Where are you located? You got some advice to use 0W40 oil. That was bad advice. It is too thin for 6.0
1. Change oil at 5,000 mile intervals religiously.
2. Ford recommends 15W40 that matches Ford specification WSS-M2C171-D, CI-4/SL, DHD-1. Part #XO-15W40-QSD or XO-10W30-QSD Don't go below 10W30. Engine bearings are expensive to replace. If you are up north get a block heater. Here in South Texas the cold oil viscosity is not important.
3. NEVER change the coolant to anything other than Ford Premium Gold. It is pricey but anything else will corrode holes in your oil cooler which puts oil in the cooling system. That is a royal pain to repair. Not a good thing. Ford Spec WSS-M97B51-A1, Part# VC-7-A
4. There are 2 different oil filters in the marketplace. Some aftermarket ones are taller and come with a taller cap. Using a FOMCO filter with an aftermarket cap allows oil to bypass the filter.
5. Your FICM voltage is within spec. If you have a hard-starting problem the first thing to look at are the plugs in the back of the FICM. The plastic clips that hold the plugs in have a tendency to break down in the heat of the engine compartment.
6. Speaking of heat - excessive idling damages the wiring on top of the engine, especially the injector wiring harness due to excess heat. Idling is not good for the life of the oil either.
7. I see you have a glow plug out. Not a problem if it starts. That cylinder may not kick off right away but will pick up when the engine warms for a few minutes. They are a pain to change. Here in South Texas we hardly ever need to use glow plugs. My wait to start light hardly ever came on.
8. I installed a Atoto A6 head unit in '03. It worked well.
You can download an owner's manual and the diesel supplement from Ford if you don't have them.

Wow - these are going to be never ending myths.

A 0W40 is a 40 weight oil. It is NOT TOO THIN. Ford even has multiple 0W40 oils on their approved list. Ford does not "simply recommend 15W40 oil". Ford OBVIOUSLY sells 5W40 oil, and the 6.0L owners manuals were revised to include the recommendation of it AFTER they came out with their own 5W40 oil (MANY years ago). When an engine is up to temperature, 0w40, 5W40, and 15W40 are ALL 40 weight oils. At ambient temperatures (lets just say at 0*F for simplicity, lol) a 5W40 oil is thicker than a 15W40 oil is at engine temperatures, so it will CLEARLY protect just fine cold or hot. It is the way VII additives work and the chemistry/technology behind multi-viscosity oils.

No doubt that a multi-viscosity oil with a wide split between the viscosity ratings (like 0W40 and 5W40) will definitely be a bit more prone to shearing - as the additives see heat and mechanical "wear". I would recommend some oil analyses if ever planning on running over 5000 miles OCI's. My oil change interval on 5W40 oil in Texas is around 7000 miles. I am doing well with it, but I am not "advocating" above 5000 miles.

The latest chart in a 2010 6.0L owners manual (E-series):

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/625x490/80-picture_php_pictureid_81715_0b63758b8aabdbe1e46bca0c7de70e1087a416e2.jpg

Links to Fords literature on oil approvals:

FCSD Chemicals and Lubricants

www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/additionalinfo/dieseloilsWSSM2C171F1.pdf

Still advocating Ford Gold coolant is simply crazy. A Diesel rated (for example EC-1 rated) ELC coolant is far superior to the Ford Gold. Many choices for a good EC-1 rated ELC coolant also! "Corroding holes in the oil cooler", lol! The Ford Gold coolant dropped out solids and plugged up oil coolers. Failure of these coolers came most likely from mechanical stress from poor heat/temperature profiles, and poorly understood expansion forces.

Statements from a knowledgeable Ford employee that was on the 6.0L forums in the early days:

If you're looking for a very robust, maintenance-free coolant, then I would recommend any heavy duty ELC over the Gold. HD ELC's have many advantages and they are made specifically for diesels. There are lots of name brands and off-brands.

International, who made the engine and who's engine Ford designed your cooling system around, recommends their Fleetrite brand ELC, which is currently the same exact coolant as Shell Rotella ELC. Your International dealer will carry it. They also approved the Texaco ELC. CAT ELC, Mobil/Delvac ELC, Prestone Heavy Duty ELC, Zerex Extreme Heavy Duty, Chevron ELC, etc. are all excellent. The new Delo ELC is probably the best going...8-year/750K mile interval. 1M mile interval with an extender.
Be careful some ELC coolants are not rated for Diesels, it must be a Heavy Duty ELC coolant rated for Diesels!

