well generally, the 1st year of any diesel motor/trans will be a learning curve for the manufacturer and then for the owners.

 

@Spaknives - Geez, the engine is just broken in

To check:
- does it have new exhaust components? If so, walk away. PO did the DEF delete, with a chip mod and that probably blew the turbo. Also means the engine may be also on the way out. These trucks come with lifetime SS exhausts.
- check the shocks, springs, and transmission play. Drive and park the truck on an incline. Did it roll a whole bunch? Shifting ok?
- if it's 4WD, check when the front locking hubs were serviced.
- are they willing to give it at least a years warranty?
- when were the brakes last serviced?

 

As stated above the early models had growing pains, most say stay away from pre April 2011 builds so look at the door tag it will state the build date if your not near the dealership call and ask them to let you know the date on the door tag, blown turbos on the 11-14 trucks were common they were a weak turbo with bad bearings from the factory but had zero turbo lag the 15+ turbos are a direct replacement and not a sequential turbo so they can handle much higher boost pressures than the 11-14s could. Just do your normal checks on the vehicle and the build date is just a guide any vehicle built any day can have issues minor or major especially when buying used, but knowing it’s a early or late build helps some in there decision as the early models did have valve issues.

 

As stated, the early 11s had some problems. If it's after the date of the valve issues and you can get it for a decent price I wouldn't be afraid of it. I drive the snot out of mine and it hasn't given me any problems. Just oil and fuel filter changes. Had the water pump go on me, but that was within 2 weeks of owning it and the dealer replaced it free and clear.

 

Hey all,
I have been wanting a ford diesel for some time now. My local dealership just got in a 2011 F350 lariat. I test drove it yesterday and it seems to run very nice. The salesman told me that when it came in it had a bad turbo, so they put a new one on it. He pulled the oasis report and all seemed to be general maintenance items. There was oil changes, a leak, and a ball joint. Nothing to major. I do not have the actual born date of the truck yet so I don't know if it is an early model 2011 or later model. The truck has 81150 miles on it. I hear some say don't touch the 2011's and others say they have 300,000 miles on one.
What do y'all think? Thanks for any help.

@Spaknives - Geez, the engine is just broken in <img src="http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

To check:
- does it have new exhaust components? If so, walk away. PO did the DEF delete, with a chip mod and that probably blew the turbo. Also means the engine may be also on the way out. These trucks come with lifetime SS exhausts.
- check the shocks, springs, and transmission play. Drive and park the truck on an incline. Did it roll a whole bunch? Shifting ok?
- if it's 4WD, check when the front locking hubs were serviced.
- are they willing to give it at least a years warranty?
- when were the brakes last serviced?

Thanks everyone for the input.
The dealership did just get back to me and said it was built in December of 2010. That is a little earlier than I had hoped. When I drove it everything I looked at seemed to be stuck, but I will have to check and make sure.
When you say they had valve issue is that the glow plug issue I have read about where the glow plug may break off in the cylinder. Or is there other valve issues?
So is December 2010 to early? I was kinda getting my Hope's up for this, but now I am pretty nervous about buying a lemon.

 

Find a later build date like 2013ish and newer. The 2011's gave ford a very bad name with the failure rates:

poor material used in bearings for turbo, glow plugs braking and eating a cylinder, sensors and dpf/eef system failures, lifter/valve mechanical failures eating the engine, coolant system leaks esp with radiators, The newer series of 6.7L are making big waves in reliability. but, the 2011's were not a good year plain and simple. Late 2012's and up had some changes and it seemed by 2013/2014 they had it all figured out.

 

Well I don't like the sound of that, seeing as I how I bought a 2011 with 165k on it! LOL
Honestly, I had the same worries as you. If you can get it well below Blue Book, buy GAP insurance, and everything feels tight, then go for it. That being said, these trucks are nice but not really "rare" so there is no harm in just being patient and waiting for a low mile 2012-14 to come up.

It really just depends on your budget. But I agree, if it looks to have been modded and then put back to "stock" to sell, I would run in the other direction screaming.....

Cheers!

 

Hahaha opened a small can of worms here ha!
So the dealership just got in a super clean 2012 6.7 with 44000 miles for about 6k more than the 2011 with 81000. The 2012 is priced at 39,900 and is a lariat. It is reaching the edge of my budget. However it is so clean 100% bone stock and I know the previous owner who is very anal about maintenance so it is probably worth the extra $$. I have expressed some of my concern of the 2011 with the dealership and they say I don't have anything to worry about and they say the 2012 is the same exact truck. The 2011 is a 350 where the 2012 is a 250. I am still not 100% sure which direction to go. If I went with the 2011 I could probably afford the ESP with it.

