Thank you for this write up, and the organization. Too many people (including myself) just do walls of text and it's so hard to navigate. I'll try my best to help where I can

1. Are you planning on getting new heads or just play it by ear? I would recommend KDD o ringed cast heads. If you keep your old heads, don't machine them unless you are 100% sure of the history. Ford also says to not machine them anyways.
2. Remote oil cooler - very good idea. You should probably do this, along with the flush at the same time. I'm partial to the oil to coolant cooler, while others like the air to oil. I think the OEM design is great, although remote mounting makes it easy to get a coolant filter before the oil cooler. I would not do #14, and instead get an IPR coolant filter to go along with a BPD oil cooler relocation kit.
3. Resist the urge for as long as you can lol
4 and 5, good plan.
6. Not entirely sure what that is
7. From what I hear, it's a good modification. The 5R110 is a very good transmission, so I wouldn't put this on high priority.
8. I wouldn't. Unless you are going for a certain color under the hood, it looks like it's difficult to see the coolant level
9 and 10, agreed
11. Definitely overkill lol. I constantly monitor fuel pressure, ICP PSI, IPR%, battery voltage, FICM main power, FICM logic power, VGT, EOT, ECT. I don't mess with the MAF, EBP, MAP, or coolant pressure. I will be adding an EGT gauge though, so definitely watch those.
12 and 13, agreed. I run rotella ELC
15. For fuel additives, optilube xdp. The quality is there, and it can last a while too
18 and 19. Essential to keeping fuel system in good working order.
23. This never even crossed my mind. I look forward to seeing how you do it, and if you like it.
24. I'm a fan of the stock CCV. Others have pointed out the need for it to be under vacuum for it to work properly. This can' the accomplished if you vent it to atmosphere.

Hope this can help a bit. At the end of the day, we are all clueless or were clueless at some point. Another thing. Buy OEM parts only, unless the aftermarket part exceeds OEM quality.

 

Thank you for the response and info. I updated some of the list above based on your feedback. I'll do what I can to keep this updated. LOL everything is taking me about 10 times as long as a normal person. After finding and losing things several times I'm trying to compile a "book" of everything. Posts, articles, manuals, and records of maintenance going forward. Every single Mod or change, (possible and complete mods, pro's and cons), etc.

But to answer your questions.

• #1 through #9 I am putting off until something breaks even though it is a question of "when" not "if". Mainly due to money like anything. Most of those I'll take it to a shop. I'm not dumb enough to think I can do those alone. I appreciate the info on the heads. That is the first time I recall the o-rings (you and this forum yesterday). Adding it to the "book".
• I'll be prioritizing the remote oil cooler and IPR cooler as well.
  • #6 the Fuel Pump fittings. I saw that when I started and lost the link but it was basically getting improved seals on the Fuel system. I bet it was someone who had an issue and thought everyone did.
  • #7 - Yes, Low priority. If $ makes sense I'll do it when the Trans Fluid gets changed. Had a shop it out a few years back and wished I'd know about it then.
  • Great call out on #8 - Obvious once you said it but focused more on something less likely to break at the moment.
• On 23, I think I'm going to replace the lower outlet in the center dash and leave the higher up one as a standard Cig Lighter outlet (options are good). Did this in another car with a friend and it was great. I'm also adding a USB under the Dash on the left of the driver by the Hood and E-brake release. Just to have an outlet for the Tablet with Torque Pro. Should help with less Wire mess and it looks like all the wiring is there to easily tap into.

I'm just amazed that all the infamous 6.0 issues really boil down to a handful of relatively "minor" things. Everybody dogs on them so much you think they spontaneously combust and are possessed by the devil.

 

Thank you for the response and info. I updated some of the list above based on your feedback. I'll do what I can to keep this updated. LOL everything is taking me about 10 times as long as a normal person. After finding and losing things several times I'm trying to compile a "book" of everything. Posts, articles, manuals, and records of maintenance going forward. Every single Mod or change, (possible and complete mods, pro's and cons), etc.

But to answer your questions.