 

My recommendation is to NOT contaminate Ford Gold® with any other coolant. Obviously the OP had Ford Gold® in his system.

The OP said that he was a newbie. Sticking with the OEM recommendations is best for him. Your being a highly skilled and well trained professional engineer/mechanic gives you a little personal leeway.

 

Wow - these are going to be never ending myths.

A 0W40 is a 40 weight oil. It is NOT TOO THIN. Ford even has multiple 0W40 oils on their approved list. Ford does not "simply recommend 15W40 oil". Ford OBVIOUSLY sells 5W40 oil, and the 6.0L owners manuals were revised to include the recommendation of it AFTER they came out with their own 5W40 oil (MANY years ago). When an engine is up to temperature, 0w40, 5W40, and 15W40 are ALL 40 weight oils. At ambient temperatures a 5W40 oil is thicker than a 15W40 oil at engine temperatures, so it will protect just fine cold or hot. It is the way VII additives work and the chemistry/technology behind multi-viscosity oils.

The latest chart in a 6.0L owners manual:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/625x490/80-picture_php_pictureid_81715_0b63758b8aabdbe1e46bca0c7de70e1087a416e2.jpg

FCSD Chemicals and Lubricants

www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/additionalinfo/dieseloilsWSSM2C171F1.pdf

Still advocating Ford Gold coolant is simply crazy. A Diesel rated (for example EC-1 rated) ELC coolant is far superior to the Ford Gold. Many choices of it also! "Corroding holes in the oil cooler", lol!

Yuppers and 0w40 full synthetic is the cats meow when it's -40c outside

 

Wow - these are going to be never ending myths.

A 0W40 is a 40 weight oil. It is NOT TOO THIN. Ford even has multiple 0W40 oils on their approved list. Ford does not "simply recommend 15W40 oil". Ford OBVIOUSLY sells 5W40 oil, and the 6.0L owners manuals were revised to include the recommendation of it AFTER they came out with their own 5W40 oil (MANY years ago). When an engine is up to temperature, 0w40, 5W40, and 15W40 are ALL 40 weight oils. At ambient temperatures a 5W40 oil is thicker than a 15W40 oil at engine temperatures, so it will protect just fine cold or hot. It is the way VII additives work and the chemistry/technology behind multi-viscosity oils.

No doubt that a multi-viscosity oil with a wide split between the viscosity ratings (like 0W40 and 5W40) will definitely be a bit more prone to shearing - as the additives see heat and mechanical "wear". I would recommend some oil analyses if ever planning on running over 5000 miles OCI's. My oil change interval on 5W40 oil in Texas is around 7000 miles. I am doing well with it, but I am not "advocating" above 5000 miles.

The latest chart in a 2010 6.0L owners manual (E-series):

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/625x490/80-picture_php_pictureid_81715_0b63758b8aabdbe1e46bca0c7de70e1087a416e2.jpg

Links to Fords literature on oil approvals:

FCSD Chemicals and Lubricants

www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/additionalinfo/dieseloilsWSSM2C171F1.pdf

Still advocating Ford Gold coolant is simply crazy. A Diesel rated (for example EC-1 rated) ELC coolant is far superior to the Ford Gold. Many choices for a good EC-1 rated ELC coolant also! "Corroding holes in the oil cooler", lol!

Statements from a knowledgeable Ford employee that was on the 6.0L forums in the early days:

If you're looking for a very robust, maintenance-free coolant, then I would recommend any heavy duty ELC over the Gold. HD ELC's have many advantages and they are made specifically for diesels. There are lots of name brands and off-brands.

International, who made the engine and who's engine Ford designed your cooling system around, recommends their Fleetrite brand ELC, which is currently the same exact coolant as Shell Rotella ELC. Your International dealer will carry it. They also approved the Texaco ELC. CAT ELC, Mobil/Delvac ELC, Prestone Heavy Duty ELC, Zerex Extreme Heavy Duty, Chevron ELC, etc. are all excellent. The new Delo ELC is probably the best going...8-year/750K mile interval. 1M mile interval with an extender.
Be careful some ELC coolants are not rated for Diesels, it must be a Heavy Duty ELC coolant rated for Diesels!

