Are you using anything to monitor your truck? Have you pulled the code it throws when this is happening?

 

I was but I wasn't driving it for awhile so I gave it to a buddy but I just order a edge cs2 insight hopefully this can tell me what's going on. If I don't drive on the freeway the wrench light won't come on and it won't make that loud fan noise

 

My bet is a clogged oil cooler, but the monitor will tell.

Wrench lights are service now lights vs a normal check engine light which means can wait a little longer. The wrench light shuts off and resets when powered down. This restarts a timer. A lot of these algorithms will say something similar to “myst be in excess of 25 degrees for 20 minutes” prior to the light going on. So when you shut off the truck, the problem is still there.

 

If you are looking for a coolant filter I would look into the IPR coolant filter/manifold route. I plan on getting one in the future and it is a little more expensive than the sinister one. It allows for 100% coolant filtration whereas those other filters only see some of the coolant. @MtnTallPaul just put one on his truck and could probably tell you more than I can, but it seems like he doesn’t regret his choice.

 

@MtnTallPaul just put one on his truck and could probably tell you more than I can, but it seems like he doesn’t regret his choice.

The IPR coolant filter is one of the more expensive ones out there, but I was happy with the build quality and completeness of the kit.

I just wish I had known about the coolant manifold that IPR sells for use with the cooler. The manifold greatly simplifies the installation, and as an added benefit greatly simplifies backflushing the oil cooler. I'll probably get one and install it the future.

 

Everything is stock expect the studs and the egr delete

You may or may not have much to worry about.

From what I have learned, there are different methods of "EGR delete", mostly having to do with the EGR cooler.

The "road" to head gasket failure that begins with a plugged oil cooler results in inadequate coolant flow to the EGR cooler, which is downstream from the oil cooler. Lack of proper coolant flow leads to a ruptured EGR cooler, coolant in the intake manifold, and subsequently in one or more cylinders. This tremendously increases pressure in the cylinder leading to head gasket failure. I think I have this right, but I am sure someone will correct me if I misstated something.

Now, the reason for the explanation above...

If the "EGR delete" done on your engine included removal of the EGR cooler, or disconnection of the cooler from the coolant system, then the failure mode described above isn't likely to happen on your truck.

You might be able to determine this by tracing the coolant line coming from the back of the oil cooler housing. As built, that line went to the EGR cooler on the passenger side of the engine. If the cooler has been removed or coolant has been rerouted around the cooler, the line from the oil cooler most likely runs to the underside of the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine.

If this is the case, the "only" consequence of a plugged oil cooler is elevated oil temps. How elevated will be a function of how badly plugged the oil cooler is and how hard the engine is working.

The consensus appears to be that if you are cruising a while at 60 MPH with the engine fully warmed up and the difference between coolant and oil temperature exceeds 15 degrees, it's time for an oil cooler.

 

If you see an excessive delta between ECT and EOT when you get a monitor, in my signature block you’ll see a flush procedure and it has a back flush in there that can bring down temps.

Besides the wrench light, a fan coming on like that points me to high oil temps.

 

Gonna own a diesel, you need to be able to get codes and monitor the system when there is a problem

These should be mandatory for any 6.0
Fuel pressure gauge -- M12x1.5 thread adapter
Base oil pressure gauge -- test port on front of oil cooler housing 9/16x18 imperial o-ring fitting

I suggest downloading ForScan and using the OBDLink MX+ or the BAFX adapter for troubleshooting
Torque Pro would be good for everyday use with an old phone or tablet
Scan Gauge is small and simple -- can be mounted in front of the instrument cluster
there are other monitors, but the price goes higher

Download FORScan

you do not need the license for troubleshooting

OBDLink MX+

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My 2005 6.0L does the same thing.
Check the error codes.
My truck produces Error Code:
P012F = Engine coolant and engine oil temperature Correlation
My understanding is that the oil is getting too HOT. I am pushing the truck too hard.
I live in Florida. It usually happens on hot days (> 100F) and I am running the truck at full throttle too much.
These Trucks are GREAT! Could use more HP!
Good luck.
I am happy with my 2005 642,000 miles and running GREAT!

 

We have hot days in S. Texas. My oil does not get too hot even w/ my SRL+ tune.

 

My oil cooler is probably not working 100%.

 

P012F = Engine coolant and engine oil temperature Correlation -- just means there is too much difference in the coolant and oil temps -- a bad thermostat can also cause this

you need to check the readings from the temp sensors, there are 5, and see if they read the same with the engine cooled off

 

Thanks for the information. I appreciate the help.
I will have my diesel mechanic check the 5 temp sensors, the next time it is in the shop.
I am running a stock motor, with EGR delete.
The tool light only comes on when I am running at 20 psi turbo for extended periods of time (10 minutes or more).
I think the root problem, is that the stock truck does not have enough HP, to do what I am trying to do (usually towing on the interstate). I am pushing the motor too hard.
Thanks again for all your help.

 

Pushing an engine hard should not throw a wrench light, stock or otherwise. That is not normal.

 

Thanks for your help.
I will have my diesel mechanic check for error codes.

 

See post #14 and check the codes and temperatures your self

 

Ok I just fixed my oil cooler with a backflush about month and half ago I had a big trip going up north a almost 3 hour drive. I made it up north no problem but while I was up there my truck started to make a really loud ringing nosie ( that's how I've described it) it's loaded then the truck itself but also my ac was acting weird too it would blow hot then when you shut the truck off and turn it back on the ac was fine. Is this a symptom of a bad pulley bearing I can't think of anything else it could be. The noise is only on a cold start but as the truck warms up the noise goes away it's a 2006 xlt thank you in advance for any opinions I will post a video of it in the morning when I do a cold start again

 

Tinnitus?

Given your ac issues, my guess it your ac pulley bearing is shot.