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No start issue? Look here.
Alright there are tons of no start issue question being posted so this will help you narrow it down and/or provide the rest of us important information to be able to help you. A big bonus would be if you have an Edge CTS this will help in your search.
1. Is it a no start hot or cold issue (hot being up to running temps and cold being starting it when it is cold)
2. Check your FICM voltage this is very important. If the voltage is below 46 consider a replacement or rebuild. It should still start with that voltage but if it is lower than 38 ish this is likely your issue.
3. If it is a hot start these are things to consider ICP, IPR, HPOP, and possible oil rail leaks.
4. CEL? If so scan for codes this will help.
5. Was your truck doing anything odd before the no start for example loss of power unusual sounds let us know when you post.
This will help you get started and will greatly help us help you diagnose a problem we don't get the opportunity to experience in person.
Here is a LINK to add to this
Please don't post any question in here but feel free to add more information that is relative and will help aid in the diagnostic process.
Sticky would be very beneficial
Last edited by scparrish; 01-22-2012 at 06:11 PM.
Great information here, also don't forget to add what year your truck is. Different year models will have different issues, or some are more prone to fail. Any modifications should also be mentioned if you don't have your sig filled out.
I vote sticky as well as this topic is talked about all the time.
Troubleshooting a No-Start condition FROM---- BISMIC
Troubleshooting a NO-START:
1. Pull diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) if you can (you can have codes without a Check Engine Light).
2. Automatic transmission shift lever fully in PARK or NEUTRAL? Try restarting while slightly moving the gearshift lever.
3. If manual, clutch pedal fully pressed?
4. Battery connections (all including grounds) - all good? Alternator cable connections good?
5. Starter relay connections - all good?
6. Glow plug connectors making good connection?
7. Is the starter engaging? Verify starter and ignition switch are working properly.
8. Load test BOTH batteries individually and check the charging system (alternator). PCM needs to see 500 rpm minimum to start IIRC.
9. Fusible links and fuses OK? The FICM relay is labled IDM Relay #304. Check it specifically.
10. Could a factory or aftermarket anti-theft device be causing the problem (Passive Active Theft System - PATS)? Disconnect it if possible. Same w/ a remote start system.
11. Push the reset on the emergency fuel cut-off switch.
12. Any oil pressure registering on the dash pressure gauge (low pressure system)? If not, it could be a bad oil pump (LPOP), a oil filter drain valve stuck open, or a bad oil pressure regulator. You should register oil pressure on the dash gauge in a long crank/ no start condition when the complete oil system is known to be sealed.
13. Check PCM and FICM connections - any wire chaffing? Any Injector harness chaffing? Any ICP or IPR harness chaffing? More detail below.
14. Verify that the oil level is correct and the proper oil and filter have been installed. Oil foaming and loss of viscosity (too thick or fuel diluted) can be an issue. Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil.
15. Verify that the air filter is not plugged - Check the filter minder and you may even want to pull the air filter and inspect.
16. Inspect the ICP sensor and harness. Is it oil soaked? Disconnect the ICP and try again. The PCM will establish a default control scheme that would allow the truck to start if the problem were the ICP sensor. Afterwards, make sure the harness is re-installed securely. Also, check ICP circuit fuse.
17. Change both fuel filters, inspect appearance of the fuel when draining the water separator (you could just have bad fuel).
Make sure that the air is purged on start-up. By following the proper (KOEO) cycling procedure before cranking."
18. If you can, verify the fuel pressure (test port is at the base of the secondary fuel filter). Must be over 45 psig.
19. If you have no fuel flow or low pressure, it could be a bad pump (HFCM), OR it could be a plugged fuel filter or plugged lines. You can blow air through the lines to check for plugging. If there is no pluggage, test the pump. First, pull fuse 302 (PCM) and relay 304 (FICM) and then pull the secondary (upper) fuel filter, remove any fuel, and then verify that it is being filled by cranking the engine. As it is being filled, make sure there are no air bubbles. If there are, you have a leak in some connections, the HFCM suction line, or the HFCM o-ring (most likely). Be sure to lube the o-ring w/ oil before re-installing.
TO CHECK FOR SUCTION LINE PLUGGING:
The pump vacuum test is refered to as an ""inlet restriction test"". This will test from the pump to the tank for a restriction. A reading that of more than 6"" H2O vacuum is very bad. 6"" is the max limit. The normal reading is between 2"" and 0"" of H2O.