0W40 has a low temperature viscosity of 0W oil. It is not recommended above 0F. This chart is from the owner's manual. Notice that 0W40 is not even on the chart. If one is going to use 0W oils ant the ambient temperature is above -10F then the "preferred" oil is 10W30 and that is only good up to 90F ambient temperature. That's why I asked where the OP was from. Not normally in the United States lower 48 is the temperature constantly below 0F for the amount of time that it takes for an oil change cycle. If you run too low a viscosity you run the risk of damaging engine bearings due to low film strength and low shear strength. Babbitt bearings are designed to run on a film of oil. Engineers consider the loading on the bearings when they specify viscosity. Some GASOLINE engines specify a 0W20 oil because these engines do not have cam bearings and the cam runs directly on the aluminum head. The 6.0 is a heavy duty diesel push rod engine. This is straight from the 6.0 diesel supplement:

Operative word "requires". I stand by my assessment that 0W oil is bad advice unless you are operating at the north pole in the winter.

 

You still don't have a clue on the viscosity vs temperature chart. I assure you 5W40 and even 0W40 is PLENTY thick at ambient temperatures. Much thicker than the oil at running temperatures (and yes I am repeating myself!). Those oils (0W40 and 5W40) are used in cold temperatures because the engine needs oil that can be PUMPED/circulated when they start up! The engine operating temperature range (both oil and coolant) in the Great North is going to essentially be the same operating temperature range in the South - as long as the cooling system is operating as designed (around 200 degrees F oil, 192 degrees coolant)! This is why we look at the "40" number for operating temperature performance (ie the SAE spec is at 100*C for what we watch).!!! The lower number - cold startup only, and even that is primarily so it will FLOW!

Yours is an old chart from an old diesel supplement. You are posting old information that has been "cussed and discussed" (and concluded) 15+ years ago. So much bad information then.

I realize people stick with what they know best, but this is an area where MUCH information was clarified and validated - YEARS ago.

I posted a link to the most recent version of that chart (ie Ford updated that chart to what posted earlier), I even stated that above. That said, the version of the chart I posted first showed up in the 2008 Diesel Supplement (after Ford was "beat up" for having such poor information in those earlier manuals). Ford CLEARLY updated the recommendation for heavy driving and trailer towing to include 5W40 oil (why? because they are 40 weight oils). AGAIN - trailer towing in a 2010 E-series uses the SAME 6.0L engine that an '05 F-series does!

Here is the link again (and I'll also attach a pic of the most recent version of the chart pulled from the most recent diesel supplement):

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/625x490/80-picture_php_pictureid_81715_0b63758b8aabdbe1e46bca0c7de70e1087a416e2.jpg

I'll even attach the most recent version of the 6.0L diesel supplement ...... look on page 46 for the chart. It is a 2010 6.0L Diesel Supplement manual.

(and yes it is applicable to BOTH the E-series and the F series also, just that no F-series were produced after 2007)

Again as posted above - these changes in the manuals showed up as Ford began to sell 5W40 diesel oil w/ their label on it., and Ford is clearly recommending 5W40s and even 0w40s for the 6.0L now. Big surprise, .... Oh, we (Ford) sell our label of 5W40 oil now, and so of course it is recommended for your engine!

We learned from their coolant that they are fine with trying to force people to use their fluids, even when it was to the customers detriment.

 

Yours is an old chart from an old diesel supplement. You are posting old information that has been "cussed and discussed" (and concluded) 15+ years ago. So much bad information then.

I posted a link to the most recent version of that chart, I even stated that above. That said, the version of the chart I posted first showed up in the 2008 Diesel Supplement (after Ford was "beat up" for having such poor information in those earlier manuals).

Here is the link again (and I'll also attach a pic of the most recent version of the chart pulled from the most recent diesel supplement):

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/625x490/80-picture_php_pictureid_81715_0b63758b8aabdbe1e46bca0c7de70e1087a416e2.jpg

I'll even attach the most recent version of the diesel supplement ...... look on page 46 for the chart.

(and yes it is applicable to F series also, just that no F-series were produced after 2007)

Again as posted above - these changes showed up as Ford began to sell diesel oils w/ their label on it., and Ford is clearly recommending 5W40s and even 0w40s for the 6.0L now.

