2000 F250 with 7.3 and 315,000 miles. I was chasing oil leaks and resealed hpop, replaced hoses and hose plug/ends. It ran well for 50 miles after the repairs, then died like it was a CPS. replaced CPS, engine registers rpm's so I didn't think it was the CPS. Opened reservoir plug, no oil down to the screen. Put in 1 qt. of oil, it started, ran for 30 seconds then died and cranks but will not start. Checked oil reservoir, no oil. Thinking I did something wrong in the HPOP reseal (it was producing sustained 2,700 psi). Was very careful with the "non serviceable plug ball during the repair. The oil pressure gauge doesn't move while cranking, but I don't remember it moving before this problem until it started. Some threads suggest it may be the low pressure pump gear or check ball on front of block. They don't seem likely becuase the truck ran well HPOP before reseal.
No start, no oil in HPOP reservoir
drhill4
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Itis still empty. Melling (LPOP manufacturers) directions say to dip the LPOP in oil, which I did. Some blogs say you must put assembly oil on it to get it to prime. Thoughts.
Did you inspect the front cover for any grooves or wear that would cause issue? I have always jut done what Melling said when installing them in my trucks
I call BS on the guy in the vid -- would just as soon listen to Bill Hewett
Crank the engine over with the reservoir plug removed -- should have oil flowing out the plug in a few seconds
The reservoir fills via the stand pipe to the level dictated by the spill orifice -- this is how air is eliminated
The only path for oil to leave the reservoir is thru the HPOP under "normal" circumstance
The reservoir is pressurized when the HPOP is filled and is controlled by the relief in the oil cooler housing
A leaking front seal on the HPOP , wrong mounting gasket , or leaking lower reservoir gasket -- can cause the oil level to drop over time
The check ball in the block will not drain the reservoir -- there is a stand tube in the reservoir to keep that from happening -- oil cannot drain back thru the stand pipe
IF you pour oil into the reservoir , it should stay filled -- to the orifice and stand pipe level for a long time
Since you say that the engine will run for a time after oil is poured into the reservoir
that would mean there is no oil being supplied by the LPOP to fill the reservoir
The pressure regulator valve may your next step -- they can get stuck open, which would dump all pressure -- not a common failure tho
The bypass valve will not "lose pressure " it will only bypass the oil cooler -- still the oil will flow thru the engine
You can crank the engine over with the oil cooler removed to see if the LPOP is able to move any oil at all
Also did you use the correct HPOP mounting gasket ?
Crank the engine over with the reservoir plug removed -- should have oil flowing out the plug in a few seconds
The reservoir fills via the stand pipe to the level dictated by the spill orifice -- this is how air is eliminated
The only path for oil to leave the reservoir is thru the HPOP under "normal" circumstance
The reservoir is pressurized when the HPOP is filled and is controlled by the relief in the oil cooler housing
A leaking front seal on the HPOP , wrong mounting gasket , or leaking lower reservoir gasket -- can cause the oil level to drop over time
The check ball in the block will not drain the reservoir -- there is a stand tube in the reservoir to keep that from happening -- oil cannot drain back thru the stand pipe
IF you pour oil into the reservoir , it should stay filled -- to the orifice and stand pipe level for a long time
Since you say that the engine will run for a time after oil is poured into the reservoir
that would mean there is no oil being supplied by the LPOP to fill the reservoir
The pressure regulator valve may your next step -- they can get stuck open, which would dump all pressure -- not a common failure tho
The bypass valve will not "lose pressure " it will only bypass the oil cooler -- still the oil will flow thru the engine
You can crank the engine over with the oil cooler removed to see if the LPOP is able to move any oil at all
Also did you use the correct HPOP mounting gasket ?
Thank you for the feedback! I have watched a number of Bill Hewitt's videos and like him. He suggests using assembly lube on the LPOP replacement. I didn't do this because Melling says not to. I have cranked the motor with the reservoir plug out no oil coming in and no pressure (put thumb on it).
I used Ford gaskets during HPOP rebuild and it ran for 100-150 miles after. Going to remove reservoir and check gaskets. With reservoir out will crank motor looking for any oil. Thinking about taking the check ball out of the top driver side of block and filling it with oil to attempt priming the LPOP.
Question: There is a plug on the oil filter/cooler housing. If it is removed the LPOP should pump oil out, right? This assumes the oil path to the plug is before the oil pressure valve...
Will provide update after reservoir removal tests and inspection.