To do this test you would need to ""T"" a vacuum gauge in between the back of the pump and the line coming into it. If you have a high reading there, then move the T to the tank at the outlet line. If the restriction is still present at the tank, then the problem is in the tank. If there is no restriction at this point, then the issue would be with the supply line to the pump."
20. Pull the oil filter top and have someone crank it while you watch to see if any oil is flowing into the filter housing. If not then it is a LPO problem. Take a long extension and hold down the check valve (round black thing held up by a spring). Have someone crank the engine. The housing should fill within about 10 seconds of cranking.
21. If possible, verify high pressure oil pressure (ICP sensor) - must be over 500 psig to fire the injectors. See link below.
22. Pull the EGR valve and inspect. Clean if dirty. Check the strength of the spring. Consider replacing it - just because. Also clean the MAP sensor hose and the EBP tube. These may cause surging and hard start, but a long shot for a no-start.
23. Troubleshoot the glow plug system (you need a clamp on inductive ammeter). Test each glow plug module wire bundle separately, then test each glow plug. Look for any amperages lower on one side or lower to an individual glow plug. From each module you should see 200 A at first dropping quickly to 35-37 A if the GPCM is OK. Both modules should read apprx. the same. Each glow plug will draw 8-10 A. Or you could check the resistance in each glow plug - should be less than 1 ohm.
24. Carry out the KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test (Click Test) and the bubble test.
25. Check the Crank (CKP) and Cam (CMP) sensor wiring harnesses.
26. Check the FICM voltage - see post #2 of this thread (below).
Wire Chaffing Locations:
FICM and ICP harness recall
(in the link above you may have to copy and past the address in your web browser to access the video from Ford.
h t t p://turbodieselforums.com/downloads/6.0L%20wire%20chafing.pdf
(copy and paste the URL above in your browser - without the spaces in http)
h t t p://turbodieselforums.com/downloads/Econoline%20Wire%20Chafe.pdf
(copy and paste the URL above in your browser - without the spaces in http)
TROUBLESHOOT THE HPO PRESSURE SYSTEM:
In the ITP search page enter "high pressure oil" and click on the drop down "Look For" and select "exact phrase". Go to page 2.
Determinimg if the ICP sensor is seeing 500 psig minimum:
scroll down to post #23 in the thread linked above.
If possible, you can pull the ICP and install a pressure gauge to check the pressure in the “high pressure oil system”. Crank the engine and watch the pressure. You need 500 psig to start. The fitting needed for this is the same as that for the fuel pressure test port.
Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.
To check your ipr and hp oil system:
1. Get an ipr connector from Ford and put 2 long wires on the end, plug it into the ipr. Later you will attach the 2 long leads to b+ and negative ...... this will close the ipr.
2. Then remove your icp sensor (04.25 and up truck??) from the passenger side valve cover and thread a fitting in with an air fitting on the end (so you can apply compressed air to the hp oil system).
3. Remove your oil fill cap, your intake up to the turbo (get the ccv out of the valve cover at least), and the hot side cac tube.
4. Then, command the IPR closed for only 30 seconds, apply 100psi air to the hp oil system and listed to where the leak is coming from.
When you hear it you've found your problem....that is assuming you have a hp oil problem.
If your building low and high oil pressure fine, then you've just wasted your time.
Generally on no-start conditions that are related to "high pressure oil" leaks, the vehicle will still develop low pressure system pressures. However, the plug on the H.P. oil feed can occasionally blow out, the H.P. pump seal can blow out, and on the '03-04 trucks the ball on the side of the H.P. pump blow out - causing loss of base oil pressure.
Hard start - no start conditions related to the HPOP could be attributed to the following components in the high pressure oil system (air test while hot will determine the root cause):
Faulty IPR valve
Leaking snap-to-connect (STC) fitting (05 and up model years)
Leaky or cracked branch tube
Leak with the stand pipe
Leaky or cracked oil rail (including oil rail end caps/plugs)
Leak in the d-rings of the oil rail front port plugs (or dummy plugs)
Leaky o-ring on an injector; or leak at the top of the injector where the ball tube from the high pressure oil rail connects to the injector.