Didn't the OP say that the truck was a 2005? Don't be giving him information based on the "new and improved" 6.7 or 6.4. Either way the book on the 2020 6.7 only specifies 0W30 for extremely cold climates. (Like the North Pole) This is from my 2020 owner's manual for the 6.7 diesel.

I'm still standing by my opinion unless you can show me in the 2005 diesel supplement specifically for the 6.0 engine. I checked. Ford no longer lists 2005 model year on their website for owner manual download. If Ford engineers did not specifically recommend it Don't use it. I'm just trying to save the OP some grief.

 

Did the original post get deleted? First post I see is you asking a bunch of random questions. Is this thread a part 2 to something else? I’m lost

 

The information I gave was for a 6.0L. The exact same 6.0L installed in the 2006-2007 F and E series.

You don't even recognize the 6.0L was installed in vehicles through 2010 ...... This is why I mentioned the E-series. Couldn't fit a 6.4L in the E-series!!

I am sure your intentions are good, but the information is not.

 

His information was invalid once he stated Ford Gold coolant and nothing else hahaha

 

His information was invalid once he stated Ford Gold coolant and nothing else hahaha

Agreed!

It is a bit funny because the 6.7L chart he posted shows the OW40 is clearly stated as good below -20*F AND all the way past 100*F. That wide operating range is EXACTLY what a 0W40 (and a 5W40) is designed for!!! That engine oil technology does not cease to apply in the 6.0L engine!

The very point for multi-viscosity oil technology in engines - not something unique to the 6.7L.

 

His information was invalid once he stated Ford Gold coolant and nothing else hahaha

 

Agreed!

It is a bit funny because the 6.7L chart he posted shows the OW40 is clearly stated as good below -20*F AND all the way past 100*F.

The very point for multi-viscosity oil technology in engines - not something unique to the 6.7L.

You forgot to read the bit about towing. 15W40.

Agreed!

It is a bit funny because the 6.7L chart he posted shows the OW40 is clearly stated as good below -20*F AND all the way past 100*F.

The very point for multi-viscosity oil technology in engines - not something unique to the 6.7L.

Trust but verify. Unless you have a 2005 manual verification is not possible. On the 6.7 if you are going to tow anything 0W oil not recommended. Minimum 5W40. How can you predict that within the next 5000 miles you are not going to tow anything? If that were the case you would have a very expensive passenger car. Funny thing you did not read the whole thing. Also the ambient temperature exceeds 100F on the pavement. That's where I drive. On the asphalt where it gets up to 160F in the summer. Double teaming or not you still have not convinced me of the safety of 0W40 oil in a 2005 6.0 as you aren't coming up with any documentation. I would not recommend it to anyone especially considering that the average driver goes 12000 miles a year, which is over 2 oil change cycles.

 

What is it about 0W40 that does not hold up??? Is your engine running that much hotter than design that it needs a 50 weight?? A 0W40 will provide plenty of protection in 100*F ambient temperature - it flows well w/ a good viscosity at low and high ambient temps, and it has the needed viscosity of a 40 weight at 200*F engine temperature. It provides protection even when towing - because it is a 40 weight oil.

Answer - there is nothing about a 0W40 that won't hold up to engine temperatures (except the slight increase in shearing rate over quite a few miles). Again, that is the beauty of chemistry and engineering! And - the thread has never really been about convincing you! Just posting the facts. Remember, the engine doesn't know where it lives, and engine temps will be controlled to an ideal point whether 100 degrees outside or 0 degrees outside! Just look at the engine temperature data.

The document I posted was for a 6.0L engine - the same engine internals as a 2005 model year. I am sorry you can not grasp that, but the fact remains that it is applicable (even more so since it is a later update specifically FOR the 6,0L engine).

5W40 for me since 15k miles. Hot SOUTH Texas all its life. Tuned also. Towed a bit in the early years. That is 230k miles on 5W40!!

Oil analyses on every oil change (except one). Recent oil changes have been 7000-7500 miles. 244k miles on the engine and going strong!! Been at this a long time and my data is posted ALL OVER the internet.

Trust but verify. Done it and got the t-shirt lol.

Please lets stop arguing things that were disproved 15 years ago (and the earth really is round)!

