It works the Other way around though...

"Open" would have so much pressure being bleed off that the ICP would be very Low. Stuck "Closed" means the ICP is very High (as 3,500 is and I assume you had normal pressures from it before you changed the IPR?) BUT,,, remember that the Only reading you can get from the IPR is what the PCM is commanding it to do (and with a maxed-out ICP it would be commanding as low as it could - that 5%). The IPR has no Feedback to tell you where it really is.

So, the first thing I have to ask is, it this a Real, Ford/IH IPR or one from the Auto Parts Store?

 

Got it, makes sense. Yes normal pressures before. Motorcraft IPR.

 

I get this is a 6.0, but assume the IPR works in the same manner? Would this testing procedure work?

P2326, stuck IPR, Brand new IPR, too high of ICP at idle

Ok... Well I seem to have one problem right after another with my truck. I had a bad injector (brand new :doh) so I went in and changed it out. When I got the truck together I was chasing HPO leaks. Now that I have all the leaks figured out now the truck is running really weird. Seems like...

www.powerstroke.org

 

Yea, similar IPR, they have a screen, we don't but you can open it up if you want to -> How to Rebuild the IPR on 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel | Diesel IQ

But,,, if it turns-out to be bad you should just be able to return it and, if looking "tampered with", you might not be able to.

Here's what happens with the IPR though, because of where it's located the plug that goes to it is subjected to a lot of Heat (and maybe Oil from HiPres hose leaks) so those wires often get their insulation pretty well Baked and it's common for that insulation to crack and fall off. Take a really good look at the IPR's connector and the wires that go to it.

The "testing procedure" of applying 12v to it (which also forces it Fully Closed) works but, I'm not sure what that's gonna tell you, it's more often we see stuck IPRs that are stuck Open, and out-of-the-box Closed would mean it's just put together Wrong I'd think...

 

Your analysis makes sense. Can you explain how the IPR works voltage wise. Reading it sounds like the IPR gets 12V but the PCM somehow adjusts the voltage it receives on the ground side. If the PCM were acting up could that cause the IPR to see the full 12V and stay closed?

I'll look over the pigtail again, but at fist glance I didn't see any shady wiring.

I think my next and easiest step, is to replace the new actuator with the old actuator and see what happens. If it runs the same as it did prior to my replacement I'll assume the IPR actuator at fault and request a new one.

As always, thanks for your help.

 

What's being sent to the IPRs coil is a rapid cycle of power from On-to-Off (Open = Off / Closed=On). This makes the valve (pintle) inside go from bleeding-off pressure to keeping the full pressure that the HPOP is making. This gives the system a average between the two and is how HiPres Oil gets regulated by it (the PCM has a Table it uses to meet Power & RPM needs and changes that %).

So, what you read is that % of Open/Closed that's being sent to it (again, it's a percentage of CLOSED that we read). There is no 100% (as when you apply 12v to it) and there is no 0% because it takes time for that pintle to move back & forth (I think the Max is really around 65%, although some scanner sw might say higher, and 5% is as about as Low as it goes when running)

When you say "Actuator", is that the Coil that surrounds the stem? There are two parts to the IPR and the coil is what's doing the actuation by pulsing the magnetic field that works on the pintle inside the stem. If Bad, and it can't create that field, so the pintle would just be blown-back by oil pressure, giving you no resistance to a full bleed and Low ICP (which isn't what's you're seeing).

 

Yes by actuator I was referring to the coil. Ok...took me a second but % of closed makes sense now. For a second I read your previous statement as my ICP was at 3500 but the PCM was commanding it to go as low as it could (5%) with the 5% being % the IPR was open...but the 5% would be the PCM commanding the IPR to be only 5% closed which is really 95% open.

I was thinking maybe the actuator was stuck closed for whatever reason, but sounds like the issue must be in the stem. I've requested a new one. Bust up some knuckles taking that thing in/out.

 

Well I unscrewed the IPR and the smaller part of the stem that goes into the HPOP somehow came un screwed and stayed in the HPOP. I don't even know how that happened. I've come to the conclusion the part I received may have been some kind of chinese junk. I bought it off ebay, seller had good reviews, package was motorcraft and had correct part #, but I thought it odd all the instructions on install said use a 29mm axle socket, but needed to use a 27mm axle socket for this one. Then the issues with it being stuck closed, and now it's separated while unscrewing it. Bought a new one off rockauto (also motorcraft), and the new package had the IPR sealed and bubble wrapped, which the other one did not. My luck keeps improving.

Anyway, I can see a little piece protruding and figure only the O-ring can be holding it in place. So my plan is to get a pair of vice grips on it and hopefully pull it out. Unless somebody thinks otherwise.

 

Yea so that does sound like you received a bad (maybe even counterfeit) IPR ~ That Sucks

And if you look at the link above, on rebuilding the IPR, all that should be holding that part into the HPOP is the friction of the O-ring.

Hopefully,,, it will just pull-out for you...