Weak or failed HPOP itself
Low base oil pressure (failed oil pressure regulator).
Low base oil pressure (bad low pressure oil pump - LPOP).
Post #3 below has a low pressure oil test procedure
Post #4 below has another reference to a no-start checklist
One easy check for injector problems: SEE POST #5 below
"When injectors fail, it is possible for combustion gasses to flow into the fuel system and displace the fuel. The gasses come through the pintle seat and into the fuel galley in the head and up into the fuel filter.
Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Cam Shaft Position Sensor (CMP)
The idea is not to guess 100% of the problems and solutions, but to say that statistically with this symptom you most likely have that problem. with as common as some 6.0 problems are it should work at least 90% of the time.
6.0 TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE.
Q: My engine starts when cold but runs rough and has poor performance until it warms up
A: Check FICM voltage if below 46 volts repair or replace FICM
A: You have injector stiction issues pour in some REV-X or do Cylinder contribution test and replace bad injectors
Q: Truck smokes blue smoke.
A: Your Engine is burning oil. Bad rings, Turbo seals, Valve seals, Blow by ETC..
Q: Truck smokes white smoke
A: Your engine is burning coolant. Suspect EGR cooler leaking or bad head gasket.
Q:Truck smokes black smoke.
A: Black smoke usually indicates burning excess fuel. VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, Exhaust Leak to turbo, Fuel injector stuck open or leaking , CAC tank crack, Running a hot tune and or starting off in 3ed gear.
Q: Engine slowly loosing coolant
A: Leaking EGR cooler , Bad head gasket, puking coolant, leaking freeze plugs, Leaking radiator or water pump, hose between egrcooler and oil cooler leaking
Q: The nipple melted off of my de-gass tank.
A: Your oil cooler is plugged up and starving the EGR cooler for coolant turning it into a steam generator. The superheated steam is going to the De-gass tank via the hose from the manifold that runs to the nipple that just melted off. You need a coolant flush, new oil cooler and an EGR delete.
Q: What’s the white crusty stuff around my coolant tank / de-gas bottle
A: Your engine is suffering from a condition called coolant puking. Two scenarios cause this.
#1 Your oil cooler is plugged up and starving the EGR cooler for coolant turning it into a steam generator this flash boiled coolant is entering the de-gas bottle from the rubber hose that leads from the manifold and puking out as it over pressurized the de-gas bottle.
#2 You have a blown head gasket. Combustion gasses are entering the cooling system and over pressurizing it causing puking out the de-gas bottle cap which should vent at about 16 psi.
Q: How do I know if my turbo is bad.
A: A turbocharger is a very simple device basically 2 windmills on one shaft. A lot of “ bad turbo’s” on 6.0’s are simply dirty and can be restored to proper working order in about 4 hours and a little elbow grease. The exception is if the bearings are bad or if it has more than about .004 in of end play or if you can move the shaft side to side enough to cause it to rub the housing. If you can spin it by hand and it seams to move freely then there is a good chance it’s fine. Most turbo problems are bad bearings , cracks in pressurized components like hoses, boots , intercooler , or excess carbon and soot.
From time to time a VGT solenoid will fail ,but this is pretty rare. One more thing is to inspect for damaged compressor blades. The major cause fo this is aftermarket air intakes. The best thing you can do to keep your turbo happy for a long time is keep it cool and lubed and clean. This means stick with the OEM air filter unless you need to make more than 500HP.
Q: Turbo charger spools up slowly
A: VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, Exhaust Leak to turbo turbo vanes are coked up with rust and carbon.
Q: Turbo charger builds to much boost
A: vanes are coked up with rust and carbon, hot tune , stuck or faulty VGT solenoid.
Q: Low Boost levels
A: VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, CAC tank cracked Exhaust Leak to turbo turbo vanes are coked up with rust and carbon.
Q: I heard a loud pop / bang and now I can't make boost or power and my truck blows black smoke , Did I blow up my engine??
A: No Worries, Due to a recent repair or oil contamination your CAC boot has blown off under load. Clean the tubes and boots with brake cleaner then spray with hair spray or spray adhesive then reassemble. The best way to prevent this and to keep your boots from rotting out is to reroute the crank case vent.