• #1 through #9 I am putting off until something breaks even though it is a question of "when" not "if". Mainly due to money like anything. Most of those I'll take it to a shop. I'm not dumb enough to think I can do those alone. I appreciate the info on the heads. That is the first time I recall the o-rings (you and this forum yesterday). Adding it to the "book".
• I'll be prioritizing the remote oil cooler and IPR cooler as well.
  • #6 the Fuel Pump fittings. I saw that when I started and lost the link but it was basically getting improved seals on the Fuel system. I bet it was someone who had an issue and thought everyone did.
  • #7 - Yes, Low priority. If $ makes sense I'll do it when the Trans Fluid gets changed. Had a shop it out a few years back and wished I'd know about it then.
  • Great call out on #8 - Obvious once you said it but focused more on something less likely to break at the moment.
• On 23, I think I'm going to replace the lower outlet in the center dash and leave the higher up one as a standard Cig Lighter outlet (options are good). Did this in another car with a friend and it was great. I'm also adding a USB under the Dash on the left of the driver by the Hood and E-brake release. Just to have an outlet for the Tablet with Torque Pro. Should help with less Wire mess and it looks like all the wiring is there to easily tap into.

I'm just amazed that all the infamous 6.0 issues really boil down to a handful of relatively "minor" things. Everybody dogs on them so much you think they spontaneously combust and are possessed by the devil.

Your last paragraph pretty much sums-up the 6.0 experience for owners who take the time to understand the weak points of an otherwise great engine and then take the corrective action.

Your thinking and learning! And that is what it takes to be successful with the 6.0. Good luck.

 

This is a great post.
I am also new-ish to the world of the 6.0

 

A good trick for if the truck isn't down already is to just scour all the vendors for sales and grab the stuff you plan on doing and keeping them on the shelf till you feel like tackling them. (I.E. large labor or memorial day sales, presidents day, etc.) It can take some of the sting out of those big purchases.

 

Kudos for a great thread. I’m about to do the same to my Dad’s old 03 that he left us. Just wanted to follow this thread to get some ideas.

 

There were some fairly big changes to the 04 engines. mid-year. You need to get to know the differences. Early 04's had the 03 engine. These engines have the ICP sensor behind the turbo. The late 04's had the ICP sensor relocated on the passenger valve cover, and received the wavy high pressure oil rails (among some other changes). These late 04's STILL HAD the same "round" HPOP as the 03 engines, except it was slightly "bumped up" in capacity. They are not as reliable as the 05 and up HPOPs, so if you have an issue with ICP pressure, you need to be familiar with the options for an HPOP upgrade (CNCFab or DieselSite). These HPOP's use the same J-tube discharge pipe (not the more failure prone STC fitting of the 05 and up design).

In fact, there were changes in about every model year. A 6.0L owner should get familiar with exactly which engine he/she has.

Let us know which one you have.

The Zoodad mod is of no benefit.

I like my CCV filter modification. I filter it and return it to the air intake tube. You need large hoses and a large filter to ensure low crankcase pressure.

IMO, a FICM reliability upgrade (and a Atlas 40 tune), is a good idea even if you don't have FICM issues currently. The soldering in the ones from the factory was not the best.

The best way to change to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant is to FIRST determine if your system (and oil cooler) are already clogged with solids. You need to get the system gauges FIRST, and then assess your "temperature splits" between oil and coolant temperature. If your coolant system is not fouled already, then a simple flush with distilled water will work fine. If it is heavily fouled, then you will need to use chemicals.

IMO a filter on the power steering fluid is a good idea. Lots of threads on it.

Filters - best to use Motorcraft or International or Racor (Racor is the manufacturer of the OEM oil and fuel filters). That said, you MUST (FIRST) make sure that your oil filter cap is OEM!! You MUST use OEM oil filters only with an OEM oil filter cap!

