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max rpm on a mechanicaly stock 6.4

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26K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  elibenson  
#1 ·
im sure this question has been asked repeatedly but for some reason when you use "max" or "rpm" as a search qualifier on the forum search it returns that the word is too small to search.

But before i load any spartan race tunes and go and play. what is the maximum rpm under load that a mechanically stock 6.4 should be operated at.

its my understanding that the only tunes with factory safeties still in place are the non race tunes 210hp and less (no dpf and dpf) and every thing above 210hp has no defueling on safety parameters.

the spartan config file has the rpm warning set to 3200. and i would hit this warning on an untuned motor still running the factory tune at the top of the shifts at WOT. running the 210 im still into the warning on the shifts. but i would like to know what the stock redline is so when i load the race tune im within my safety margin.
 
#5 ·
unless you have modified the valve train to handle higher rpms. i would try to stay near the stock rpm +/- 200 rpm . it seems that most of the broken parts from over revs comes in the way of bent rods. these motors seem to float a little easy. i just couldn't find any info on what the stock redline was and didn't have the fore sight to take it to the line before i tuned it.
 
#6 ·
i dont want to receive any flak about my "floats easily" comment so i decided to clarify it a little. i do think that this is one of the most robust powerstrokes to date and that most of the hearsay that i hear is that most of the broken parts happen at rpms above 4200 (havent seen any data logged yet just someone saying they hit 4200 and heard a noise) and that any stock diesel that can hit 4000rpm and still make power is very respectable in anyone's book.
 
#7 ·
My job 1 6.4 shifts at 3800 rpm with the spartan 275 v4. So does that mean that theres something wrong with the tune? Always thought that was high, but if 3700 is the max then this has me worried.
 
#8 ·
i think nutty needs to answer that one.

but heres my two copper Abrahams.

i would say that the 275 is a race tune and is probably designed to shift at a different power curve and profile. and that the engine is already defueling before it hits 3800 and the trans is shifting and lessening the needed torque from the engine so the 3800 rev is a by product of a slow defueling and the lessened torque. and the engine isn't under full fueled load at that rpm and that the cylinder pressures probably arent high enough to cause any valve float.

i would also assume that being a race tune. it is designed to run on a slightly modified motor (that can handle more rpm, more heat, has had the appropriate measures and equipment added to keep it running cool and strong with a hotter tune) as well as a stock 6.4 (that you will need to pay greater attention to, so you do not over rev, overheat, or run beyond its parameters and be diligently aware of how your engine is running).

i don't think that if some one plugs the 275 or 310 in to their computer should expect their truck with a bone stock 6.4 and an exhaust to do back to back WOT runs from red light to red light all day long with out breaking something

on a side note breaking things isnt all that bad because you get to replace them with bigger badder cooler stuff
 
#9 ·
Interesting thread.. :popcorn:
 
#10 ·
If it makes any difference, I had the v3 and it shifted at 3400 rpm which I thought to be perfect, but it surged badly when just cruising around so I upgraded to the v4. Many others have said that with the v4 their truck shifted at a lower rpm then the v3. This leads me to believe that there might be something wrong here, especially if 3700 rpm is the supposed max.
 
#16 ·
3700 is what Ford set the max RPM at. It has nothing to do with Spartan's tuning. According to Matt@Spartan, the 275 tune is limited to 4200 rpms. I know that this is true. I have been there once. When I hit the rev limiter, it made the most spectacular *BANG*. Kind of like a rifle rapport. Scared the sh!t out of me. I let out immediately, and found that it was making a lot of noise after I slowed down. I thought for sure the bang was the sound of rods protruding through my block. After I returned to idle, the engine was still running,which realistically wouldn't happen if I had broken any rods. It did however have the dreaded popping-out-the-intake problem. Turns out that it was only a bent rocker arm.
 
#12 ·
is your valve train stock? that's cool that its a documented number though. ive only had people say that they hit 4200(or what ever they claimed when it happened) and next the motor had a tap
 
#14 ·
Well, what would be the changes that need to be made to increase the RPM potential.
 
#15 ·
don't know exactly what is available for the 6.4 or who may be carrying the parts (i know elite diesel engineering carries some). but start with valve springs and push rods. if you remove the heads and feel like dropping a few grand, do over sized valves and porting and if you go that far you will need a upgraded turbo, larger CAC, bigger injectors and higher volume hpfp and nutty writing you tunes as he sleeps (if he's not doing that already. personally, i dint think he gets any sleep :wink[3]:).

but unless your pulling or in competition its a waste of money to get 1-2k more rpm for the street. you'd have a $50k truck with another $20-30K of mods and 100's of hour of time that would get its doors blown off by some school boy's 454 chevelle.