yes the truck has oil, the dipstick reads full

 

Have you tried to pour a little oil in the filter housing to help it prime?

 

That won't do what your thinking

The anti-drain valve in the filter base should not allow it
and the filter drain would have to be held closed

About the only way would be to pull the filter base off, exposing the oil port -- and pouring oil down that

The pump is likely worn or the suction tube leaking -- is why it wont prime
this is an 18 gallon pump anyways, so it should fill the filter base pretty quick ,even with the drain valve open

 

i thought doing that was to prime the HPOP system?

 

My problem now is the low pressure oil pump is not working. It was before i did the repair, now its not.

 

Why were you "testing" the base oil in the first place?

 

Pouring oil in the filter housing will not prime the HPOP at all. With thre filter out it should allow some oil to flow back to the LPOP to help prime it.

That said, it shouldn't be necessary.

 

I was testing the base oil pressure to begin with because of a slow building icp, then i went to air tests.
when i did the base oil pressure test it filled the oil housing in prob 5 - 10 secs with the drain valve closed.
It wasn't the best in the world but, I just find it weird that after I replaced the nipple cup o rings and injector orings.
The low pressure oil pump just didn't work anymore.
I was planning on doing the low pressure oil pump anyway, just thought that literally after that repair with no miles on the truck just trying to get it to crank, that it stopped working.

 

Really the only meaningful test for the low pressure pump is done with a gauge -- there is one other that is not talked about much involving checking for air bubbles/frothing -- using a hose, valve and tee setup

The regulator valve(75psi) returns back to the pump inlet -- so when you took it out, the oil was allowed to drain back to the pan -- a weak pump likely would not be able to pull up from the pan

Side clearance is very important on a gerotor pump -- scarring is usually the damage(foreign objects)

If/when you put in a new pump, be sure to lube it before putting on the cover -- even some light grease is good, just no globs

 

I pulled my low pressure oil pump gears, and they were destroyed. Worse than anything I have seen online. Surprised it would even start before, should I pull the oil cooler and check the screen under it? Or would the oil filter have caught anything trying to go in there? I have to replace the front cover along with the gears.

 

you check your lifters ?

 

I pulled the oil cooler to check the screen under it. If I had lifter failure, would there be metal shavings in the screen under the oil cooler?

 

not my favorite guy but

 

Can you post a picture of the LPOP gears, the LPOP cover, and the front cover.

Sometimes you can tell what went through it by the indentations on those components.

 

see if this works

 

5 more pictures

 

Maybe I missed it, but why did you pull the pump in the 1st place? Were you having issues?

Are you the original owner? If not, maybe the damage was done prior to you owning the truck...? If you are the original owner, i wouldn't rest easy until I figured it out. That pump is dinged up pretty bad...

-jokester

 

No I am prob the 4th owner, I had a long crank cold prob about 5 - 7 secs. I started with a low pressure oil test, jumping the starter at the battery with the wire and watching the oil bowl fill. It took prob 10 seconds at least. I did an air test and it sounded like I had a nipple cup/ injector leaking. The truck would still start at this point. I tore it down and replaced the nipple cup seals and injector orings. Tried to prime the system and the icp wouldnt build. I did another low pressure oil test and it would not fill the bowl at all, not a drop. I have read that a weak pump if the oil is pushed out of it wont be able to get the system going again. Tore the low pressure oil pump out and found the damage. Today I took the oil cooler out, and the Hpop. Both were super clean. I looked at the rear lifters i could see under the Hpop and those looked fine. However the Hpop cover had a chuck of the aluminum where the oil drain tube for the turbo goes missing. Tomorrow I am going to strain the engine oil with a magnet to see if anything is in the oil. I have seen online that lifter failure symptoms are a knocking noise from the intake or exhaust as you turn the engine over, however I dont have any noise like that. The truck has been worked on quite a bit before me, with a certain level of ignorance. I found previously that one of the dummy plugs was not done when that job was performed, so both stand pipes and 1 dummy plug were upgraded. I have fixed that issue, along with many others.

 

All that being said the injectors were done right before I bought the truck about 15,000 miles ago. It has always had the long start cold. Most of the miles I have put on it were towing a 34' camper all over western united states.

 

I dont know how long ago it was studded and deleted, but that is done. The truck while I was traveling was getting 12- 15 mpg towing the camper. So in my opinion it ran really good.

 

Were you getting normal oil pressure gauge response in the instrument cluster when cranking or was it slow to come up ??

Dan

 

The gauge wouldnt ever rise until the truck would start. Diesel tech ron says thats normal though as that sensor is low on the voltage totem pole.

 

I wouldn't say it is normal, but it does happen.

IMO one of those indentations does look like it was from a needle bearing.

 

Has me wondering since it has always had the long crank, perhaps the gear damage was old. I guess I will replace the gears and see if it will crank back up and listen for failed lifter symptoms.

 

If your gonna try the old gears, smear gun grease on the surfaces and just a little gob between the gears, before putting the cover back on -- this should help prime the pump -- over filling the oil level will also help -- a couple of gallons, you can always drain some back out if the engine will start

I would suggest there is a lifter gone, but I didn't see the telltale marks on the gears -- I have had timing gears chip up and cause those kind of marks tho -- you can see down in the gears since you have the hpop cover off

With the marks and low base oil pressure, I would be concerned with the rod and main bearings -- those chunks should have got stuck in the filter, always a good idea to open the filter up and take a look at each oil change

Since the oil pressure "gauge" has been coming up slow, is when the metal damage happened -- but you say your 4th owner -- so hard to tell exactly when that happened

A real oil pressure gauge and fuel pressure gauge should be a requirement for every one of these trucks -- a lot of the usual problems could be noticed before there is real damage done