Maybe? It's really hard to tell without seeing the actual quote on paper. Can you post both quotes? And I'm going to assume the shop you usually use is adding on stuff that might be required or is good to replace or put new orings on while in there ( injectors, standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fitting, lifters, pushrods, etc) and the other shop isn't adding that on. But only the quotes will tell.

Money aside, if you end up buying "new" heads (they really aren't new unless they are aftermarket cast), you might as well go with KDD cast oringed heads. A lot of testing was involved and I have yet to see a bad review on them.

 

Money aside, if you end up buying "new" heads (they really aren't new unless they are aftermarket cast), you might as well go with KDD cast oringed heads. A lot of testing was involved and I have yet to see a bad review on them.

Have you looked at over-the-counter heads from Ford? The ones I've seen are all new, although I don't see a lot. ANWB would be in a better position to say.

 

When you have more than 200k on it, do the lifters too.

 

its sitting at 243k atm

anyone else that can chime in?

 

I went for a new reman…sure costs more but at least you have something that adds value to the vehicle…

 

It all depends on the other parts that will be installed and what the costs for them are. Some shops discount MSRP, some charge at that level, and some charge higher than MSRP. Some of that is dependent on what their local dealer parts manager is willing to sell them for.

 

I will add to my last post about not doing anything else while the heads are off and to get a quote about getting OEM fuel injectors. Should be close to parts only. If so, I would consider that.

I think fuel injectors at around 225k preventative may be good, especially if the price is close to parts only.

Resist the urge to upgrade injectors.

 

injectors were replaced i think 80k ago. i was able to find all the service records at ford from the previous owner

 

that is to cheap If you do not get O ringed heads or if you allow people who do not understand the nature of this beast you will statistically be very likely to be paying for this work a second time.
-arp studs lubed properly installed with a snap on or equivalent top shelf torque wrench
-deck surface straight and finish verified to be <30 ra with a profilometer
-kd iron heads with mahle gasket.

this is the trinity of never having to do gaskets on that engine again and if you or the mechanic wants to compromise on any of those you will probably regret it.

 

-kd iron heads with mahle gasket.

What do you think about using FelPro HGs?

 

No the master; just a guy with a viewpoint.

As Bullet Proof Diesel posted on this forum (my measurements differ slightly), Fel-Pro thickened the 4th layer, which is folded over as the sprung fire ring that moves to provide a consistent seal when the heads distort upwards from the combustion event. It's 0.002" thicker. This is more stable, like using larger doubled joists to prevent deflation, trying to keep the gasket from moving sideways between the cylinders' narrow area, and preventing the sealant from abrading away.

Layer two also has an accordion fold and a backer ring. So there are several reinforcements to keep the sealing area doing the job.

 

so a little update
had to call the shop. my guy wasn't there, owner took him out all week on a "ataboy" ski trip
talked to another guy that didn't know a lot that was going on
but told me they plan to get on it next monday and start all the work
i said, what work? last i heard they were going to do more tests to see if it was gaskets...
he then explained gaskets, studs, and machine shop. $6741 apparently it was all written up
next i said i never approved any of that work.
so ill just wait till my guy comes back and get a copy of the quote and see what they are doing.

 

As long as the machine shop is good and do the heads right that sounds pretty reasonable. Now the fact that they green lighted it without telling you first is some what troublesome.

 

i agree, i didnt appreciate that.
maybe he took our second conversation as go ahead. but i know i never said "go ahead", "lets fix it" or anything close to that.

 

It depends on where the o-ring is placed, its diameter. KDD says their heads can use the Fel-Pro; UFC from a few years back says no, they are not compatible.

Could you please delete that picture.

 

no problem, sorry

 

Nobody likes it when their joist deflate ;-)

 

@Riddick.From.Toronto yeah what I'm saying is if the shop is good then they will know whether the heads are salvageable or whether to screw with them. Again still doesn't change the fact that the price is pretty reasonable for work done so not sure what you are getting at.

