[Darbyf250]

If you can figure out which injector(s) are clicking, you can try the trick I mentioned earlier if the connectors reach (think using your ear and a long piece of hose placed on each hole right on top of where the injector connector feeds through the rocker box).

Would probably be a good idea for a guy to make a 4' harness with a male injector connector on one end and a female on the other so you could jump from one side of the engine to the other and test injectors on the opposite side.

-jokester

I’m going to order some connectors so I can build a test harness Thursday if needed. I appreciate you guys helping me out. I’m pretty certain the injectors were OEM from them. I had done business with them before. I replaced a bad one about 40k miles ago an it was still going fine when I decided to just replace them all while in there.
Jokester I have a piece of hose that I old school search with which some younger guys have picked up on too. Also have an old red oak dowel rod for the same test.

 

[bismic]

What I am saying is that OEM re-manufactured injectors MUST be re-manufactured by Pure Power to claim that the approved company of the original manufacturer (OEM) actually performed the re-building work.

IMO very few injectors that are labeled "OEM re-manufactured" actually are.

Warren is one of the more frequently purchased injectors. I have seen a forum thread where it was determined that all 8 of their injectors had bad solenoids - out of the box. I am pretty sure that they are not re-manufactured by Pure Power. That said, they sell a LOT of good injectors.

It happens - a lot.

 

[Darbyf250]

What I am saying is that OEM re-manufactured injectors MUST be re-manufactured by Pure Power to claim that the approved company of the original manufacturer (OEM) actually performed the re-building work.

IMO very few injectors that are labeled "OEM re-manufactured" actually are.

Warren is one of the more frequently purchased injectors. I have seen a forum thread where it was determined that all 8 of their injectors had bad solenoids - out of the box. I am pretty sure that they are not re-manufactured by Pure Power. That said, they sell a LOT of good injectors.

It happens - a lot.

I’ll be checking them individually this Thursday unless I get off Wednesday this week too. I want be to happy if I lost injectors when they’re new. I haven’t had any issues out of the two others I’ve gotten from them over the last few years but you never know I guess. As a maintenance manager I see new parts that are dead out of the box weekly so it wouldn’t surprise me.

 

[Darbyf250]

So I purchased a new injector harness to do my testing with and to have a few additional ends as well.
I have came up with these results testing the one in my truck this morning. Maybe someone could use these numbers to help with their test as well. These are test going from the ficm plugs to the injectors. My buzz test still passes but doesn’t fire but 3 individual injectors. None of the others are firing so the Ficm has to be the issue. I’m going to do the individual test to confirm all the injectors fire using one of the confirmed plug ends an go from there to validate the ficm as my root cause of no start.

#1 injector
Pin #2 to pin #19 has .8 ohms
Pin #5 to pin #20 has .8 ohms

#2 injector
Pin #1 to pin #23 has .8 ohms
Pin #6 to pin #24 has .8 ohms

#3 injector
Pin #4 to pin #19 has .8 ohms
Pin #8 to pin #20 has .8 ohms

#4 injector
Pin #2 to pin #17 has .8 ohms
Pin #6 to pin #18 has .8 ohms

#5 injector
Pin #1 to pin #21 has .8 ohms
Pin #5 to pin #22 has .8 ohms

#6 injector
Pin #4 to pin #21 has .8 ohms
Pin #7 to pin #22 has .8 ohms

#7 injector
Pin #3 to pin #17 has .8 ohms
Pin #8 to pin #18 has .8 ohms

#8 injector
Pin #3 to pin #23 has .8 ohms
Pin #7 to pin #24 has .8 ohms

 

[jokester00]

Good info. Thanks for posting.

I’m going to do the individual test to confirm all the injectors fire using one of the confirmed plug ends an go from there to validate the ficm as my root cause of no start.

^^ This test should give you your answer. Just make sure you test your tester before you test so it doesn't lead you down the wrong path! Wouldn't shock me at all if it ends up being some bum injectors instead of the FICM though...

Keep us updated on your findings!

-jokester

 

[bismic]

So I purchased a new injector harness to do my testing with and to have a few additional ends as well.
I have came up with these results testing the one in my truck this morning. Maybe someone could use these numbers to help with their test as well. These are test going from the ficm plugs to the injectors. My buzz test still passes but doesn’t fire but 3 individual injectors. None of the others are firing so the Ficm has to be the issue. I’m going to do the individual test to confirm all the injectors fire using one of the confirmed plug ends an go from there to validate the ficm as my root cause of no start.

