Just have to ask...the senders were OEM, right? Don't use aftermarket sensors on this rig.

Pull the relief valve at the bottom near the crank shaft pulley. See if it comes out smooth and not bound up or stuck.

Skip to 6:10 in the video...

-jokester

 

If it happens to be stripped threads where the pressure switch is installed - Solution is a fitting with longer threads:

6.4 and 6.0 Powerstroke Oil Pressure Sensor Adapter

This 6.4 / 6.0 Powerstroke oil pressure sensor adapter is equipped with threads longer than those on the OEM sensor. Order this repair adapter today!

www.accuratediesel.com

 

OEM Motorcraft sensor, oil pressure relief valve seemed fine to me, no junk and smooth. The oil comes straight up through the connector pin in the center. took it out and am able to blow right through it.

 

The pressure switch was junk -- put a gauge on the system to be sure the pressure is not over 75 -- elsewise get the oil switch from a different vendor
Sadly, just because it came from a Ford dealer, does not mean it is actually a Ford sanctioned product -- they have not made parts for these trucks for a long time
Can't say how many times I have seen re-packaged parts at work -- sometimes it is as easy as peel the sticker off and look at the sticker underneath

BTW: that is not a sensor - just a switch that trips at 5-7 psi

 

-- put a gauge on the system to be sure the pressure is not over 75 --

Yeah ....... or you might be replacing the front seal.

 

Crazy how some people have problems with it, and mine has never been. 237k miles (almost)

 

I am looking for a good gauge pack now. I have a CTS 3 in the truck now but all the pids are used up. I think I am going to pull the cooler out of it and convert it to air to oil because the temps keep getting about 20deg different in delta and sometimes like 30deg higher. Its a Ford cooler straight from them that was new with the engine build. Go fast trucks are a PIA.

 

The cooler came from a Ford dealership?

 

Yep the cooler and all sensors, really anything that are not speed parts did because we get a shop discount. The engine is a KDD stage 2 with Odawg S3R, KC stage2 190/75 Warren and all coolers I made up for max flow.

 

What coolant have you been using?

 

We run race water wetter style in all vehicles

 

Ok so I was able to get a gauge on the oil cap because my cap has a 1/8npt fitting and at idle it bounces around from 60-90 back and forth. I can only assume that up at 4k it must be a fair amount higher. I really don't think throwing parts at it is a good idea but any thoughts on a pressure relief valve?

 

You have a regulator that should keep it no higher than 90-100 range. Sounds like it is sticking.

 

Take a picture of that oil cap please

your oil regulator is set to 75psi -- it may go over that a little with cold oil -- but usually these trucks when the oil is heated is quite a bit less

 

What would the cap have to do with oil pressure that is too high?

 

I have had no luck getting pics on here(guess not it savy) but it is a Sinister cap.

 

Wondering if cheap dirty oil could make it do that. It is some heavy truck oil (15/40) I through in it because that's all I could get in no man's land when I changed it. Now that the truck has some miles on it I was going to change over to 5/40 like I ran in it before the rebuild if I can get it. Pretty scarce nowadays around here.

 

To me, it is most likely to be a regulator issue as I posted, but he doesn't seem concerned about it. Anyway, I hear you on sinister products.

 

I will try again tomorrow for a vid to youtube. Yeah was wondering about the gauge and the cap was Free off a part out truck. I did order an Oil relief valve and hope that is all it is.

 

I have gauges in my tool kit that I trust -- and others used for general testing and beating around -- I suggest using a different gauge (some of the auto parts stores carry them)

May be worth the time to pull the regulator and fish in the hole with a magnet in case something is hanging the regulator piston

 

Ok, so back to the truck. I pulled the oil pressure regulator and fished around in it no metal. I am using Areomotive liquid filled race car gages with remote sensor blocks so the sensors dont have to much heat and vibration. Now onto the rest, I changed the oil and filter to 5-30 shell synthetic and installed a Brand new from Ford pressure relief valve. The oil pressure is higher now by about 20psi. At startup(100deg or so) the oil pressure in at 95 psi idle. I let the truck warm up what I can but only gets to about 170 deg when I flog the **** out of it.Then the pressure. Will drop to 60 psi idle but will still go way above 80psi when I drive it. Thinking of making a whole new cooler setup for it.

