Your FICM voltage should never be below 47volts. With Key on, While cranking, and while engine is running, even if your batteries are putting out as low as 10volts. If someone is telling you that as long as its above 38 volts your fine, Don't go back to them. Low voltage to the injectors can cause an overcurrent situation and you risk frying a coil in the injector. You can repair you FICM if you feel confident in using a soldering iron yourself. You can search the web to find FICM repair procedures, its fairly easy to do.

 

the no start sticky thread in this forum is where i got the information. i knew it should read 47 but i was looking to double check what the bottom line was. looking for any information as to why it was idling like utter crapola.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0l-problems-forum/236534-no-start-issue-look-here.html

prior to doing the ipr when it died on me. it was reading 48.5v (fully charged batts) when i first hooked up the bluetooth adaptor to diagnose why it had died on me. i did fully charge my batts last night. if it reads 48.5v again is there an explanation for it other than it being in need of repair.

i have already been looking into repairing it myself. i am fairly competent at soldering.

 

ficmfixer.com.....great price, lifetime warranty.

 

The most common cause of FICM failure is the solder welds at the capacitors inside the FICM. Due to vibrations and a high silver content in the solder used, micro fracturing is causing an incomplete circuit. A few FICMs still operate normally but under certain conditions the problem becomes evident, like when you are cranking. There are 8 capacitors and 16 points that you should check, you can see them circled in red and white. You may not even be able to tell if these connections are bad because the cracks are so small. To repair, take a soldering iron and reheat the solder at these points. Be careful not to use an insane soldering iron that will be to hot.

 

ok. i did see that thread/writeup on reheating the solder already. i have a couple three soldering irons. lowest wattage i have is 30 watts. the ficm isn't the original one. has a manufacture date of 2008.

since it's cooled off some today i am going to go hit the fuel filters, drain plug, and pull the ficm. i won't bother tossing the batts back in to see what the ficm reads to spare the injectors til after i do the repair.

 

got the ficm out. going to try this out later tonight. off to get new fuel filters. lower filter was full of crap.

 

well for whatever reason i can't get the solder to melt on the ficm. i've never had to reflow solder before. bit stumped on this one. iron will melt the solder i have but not what's on the board already.

 

With wicking braid and a drop of flux you can pull the old solder and whatever the coating is off and use flux to re-solder the joints. Clean it up with alcohol.

 

After it's running again, check the FICM volts while driving. Voltage still can't drop. I read different things on resoldering it, and at the very least it buys you time, and may fix it permenantly. A coating is over the solder, which I think is for weather proofing. I'm not sure what to put over it. I would guess after a while humidity or other moisture could get in and start to corrode the joints.

Also could be more stuff stuck on the IPR screen. I don't see how a bad FICM has anything to do with setting the IPR to 14.7%. That tells me for some reason the PCM thinks the IPR is stuck so it won't let any more than the minimum amount of pressure in.

My guess is that you have at least a couple issues. First the FICM, and second something with the High Pressure Oil. You also mentioned the gunk in the fuel filter, so the filter may have gotten everything, or there could be more stuff in the fuel. That lower fuel filter picks up all the gunk that goes through the fuel pump, so it can run 1000 gallons of gas before it gets changed.

 

update- still not too good and not comfortable trying to drive it yet.

put in the new fuel filters.

thought i had got the solder to reflow (found my better weller soldering gun). steady voltage (wasn't before i tried the repair) while cranking but idling it's still dropping. idle is slightly improved. i am not getting the weird pulsing noise out of the exhaust anymore. still rough as hell though. either i didn't quite get it or the board just really needs to be replaced. might give it one more go with trying to repair it. this time just resoldering rather than a reflow.

the ipr is a brand new motor craft. i can pull it back out and check on it. i have observed the value changing to the 30% range.

 

Ok. I ended up buying a new reman ficm board since another round still didn't fix the voltage.