#1 injector
Pin #2 to pin #19 has .8 ohms
Pin #5 to pin #20 has .8 ohms

#2 injector
Pin #1 to pin #23 has .8 ohms
Pin #6 to pin #24 has .8 ohms

#3 injector
Pin #4 to pin #19 has .8 ohms
Pin #8 to pin #20 has .8 ohms

#4 injector
Pin #2 to pin #17 has .8 ohms
Pin #6 to pin #18 has .8 ohms

#5 injector
Pin #1 to pin #21 has .8 ohms
Pin #5 to pin #22 has .8 ohms

#6 injector
Pin #4 to pin #21 has .8 ohms
Pin #7 to pin #22 has .8 ohms

#7 injector
Pin #3 to pin #17 has .8 ohms
Pin #8 to pin #18 has .8 ohms

#8 injector
Pin #3 to pin #23 has .8 ohms
Pin #7 to pin #24 has .8 ohms

** EDITED - to get the correct plug location for C1388b (2,3,5,8)

Just to add some "detail".

FICM Plug C1388a (end plug nearest the firewall) services injectors 1,4,6, and 7

FICM Plug C1388b (middle plug) services injectors 2,3,5, and 8

 

[bismic]

Hope you don't mind, but I found a few conflicts with your pin numbers, so I re-did them a bit and matched it to the Electrical manual and FICM manual:

FICM plug, injector wiring (to and from FICM plug), and injector testing (0.8-1 ohms is good):​

C1388a (end plug nearest firewall): 1, 4, 6, 7​

#1 injector Pin #2 (ground) to pin #19 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #5 (ground) to pin #20 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#4 injector Pin #1 (ground) to pin #23 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #6 (ground) to pin #24 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#6 injector Pin #4 (ground) to pin #21 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #7 (ground) to pin #22 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#7 injector Pin #3 (ground) to pin #17 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #8 (ground) to pin #18 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

C1388b (middle plug): 2, 3, 5, 8​

#2 injector Pin #2 (ground) to pin #17 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #6 (ground) to pin #18 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#3 injector Pin #4 (ground) to pin #19 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #8 (ground) to pin #20 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#5 injector Pin #1 (ground) to pin #21 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #5 (ground) to pin #22 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#8 injector Pin #3 (ground) to pin #23 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #7 (ground) to pin #24 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

Troubleshoot injector coils: Unplug the injector harness and ohm the injector connector pins (INJECTOR side). Ohm range .4 to .6 ohms (AMBIENT temperature) at test pins 1&2 (open coil) and 3&4 (close coil). The pins are numbered on the plug. Test at ambient air temp. Be advised these pins are small and hard to get on cleanly without touching the probes on the other pins.​

FYI (wire colors in Injector Harness for 2006):
.
For injector #1:
Injector pin 1 goes to C1388a pin 19 (2006 HARNESS wire color: White w/ Black stripe)
Injector pin 2 goes to C1388a pin 2 (2006 wire color: Light Green w/ White stripe)
Injector pin 3 goes to C1388a pin 20 (2006 wire color: Dark Blue)
Injector pin 4 goes to C1388a pin 5 (2006 wire color: White w/ Light Blue stripe)

For injector #2:
Injector pin 1 goes to C1388b pin 19 (2006 wire color: Black w/ Pink stripe)
Injector pin 2 goes to C1388b pin 4 (2006 wire color: Orange w/ Light Green stripe)
Injector pin 3 goes to C1388b pin 20 (2006 wire color: Dark Green w/ Violet stripe)
Injector pin 4 goes to C1388b pin 8 (2006 wire color: White w/ Violet stripe)

For injector #3:
Injector pin 1 goes to C1388b pin 21 (2006 wire color: Dark Blue w/ Orange stripe)
Injector pin 2 goes to C1388b pin 1 (2006 wire color: Tan w/ Light Green stripe)
Injector pin 3 goes to C1388b pin 22 (2006 wire color: Dark Green w/ Light Green stripe)
Injector pin 4 goes to C1388b pin 5 (2006 wire color: Light Blue w/ Black stripe)