 

pray for me

 

Well I can't get the remainder of the IPR out for the life of me. I removed the spider to try and get more room, but to no avail. Looks like the pump is coming out. The question now is do I upgrade the pump while it's out, or just see if I can get the IPR out and re-install. If it's just the O-ring holding the remainder of the IPR in place it's a hell of an O-ring. But considering the O-ring kept the second half from coming out with the rest of the IPR maybe it was the wrong size? I had pretty good ICP at full throttle so don't think I need to upgrade for my build, but now I'm wondering if the stuck IPR could have caused any internal issues to the HPOP. What I really don't want to do is get the HPOP off, find a way to get the remainder of the IPR out, re-install and find out there's some issue now. Thoughts?

 

How much force did you use when installing that IPR? -- I mean, it should slip in with only a little force as the oring slides in the bore

 

I torqued it to 35 ft/lbs.

 

The part of the old IPR should have threads protruding from the pump housing -- does yours?

 

Righty tighty - Lefty loosey

Just unscrew the the part out of the pump housing -- could have put the old one back together, but not now

It is not uncommon for the top part of an IPR to come loose -- should have has a little blue loctite on those threads when it was assembled, so it would not separate, but stuff happens .

 

To be clear, my IPR separated where the smaller threads thread into the larger threads, shown here in the middle. The larger threads and everything to the right came out. There is nothing protruding from the hole when looking down vertically. I can see it when I use a mirror to look into the hole and can grasp it with a needle nose, but for the life of me it won't pull out. The only thing holding it in place should be the o-ring.

I guess the only other option would be to try to center the piece in place, apply loctite to the piece i extracted and try to screw it back on....then let it set and see if that helps.

 

View attachment 780174
To be clear, my IPR separated where the smaller threads thread into the larger threads, shown here in the middle. The larger threads and everything to the right came out. There is nothing protruding from the hole when looking down vertically. I can see it when I use a mirror to look into the hole and can grasp it with a needle nose, but for the life of me it won't pull out. The only thing holding it in place should be the o-ring.

I guess the only other option would be to try to center the piece in place, apply loctite to the piece i extracted and try to screw it back on....then let it set and see if that helps.

OMG I am living this nightmare right now... I bought the same SUPPOSED OEM IPR on ebay... Yesterday truck just lost power and puked all the oil out of itself. I pulled the "new" ipr out and it left that front part in the block.. I still have a nub sticking out but can't seem to get anything on it to try and yank it... I had the truck towed to Ford dealership to see if they could do anything, but then thought about the locktite trick.. Is that what helped out get it out enough to grab with the pliers or ??? Here's a picture of what I have New vs Old.

LivinNSin, any chance i can get your phone number to call and pick your brain about this? If I can get away without having to pay Ford to remove it I may be a lot happier(if that is possible)...I will send you a private message.. Just need someone to walk me through the process so I can see if it's worth my time/energy....

 

I think that would push the part deeper -- can you use needle nose vice grips in there?

Yeah I forgot about the 7.3 IPR being made differently -- the later valve has the threads only on the main body (and would still stick out the hole)

 

If the internal valve and spring are out -- you could fashion a wire with a sharp 90* bend to hook into one of the holes on the body -- coat hanger is good wire to use

 

I'm thinking of the little pair of needle-nosed Vice Grips I have w/screwdriver thru the opening in the jaws to lever against something below and pry straight back with...

 

I don't think the wire would work. I may be able to get it in the hole, but if the force I'm pulling with isn't working I think it would just bend a wire.

NoRalph funny you mention those because orginally i went to home depot for just that tool. I can grasp onto it, but can't pull it out.

looks jut like this

Stanley 6-1/2 in. Locking Pliers-STHT84404 - The Home Depot

BUT...maybe I can get a screw driver in there behind the jaws.

 

Yea, that's was what I was thinking of...

 

Tap a tapered punch in the valve hole, and crank the engine over -- the pressure will blow the part out
Gotta choose a punch that fits the hole, to make the seal

 

Well that was a pain in the ***.....but it worked. On the way home I bought another vice grip with the end loop adjustment at the end, which saved me. I tried using a screw driver in the between the jaws but it was too far away from the pump to get any leverage. I used the one with the end loop adjustment and shoved a screw driver in what just happened to be an empty screw hole in the top of the valley and used that to pry. I bent one smaller screw driver before the bigger one popped it out.

Now from trying to pull that out with both needle nose and vice grips i ripped up the threads on the side of the IPR...which is no big deal because i wasn't going to use that POS anyway, but there were little metal shavings in the opening of the HPOP. I'm petrified of getting those shavings in the oil. You can see them on the last pic. Should I remove the HPOP to be safe, or clean out the IPR opening threads best I can and re-install? If I do get any of those metal shavings in the oil what would be the worst outcome? Thanks.

 

Glad you got it out -- I can see the red loctite in the threads from your pictures -- curious as to what caused it to loosen off

Personally I would pop the oring off and push the part back in the bore -- it should slide in with no resistance

Stick a mechanics magnet in the hole and "fish" out any metal particles that way

 

The part on the tip is called an edge filter -- basically fits the bore with a little crack around the edge, for the oil to pass -- junk from the pump is caught between the bore and the protruding "filter"

Never really supposed to be anything in the edge filter -- it is only a safety device