Q: What is the turbo/ vgt relearn procedure for my 2003-04
A: KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:
15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn" its adaptive strategy.
Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the P1000 code until the Drive Cycle is completed.
Q:Truck runs poorly when hot
A: Your EGR valve is dirty and stuck open.
Q: Engine puking coolant from de-gass tank
A: Head gaskets are bad or EGR cooler and oil cooler have failed. There is a slim chance the de-gas tank cap is bad.
Q: Wrench light when towing and engine looses power
A: Some newer PCM flashes monitor EOT vs ECT delta and when it exceeds 15 deg the truck will go into limp mode. Your oil cooler is obstructed and needs to be replaced. This is a good time to do a cooling system flush and an EGR delete. This can also be caused by a t-stat that is stuck open and not allowing the coolant to warm up.
Q: Do I have a blown EGR cooler?
A: Remove the EGR valve and look down the hole, some times the truck will have to be parked nose down over night. If you see any wetness, wet gooey soot, or it looks steam cleaned, your EGR cooler is bad. This is a good time to do a delete if you can, if you can't I would recommend a new cooler from bullet proof diesel.
Q: Do I have a blown head gasket?
A: Generally if there is a slow gradual pressure increases in the cooling system over 16 PSI then this points to an EGR cooler / oil cooler failure. If the pressure in the cooling system tries to head to and exceed 20psi pretty fast in a cool motor then this points to a head gasket failure. Put a Tee in one of the rubber lines going to the de-gas tank and attach the line for your gauge to that. Or buy new hose and make a test rig to use for now and then loan to all your buds later on. This is as simple as a 3/8 hose barb Tee,5 clamps, 30 PSI gauge and some 3/8 air line. Cut 2 short stubs out of the air line to span the gap between the manifold and the de-gas tank. Next since you saved the end of the air line that has a 1/4 FNPT fitting crimped to it, the free end goes to the tee and your gauge attaches to the factory crimped on FNPT fitting. You will use a gauge with a 30 full scale reading. The cap on the De-gas tank is a 16 lb relief, this is why 16 psi is the magic number. The pressure you reach is not as important as the rate of climb. The reason for the slow increase in pressure for the EGR cooler/ oil cooler failure is as follows. The oil cooler plugs up and starves the EGR cooler for coolant thus turning it into a superheated steam generator. This point source of heat and excess pressure will lead to the EGR cooler failure. In this condition some have reported the melting nipple on the de-gas tank the attaches to a rubber hose that vents steam from the EGR cooler.
The rapid rise in pressure associated with a head gasket failure is caused by combustion gasses entering the cooling system and raising the cooling system pressure until the vent on the de-gas tank cap opens and the puking starts. I think NAPA has a test strip you can use to detect combustion gasses in the coolant.
OK so with a quick check of a saturated steam chart this is what we know.
15.3 PSIg steam equals 250 degF
20 PSIg steam equals 259 degF
What this mean is that if you take a cold truck out and run the heck out of it and it builds pressure to 20PSI or more and the coolant isn’t 260 deg then it’s a safe bet that combustion gasses are entering the cooling system because you have a bad head gasket.
Water boils at 212 deg at zero PSIg. In a closed system there is a very predictable relationship between steam pressure and steam temperature. This is why cooling systems are pressurised. This way you can have 248 deg coolant that is at about 15 PSIa and you make no steam because the coolant isn’t it’s boiling temp for that pressure, it is however saturated. Now at addition of ethylene glycol raised the boiling point too but for what we are taking about we can use a table for water-based steam. If the system doesn’t get hot enough to the point it should make steam and its building pressure you know that pressure is from a different source like combustion gasses entering the cooling system. From ---- wait for it ------ BAD HEAD GASKETS.
Q: What is the delta between EOT and ECT?
A: Delta refers to the difference between the oil and coolant temperatures. This delta should not exceed 15 deg F , if it does once the truck it up to operating temperature going straight down the highway your oil cooler is plugged up.
Q: What is a high pressure oil system leak.