 

You can get 40k mile 2015 platinums for 39k. You are getting hosed.

 

I purchased my 2011 F350 in 2014 with 97K. Since, the warranty replaced a turbo and radiator. I discovered I had a bad turbo when I changed a leaky coolant/oil turbo line not covered under warranty. I believe the leaky coolant/oil contributed to the turbo failing. Afterwards I deleted (straight 4in pipe, retained the stock exhaust tip, and sounds great) and tuned the truck using Tyrant tunes. The truck is at stock height with factory wheels. I tow a 15K 5th wheel up and down steep inclines with plenty of power to spare. That said, I am looking to upgrade the rear leaf springs, to provide additional support when towing. I have never beat on any vehicle I owned and completely love this truck. As of now she has 124K on her. At times, a passing thought comes to me about upgrading to a newer truck, but I know what I have right now, all the kinks have been worked out.
Get the 2011 and make it yours!

 

I bought a new 2011 king ranch made in december 2010. Factory ordered and I took possession while it was being unloaded from the delivery truck, this way no one got to tear up the engine on a speedy test drive. Now with 50,000 miles it has been trouble free except a backup camera replacement.... Wife and I love our 2011.

 

Ford Esp Best Place to Purchase

Hey Guys,
I am wondering if someone can point me in the direction of the best, cheapest place to buy a Ford ESP? I know I seen on here a while back that someone said they knew a guy that sold these for a really good deal, but now I cant find the post. I have looked into floodford but they will only go back to I believe 2014. I am in the middle of purchasing a 2011 f350 with 81000 on it.
I have also seen that Zeigler Ford online sales these plans for a good deal. Can anyone tell me if they are legit.
Thank you!

 

https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-7-discussion-2017-2019/1294914-ford-esp-dealer-cost.html

 

This is the only online site that I've ever found that will let you play with coverage details. Joel won't sell an ESP on a 8-9 year old vehicle. You can play with years/mileage coverage and see how at what point the higher protection plans are no longer available. Example, you can only get a Premium plan for 2yrs/24k coverage.

https://www.lombardfordwarrantys.com/pricing/index.cfm

 

I purchased my 11 F250 with 280k miles. But the oil was changed every 5-7k with records. At some point the PO did a DEF and EGR delete (and there is a mini-max in there).

So far i'm at about 300k and haven't had any issue expect with the brake booster (which I have replaced twice with a motorcraft part). I think the biggest issue people thing about is pre-mature turbo failure. But again, I am rocking 300k miles now on the stock turbo. I expect to get another 100k out of the vehicle before I consider parting with it, but by then no one will probably want a 2011 with 400k miles unless it's sweet deal. I wouldn't hesitate to grab it if the price is right.

For reference-
I paid 23k for a 2011 F-250 King Ranch trim @ 281k miles - Almost bought a 2013 and then a 2016 for a few grand with 150k less miles on both, but the service records on mine are what sold the truck.

 

Definition of retard^^^^^

 

One could say the definition would be someone who uses "^^^^^" for the person above them when there is no person above them on that page.

 

With all that being said about the '11 model year, My ESP just ran out a few months back on my '11 with 116k on it. I'm thinking its time to lose some weight. I don't need any more power I just want the longevity. The EGR cooler was replaced under warranty around 70k, clogged and I had a light for a reductant heater? DPF associated I'm pretty sure. I see a lot about which tunes are best and from everything I've read I think I want to go with an EZ Lynk setup, Tyrant tunes, a block off plate with pass thru, S&B CAI or similar and a 4" stainless with muffler. Would I be wasting money on all this? I don't want to replace turbo and like I said don't need any more power I tow a travel trailer and dirt bikes that hardly put any strain on this truck. I would most likely leave the truck on a mild tune and wouldn't mind if it sounded a little more like a diesel but don't need it to be too loud especially at speed towing. Thanks Jason

 

I did everything except, I used SCT with Tyrant tunes which was less expensive for me over EZ Lynk. I used a 4in Flo Pro pipe replacing the DEF, leaving the stock tail pipe in place. For me, I love the sound. Do your self a favor and take a peak at the coolant and oil lines and fittings that run to the turbo. If they begin to leak or are leaking already, that much less coolant and oil will be supplied to the turbo. Lastly, I tow a 15K 5th wheel with the set up and love it.

 

rcg270, Yup I replaced the oil line and both fittings already and have the coolant line on hand. I noticed an oil leak and found some help on here. Someone told me it was a 30 minute fix, they must do it every day cause I had a time getting my hand down and in to thread the bottom jiffy tite fitting threaded in.