Good article, thanks for sharing. I knew additives helped, but never knew they are almost required. I've been using archoil fuel treatment in every fill up. Is there something better that I should be using?

 

I know a lot of guys seem to like Archoil.

I have been using Howe's.

My big takeaways from the article is the impact of cetane improvement and the importance of increasing fuel lubricity (which I already knew).

The reduction in sulfur content since my 6.0 was built was an eye opener.

The third important factor is detergent action. Not sure if Howe's does that.

 

I've had better luck with Diesel Kleene and Standadyne. I tried Archoil, but my 6.7 didn't like it. It seemed to regen more and the MPG wasn't as good.

 

Interesting read!
I've tried Hotshots Secret Every Day Diesel, Archoil 9100, Diesel Kleen (white bottle), & Howe's. Diesel Kleen seems to work the best for my '01 7.3L. I also found a company that sells a Biomass fuel. It's a renewable, it has no petroleum diesel in it and is compliant with the ASTM D975 standard. My trucks seems to run a bit quieter and a bit peppier. Since I've been using it, I've used less additives. Anytime I fill up in town, I use that fuel.

 

Thank you for the article.
Its a very interesting read

 

While reading through the article some questions and thoughts came up. Is there one additive that does it all? Can mixing additives be detrimental for certain engines? What is the final $/gal of the fuel? But that should be looked at in conjunction with fuel economy and lower maintenance costs.
Then there’s this “carbon footprint “ thing. Earth is based on carbon and most fuels whether green or not is some form of a hydro-carbon chain. So the manipulators won’t quit until we can no longer drive our diesels. But what’s everybody’s thoughts about my additive questions?

 

While reading through the article some questions and thoughts came up. Is there one additive that does it all? Can mixing additives be detrimental for certain engines? What is the final $/gal of the fuel? But that should be looked at in conjunction with fuel economy and lower maintenance costs.
Then there’s this “carbon footprint “ thing. Earth is based on carbon and most fuels whether green or not is some form of a hydro-carbon chain. So the manipulators won’t quit until we can no longer drive our diesels. But what’s everybody’s thoughts about my additive questions?

So glad you asked that question. It made be look into fuel additives including the one I use, which turns out doesn't improve cetane.

As I read the article, higher cetane rating leads to more complete combustion. That should lead to better fuel economy and fewer emissions.

The latter would lead to less stuff in the DPF and fewer regens for those whose trucks are so equipped.

 

Here is one product that seems quite popular and does all three:

Everyday Diesel Treatment (EDT) | Top Diesel Fuel Additive

Improve power, prevent rust, boost cetane up to 7 points & more with Everyday Diesel Treatment. This EDT fuel additive is recommended for all diesel engines.

www.hotshotsecret.com

 

Here is another popular product:

AR6500 Diesel Treatment

Boost performance and fuel economy with AR6500 Diesel Treatment. Improve cetane, enhance lubricity, and keep your fuel system clean. Buy now for a more efficient engine.

www.archoil.com

 

You all do remember this test, actual comparisons of the products available back then,,, still somewhat relevant I'm sure...

http://rivrdog.typepad.com/files/copy-of-diesel-fuel-additive-version-3.pdf

 

You all do remember this test, actual comparisons of the products available back then,,, still somewhat relevant I'm sure...

http://rivrdog.typepad.com/files/copy-of-diesel-fuel-additive-version-3.pdf

I do remember seeing that.

How nice it would be if someone would repeat the test with current products.

 

Even if you’re in my situation and don’t have a DPF, a better burning fuel would be a plus.

 

I agree.

More complete combustion=less fuel wasted.

 

Good article.

I’ve been using kleen flo disel fuel conditioner for a long time in cold conditions. Only evidence I have it works, filters have never plugged.

Now and then I use Archoil fuel additive, I can’t tell any difference. I used to use MMO when running a 6.0 on dry JetA, I didn’t run it on that very often though. Never had an issue.

Slightly on and off topic - generically speaking - I got flamed on here yrs ago for mentioning it, best diesel additive for lube and increasing BTU’s I’ve ever used is atf. I got that from a pump rebuilder many yrs ago, (he’s long retired and probably passed on now). I Was having pump issues on a couple of h/e diesels, dry fuel. He knew it right away and told me to start running it. That solved it - not one issue after that. I don’t think I’d run it anything with a DPF. Not even sure about something with a cat converter. I used to put about 1 quart for every 15 gals. It was never a precise science with partial filled tanks. These were all 1950-1980’s engines.

I used the most inexpensive generic atf I could find. I don’t know about running that in a modern engine with heui, cats, DPF, def, etc. I’ve never done it, don’t know enough about it. If it comes up, or you decide to try it - one thing to keep in mind is it’ll tint your fuel red, if you’re in an area that checks for colored fuel that might make for an interesting conversation…

I’d be more curious to hear from people who’ve never used anything, what their mileage is or was, and if injectors or pumps were needed and when.