A: On a 6.0 the fuel injectors are powered by high pressure oil in the range of 550 to 3500 psi. This oil is supplied by a high-pressure oil pump that is driven off the cam gear in the rear of the engine. The oil is transported via a network of connectors , tubes and passages that have o-rings , seals and connectors that over time will develop leaks. The main suspects are the stand pipes and dummy plugs under the valve covers inside the “ oil log” The next problem area on 05-07 trucks is what is know as an STC or Snap To Connect fitting. This fitting Blows apart randomly and your truck will be dead were it stops. This fitting is located on the output side of the HPOP and an updated solid part is available from Ford or International. High Pressure oil leaks can also occur at the injector o-rings or from cracked branch tubes but this is rare. The way to test for a high pressure oil leak is by injecting air into the ICP sensor port and listing for the leak. Some leakage at the HPOP shaft seal is normal. Normaly high pressure oil leaks will be characterized by high IPR values and below normal ICP values as well as hot start and rough hot idle problems.
Q: What is the best way to tell is my HPOP is going bad.
A: Remove the IPR valve and LOOK for Glitter on the screen. Any sign mean you need a HPOP as well as a new IPR valve.
Q: What are normal ICP and IPR values ?
A: Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR 29%
A: Cold engine high idle ICP= 960psi IPR 33%
A: Warm engine low idle ICP= 585psi IPR 24%
A: Warm engine high idle ICP= 735psi IPR 28%
A: If your engine requires a high IRP percentage to get the same or lower ICP you might have an internal high pressure oil leak .
Q: My engine starts fine when cold but, I shut it off to run in the gas station and now it won't start hot. When it cools off a few hours it starts right up.
A: You most likely have a high Pressure oil leak at the STC fitting, Stand pipes , Dummy Plugs or injector O-rings
Q: Ford says to only use gold coolant, all anti-freeze products the same, right ?
A: NO, all coolant products are not the same. Diesel engines have unique properties that require special inhibitors for corrosion and Cavitation. Ford Gold coolant uses silicates to perform these functions and due to the nature of the silicates this coolant breaks down and causes your oil and EGR cooler to be damaged. The better solution would be a Caterpillar EC-1 rated coolant. In NO case should you ever use green coolant in a 6.0.
Q: What is a normal FICM voltage?
A : No mater running or cranking the FICM should never fall below 46 volts.
Q: One of my batteries tested bad should I replace one or both?
A: Yes, replace both batteries as the other one is on it's way to failure as well. To get long life from dual batteries they need to be replaced in pairs. If not one is constantly charging or discharging the other. The weaker of the two is working to discharge the stronger one.
Q: My message center says TBC fault and my truck won't start, why?
A: The most likely suspect here is fuse# 22 the engine control fuse is blown. The main suspects here are shorted trailer wiring, brake controller fault, Fan clutch or wire shorted, Exhaust back pressure sensor shorted That fuse supplies power to the PCM, GPCM, ICP sensor, fan clutch and MAF sensor. 6.0's are well know for wiring harness chafing and shorting. Some have reported the dip stick rubbing on wires has caused this problem as well. Some times this will prevent a code scanner from communicating with the PCM as it has no power.
Q: How do I know if the cam and crank sensors or working with the FICM ok
A: If you have a good scanner, next time she doesn't start monitor the FICM SYNC PID. It should switch to YES if the ficm is communication with the crank sensor. The other PID to monitor would be CKP CMP SYNC STATUS, which should also switch to yes, or 1. Another great PID to monitor is the ENGINE RPM. You want a very linear, solid reading. Sporadic, or non existent would mean the crank sensor has failed. Thanks: Dazillenger
Q: My HFCM plug got stripped out what do I do now?
A: If the 6mm allen gets rolled, you can try a Torx bit and tap it in. You can drop the front drive shaft and drill into it, but not all the way thru, then try a easy-out. You can use a hammer and punch on the outer edge and tap it loose. A small dremel cutting tool to make a slot for a screw driver. Spray it first with a penetrate like Kroil or liquid wrench, PB Blaster before you try the above mentioned. To make more room to work, you can remove the straps on the u-joint on the differential with a 8mm wrench/socket. IIRC,The flange on the transfer case will require a 12pt 12mm socket/box wrench. Spray the bolts with a penetrate to help loosen the bolts. Put a reference mark on the flange of the driveshaft and flange of the transfer case so you can put it back on the same location as it came off. Thanks: Lilpooh
Q: They say not to use starting fluid on a diesel Why not and what else can I use?
A: Using ether or gasoline to start a Diesel engine that has glow plugs is a great way to launch the head right off the engine and damage other engine parts.