A word of caution though - you must ALSO have an OEM oil filter housing standpipe (and it MUST BE verified to be undamaged). If unsure, then replace it with an OEM one! Some aftermarket filters require the use of an "insert" into the top of the standpipe, and some aftermarket filters are not the same length as OEM. When switching to an OEM oil filter, you must remove any insert (if there has been one installed), and verify that the oil filter standpipe is undamaged and fully functional. Otherwise you can break that oil filter housing standpipe and create a potential for plastic bits getting into the oil system. As mentioned above - ENSURE that the oil filter cap is OEM, and "then and only then", should you switch/use an OEM filter.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=172905&d=1486048785

 

There were some fairly big changes to the 04 engines. mid-year. You need to get to know the differences. Early 04's had the 03 engine. These engines have the ICP sensor behind the turbo. The late 04's had the ICP sensor relocated o the passenger valve cover, and received the wavy oil rails (among some other changes). These late 04's STILL HAD the same "round" HPOP as the 03 engines, except it was slightly "bumped up" in capacity. They are not as reliable as the 05 and up HPOPs, so if you have an issue with ICP pressure, you need to be familiar with the options for an upgrade (CNCFab or DieselSite).

In fact, there were changes in about every model year. A 6.0L owner should get familiar with exactly which engine he/she has.

Let us know which one you have.

The Zoodad mod is of no benefit.

I like my CCV filter modification. I filter it and return it to the air intake tube. You need large hoses and a large filter to ensure low crankcase pressure.

IMO a FICM reliability upgrade (and a Atlas 40 tune), is a good idea even if you don't have FICM issues currently. The soldering in the ones from the factory was not the best.

The best way to change to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant is to FIRST determine if your system (and oil cooler) are already clogged with solids. You need to get the system gauges FIRST, and then assess your "temperature splits" between oil and coolant temperature. If your coolant system is not fouled already, then a simple flush with distilled water will work fine. If it is heavily fouled, then you will need to use chemicals.

IMO a filter on the power steering fluid is a good idea. Lots of threads on it.

just curious as im in a similar spot but with an 07' my delta is 9 degrees, with ford gold does that warrant chem flush and new oil cooler or just flush and replace with EC-1?
ill have the truck tore down to the EGR anyways if that matters at all.
Thanks, Corbin

 

I would just do the distilled water flush. That is all I did and I have had no problems.

 

Adding those to the list above with the notes. Thank you. I see a lot of people deferring to your experience in the posts I read.

A new question since yesterday. Late 04 model ~130K miles.

I am flushing the coolant system and trying to do it the easier way. I drained and flushed the radiator from petcock only.

• Dark Yellow coolant (like when you need to drink water) so far with no obvious debris including no sand.
• I filled the radiator with water and ran for ~10-15 minutes with coolant temp above 190 to open Thermostat and displace more coolant.

When idling to warm it up for the flush do you need to watch deltas that closely?
My Deltas fluctuated between 2 and 12 degrees. I would think with the thermostat not opened, coolant would not flow and Deltas could fluctuate significantly depending on RPM's and many other variables at that moment. Also, water having different heat exchange properties than coolant would also have an effect.

• I was idling in the driveway and revving the engine anywhere between 800 and 2500 RPM's.
  • Of course, the higher deltas when I revved higher. At Op Temp I was revving to about 1500 - 2000 rpm consistently to maintain 190 degree plus temps.
• Just Idling (no driving)
  • Truck was boxed in by fences on 3 sides. Enough to barely open doors to get in on sides and about 4-5 feet behind the back of the truck was the closed, solid gate (so not a lot of air flow). The outside Temp at the time was about 68 degrees. If any of that matters.

I'm probably getting ahead of myself and just need to finish the flush before jumping to conclusions.

 

We might need to keep in mind the circumstances by which there is a 9 degree delta. Speed, ambient temp, etc. 9 degrees unloaded is normal under many circumstances.

 

I am in agreement with you on this! Ford clearly states that the 15 degree differential is a maximum - at high engine load.

Some people however think that it is ok to be below 15 degrees at moderate engine loads, and above 15 degrees when working the engine hard (like heavy towing). Specifically stated by Ford is to achieve maximum boost and watch the differential at throttle tip-out.

That said, replacing an oil cooler when you are only at 15 degrees for a very, very short time is probably not absolutely required, as long as oil temperatures are reasonable. For me, I like to be conservative in most things.