I pulled the ipr valve again to see if there was any debris on it already. Very little but the screen is all deformed. Didn't blow but isn't completely seated on the ipr anymore. Probably shouldn't use it and get a new screen. Suck.

Other problem was previous owner used an aftermarket oil cap and I had put a new oem filter in after the oil change. Got a new oem cap on there so that is at least cured.

from my understanding the oil filter not being seated properly isn't actually filtering the oil. would this be where i am having a debris problem causing the ipr to get clogged?

also i am wondering the possibility of the screen under the oil cooler already went.

 

Update:

Hadn't been able to work on it lately so over the weekend I put in a lot of time to pull it apart and get it back together. It starts but still rough. Does sound better in general though. Turned over very easy.

I ordered a new ficm board. Installed it and I have a good constant voltage.

Since the IPR screen went already I checked the one under the oil cooler and it failed already with some debris on it. Replaced both screens.

This what the torque app is saying.

IPR duty cycle 30-41%
Icp voltage around 1 -1.1v
Hpop pressure was staying around 800psi
Ficm sync 1.0
Ficm main power staying at least 48v

Since it was running I got it out of the yard and put it in the driveway under some shade so I can work on it during the day. Already in the 80's and been brutal to work on it during the day.

Torque app is saying incomplete next to misfire. I am assuming this means it's misfiring if I am reading it correctly. Says incomplete next to egr but that is from the egr delete.

I don't know where to go with what to do next as far as diagnosing the misfire with the torque app. From what I gather I can't run the injector buzz test.

What else can I be doing?

 

car guage pro giving me plenty of codes. uhg!!!

grabbed car guage pro earlier. it pulled a bunch of codes. i'm searching for what they mean but here they are.

p0113 - intake air temperature circuit high input

p0276 - cylinder 6injector circuit low

p0278 - cylinder 6 contribution/balance

p0603 - internal control module keep alive memory (kam) error

p0683 - glow plug/heater module comm problem

p2284 - no description available

p2286 - no description available

 

Sounds like you're making progress some progress, but you may have reached the end of trouble shooting with a monitor.

If you had the autoenginuity ford pack for your computer, you could do the buzz test, and run a contribution test, and that may show a bad fuel injector. If you had IDS you could do a better contribution test that would shut off the auto correction the PCM uses and more likely show a bad fuel injector. If you can drive it to a decent diesel garage familiar with 6.0s for $100 or $150 they would hook it up to a computer and give it about an hours worth of diagnostics. To pay for towing and the diagnostic is cheaper then getting the software for your computer.


From the 6.0 Bible at: www.powerstrokediesel.com/docs/EF_456.pdf


P2284 C R Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
Default inferred ICP, ICP desired does not equal ICP signal, difference of 362psi/2.5mpa.
See diagnostic manual - ICP system.

P2286 C O R Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit High Default open loop control - underrun at idle, ICP is greater than 4.91 volts.
ICP circuit short, Vref or Vbat, defective sensor.

Those two codes are soft codes, so they will not trip the check engine light, but can be pulled with a decent code reader.

I got the Intake Air temperature high a few times randomly, never did figure out what it was, but that turned into a P0299 turbo underboost, and a good turbo cleaning fixed that. Neither the intake air temp or P0299 came back after the turbo cleaning.

For the ICP, does that change when you press on the gas? Same with the ICPv? If the ICP is defective, it goes into an inferred mode where the PCM tells the system what it ought to be and the ICP changes, but the ICPv remains relatively constant.

Also, yes the oil can flow around the filter if you have the wrong one, but anytime the low pressure oil is above 20 psi or 25 psi, a bypass is activated so anything greater than that amount goes around the oil filter, so even with the filter fully seated, if the startup pressure is 75 PSI, maybe a third of the oil is actually going through the filter, the rest around it. So, in the short term it probably won't make a difference but after a few hundred miles, who knows; probably not good.

