Worth it? I don't know. For me I think it was. Not only does it eliminate the risk of the coolers leaking into your intake, but it looks less cluttered in the engine compartment it makes it a whole lot easier to work on things in there. That's probably the main thing I like about it. It's not in the way anymore, and I can get to parts of the engine that were basically impossible before.

It took me a while, something like 6 hours if I remember right. And it wasn't easy. I definitely enjoy not having it in there though. That's just my experience.

 

I could agree it de-clutters the engine area. That's a big bonus in itself. I'm just wondering how likely is it to cause a catastrophic engine failure if left on.

 

They can start leaking, they can cause your coolant to flash boil and puke at the degas bottle. The stock intake elbow is very restrictive. A lot of good reasons to put your hands through the meat grinder and get that crap off your engine. Lastly if you pull em off before they start leaking and gum up the EGR, if you ever have to put it back on to trade your truck or whatever, then you won't have to spend a thousand plus bucks to replace the coolers & clean the EGR valve

 

Or you can leave them on but block them with the thin block plates, that should make them last longer without beeing exposed to 1000 F exhaust gases. You can still replace the EGR valve with an elbow and put a block on that upper cooler.
I have not heard of anyone who has done it this way but i am considering it due to Swedish inspections. IF i have to put everything back it is a far more easy operation than remount the coolers.
Please correct me if i am wrong somewere

 

Thanks for the info. I am considering doing the full delete with elbow and saving the parts in case they are needed in the future. The upper cooler looks like it won't be an issue to get out but the lower one is a different story. I know the inner wheel well can be pulled out. How long of a job is it for a decent mechanic?

 

I just pulled the battery and degas bottle, didn't mess with the inner fender. Use plenty of Break Free, heat if needed (easy on the heat), The only thing I heated was the exhaust BP tube. I also used never seize on the bolts going into aluminum. Lube the o-rings on the two coolant block plugs & Y-pipe. I used a long bolt to help line up the front one. Be careful with the plastic Y pipe under the degas bottle it can be brittle. Another big plus for pulling the coolers is now I can get to my Tstats. It's also a good time to flush your coolant system since you're draining it anyway. I did that and installed my coolant filter kit. It'll take you awhile, your hands will be sore but you'll be glad when you're done.

 

The only issue I have HEARD(only heard no personal experience) of that would be a negative is that some people end up having problems with cracking the Up pipe since it is no longer supported where it once connected to the horizontal cooler. I know my shop down here will just weld the coolers up on a 6.4 and a 6.0 if you are already having work done that requires cab removal or engine removal in the 6.0 case. If not they just do block off plates, that is what I have along with the EGR Valve turned off through my tuner. Yes you still have coolant flowing through them but there is no longer hot exhaust and with them sealed on both ends I would think you are avoiding any catastrophic damage if the cooler failed. I could be completely wrong so if anyone knows different please chime in.

 

I have some CAT EC-1 waiting to go in. I monitor EOT and ECT with a Dashdaq xl. Normal driving they both run about 194 F.

 

Sounds like you're good to go. You may want to think about the coolant filter since you're draining it anyway. Ford put a sheet of paper in with my new oil cooler, and they show a pile of crap they got out of a cooling system showing why you need to flush. Made me wonder why they didn't put a filter system on at the factory.

 

Just do it…

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