 

My truck will go 100psi on cold T6 5-40W no problem just driving around. Once it warms up a bit the pressure drops down and you can see the 75psi pressure relief is doing it’s job. Mine does not fluctuate at all, just rises and falls with RPM as one would expect.

 

My truck will go 100psi on cold T6 5-40W no problem just driving around. Once it warms up a bit the pressure drops down and you can see the 75psi pressure relief is doing its job. Mine does not fluctuate at all, just rises and falls with RPM as one would expect.

That is not the way I read that. If you are at 100 and it warms up to drop at or below 75, that's not the regulator finally doing its job; that's the viscosity of the oil dropping.

If you go back to 2011, guys on the Diesel Garage talked about this.

03 6.0 Engine Oil Pressure Too High???

When my engine is cold I have noticed the oil pressure reaches upwards of 100psi at the test port. To keep the oil pressure from going too high, I keep the RPMs under 2000 until the engine warms up. I was reading in the 6.0 bible that the oil pressure regulator is supposed to open when the...

www.thedieselgarage.com

Whoever designed this at Nav did not do a good job. There is not enough bypass. If you are going to regulate to 70-75psi, that should be the max you ever see. I've got the same issue with my truck.

 

That is pretty much what my truck does but "really" stay around 80 psi idle and 100 psi plus like 1500 rpms under 160deg. My oil temp only gets up to about 170 deg as it is and I need to "Work" the truck pretty hard for that. With the new cooler I am building temps should never see above 150deg.

 

150f is way to cold. Need 215’F to burn out moisture and keep the oil clean and acid down. Unless your building something custom and plan to dump your oil often.

 

The oil temperature sensor is after the oil cooler. The oil will be significantly hotter in the crankcase/pan. That said, I wouldn't like to see it that cool either.

 

Well the engine only has 10K miles on it and was built to be a "hot street" truck. Maybe the new build and pump is just that tight that it is making the pressure just that high. It has a WDI billet LPOP. When I talked with the Shell rep at ODSS when in Petersburg Va last year he said optimal temp was in the mid to high 150s deg.

 

I think the posts in the thread might have been a bit different if the WDI LPOP had been part of your first post. Not a lot of people walking in your shoes.

Did you talk to the Shell rep about type/viscosity of oil to use?

 

Did you talk to the Shell rep about type/viscosity of oil to use?

Yeah, so when I talked with him He suggested I use the new 5w30 Multi-vehicle oil they have out but was unable to get that when I fired up the engine for the first time. So I used the next best 10w30 diesel oil. I didn't have the gauges in the truck then and just had the CTS2 with EGT sensors in each manifold. All was well for about 8K miles and then started getting leaks from everywhere after I changed the oil the sec time at 8K. I have all those fixed now.

I did build it with the bearings in the higher "tightness" range; cam, rod, crank.

When the engine was built I had the crank turned, CP Carillo hybrid rods/pistons, and the entire bottom end was both independently balanced for matching weight and then assembly balanced with billet flex plate and ATI Super Damper hence a very tight bottom end. This should all be fine and fixed with the relief of the factory sensors/switches for good sensors that will be in the new oil plate and front cover setup with a belt-driven oil pump. When I get all that set up I will get my wife to help me do a video and some pics to load. Going to get a set of the new Icon heads from Jared here in a couple weeks so will put it all together and do A write up with everything and put it in the performance section.

 

Ok my statement should have been that’s normal for the under sized Bypass port. The regulator is doing its job it’s just that with the thicker viscosity oil it simply can’t dypass enough to maintain 75psi on cold oil. This has been the case on every engine I have built. In fact I think my Kohler efi engine is the only engine I have had a oil pressure gauge that regulates at 40psi. No matter what oil or cold - warm it’s 40psi.