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installed asi preformance radiator

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31K views 20 replies 12 participants last post by  Nickjames525  
#1 ·
My stock radiator started leaking awhile ago and I was looking at a Mishimoto radiator on ebay for almost $400.00 or a asi performance rad for $199.00. But after seeing post after post of leaking Mishimoto rads I went with the asi. I was really impressed in the quality of the (cheap) radiator the ony thing that I didn't like is my stock transmission cooler lines was so rusted I couldn't take it off the old rad with out breaking it so I end up using one of the supplied trans line adapter with it. They are only 1/4" id and the stock one is 1/2" id give or take. I'll be changing that. But my old coolant temp ranged from 177-184 now I'm around 173-184.
I've been checking all my fluids for signs of leaks and haven't found anything.
I know there has been some questions on the forums about using the (cheap) asi rads on our trucks so I figured i'd put my 2 cents in.
 
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#2 ·
I just bought a Moshi for my OBS a few weeks ago and have no issues with it. I put one in my 6.0 about a year go and and one in my 95 Mustangs years ago... Never had a problem with any of them, knock on wood.
 
#3 ·
I haven't seen a Mishimoto rad leak but they do cause overheating problems on the 6.0.
 
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#5 ·
Why do they cause overheating issues????
 
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#4 ·
Running down the highway my temps are bouncing from 179-184 doing 80 no load just tools.
 
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#6 ·
You need a thermostat operating temperature is 190F

Why do they cause overheating issues????
There are several threads on here about it but basically, the thinner core = less heat transfer. One guy thought he blow a HG because he kept overheating when towing up a hill, bulletproofing it didn't stop the overheating replaced the Mishimoto rad with an OEM one and overheating stopped.
 
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#7 ·
Any pics of the ASI?? I broke the nipple up top going to reservoir, as many have before and threw a barbed fitting into it but its starting to seep again. Also have heard naysayers about the Mishimotos along with positive reviews but if a rad costs half as much does just as good of job or better I'm down.
 
#8 ·
No pics of the rad when I got it.
 
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#9 ·
Overall nice piece in your eyes though? Fitment etc. Seeing you had an issue with your old trans lines,, If a guy is able to remove them the ASI is a direct swap correct?
 
#10 ·
It is a direct drop in swap. they do provide tranny line adapters. but you don't need them. the only issue I had is the new asi rad is 1/8" or so taller and I had to shave my bolt holes lower to get the shroud to bolt to the rad. Not a huge issue.
 
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#12 ·
I have two trucks, one has the mishimoto in it and the other one has the BPD radiator in it, the BPD is half the price and a much better looking unit and a bigger radiator than the mishimoto. The core thickness of the mishimoto is roughly 1.5" and on their website it says 1.88 core thickness, so that means maybe they have change the design up a little, plus I have read that on some of the forums that if you are having heat issues with the old style radiator they will possibly replace it. Maybe a little off topic, sorry for rambling on, but the first chance i get i will replace the mishimoto with another BPD radiator.. Did it again...Rambling on again.
 
owns 2015 Ford F250 Lariat
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#15 ·
I have about 2000 miles on my mishi radiator now without a problem.. I can't get the truck over 175-180 no matter what I do. Even towing at 100* Cruising last night at 75 mph with 60* ambient temp I was between 136-142 degrees, and the thermostat is working properly. Oil temp is typically ten degrees cooler than water and is NEVER higher than water temp unless just sitting there.. then it'll get 4-5 degrees above water temp. I also use electric fans. I didn't notice any difference in temp from ford fan clutch and radiator to mishi rad/flex a lites. truck runs the exact same temp. I haven't pulled more than 8k lbs with it and in the good ole state of Texas we don't exactly have anything I'd call a hill. Maybe it isn't a great example. I only paid 300 for the radiator though..
I really do not know why this truck runs so cool. Since studding it and adding fuel, air and other stuff to it it has been very cold blooded. Tore it down for studs and a bunch of parts and it would get to 200 no problem, but immediately after all the parts went on it won't even make it up to temp. The other day pulling 8k with the a/c on 168 was as hot as it got.
 
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#16 ·
sounds like a stuck thermo, i know you said it's all working properly, but clearly, something is off. Either you have a faulty coolant sensor or the thermo is in fact not working and stuck open or not seating correctly. It should only open right around 190 and full open at like 200 something. You have to be in bypass mode as it's very purpose is to hold fluid in and let it out only after a certain temp. Or you are running some new mystery coolant.

Are you running an OEM Thermo or a colder thermo by chance?
 
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#17 ·
Replaced the stat a bit ago and it does the same thing. I run elc coolant.. I'm uncertain why it's staying so cool. I do have an egr removed intake. So nothing flows through it, and that may be part of it. Oil cooler is just plated off on my MPD plate.
 
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#18 ·
You obviously have that elusive unicorn 6.0. If you can't get an engine that has ~400 psi compression and runs ~1000° cylinder temperatures to get over 180° coolant temperatures, it's a special motor. IMO, you need a thermostat.
 
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#20 ·
Yeah I've been through it all. I turn wrenches for a living. Lead tech in a fairly large diesel shop. I just don't worry about it a whole lot. Anything over 125* is okay. Temps are always spot on where they should be on startup. I can go drive it around then for an hour jump out and touch just about anything.. it never gets warm. Even my intermediate pipe in between the two turbos doesn't get hot. Radiator hose is never warm. The oil cooler gets toasty but still cool enough I can touch it just fine. Never builds hardly any cooling system pressure. I guess I've built a decent running 6.0? Idk. Lol And yeah it's the Maryland performance diesel kit. Uses a fluidyne cooler I've mounted in the bumper where the fog lights were.
 
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#21 ·
Stat is fine, two ford oem stats doing the same thing? Unlikely. I drove it an hour in 15* weather with windchill 0* and the oil hit literally 100.3 degrees, coolant was 120 and that was at 80 mph. Even if the stat was sticking open, the truck would still make it up to temp when it's warm outside and driving it around. 6.4s and dmaxs have tstat problems causing it to not get up to temp fast enough, however if you drive them around they'll always get up to temp eventually. Towing is definitely going to be enough to push through a sticking thermostat. I only have two tunes, reduced fuel and full fuel. I'm towing on a +-600rwhp tune. I've never pulled it off that reduced fuel tune. Trans is already not happy and I've lost the headgaskets once already since the twins went on. 2500 miles on this set of gaskets, hoping they'll make it till summer and I'll take a trip out to phx to have my heads oringed. Even when I blew the headgaskets, 50* ambient it never got over 144 degrees. I know HG don't really affect temp all that much, but still.
 
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