shop that put it in (or you), and the shop will say it's the transmission. Eventually it will be a stalemate and you will be the one screwed.

It's best to keep the whole job to one shop, then there is no one to blame but themselves.

However, my advice for the thing is to do it yourself... you'll save a load of money and have something you can be proud of when bragging to your friends. Before you spend any money on a transmission buy the book from ATSG and have a little read through it, it's only 20 bucks for the book on ebay and my bet is when you see what is involved you'll end up doing it yourself. I only encountered one problem which I am about to post now.

 

UPDATE

UPDATE ON MY REBUILT TRANSMISSION!!!!!!


Ok so here is an update after driving the truck for a bit... Reverse kept getting worse and worse until I basically had to put it in low range just to back up a slight incline... I thought first off that I had ruined something, or just done something wrong...

before tearing it apart I thought long and hard about the whole build and re-read through the book. Here is what fixed it...

In the rebuild kit they give you new check balls, the kit that I got had hard red plastic check balls and a ****ty EPC blowoff ball/spring. I put the new ones in even though I didn't like them. The old ones that were factory were a hard rubber compound. Well I thought it was the plastic balls versus the rubber balls and that I was having a sealing issue, I guess I was right. I put my old ones back in and it's perfect again. I've just gotten back from a 4 hour pull of about 9,000 lbs. and no issues at all.

so when you get your rebuild kit, make sure to order the rubber check balls and a new steel EPC blowoff kit. The plastic stuff doesn't seal up and will cause issues!!!

 

Mainly... How much does it cost?

I do keep noticing the $1000 "remanufactured" 4R100

CLICK HERE - $1000 (probably garbage) 4R100

And thank you for the information, I didn't realize you where having problems with it but I'm glad you figured it out so when all of us do it we don't have to! Thanks again!

EDIT:
I also have some questions, I'm trying to get a list going of all part numbers needed and from where.

In one of your posts

transmission rebuild kit- all soft parts and seals, check valves, clutch disks, steel disks, replacement filter $210.00 shipped from trans-parts
Thrust washers- 2 were bad $14.68 shipped from trans-parts

The parts list at trans parts for the 4R100 is at THIS LINK (click here)
could you please tell us which rebuild kit and thrust washers you ordered from there?

Also here is a LINK TO ARI TORQUE CONVERTER is this the one you purchased? If not could you please show us which one. I couldn't find any options for a 4 or 6 bolt? Also is there any way to know which you have (4 or 6) Before pulling it out?

And thank you once again! This will help a ton of people have the confidence to order whats needed the first time and do it right the first time. Thats my fear anyways...I don't mind tearing into it and doing it, I just fear I will screw up somewhere and not know it until its back in...I hate doing things twice.

EDIT AGAIN!: I'm sorry but I keep thinking of questions...
You mention you got another check ball and kit...where did you get those and how much?
Also about your torque converter possibly being the problem all along, what would you suggest to insure someone else doesn't have the same thing happen? Take it to a shop first? I fear if I do that all shops will just tell you it all needs rebuilt no matter what...?