For injector #4:
Injector pin 1 goes to C1388a pin 17 (2006 wire color: Light Green w/ Black stripe)
Injector pin 2 goes to C1388a pin 3 (2006 wire color: Tan w/ Yellow stripe)
Injector pin 3 goes to C1388a pin 18 (2006 wire color: Light Green w/ Orange stripe)
Injector pin 4 goes to C1388a pin 8 (2006 wire color: Light Green w/ Red stripe)

For injector #5:
Injector pin 1 goes to C1388b pin 17 (2006 wire color: White w/ Light Blue stripe)
Injector pin 2 goes to C1388b pin 2 (2006 wire color: Light Blue w/ Red stripe)
Injector pin 3 goes to C1388b pin 18 (2006 wire color: White)
Injector pin 4 goes to C1388b pin 6 (2006 wire color: Orange w/ Yellow stripe)

For injector #6:
Injector pin 1 goes to C1388a pin 23 (2006 wire color: White w/ Pink stripe)
Injector pin 2 goes to C1388a pin 1 (2006 wire color: Light Green w/ Yellow stripe)
Injector pin 3 goes to C1388a pin 24 (2006 wire color: Orange w/ Light Blue stripe)
Injector pin 4 goes to C1388a pin 6 (2006 wire color: Yellow w/ Light Green stripe)

For injector #7:
Injector pin 1 goes to C1388a pin 21 (2006 wire color: Red w/ Light Green stripe)
Injector pin 2 goes to C1388a pin 4 (2006 wire color: Red w/ Yellow stripe)
Injector pin 3 goes to C1388a pin 22 (2006 wire color: Red w/ Black stripe)
Injector pin 4 goes to C1388a pin 7 (2006 wire color: Brown)

For injector #8:
Injector pin 1 goes to C1388b pin 23 (2006 wire color: Red w/ Light Blue stripe)
Injector pin 2 goes to C1388b pin 3 (2006 wire color: White w/ Red stripe)
Injector pin 3 goes to C1388b pin 24 (2006 wire color: Yellow w/ White stripe)
Injector pin 4 goes to C1388b pin 7 (2006 wire color: Black w/ Light Green stripe)

 

[Darbyf250]

Hope you don't mind, but I found a few conflicts with your pin numbers, so I re-did them a bit and matched it to the Electrical manual and FICM manual:

FICM plug, injector wiring (to and from FICM plug), and injector testing (0.8-1 ohms is good):​

C1388a (end plug nearest firewall): 1, 4, 6, 7​

#1 injector Pin #2 (ground) to pin #19 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #5 (ground) to pin #20 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#4 injector Pin #1 (ground) to pin #23 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #6 (ground) to pin #24 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#6 injector Pin #4 (ground) to pin #21 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #7 (ground) to pin #22 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#7 injector Pin #3 (ground) to pin #17 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #8 (ground) to pin #18 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

C1388b (middle plug): 2, 3, 5, 8​

#2 injector Pin #2 (ground) to pin #17 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #6 (ground) to pin #18 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#3 injector Pin #4 (ground) to pin #19 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #8 (ground) to pin #20 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#5 injector Pin #1 (ground) to pin #21 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #5 (ground) to pin #22 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#8 injector Pin #3 (ground) to pin #23 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #7 (ground) to pin #24 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

Troubleshoot injector coils: Unplug the injector and ohm the pins. Ohm range .6 to 1.0 ohms at test pins 1&2(open coil) and 3&4 (close coil). The pins are numbered on the plug. Test at ambient air temp. Be advised these pins are small and hard to get on cleanly without touching the probes on the other pins.​

Just to add some "detail" since yours is a later model year (06).

Plug C1388a (end plug nearest the firewall) services injectors 1,4,6, and 7

Plug C1388c (plug nearest the degas bottle) services injectors 2,3,5, and 8

Good info. Thanks for posting.



^^ This test should give you your answer. Wouldn't shock me at all if it ends up being some bum injectors instead of the FICM though...

Keep us updated on your findings!

