[LivinNSin]

Got it, makes sense. Yes normal pressures before. Motorcraft IPR.

 

[LivinNSin]

I get this is a 6.0, but assume the IPR works in the same manner? Would this testing procedure work?

P2326, stuck IPR, Brand new IPR, too high of ICP at idle

Ok... Well I seem to have one problem right after another with my truck. I had a bad injector (brand new :doh) so I went in and changed it out. When I got the truck together I was chasing HPO leaks. Now that I have all the leaks figured out now the truck is running really weird. Seems like...

www.powerstroke.org

 

[LivinNSin]

Your analysis makes sense. Can you explain how the IPR works voltage wise. Reading it sounds like the IPR gets 12V but the PCM somehow adjusts the voltage it receives on the ground side. If the PCM were acting up could that cause the IPR to see the full 12V and stay closed?

I'll look over the pigtail again, but at fist glance I didn't see any shady wiring.

I think my next and easiest step, is to replace the new actuator with the old actuator and see what happens. If it runs the same as it did prior to my replacement I'll assume the IPR actuator at fault and request a new one.

As always, thanks for your help.

 

[LivinNSin]

Yes by actuator I was referring to the coil. Ok...took me a second but % of closed makes sense now. For a second I read your previous statement as my ICP was at 3500 but the PCM was commanding it to go as low as it could (5%) with the 5% being % the IPR was open...but the 5% would be the PCM commanding the IPR to be only 5% closed which is really 95% open.

I was thinking maybe the actuator was stuck closed for whatever reason, but sounds like the issue must be in the stem. I've requested a new one. Bust up some knuckles taking that thing in/out.

 

[LivinNSin]

Well I unscrewed the IPR and the smaller part of the stem that goes into the HPOP somehow came un screwed and stayed in the HPOP. I don't even know how that happened. I've come to the conclusion the part I received may have been some kind of chinese junk. I bought it off ebay, seller had good reviews, package was motorcraft and had correct part #, but I thought it odd all the instructions on install said use a 29mm axle socket, but needed to use a 27mm axle socket for this one. Then the issues with it being stuck closed, and now it's separated while unscrewing it. Bought a new one off rockauto (also motorcraft), and the new package had the IPR sealed and bubble wrapped, which the other one did not. My luck keeps improving.

Anyway, I can see a little piece protruding and figure only the O-ring can be holding it in place. So my plan is to get a pair of vice grips on it and hopefully pull it out. Unless somebody thinks otherwise.

 

[LivinNSin]

pray for me

 

[LivinNSin]

Well I can't get the remainder of the IPR out for the life of me. I removed the spider to try and get more room, but to no avail. Looks like the pump is coming out. The question now is do I upgrade the pump while it's out, or just see if I can get the IPR out and re-install. If it's just the O-ring holding the remainder of the IPR in place it's a hell of an O-ring. But considering the O-ring kept the second half from coming out with the rest of the IPR maybe it was the wrong size? I had pretty good ICP at full throttle so don't think I need to upgrade for my build, but now I'm wondering if the stuck IPR could have caused any internal issues to the HPOP. What I really don't want to do is get the HPOP off, find a way to get the remainder of the IPR out, re-install and find out there's some issue now. Thoughts?

 

[LivinNSin]

I torqued it to 35 ft/lbs.

 

[LivinNSin]

To be clear, my IPR separated where the smaller threads thread into the larger threads, shown here in the middle. The larger threads and everything to the right came out. There is nothing protruding from the hole when looking down vertically. I can see it when I use a mirror to look into the hole and can grasp it with a needle nose, but for the life of me it won't pull out. The only thing holding it in place should be the o-ring.

I guess the only other option would be to try to center the piece in place, apply loctite to the piece i extracted and try to screw it back on....then let it set and see if that helps.

 

[LivinNSin]

I don't think the wire would work. I may be able to get it in the hole, but if the force I'm pulling with isn't working I think it would just bend a wire.

NoRalph funny you mention those because orginally i went to home depot for just that tool. I can grasp onto it, but can't pull it out.

looks jut like this

Stanley 6-1/2 in. Locking Pliers-STHT84404 - The Home Depot

BUT...maybe I can get a screw driver in there behind the jaws.

 

[LivinNSin]

Well that was a pain in the ***.....but it worked. On the way home I bought another vice grip with the end loop adjustment at the end, which saved me. I tried using a screw driver in the between the jaws but it was too far away from the pump to get any leverage. I used the one with the end loop adjustment and shoved a screw driver in what just happened to be an empty screw hole in the top of the valley and used that to pry. I bent one smaller screw driver before the bigger one popped it out.

Now from trying to pull that out with both needle nose and vice grips i ripped up the threads on the side of the IPR...which is no big deal because i wasn't going to use that POS anyway, but there were little metal shavings in the opening of the HPOP. I'm petrified of getting those shavings in the oil. You can see them on the last pic. Should I remove the HPOP to be safe, or clean out the IPR opening threads best I can and re-install? If I do get any of those metal shavings in the oil what would be the worst outcome? Thanks.

 

[LivinNSin]

To clarify you're saying to slide the part back in without o-ring just to confirm there is no resistance before installing the new IPR?

Yea noticed the loctite when I blew up the pic. Not sure what happened but I did make sure i only torqued per spec. I still think it's a Chinese knockoff and I wonder if the O-ring is bigger than OEM?

I have a mechanics magnet, so that would work to remove the metal particles.

 

[LivinNSin]

IPR is in and truck is running. Only thing I noticed different is the IPR value at idle is now a hard 11%, ICP is mid to upper 500s, where as before it was 9ish with ICP - 497-510. Runs great and the numbers seem fine, just curious why the IPR hits that 11% and doesn't vary at all....just sits at 11. I'm guessing it's not an issue.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[LivinNSin]

It's 11% at idle. When I say it doesn't move, I mean it stays at exactly 11%. Guess I'm used to it bouncing around at least a little.

It goes up normally when driving.

 

[LivinNSin]

10-4, thanks again for your help.

 

[LivinNSin]

OMG I am living this nightmare right now... I bought the same SUPPOSED OEM IPR on ebay... Yesterday truck just lost power and puked all the oil out of itself. I pulled the "new" ipr out and it left that front part in the block.. I still have a nub sticking out but can't seem to get anything on it to try and yank it... I had the truck towed to Ford dealership to see if they could do anything, but then thought about the locktite trick.. Is that what helped out get it out enough to grab with the pliers or ??? Here's a picture of what I have New vs Old.

View attachment 783872

LivinNSin, any chance i can get your phone number to call and pick your brain about this? If I can get away without having to pay Ford to remove it I may be a lot happier(if that is possible)...I will send you a private message.. Just need someone to walk me through the process so I can see if it's worth my time/energy....

Called but no answer and shot you a text. Read post 24 above that’s how i got mine out. had to remove the spider to get enough room.