 

I think he's getting at how with 6.0 heads, the objective isn't to get it to look shiney and like a mirror. I seen a video ( might have been @TooManyToys ) that explained there was a special surface on the head that should not be removed. And normal machine shops just want it to be shiney. That's fine for most engines but not ours.

 

Thanks, Riddick.

 

so are getting new heads worth it rather than milling the originals?

 

I think KDD heads are 100% worth it. But I would much rather see the condition of your heads before you make a decision on buying new heads or just machining.

But since you have a shop doing it, I would let them deal with it and warranty it. That way if it fails again, you get to have head gaskets for free. Unless you want the KDD heads. There is a lead time though and who knows what kinda back-ordering is going on right now.

 

subscribing

 

got ahold of my boy

full Mahle (heads, upper, etc..) gasket set
heads go to machine shop. first thing they do is pressure test and make sure theyre not cracked and then keep going
stand pipes always get replaced with new gaskets
they will assess the rockers, rods and all to see if they need to be replaced.
arp studs
current quote is 6741
if everything goes perfect, he said i could get out of there for 6500.

 

I think the best course is to just replace the rods anyways, and lifters. Rods and lifters are cheaper than a whole engine

 

Is this a "cab on" / "engine in" head job?
At this mileage I would definitely renew the lifters when the heads are already down.

 

well here is the damage. parts prices are inflated but ill have 24 month warranty on them
ended up being 7958 after IN taxes
i asked for the new degas bottle.
the alternator they found to be broken. then the new alternator crapped the bed and they had to replace it again
thermostat blew up from all the pressure that built up in the system
all the intake valves were replaced at the machine shop
when putting it back together they found a couple of the fins broken off on the water pump. they did not charge me for a new one
one of the glow plugs ohmed out ok but the tip was burned off. so they replaced it
the pass hub was a leftover from earlier i had been putting off

 

There were definitely a number of things wrong, the glow plug should have been picked up with a code. This thread was started with the presumption of the head gaskets failed, and none of us asked the question why that was, resulting in a lot of discussion about heads and gaskets. But no one asked about symptoms.

Asking to have the degas bottle suggests puking. That may have been the water pump missing fins rather than a head gasket issue, or if it occurred, the cause of it.

 

There were definitely a number of things wrong, the glow plug should have been picked up with a code. This thread was started with the presumption of the head gaskets failed, and none of us asked the question why that was, resulting in a lot of discussion about heads and gaskets. But no one asked about symptoms.

Asking to have the degas bottle suggests puking. That may have been the water pump missing fins rather than a head gasket issue, or if it occurred, the cause of it.

i wanted the degas bottle because the old one had a film around the top and i never got around to replacing it. it had nothing to do with the issue afaik

glow plug was found when they put the engine back together. electrically it was fine so idk if it wouldve thrown a code.

 

I know you said it ohm'd out OK, and maybe that's all the software looks for. A lost tip is not a good situation, though.

 

update to this.
drove the truck on the weekend and saw some more leaks. took the truck back on monday and left it.
looked to be leaking at where it was and also wet on the oil pan seals

they tore the engine down and essentially redid all the work on their dime.
but they suggested replacing the oil pan seal and base plate gasket(which they had not touched before) as they were soaking through also. supposedly by the book, baseplate is a 39hr job. since my engine was already apart it made it a 9hr job. so i said go ahead.
the main seal was also replaced. he said he didn't like the look of the main bearings so replaced those, only charging for the bearings.
after all that i paid another 1600.

and i still don't have the truck

drove it home last night, stopped for fuel about .5 mile from the shop. after i was done, started it up and wouldn't go into drive. felt like the shift linkage broke.
when the tow guy got there, he said hold on. hit the ground and slid under the truck for 10s. came out and it went into drive

in fords infinite "wisdom", put in a plastic clip to hold our shift linkage on the underside.
so i drove back to the shop and they'll call when they get a new clip installed.