[06Mike]

Need your help. I just did a Barder 1.5, Ported Intake Manifold, Driven Diesel RR, S&B CAI, Metal Cold Side Pipe with Riff Raff boots and a TB 4" Exhaust with no cat. I am on a stock fuel system and injectors. I also removed the scoop in the uppipe and welded a steel freeze plug in the uppipe side of the EGR cooler. I have done the bulletproofing and the FICM repaired with the Atlas 40. Stock wheels and tires. I started an other thread about MAP, BAR & EBP (Here : http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/639322-map-bar-ebp.html ). I am hitting 1300 degrees with the stock tune going 70 mph at 10lbs of boost on a slight grade. The SRL+ nets me 1250 degrees. This combo should give less EGT's not more. I am pushing way more air. Everything is tight. So all you guru's, what am I missing?

 

[JGman141]

Possiable boost/exhaust leak, also have you had your tune updated yet

 

[06Mike]

No leaks. Everything has been double checked. Just got the SRL+ from Matt today. It also does it with stock programming.

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

Don't you need tunes specifically for that turbo?

 

[06Mike]

Yes the SRL+ address all the upgrades. Same route for 3 tunes. Stock, SRL+ and IDP Xtremes. All high EGT's. I ordered a new EV2 Pyrometer tonight just to rule out the old pyrometer that was used in 3 different trucks and purchased in 2004.

 

[windrunner408]

Bro, if you're truly hitting 1300+ degrees going 70 w/10 psi of boost, then you either have one major exhaust leak or your turbo is producing a TON of back pressure. Either way, it's not spinning very fast and you are probably using a lot of throttle to maintain speed. If you are not using more than like 30-40% throttle, then your EGT gauge is screwed.

 

[peixinho]

I am going with exhaust leak also.


10psi at cruising is pretty high. How big of a grade?

Does it jump right up to 1300 or does it slowly climb up to 1300 after a minute or two of driving?

What size tires are you running? Bigger tires at 70mph could be slightly lugging the motor while going up hill

What are your rpms? Going up a hill with the 10 bladed turbine runs best above 2000rpms

 

[06Mike]

I don't have a leak. Stock tires/wheels. 3.73:1 gearing. 70 puts me just under 2k rpm's. My EBP reading on the SC2 was 26 - 28. I did order a new gauge tonight. I'm stuck. This makes no sense.

 

[06Mike]

I am going with exhaust leak also.


10psi at cruising is pretty high. How big of a grade?

Does it jump right up to 1300 or does it slowly climb up to 1300 after a minute or two of driving?

What size tires are you running? Bigger tires at 70mph could be slightly lugging the motor while going up hill

What are your rpms? Going up a hill with the 10 bladed turbine runs best above 2000rpms

It gets to 1300 pretty fast and holds.

 

[bondajb]

10 psi @ 28 ebp cruising @ 70 is crazy. Check to see if map hose or barbed fitting got damaged.. is it possible a hotter ficm tune was loaded. If it holds 1300 that is not bad.. what is vgt% and maf??

 

[turbotibbo]

Check for sticking callipers

 

[windrunner408]

...My EBP reading on the SC2 was 26 - 28...

This was what I was wanting to know right here. Like mentioned, check your MAP and EBP sensors first, but it could very well be the turbo. I had a turbo where the bearings ate themselves for whatever reason and like you I had no leaks. Best of luck man.

 

[06Mike]

I'm going to put the stock charger back on today and see. What should I be seeing on the EBP?

 

[HeavyAssault]

What are you using to read EBP?? How long have you been running the new tuning??

 

[06Mike]

What are you using to read EBP?? How long have you been running the new tuning??

SG2 to read EBP. New tuning as of Sunday morning. But that shouldn't matter as it is doing it with stock programming too.

 

[HeavyAssault]

My experience shows changing tuning files around takes more than a day to settle. I'd drive it a bit more than a day. Give it a week.

 

[06Mike]

Makes me a little nervous to drive around with EGT's floating around 1300 degrees when not at WOT. Hasn't been my experience with changing tunes before.

 

[HeavyAssault]

I don't blame you. With the changes you made it shouldn't be that high but considering the OAT at your location, hot tuning, the Atlas 40 it all plays a part.

The EBP readings you posted sound normal, maybe a tad high. Using 14.5 as standard atmospheric pressure minused from the SG2 reading of 26-28 shows an EBP of 11.5-13.5. If you were running 10PSI boost your ratio is pretty low. This tells me your tuning is adding too much fuel. Otherwise the PCM needs more time to learn the new airflow mixtures that it can use.

What are EGT's on a flat run?? (speed, boost, EBP, etc etc)

 

[twoicebergs]

The EBP readings you posted sound normal, maybe a tad high. Using 14.5 as standard atmospheric pressure minused from the SG2 reading of 26-28 shows an EBP of 11.5-13.5. If you were running 10PSI boost your ratio is pretty low. This tells me your tuning is adding too much fuel. Otherwise the PCM needs more time to learn the new airflow mixtures that it can use.

From his other thread, he was measuring 13 psi atmospheric, so the relative EBP was 13-15 psi for 10 psi of boost up a 10 mile 4-6% grade. Both boost and EBP may be a bit low, but not unreasonable. It is true that some tunes will run hotter with what seem to be nearly identical parameters, but just a few percent of vane and 0.1 - 0.2 of PW and a bit of injection timing can change the boost parameters enough to raise the temps 200 degrees for the same load.

As far as driving it a week to let the tune settle, IMO from the tests I have done, you will see immediate changes with the new tune. There might be very small changes over the course of a day or week, but you might not even notice them. I have never seen one where the temperatures did not change immediately, unless the turbo was not performing correctly.

 

[peixinho]

Need your help. I just did a Barder 1.5, Ported Intake Manifold, Driven Diesel RR, S&B CAI, Metal Cold Side Pipe with Riff Raff boots and a TB 4" Exhaust with no cat. I am on a stock fuel system and injectors. I also removed the scoop in the uppipe and welded a steel freeze plug in the uppipe side of the EGR cooler. I have done the bulletproofing and the FICM repaired with the Atlas 40. Stock wheels and tires. I started an other thread about MAP, BAR & EBP (Here : http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/639322-map-bar-ebp.html ). I am hitting 1300 degrees with the stock tune going 70 mph at 10lbs of boost on a slight grade. The SRL+ nets me 1250 degrees. This combo should give less EGT's not more. I am pushing way more air. Everything is tight. So all you guru's, what am I missing?

I just re read through this...

Are you saying that it was 1250 before and 1300 now... or are those different scenarios? Adding the FICM tuner will make temps go up

What are your cruising egts (70mph flat ground)

What is your boost at cruising speeds

What are you max WOT 0-100 egts

What is your max boost at WOT (like in 3rd gear)?

How do you know you don't have any boost leaks or exhaust leaks (they are very common and sometimes hard to find?

Have you checked your map, ebp, iat, maf sensor to make sure they are clean and connected right? (if they were slightly dirty, chaffed, clogged, or unplugged before then the mods you added could exaggerate any problems)

Are you still running the plastic side charge pipe? That is really common for cracks







The scenario you described is hard to judge how the truck is running. A slight grade to you might mean something different to me. Also it is hard to know how long this slight grade was? A descent grade with the 10 blade turbine, a hot SCT tune, and the atlas 40 could get up to 1350 egts especially if it was a long grade and you were accelerating before hand.