 

Slightly on and off topic - generically speaking - I got flamed on here yrs ago for mentioning it, best diesel additive for lube and increasing BTU’s I’ve ever used is atf.

We've used Atf quite a bit in our 6.0s and so far no issues helps lube Injectors for sure

 

I am at 245k miles and on original injectors. I have used Stanadyne Performance maybe 1/3 of the time ....... ie - whenever I think about it. I have also used some DieselKleen, but not very often (only when the Stanadyne runs out, and I am waiting on an order). In the early years, I added about 1-2 quarts of biodiesel to each fill up. That was a PAIN.

I still use the Stanadyne and I remember to add it about half the time (I remember to use it a bit more frequently now that I am retired).

I have had to replace the fuel pump once. I absolutely do not believe that any additive would have given my fuel pump any more (or less for that matter) longevity.

@Jeff-F350 - where do you find a BTU per gallon (or liter) number for ATF? I have not been able to find a reliable source for that information.

TCW3 2 cycle oil used as an additive has been shown to improve lubricity.

If a person has a steel fuel tank (w/ internal coating like the cab and chassis models), I would really think hard about which additive to use!

 

Oh geez. I don’t know where you’d find it specifically Bismic.

That is all info from quite a while ago now. If I’m being asked to back it up with specificity, I honestly can’t. I’d have to do all the research on it, and I am too lazy to do so now.

I just know it works well from personal experience.

 

I am not questioning your post. It is just that I have looked several times in the past (same with TCW3 oil) and the information is conflicting and usually "questionable" as to the source of BTU values. A person can do a search and find people claiming it is higher, and people insisting that it is lower, so my conclusion has been that it is hard to know for certain. The key point really isn't the BTU content anyway. Adding a quart of high BTU content additive is immaterial really (1 quart in a tank that holds 120 + quarts) . Now if it can improve cetane, that is a bit different. I admit - often times I am curious to a fault ......

 

I am not questioning your post. It is just that I have looked several times in the past (same with TCW3 oil) and the information is conflicting and usually "questionable" as to the source of BTU values. A person can do a search and find people claiming it is higher, and people insisting that it is lower, so my conclusion has been that it is hard to know for certain. The key point really isn't the BTU content anyway. Adding a quart of high BTU content additive is immaterial really (1 quart in a tank that holds 120 quarts) . Now if it can improve cetane, that is a bit different. I admit - often times I am curious to a fault ......

Yeah, I get it. I’m usually curious too. Maybe it doesn’t at the end of the day - add btu. I don’t even remember specifically where I got it.. I think from the pump rebuilder. Can’t remember now. I’ve been operating and taking care of equipment since I was a kid, before I could legally drive, too much info has been lost from memory.

All I know is running it in equipment for yrs / decades now, has worked well, and no more ‘dry’ pump problems. That was what was important to me. I fill in now and then when they are short handed, and the machines are still all running well. I’m always harping on them to make sure they add atf so they don’t tear up the pumps..

Just passing on what I can. I’m not an engineer. ymmv out there.

I agree on the entertainment vs info internet stuff.

 

After that video Project Farm dropped a couple years ago where the common brands on the shelf were all complete garbage, I started using strictly Hot Shots brand and nothing else. I mean, it was horrible how pathetic the Power Service, Stanadyne, etc. products were. I’ve also tried Howe’s but their “anti-gel” still allowed the fuel in my tractor to freeze solid despite using a triple dose. Just garbage. I guess that’s why all of those brands are sold in stores. I will order Hot Shots from Amazon or somewhere else online from now on.

 

LOL. Maybe a dictionary definition of the words pathetic and horrible might help explain things also.

Talking about "entertainment purposes" - This is as entertaining as oil threads! The specific words in the video - "Hot Shots and Stanadyne did very good" ............ pathetic and horrible, lol.

EDIT - I will say that the refrigerator test was interesting, and probably helpful for the percentage of people that see temperatures that low (-20F), and lower.

ALSO .....

I know the video was entitled "Antigel", but he went on to discuss anti-corrosion and lubricity.
SO ...............

Additives are also intended to "de-mulsify" water (Ford recommendation is for a water demulsifier, and NOT a water dispersant - and HotShots is a dispersant!), reduce microbial growth as a result (and if microbial growth is reduced, so is corrosion), and to improve Cetane. These aspects were not included in the video, but are important ones for improving fuel "quality".

If additives are important to a 6.0L owner - it would be good to consider the entire slate of improvements offered.

 

Here is the "referenced" Project Farm video on fuel additives. The results are a bit different (actually QUITE a bit) than described in the post above, lol.