Some have reported good results using WD40 as a starting aid. Use at your own risk.
Q: How do I tell if my glow plugs are bad ?
A: Set your DVOM to OHMS. Touch the red lead of your DVOM to the end of the glow plug where the electrical connector plugs into (not the end that sits inside the combustion chamber), and touch the black lead to the threaded part of the glow plug. You should obtain a reading of between 0.5 to 2.0 ohms on a "good" glow plug. Any higher than that, replace it. Also plan on replacing the glow plug harnesses too, since removal of them pretty much mandates replacement.
Q: What are normal Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor readings?
A:KOEO is 15 psi
Hot idle 17 psi
30 mph is 21 psi
55 mph is 25.2 psi.
Just remmeber this is a generalrization of where they should be. From what Ive got in my notes at WOT and with the load at 99% it should be somewhere around 52.2 psi and at part throttle at 30% APP and load at 50% 45.53 psi. Thanks Justa03
|The Following User Says Thank You to HAM_RADIO_MAN For This Useful Post:|
Q: HOW DO I TEST FICM VOLTAGE?
A:***FICM voltage tests should be performed with the engine oil COLD (ie, close to ambient air temperature). This will force the FICM into it's inductive heating strategy, which will give you a worse case scenario/voltage reading. If the engine has been run (within 5-6 hours of this test), then the warm engine oil may not give you an accurate FICM voltage.
On all 2003-2007 Ford 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engines you will find the FICM bolted to the drivers side valve cover...you may need to unbolt the coolant reservoir from the 'cowl' so that you can get your arms/hands back there to work on the FICM.You don't need to drain the coolant...just unbolt the bracket that hold the coolant reservoir, and gently move it as far out of your way as possible. Be careful, as there is a plastic coolant connector that can be cracked if the coolant jug is handled forcefully.
On the top of the FICM, you will see a diamond/oval shaped metal plate...remove the two screws from that plate (Torx#20).
under that plate you will either see 7 "lugs"...or 4 "lugs" (depending on the year of the truck)...
if you have a "7 lug FICM"...you want to put one lead from your multimeter onto the upper left "lug"...and the other multimeter probe to ground (bare spot on the cylinder head, alternator bracket, negative battery terminal, etc).If you have a "4 lug FICM"...you will want to check the lug on the right (closest to the drivers side fender).
be careful NOT to lean the probe on the FICM lug...over onto the aluminum case...you might let the smoke out, LOL...
Have someone turn the key to the 'on' position (don't crank it yet)...and see what your FICM voltage is. It should be >46volts.
Next have someone crank the engine...and see what the FICM voltage is while cranking...again..should be >46volts.
Go ahead and start the engine...and see what the voltage is while idling.
If the FICM voltage drops below 46 volts...then it is "bad"... SWAMPSDIESEL
Q: How do you translate ICP voltage to pressure?
(PSI) (MPA) Voltage
0 0 . 0.2v
200 1.5 0.4v
400 3 0.73v
600 4 0.96v
800 5.5 1.2v
1000 7 1.4v
1200 8 1.6v
1400 9.7 1.9v
1600 11 2.1v
1800 12.4 2.3v
2000 13.8 2.6v
2200 15.2 2.8v
2400 16.5 3v
2600 18 3.3v
2800 19.3 3.5v
3000 20.6 3.8v
Last edited by HAM_RADIO_MAN; 02-07-2012 at 04:02 PM.
Q: I just looked at this sticky because I am having problems with my truck, then I posted a really vague rambling post and I can’t get any help why?
A: To best help you troubleshoot any problems you might be having with your truck over the Internet the members of this group need specific information. You will have to take some measurements, scan for codes, gather all the PID data from the PCM you can.
Without a physic connection to your truck solid data is the only tool we can use to help you with a solution via the web.
Here are some of the most useful bits of data to help us help you. Sometimes photos do a great job of helping explain the problem and helping the next guy to see your post solve his problem.
FICM voltage when cranking and running?
ICP and IPR data ?
T-shooting you have done ?
Have you load tested the batteries to be sure both of them are good?
Maintenance and repair history ?
What was changed last before your problem started?
Does it act up when hot or cold or both?
Were you towing or heavily loading your truck ?