The comment about brother Bill was not a compliment to him either -- he has his share of faults
usually the guys on this forum will comment negatively
Bill does get some things right tho
Bill shows packing the pump with red grease in his vid about the oil pump -- assembly lube would be the better choice
Just leave the filter off -- crank by shorting across the starter solenoid on the fender -- key off
Cranking with the reservoir removed -- you can see the oil coming up the two ports on the front cover -- the larger port fills the reservoir -- the smaller port is lube for the cam gears
VID 1
There are a few good views of the oil ports in the reservoir and the guy does a decent job of explaining the oil paths -- but does get off the trail when talking about adding a pressure gauge -- The factory pressure sender is on the top cover of the reservoir -- you can drill another hole in the top cover , or use the existing plug
You can see the bulge of the stand pipe from the front outside of the reservoir easily -- Looking at this vid, you should see that the oil will not be able to drain back out thru the fill tube
VID 2
usually the guys on this forum will comment negatively
Bill does get some things right tho
Bill shows packing the pump with red grease in his vid about the oil pump -- assembly lube would be the better choice
Just leave the filter off -- crank by shorting across the starter solenoid on the fender -- key off
Cranking with the reservoir removed -- you can see the oil coming up the two ports on the front cover -- the larger port fills the reservoir -- the smaller port is lube for the cam gears
VID 1
There are a few good views of the oil ports in the reservoir and the guy does a decent job of explaining the oil paths -- but does get off the trail when talking about adding a pressure gauge -- The factory pressure sender is on the top cover of the reservoir -- you can drill another hole in the top cover , or use the existing plug
You can see the bulge of the stand pipe from the front outside of the reservoir easily -- Looking at this vid, you should see that the oil will not be able to drain back out thru the fill tube
VID 2
Believe I found the problem. Took off the HPOP reservoir and noticed a blue shop rag on the HPOP drive gear, wet with oil and chewed up. Bone head move, think I cleaned the reservoir and left the rag in it to keep dirt out. No idea how I didn't see it during re installation.
Drained the oil, chunks of blue rag came out, what seemed to be the rest of the rag. Filled pan with new oil. Then with HPOP reservoir off, cranked engine for 30 seconds. No oil flow. There are 2 oil feeds into the reservoir the rear one pushed a teaspoon of oil out 5 seconds after the cranking stopped, the bubbled. Cranked for another 30 seconds, no oil. Thinking I need to check the check ball inside the block (the cold start path) for rag material. Also will remove the oil cooler and look for blockage as I believe the LPOP pumps oil through it BEFORE it goes through the oil filter. Will also check oil pressure valve and oil filter bypass valve while it is out.
I tried to see the oil pick up tube screen through the drain plug orifice but it is so close the camera probe is not able to get inside the hole and turn to see it.
Any thoughts on this course of action or other areas I need to look at is appreciated.
Drained the oil, chunks of blue rag came out, what seemed to be the rest of the rag. Filled pan with new oil. Then with HPOP reservoir off, cranked engine for 30 seconds. No oil flow. There are 2 oil feeds into the reservoir the rear one pushed a teaspoon of oil out 5 seconds after the cranking stopped, the bubbled. Cranked for another 30 seconds, no oil. Thinking I need to check the check ball inside the block (the cold start path) for rag material. Also will remove the oil cooler and look for blockage as I believe the LPOP pumps oil through it BEFORE it goes through the oil filter. Will also check oil pressure valve and oil filter bypass valve while it is out.
I tried to see the oil pick up tube screen through the drain plug orifice but it is so close the camera probe is not able to get inside the hole and turn to see it.
Any thoughts on this course of action or other areas I need to look at is appreciated.
Is there a way to get the towel off the scerre without pulling the engine? Maybe putting oil down the check ball in the oil channel on top od the engine,,, maybe wishful thinking.
The camera will not fit between the pan and sump there is only 1/2" between them. Picked up a wire brush from hardware store, bent it 90°, it fit. Brushed odd bottom of sump by feel and towel pieces came with it. Going to pour 1 gallon oil in, drain to see if more pieces drain. I've seen the videos that lift the cab, then motor to take pan out. Is this like the one you have?
Been unsuccessful in finding the vid
the guy done the work in the front yard on a piece of plywood
Loosed the front cab mounts and used a bottle jack on the front pulley to lift the engine -- until it hit the firewall
then loosed the pan -- reached in and removed the suction tube
pan was then removed
Seems like he had the truck up on 8x8 wood blocks under the tires to give room to get under
the guy done the work in the front yard on a piece of plywood
Loosed the front cab mounts and used a bottle jack on the front pulley to lift the engine -- until it hit the firewall
then loosed the pan -- reached in and removed the suction tube
pan was then removed
Seems like he had the truck up on 8x8 wood blocks under the tires to give room to get under
That is what I had to do a few years ago. Loosen motor mounts jacked engine until turbo touched pretty hard. Probably should have loosened the cab bolts would have helped out. It was still a pain though.
Thanks for the feedback!! The brush and flush didn't work. Tomorrow through the weekend I'll do the previous plan of removing LPOP,oil cooler and check ball on top of block to clear oil paths. With LPOP off, I'll try to backfeed oil or air to clean sump pickup screen. If it doesn't work pulling the pan is only option I can think of left.
I think I've seen the video you are talking about and will look for it.
I think I've seen the video you are talking about and will look for it.
Son married last weekend on the Colorado River and back on the 7.3. Removed LPOP and put assembly lube everywhere. Removed check ball on top of block and oil cooler. 2 sessions of cranking for 40 seconds, no oil out the check ball or oil cooler inlet port. The LPOP is not priming. Taking it off tomorrow and re-apply assembly lube. Need ideas on clearing pick up tube I blew air down it and 1.5 qts of oil down the LPOP channel. Both went out the oil pan and no blue towels came out.
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