Several brands did well at improving lubricity, far from pathetic. Same with the improvement in the gelling test - several did well in that test.

Also some decent results on the corrosion test, although I don't see that as being all that applicable.

The ignitability test w/ a lighter is really quite laughable IMO (at least w/ regards to diesel engines). Cetane is what is important.

 

How could you possibly watch that video and conclude that what I said wasn't accurate? Hot Shots was better in lubricity, anti-corrosion, AND anti-gel versus the other brands. Some of the brands even failed at the anti-gel test, such as the Power Service 911. I guess they called that product 911 because if you use it you'll need help. The Howes, Stanadyne, etc. looked like milkshakes. There was a CLEAR winner in that video, as I posted above. Perhaps you should watch it again.

 

You have to pay close attention to what information on the net is for entertainment vs education.

Even my beloved daves auto center has gotten bit by the "views" bug from time to time.

 

That guy has been popping up in my feed a lot lately. He comes off as an arrogant ***hole. Apparently some other viewers take him that way too because yesterday I noticed that he posted a "response" video to another mechanic who called him out on the carpet for his claims.

Conversely, Todd (Project Farm) seems genuine and he does use quite a bit of science, instrumentation, and procedure to do what he does. Interesting to me how different people receive information from others in such different ways.

 

I picked up some Hot Shots EDT at Walmart yesterday.

 

I want to see somebody test this -
Exergy Diesel Additive 16oz - E09 00006
Claims highest lubricity out of 17 brands?

Found this test done a long time ago. Some good info as well.

 

It would be nice if Exergy told us what the dosing is.

 

Project Farm is there for one reason and One Reason ONLY... To make MONEY on Amazon sales. He's not going to "rate" products, no matter their significance in the marketplace, if you can't click on the link for him to profit from. Why else would he do this comparison and not include the winner of the former testing (OptiLube)?

So, he contrives the importance of these "tests", he is the sole judge of their importance (have you seen him drag an object over the hood, with a fishing scale on it, to determine something about the wax that's applied???). Much of what testing he does is actually pretty good but often, with little actual "Science".

YES, Entertainment and Profit drive everything but I enjoy the channel sometimes!

 

I don’t have time to watch videos but how did opti lube do???

 

I'm with you!

Video is such a time consuming way to convey information.

But reading is too much trouble for some.

 

OH I don't "watch" them much,,, you grab the red dot and drag it to the right (FF Vid) until you see a White Background with the Graph results. I pause at each one to read those results. You can get the whole thing over with in less than a min.

To my disappointment, he did not test the OptiLube (again, much to the tests discredit...)

 

Sorry boys, Optilube didnt give him an amazon affiliate link.

Pinned by Project Farm

@ProjectFarm

3 years ago
Thanks for requesting this showdown video and please let me know which brands to test in the next round. Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order).

Thank you, Todd Power

Service Diesel Fuel Supplement: https://amzn.to/3l8mfmc
Power Service Diesel 911: https://amzn.to/32g5wEY
Howes: https://amzn.to/3j4TepK
Hot Shot's: https://amzn.to/34lL1ct
Stanadyne: https://amzn.to/3j6rIs2
Amsoil: https://amzn.to/31fF1jE

 

Question from a Texas boy ...........

How significant is the need for antigel across the northern border? Do you guys need to have it in EVERY tank for the winter months? Do you start adding it even during months when a winter storm MIGHT happen (even if it would be a rare event)? Do you need to protect to lower temps than -20? Say -40? Do you watch the weather forecasts like a hawk, and add it only as needed based on these forecasts?

Just curious! One of these days I may want to take a trip and moose hunt!

 

In Northern BC here our fuel gets pre treated from November to March
And we don't have to add anti gel unless it's colder than -35 C

 

From someone who runs the east coast, no.

Our fuel is treated during the winter when its put in the ground and you NEVER see anything -20 south of NY... ever.

I've only seen issues running a larger in bed tank from south to north, because of windchill that has to be treated.

 

I've only seen issues running a larger in bed tank from south to north, because of windchill that has to be treated.

I beg to differ. It's a small point, but...

Wind chill is a physiological phenomenon.

Metal objects are not affected.

Wind may affect the rate at which an object arrives at ambient temperature.

It will not cause an object to cool to a temperature lower than ambient air temperature.

 

I hear what you’re saying MTPaul and agree that wind can’t lower the temperature less than ambient, but that’s true for living and non-living things alike. Wind removes the thermal barrier protecting the body (any type of body) which in turn allows it to reach ambient temperatures quicker. Fuel lines gel very fast on a trailered backhoe that was loaded under its own power only to die when reaching highway speeds.
And we’re not including compressed air in the discussion. So both situations are correct. There is a wind chilling effect on living creatures, it removes more body heat, just as it does on non-living things.