My opinion is that keeping oil temperatures relatively low (below say 215) is helpful to engine longevity.

 

Thanks guys. Going out to do the second flush now. Between everything else required in life. LOL

This time I'll drive it a couple of miles on surface streets to run an errand or two. Then for round 3 after it cools. Sometime this decade anyway.

 

Ok, a few things about the flush. Take the thermostat out of the housing so you don't have to run it until it's warm. You should be replacing the thermostat anyways so it will speed things up.

You should also pull at least one block drain. The driver's side is easier to get at. If you don't you won't get enough of the old coolant out.

 

Thanks for the advice. Flushed the whole thing about 5 times but still did not get everything from the look of it. There looks to be a lot of residue in the coolant system. even after all the flushes. Found out the Thermostat was bad and replaced it.

Added the coolant by-pass filter (Mishimoto). I had to cut the hose by the heater to get the bypass fitted correctly. The instructions have a lot to be desired. All the videos say you need a 19mm socket and that you can just add the bypass without cutting any hoses. But nowhere in multiple videos did anyone use a 19mm socket. None of the other video's show having to cut the hose. If I didn't cut it, it would have shoved the vacuum valve for the heater so far back it would have kinked the hose. LOL. The cut heater hose is where a significant amount of residue was found stuck to the inside of the hose. Noticed it after I put in the new coolant. Crazy that it is there after a solid 5 flushes from the radiator and engine block. I'm no expert but the residue in there is thick enough it looks like it ran out of coolant or ran dry quite a few times or that Motorcraft Gold is really, really horrible. More horrible than anyone has every said that I've read. And I know that did not happen with me. So, it has been like this for years! Scary.

Looks like a new oil cooler is in my immediate future. Taking it to a shop for that. I do not have the time. I have to replace the front cv axles on a 4-wheeler (decided to figure these out at the same time as the truck). With new coolant in, driving around the neighborhood it was having a tough time with the oil and coolant delta. Coolant would stay between 190.4 and 194.6 while oil was around 200 - 204 for around 30 minutes.

I'm sure I'll be back here shortly to check to see if anyone else has something to add to the list as well. Buit starting a new job a week from tomorrow, so I have that long to play around with it and get something done.

 

Well, about a year later. The truck is running great after the oil cooler change. I ended up having a shop change it due to time. Have not put a huge number of miles on it as it is more for the weekends, hauling, etc.

My new project is a post made yesterday. Apparently, spring is my season to work on the truck. The air bag/spring rear is old. Installed before I bought it. one does not hold air. The bladder says Firestone Airstroke but all I find is Firestone Ride Rite. And every kit I find does not match the top bracket that is there already. I do not want to drill more holes to mount an Air Lift 5000 if someone already drilled other holes to install the old set. And I do not know if those holes were drilled. Whoever owned this truck before me did so many unknown aftermarket additions. And the guy looked like he chose some interesting parts. After this I only have the aftermarket AutoPage security and remote start that I know of anyway.

More than anything I wanted to say thank you to the members of the forum for the help answering my dumb questions. A special thanks to @mlgjellybean123 and @bismic through this entire process.

So, after this air suspension it may be maintenance and cosmetic work for a while. And I hope the post helps some others out there. If you're new to it, you'll get it and it is worth it in the end. I'm sure I'll be popping up in other spots but wanted to close this one out. I hate reading these but never hearing about how it all turned out.

@bismic - The USB to replace the cigarette lighters works really well. Especially the ones that have an off switch. Now it may be worth upgrading those to USB-c since everything is moving that way. For the tablet I got to monitor ODBII readings I'm debating an add-on 12 volt on the left side of the driver's side dash and mount a small one next to the window. But still thinking it over.

 

Glad you’re keeping another 04 on the road. No shame in having a shop do it…. Been there plenty of times.

 

Absolutely agree with the above - thank you for the followup and always nice to read about the successes!

Also, thanks for the message on USB replacement of the cigarette lighter.

 

Updated thread, closing this one

https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/p0284-or-any-contribution-balance-code.1406854/