Just for fun, a link below shows how the cold viscosity of any engine oil starts out WAY above that which an engines needs .... and then settles into the proper viscosity range within a specified engine (and oil) temperature range (again, the **W rating is for pumpability - without it we would ALL be crying):

Motor oil graphs | Widman International SRL

gráfica típica de la variación de viscosidad de aceite

www.widman.biz

Strange how they end up at the right viscosity at operating temperature (100*C). Actually it isn't, it is intentional. 0W40 would end up there also! Science is science.

 

Double teaming or not you still have not convinced me of the safety of 0W40 oil in a 2005 6.0 as you aren't coming up with any documentation.

Just a reminder, that was not your thread and they arent here to debate you.

That said, I've pulled this conversation into its own debate.

Good luck.

 

I LOVE LAMP

 

 

The problem of 0W40 oil is the viscosity at low temperatures. The babbitt bearings retain a film of oil. When the temperature drops in the engine block viscosity shifts. If the engine is not designed for such a light oil the bearings may lose some of their residual oil causing a dry start. There are only so many dry starts an engine can tolerate. An engine with 100,000 miles on it already has had some bearing wear which makes 0W oil more problematic. If you can obtain an owner's manual specific to your year model, you will know for sure what oil to use.

0W oils were developed for better fuel economy. When Pennzoil was asked if a lighter viscosity oil than recommended be used, they answered: "No, if your owner’s manual calls for a thicker oil, you should not use a thinner SAE grade nor use a thicker oil for a recommended thinner oil vis-grade. Using the proper viscosity motor oil will help protect and maintain the performance of your vehicle’s engine."

I would not use anything not recommended, especially in an older engine, without advice from an engineer who specializes in lubrication technology. Advice from the interwebs that is contrary to recommendations is suspect.

 

The problem of 0W40 oil is the viscosity at low temperatures. The babbitt bearings retain a film of oil. When the temperature drops in the engine block viscosity shifts. If the engine is not designed for such a light oil the bearings may lose some of their residual oil causing a dry start. There are only so many dry starts an engine can tolerate. An engine with 100,000 miles on it already has had some bearing wear which makes 0W oil more problematic. If you can obtain an owner's manual specific to your year model, you will know for sure what oil to use.

0W oils were developed for better fuel economy. When Pennzoil was asked if a lighter viscosity oil than recommended be used, they answered: "No, if your owner’s manual calls for a thicker oil, you should not use a thinner SAE grade nor use a thicker oil for a recommended thinner oil vis-grade. Using the proper viscosity motor oil will help protect and maintain the performance of your vehicle’s engine."

I would not use anything not recommended, especially in an older engine, without advice from an engineer who specializes in lubrication technology. Advice from the interwebs that is contrary to recommendations is suspect.

The purpose for the 0w or 5w is it will flow at the low temperatures Ensuring the bearings receive oil ant the start and not relying on a residual film from the last operation until the 40 warms up.

 

The problem of 0W40 oil is the viscosity at low temperatures. The babbitt bearings retain a film of oil. When the temperature drops in the engine block viscosity shifts. If the engine is not designed for such a light oil the bearings may lose some of their residual oil causing a dry start. There are only so many dry starts an engine can tolerate. An engine with 100,000 miles on it already has had some bearing wear which makes 0W oil more problematic. If you can obtain an owner's manual specific to your year model, you will know for sure what oil to use.

0W oils were developed for better fuel economy. When Pennzoil was asked if a lighter viscosity oil than recommended be used, they answered: "No, if your owner’s manual calls for a thicker oil, you should not use a thinner SAE grade nor use a thicker oil for a recommended thinner oil vis-grade. Using the proper viscosity motor oil will help protect and maintain the performance of your vehicle’s engine."

I would not use anything not recommended, especially in an older engine, without advice from an engineer who specializes in lubrication technology. Advice from the interwebs that is contrary to recommendations is suspect.

At this point I think you're just trolling out of boredom lol. Believe whatever you want, but a high quality synthetic 0w40/5w40 is superior to a dino or blend 15w40 simple as that.

0w40 oil at cold starts will get into tighter spaces faster than a 15w40 will so your whole shpeel about bearing damage is unfounded IMHO plus there's guys here who've been running 0w/5w oils for over a decade with zero issues so again you have no "JUICE" here dude.