 

Sounds like you have a possible bad injector or high pressure oil leak at the suspected fuel injector. Also compression test or blow by test, be best to confirm before spending money 👍 Good luck

 

thanks for the input


i will start it back up tomorrow and check the icp on what it is doing. i figured i was going to be cranking on it for a while after opening everything back up. it turned over super easy so i wasn't paying too much attn to what it was doing. just posted what it was reading when i turned the engine off after letting it idle, parking it back in the driveway. i don't think that any air in the system could be causing #6 to be a pain in the butt. i did almost want to go drive it but after it died and had to tow it back i didn't want to risk it. it did sputter a little bit at me while i was pulling it into the driveway but didn't try to die.


when i first started having problems with the truck it surged and died a few times. check engine light and my generic code reader gave me the code 2285 (i think). i cleared that one out (with my generic reader way before i ever got torque or car guage). these other two icp codes wouldn't just be still in there from the 2285? when i went in from the top to do the icp i had discovered that the oil cooler had went which has spiraled into all this business.

unless i am reading it wrong the p-0603 is from a tuner and or the batts being disconnected. googling this code it did dawn on me that dude i bought the truck from gave me a superchips tuner with the truck. it's been shoved under the back seat and out of mind and forgot about it. if i remember right he said he had put it back to a stock tune but i should probably double check that it is running on a stock tune.

truck came with the air raid intake on it. filter was nasty when i had to have it towed home. i've cleaned the hell out of it and even when i started it today the air filter light came on again. i don't think the they are connected with the p0113 code. what i've read it's a maf sensor issue. may just need to replace the filter since it's a little worse for wear but daylight isn't showing through. may just put it back to a stock airbox. when i did have the turbo out i thought about cleaning it. might be on my list of things to do also now.

the p0683 code has me a bit stumped. i don't think it could be a code that has been sitting in the truck since before i bought it. other than the icp issues it never has had a long crank before. well other than bleeding the air out when i did the oil cooler. since it's already getting into the 80's truck really isn't relying on glow plugs to start (correct me if wrong.) have to figure out where it is on the truck and check it out.


with the injector codes. if it's an oil leak does that mean o-rings most likely? i figure i probably had a bad injector from it misfiring. hoping just stiction but the way my luck is. doesn't look like my hpop is going which is good. either way i am figuring about another grand to get it running right.

car guage will do a buzz test. i couldn't figure it out. i need to look at a vid or something. car guage is confusing.

i have a few things i need to look at first before deciding to take it somewhere. if i end up having do it more than once just going ahead and buying the software might be viable. seen plenty of vids on how to interpret the software.

 

Yea usually the Oring on top of head of injectors go out , and can cause leak. Long crank, now start and maybes misfire also . usually I also remove valve covers and run truck if it idles and confirm high pressure oil leaks on top of injectors, bright light helps out a lot 👍 You can also try cranking over if it's a no start and possibly see the high pressure oil leak under galve covers or also at the hpop fitting for 05+ Models the same way

 

The Oring that I am talking bout is one on top of injector where the oil rail meets.

 

Had to last minute scramble to get the pen built for my horse I won on an auction, and get my butt up to Knoxville the other day to pick him up. So haven't been able to mess with the truck. Tomorrow or the next day I will be able to.

If it's the o-ring, can I replace just the ring? Or am I out the whole injector and or needing a new oil rail?

 

Just get power side ficm at advance auto parts online pick up in store.
Use code TRT30, online get 30% off! cost ya bout 75 bucks total, save ya some money take bout 2 hours get it out change it put back together

 

And it's probably cheap junk.

 

With the wrong oil filter cap on you got lots of contamination flowing through the oil system. That includes the injectors and hpop. You may see injector problems, either spool valve sticking or failure. Another oil change may help get the crap out and get the injectors cleared out, but don't hold your breath. Try a bubble test to see if you have injector o-ring failures or failed injectors. Unfortunately, if the bubble test fails the only way to know if it is the injector o-rings or the injector is to replace the o-rings and do the test again. If it fails after that, it is the injector itself.