-jokester

Hope you don't mind, but I found a few conflicts with your pin numbers, so I re-did them a bit and matched it to the Electrical manual and FICM manual:

FICM plug, injector wiring (to and from FICM plug), and injector testing (0.8-1 ohms is good):​

C1388a (end plug nearest firewall): 1, 4, 6, 7​

#1 injector Pin #2 (ground) to pin #19 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #5 (ground) to pin #20 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#4 injector Pin #1 (ground) to pin #23 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #6 (ground) to pin #24 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#6 injector Pin #4 (ground) to pin #21 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #7 (ground) to pin #22 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#7 injector Pin #3 (ground) to pin #17 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #8 (ground) to pin #18 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

C1388b (middle plug): 2, 3, 5, 8​

#2 injector Pin #2 (ground) to pin #17 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #6 (ground) to pin #18 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#3 injector Pin #4 (ground) to pin #19 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #8 (ground) to pin #20 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#5 injector Pin #1 (ground) to pin #21 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #5 (ground) to pin #22 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

#8 injector Pin #3 (ground) to pin #23 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Open coil Pin #7 (ground) to pin #24 (power) should have .8-1 ohms: Close coil​

Troubleshoot injector coils: Unplug the injector and ohm the pins. Ohm range .6 to 1.0 ohms at test pins 1&2(open coil) and 3&4 (close coil). The pins are numbered on the plug. Test at ambient air temp. Be advised these pins are small and hard to get on cleanly without touching the probes on the other pins.​

Hey I'm glad you put it in that format since using my phone and notebook scratching problem did get something mis-counted pin holes. I don't have a electrical book for my truck and thinking I may need to get one since I love the heifer!!!! Looks good

Ok, after pulling the whole loom out and testing through the injectors sorta one by one using my dowel rod as verification while using a known good plug to injector, I have all 8 injectors working during the test if plugged into one of the working plugs so I'm about 99% sure my ficm is the true root cause of the problem. Only having cylinder 1,2 & 4 firing isn't a good thing when hooked up correctly. I did take the ficm back out and test the pins in it to see what it would show even though I don't know how to test without it being apart and having an oscilloscope. I have 3 common values and 5 that were all over the place so that's another reason I'm pretty sure it's my root cause.

Ed at ficmrepair rebuilt it 8 1/2 years ago for me so I guess I'm asking if there's any other place you guys would suggest or is Eds place still the way to go. NO disrespect to Ed at all just a question since there's a lot of places online that state they do it from cheap to lifetime warranty.

 

[jokester00]

Hey I'm glad you put it in that format since using my phone and notebook scratching problem did get something mis-counted pin holes. I don't have a electrical book for my truck and thinking I may need to get one since I love the heifer!!!! Looks good

Ok, after pulling the whole loom out and testing through the injectors sorta one by one using my dowel rod as verification while using a known good plug to injector, I have all 8 injectors working during the test if plugged into one of the working plugs so I'm about 99% sure my ficm is the true root cause of the problem. Only having cylinder 1,2 & 4 firing isn't a good thing when hooked up correctly. I did take the ficm back out and test the pins in it to see what it would show even though I don't know how to test without it being apart and having an oscilloscope. I have 3 common values and 5 that were all over the place so that's another reason I'm pretty sure it's my root cause.

Ed at ficmrepair rebuilt it 8 1/2 years ago for me so I guess I'm asking if there's any other place you guys would suggest or is Eds place still the way to go. NO disrespect to Ed at all just a question since there's a lot of places online that state they do it from cheap to lifetime warranty.

I'd just give Ed a call and see what he'll do for ya first. What FICM package level did you get on the FICM the 1st go-round? If Ed can't do anything for ya, either go with him again or give Circuit Board Medics a call. Last I heard, they were doing a FICM swap with a 5yr warranty for $250 + shipping. Where are you located? That might factor in my decision as well if you need the truck up and running quickly

-jokester

 

[Darbyf250]

I'd just give Ed a call and see what he'll do for ya first. What FICM package level did you get on the FICM the 1st go-round? If Ed can't do anything for ya, either go with him again or give Circuit Board Medics a call. Last I heard, they were doing a FICM swap with a 5yr warranty for $250 + shipping. Where are you located? That might factor in my decision as well if you need the truck up and running quickly

-jokester

I had a atlas 40 in the first rebuild by Ed. I'm trying to get in touch with him currently but guessing he's busy. Thanks for the suggestions too because It's tough for me to trust some online places that I haven't heard good things about. I'm in Columbus Mississippi area.