BTW I'm 99% sure Ford Canada sent out an update WAY back in the day recommending 10w30 instead of 15w40 so the 6.0 PS isn't as fragile as you think it is

 

My last "plea"!! ............... Please make that nonsense stop.
In a 0W40 oil, the W does NOT mean WEIGHT!

A 0W40 oil IS a 40 weight oil - VII additives are engineered and added to a base oil to make it so!
Look at the number AFTER the "W" for the weight, not the one before.

And for the record, I hate to see the terms thick and thin applied to an oil. We need to stick to the facts (ie physical property numbers)! Oh well, it is what it is.

It is CLEAR that you do NOT even know what the kinematic viscosity values are for a 0W40 oil....at any temperature!

SO, please note a few facts -

• A 0W40 oil is going to be around 400 (maybe up to 500) centistokes (cSt) at 0 degrees C (32 degree F). ie NOT thin!
• A viscosity of 400 cSt is thick, and it will get thicker when (if) the temperature drops!
• The oil viscosity value at 32 *F is STILL 20-25 times higher than what it will be when the engine gets fully up to temperature.

Thinking that an oil will be "too thin" at cold temperatures is absolute silliness. The lowest viscosity of an oil (when it is most thin - as you put it) will be at engine operating temperatures.

If oil is going to quickly drain off of internal engine surfaces, then it will do so IMMEDIATELY when a HOT engine is turned off. Clearly oil will drip off of the internal surfaces when the engine is shut down, but not such that it becomes a significant problem (obviously)!

In fact, some real data: SAE definition of 40 weight oil viscosity (ranges):

• At 212*F (100*C, ie standard engine operating temperature): a 40 weight oil viscosity is defined to be between 12.5 to 16.29 cSt
• At 104 *F (40*C, note that this is COLDER than engine operating temperature): a STRAIGHT 40 weight oil viscosity will typically be between 150 to 155 cSt. EDIT - I found the SAE defined range in cSt at this temperature and it is 135 to 165 cSt.

Reference:

Oil Viscosity - How It's Measured and Reported

A lubricating oil’s viscosity is typically measured and defined in two ways, either based on its kinematic viscosity or its absolute (dynamic) viscosity. While the descriptions may seem simi…

www.machinerylubrication.com

WOW - Oil viscosity INCREASES as temperature drops!!

So at 32*F (0*C) the multi-viscosity 0W40 oil is at a thick 400 (ish) cSt.
At 104*F (40*C) the multi-viscosity 0W40 oil is at a thick 75-85 cSt.
At 212*F (100*C) the multi-viscosity 0W40 oil is at a PROPER 40wt 14-15 (ish) cSt.

SO - as things BEGIN to heat up inside the engine, the oil "thins" from its thick starting point (say 400 cSt at 32*F). A 0W40 oil is STILL going to be over five times as thick at 104*F when compared to what it will be at engine operating temperature! This is BECAUSE the viscosity index improving polymers are working as designed! As temperature of the oil increases more, the oil viscosity reduction rate (thinning) slows way down so that it lands perfectly in the 40 wt oil range at engine operating temperature! Viscosity vs temperature is an exponential relationship.

Isn't science fun!

If an oil provides a viable film at engine operating temperatures (viscosity and film strength properties), it is darn sure going to do so at temperatures below operating temperature. Why? Over simplified, but the answer is because it is thicker at colder temperatures!

ALL of our engine oils (including 0W40) get thicker as they cool down from engine operating temperature to ambient temperature! Just because it is a multi-viscosity oil doesn't mean that it violates this physical FACT. Science doesn't cease to exist in a 6.0L either.

How in the world can you post that "stuff" when you do not have a clue regarding the true information. Post this on BITOG (or Noria, or Machinery Lube) and get laughed off of the forums!!

Actually I do have a technical knowledge of this stuff, I just do not talk about that background. People tend to gloss over information that is too technical!

Facts posted only for the "open minded"!

 

My last "plea"!! ............... Please make that nonsense stop.
In a 0W40 oil, the W does NOT mean WEIGHT!

A 0W40 oil IS a 40 weight oil - VII additives are engineered and added to a base oil to make it so!
Look at the number AFTER the "W" for the weight, not the one before.

And for the record, I hate to see the terms thick and thin applied to an oil. We need to stick to the facts (ie physical property numbers)! Oh well, it is what it is.

It is CLEAR that you do NOT even know what the kinematic viscosity values are for a 0W40 oil....at any temperature!

SO, please note a few facts -

• A 0W40 oil is going to be around 400 (maybe up to 500) centistokes (cSt) at 0 degrees C (32 degree F). ie NOT thin!
• A viscosity of 400 cSt is thick, and it will get thicker when (if) the temperature drops!
• The oil viscosity value at 32 *F is STILL 20-25 times higher than what it will be when the engine gets fully up to temperature.

Thinking that an oil will be "too thin" at cold temperatures is absolute silliness. The lowest viscosity of an oil (when it is most thin - as you put it) will be at engine operating temperatures.

If oil is going to quickly drain off of internal engine surfaces, then it will do so IMMEDIATELY when a HOT engine is turned off. Clearly oil will drip off of the internal surfaces when the engine is shut down, but not such that it becomes a significant problem (obviously)!

In fact, some real data: SAE definition of 40 weight oil viscosity (ranges):

• At 212*F (100*C, ie standard engine operating temperature): a 40 weight oil viscosity will be between 12.5 to 16.29 cSt
• At 104 *F (40*C, note that this is COLDER than engine operating temperature): a STRAIGHT 40 weight oil viscosity will be between 28.6 to 35.4 cSt

WOW - Oil viscosity INCREASES as temperature drops!!

So at 32*F (0*C) the multi-viscosity 0W40 oil is at a thick 400 (ish) cSt.
At 104*F (40*C) the multi-viscosity 0W40 oil is at a thick 75-85 cSt.
At 212*F (100*C) the multi-viscosity 0W40 oil is at a PROPER 40wt 14-15 (ish) cSt.

SO - as things BEGIN to heat up inside the engine, the oil "thins" from its thick starting point (say 400 cSt at 32*F). A 0W40 oil is STILL going to be over five times as thick at 104*F when compared to what it will be at engine operating temperature! This is BECAUSE the viscosity index improving polymers are working as designed! As temperature of the oil increases more, the oil viscosity reduction rate (thinning) slows way down so that it lands perfectly in the 40 wt oil range at engine operating temperature! Viscosity vs temperature is an exponential relationship.

Isn't science fun!

If an oil provides a viable film at engine operating temperatures (viscosity and film strength properties), it is darn sure going to do so at temperatures below operating temperature. Why? Over simplified, but the answer is because it is thicker at colder temperatures!

ALL of our engine oils (including 0W40) get thicker as they cool down from engine operating temperature to ambient temperature! Just because it is a multi-viscosity oil doesn't mean that it violates this physical FACT. Science doesn't cease to exist in a 6.0L either.

How in the world can you post that "stuff" when you do not have a clue regarding the true information. Post this on BITOG (or Noria, or Machinery Lube) and get laughed off of the forums!!

Actually I do have a technical knowledge of this stuff, I just do not talk about that background. People tend to gloss over information that is too technical!

Facts posted only for the "open minded"!

@bismic

Just curious, don't know if you would have the data, what happens to the viscosity between 0w40 and the 15w40 as the temperature go north of 212? I would imagine it's not uncommon for a lot of 6.0s out there to run significantly hotter on a regular basis due to subpar or clogging oil coolers. If you already posted info that says this my apologies. I'm guessing the 0w40 would do better as their synthetic, but don't really know

 

BUT.....BUT....BUT the Earth is flat and the Sun is only 20 miles above us lol 🤣

 

I love these oil debates. Just waiting for the Amsoil salesman to school us on "cold flow"

 

I used the Amsoil site (and Exxon/Mobil site) for a couple real world examples of 0W40 viscosities.

 

I used the Amsoil site for a couple real world examples of 0W40 viscosities.

Science IS fun!

 

Looks at grenade, pulls pin and rolls it into the room

Hey look an oil debate, you know Amsoil is the best right?

LOL

(I know Kaakau beat me to it but I'm here to entertain myself haha)

 

Never fear... for Heavy is here... OP and him are old friends for sure... 😂 😂 😂 😂

 

 

Lest we forget about the beloved archoil gangbang

I used the Amsoil site for a couple real world examples of 0W40 viscosities.

 

nah, macho is the only way

 

Just don't let him get up and we might keep you in power over us 😂 😂 😂

 

0W40 oils shear down faster. It's not like they are perfect either. Perhaps better for REALLY cold climates, but to be used at shorter intervals.