 

[bismic]

Also, CircuitBoardMedics has been very reliable and moderately priced.

 

[jokester00]

If you can't get ahold of FICM Repair, here are links to CBM's options.

Option 1 If you need the truck soon:
Ford 6.0 Powerstroke FICM Replacement - Super Duty Trucks (circuitboardmedics.com)

Option 2 if you can send it off and wait for a repair/return:
6.0 Powerstroke FICM Repair - FICM Programming Upgrade (circuitboardmedics.com)

 

[Darbyf250]

Guys, I got to talk with Ed at Ficmrepair for some time this evening going over things and he told me that it sounds like my ficm driver board has issues. So, I guess I'm getting the wife to mail it off tomorrow to get it repaired and upgraded. I'll still let everyone know how it goes when it returns unless someone close by has one until that time. lol

 

[Darbyf250]

Update: so I got my ficm installed back in yesterday and my truck started up an idled. I shut it off and went to see my dad who’s in the hospital then came back about 5 hrs later an it started right up with no issues. This morning at 70 degrees it also started on the first rotation it seems with no issues an idled before work. I did have two clips broken on my ficm plugs so I zip tied all three of them in with huge HVAC ties so they can’t come out.

Thanks to all that helped me with valuable information.

 

[jokester00]

Update: so I got my ficm installed back in yesterday and my truck started up an idled. I shut it off and went to see my dad who’s in the hospital then came back about 5 hrs later an it started right up with no issues. This morning at 70 degrees it also started on the first rotation it seems with no issues an idled before work. I did have two clips broken on my ficm plugs so I zip tied all three of them in with huge HVAC ties so they can’t come out.

Thanks to all that helped me with valuable information.

Good deal! Glad it's fixed.

I've also heard of guys taking a ~10-12" section of 5/8" heater hose that has been sliced lengthways all the way down the side, and then smooshing it it in half. This will fit under the broken FICM plugs and sit against the valve cover/rocker box area under the plugs. When you bolt the FICM down, it will keep the plugs stationary and keep them from coming unseated.

-jokester

 

[Darbyf250]

I've got some hose laying around so might do that as well to get a second degree of protection from a zip tie sliding off or something in a rough environment. Trucks got 5 weeks till it gets 1100 mile one way trip to cold country to hunt so hopefully I have all the bugs worked out by then.

 

[6LiterTeter]

I've got some hose laying around so might do that as well to get a second degree of protection from a zip tie sliding off or something in a rough environment. Trucks got 5 weeks till it gets 1100 mile one way trip to cold country to hunt so hopefully I have all the bugs worked out by then.

I’m in commercial AV and have lots of velcro for tying things down in equipment racks. I cut 2x20 inch strips and pulled them tight around the bottom/over top of the ficm housing. One for the two rear connectors and one for the larger one closest the degas bottle.

I forgot my belt the other day and cut a strip in a pinch. Kept all of “that” in so hoping it’ll hold the plugs in the ficm.

 

[Darbyf250]

Well guys I just ran into a issue that I’m not sure what to think of. While riding around making sure my trucks running good. I lost communication with numerous pids all at the same time. When this happened my motor started running really bad. I dropped it into 2 to get rpm’s up which smoothed it out some or enough to get home at least. I tried several different ways to get connected with them again but wasn’t able to. I then tried to uninstall my bully dog tuner an it will not complete that process so I’m sorta stuck thinking my tuner is corrupted. I checked all the pcm plugs an wires but they seem fine. Any ideas about what I should do next? Order new SCT tuner or think I’ll have to get Ford to reflash it?

 

[jokester00]

Check your batteries and make sure they're good. Low juice does all kind of stupid things...


Also make sure your FICM plugs are still seated properly.

-jokester

 

[Darbyf250]

I have a solid 12 volts that holds koeo and 49.5 main power. Checked all the plugs they’re good. Hooked up my laptop to see if I could communicate by usb an sure enough I could see the pids once again. Looks like my Bluetooth obd2 connector failed somehow. bismic may be right about the injectors. I have #3 dropping in an out causing my issue of bad running. Going to contact the injector supplier and work something out possibly. Things going to drive me crazy before it’s over with.