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Front cover, rear cover, and bedplate sealing advice

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psu927

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Installing a replacement motor in my truck, while its out, its getting all new gaskets and seals. Can anyone give me and tips to be sure I won't be doing this again ever? I ordered all OEM gaskets and for RTV. My main concerns are the front and rear covers, and bedplate and oil pan. I've heard people talk about silicone, I am assuming they are just referring to the rtv? Should I rtv the whole bedplate or just where the front and rear covers meet? Thanks guys.

Also doing front seal and rear main seal, anyone done them without fords special tools?
 
#2 ·
I'm trying to figure out the front seal as well. Accurate Diesel sells a cheaper-than-OCT tool sold for the front seal - its basically a metal cup that's about the right size. Not sure how well it works. http://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/261.html

I've also seen a video of someone using the crank bolts with a cut down washer to press it in. Here it is:



The rear can be done without the tool if your careful.
 
#4 ·
I dont think the bedplate requires anything special. My machinist put mine back on, but I'm pretty sure you just put the seal in the channels, then RTV the corners.

Found a video, and it looks like that's pretty much it
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Hey guys, quick question. Did the bedplate seal, but it's still upside down on my stand and I have a question. I installed the seal, and put a thin film of Ford RTC inside the gasket on the bedplate and block. As well as on the corners where the covers meet. I did this for added protection. Is this ok? I was thinking it might mess with the tolerances but ford calls to put it on the corners anyway so I am thinking a thin film won't effect it.
 
#10 ·
psu927 said:
Hey guys, quick question. Did the bedplate seal, but it's still upside down on my stand and I have a question. I installed the seal, and put a thin film of Ford RTC inside the gasket on the bedplate and block. As well as on the corners where the covers meet. I did this for added protection. Is this ok? I was thinking it might mess with the tolerances but ford calls to put it on the corners anyway so I am thinking a thin film won't effect it.
Click to expand...
Wont mess with the tolerances at all (unless you use a chit ton of it) I have taken to doing them this way as well. I put the silicone on the inside edge of the gasket. I have talked to a lot of ford techs that are doing them this way also to prevent the seaping that these get around the bedplate seal. Also talked with the 2 machine shops I use and they do the same thing. Again THIN film only.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
toren302 said:
Wont mess with the tolerances at all (unless you use a chit ton of it) I have taken to doing them this way as well. I put the silicone on the inside edge of the gasket. I have talked to a lot of ford techs that are doing them this way also to prevent the seaping that these get around the bedplate seal. Also talked with the 2 machine shops I use and they do the same thing. Again THIN film only.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Do you use the Ford (Motocraft) RTV?
 
#14 ·
Sounds like your not quite there yet, but I just did my front seal today without the fancy tool. I put the wear ring in my toaster oven for about 15 mins on 450*F. Go put some loctite on the crank snout right before fetching the hot ring. Then i used a welding glove to rush it out to the motor where I was able to just get it started before it cooled enough to get tight again. At this point, it was maybe 1/10th on.

You cant just hammer it down from here or it'll bend (luckily I had a spare... first one got bent). I used a 2# brass hammer along with a micrometer to light tap around the ring in a circle, checking every time around to make sure its going on evenly. Get it more than 1/2 way on, then gently try to see if you can get the crank pulley on and the bolts to reach. Again, dont force it!

When its on enough for the bolts to start threading in, turn each bolt exactly 1 turn, then go around and turn each 1/4 turn at a time. This will make sure the wear ring is getting pressed on evenly and will avoid getting bent/kinked. With any luck, you'll get it all the way on without damaging it. The pulley pushes it on right to where it needs to be!

Lube up the rubber seal a little, then work it on over the wear ring, and just lightly work it until its flush with the edge of the pump housing. Done!

Will it leak? I dunno :) If it does, my machine shop owes me one, as they were supposed to have done this for me :p Should at least be enough to get me up to them to let them deal with it!
 
#15 ·
yinzer said:
Sounds like your not quite there yet, but I just did my front seal today without the fancy tool. I put the wear ring in my toaster oven for about 15 mins on 450*F. Go put some loctite on the crank snout right before fetching the hot ring. Then i used a welding glove to rush it out to the motor where I was able to just get it started before it cooled enough to get tight again. At this point, it was maybe 1/10th on.

You cant just hammer it down from here or it'll bend (luckily I had a spare... first one got bent). I used a 2# brass hammer along with a micrometer to light tap around the ring in a circle, checking every time around to make sure its going on evenly. Get it more than 1/2 way on, then gently try to see if you can get the crank pulley on and the bolts to reach. Again, dont force it!

When its on enough for the bolts to start threading in, turn each bolt exactly 1 turn, then go around and turn each 1/4 turn at a time. This will make sure the wear ring is getting pressed on evenly and will avoid getting bent/kinked. With any luck, you'll get it all the way on without damaging it. The pulley pushes it on right to where it needs to be!

Lube up the rubber seal a little, then work it on over the wear ring, and just lightly work it until its flush with the edge of the pump housing. Done!

Will it leak? I dunno :) If it does, my machine shop owes me one, as they were supposed to have done this for me :p Should at least be enough to get me up to them to let them deal with it!
Click to expand...
Most likely NOT.....

I have done several this way (front and rear) and not had an issue....I did just buy the front and rear install tools tho. Figured after about 10 installs I might as well invest in them. They do make it a He11 of a lot quicker install tho.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Questions questions..... So a little background, the engine in my 05 was replaced with an engine from an 04, and I am going back to an 05. the front cover was in the truck, hooked up but it's the wrong one for an 05 from what I am reading.... Does anyone know if there is any differences in the block its self or is it just the coolant ports for the PS pump? Also, what is the differences in the PS pumps? The one on the truck has places for 4 bolts, but only 3 bolts were in it. I just want to know for future parts etc... and to make sure its gonna work now.
 
#19 ·
Goodson Super Scrapers are the chit. There are three sizes. Do yourself a favor and get them all. Did I mention they are the chit? Bought them after seeing Toren's recommendation in the Block Prep thread. Thanks Toren!

As far as the bedplate goes, I just built a motor and used some Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on the outside surface of the bedplate, front cover, and rear cover. The surface next to the rubber seal if that makes sense. The thought behind this is that the rubber gaskets will seal first and the Form-A-Gasket will provide a backup seal. I put it on the outside to keep it away from the oil inside. It goes on fairly thin. I also wiped the Form-A-Gasket away from where the RTV would go.

As far as the RTV goes, I can't agree more with the others on the Motorcraft stuff. I had a brain fart when assembling the motor and had the cam out 90deg. When I pulled it apart to fix the timing, the rtv was stuck to any of the rubber gaskets it contacted. I have never used any kind of RTV silicone that did this before. I won't use anything else now, especially after seeing this. It may have had a week to cure.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Questions questions..... So a little background, the engine in my 05 was replaced with an engine from an 04, and I am going back to an 05. the front cover was in the truck, hooked up but it's the wrong one for an 05 from what I am reading.... Does anyone know if there is any differences in the block its self or is it just the coolant ports for the PS pump? Also, what is the differences in the PS pumps? The one on the truck has places for 4 bolts, but only 3 bolts were in it. I just want to know for future parts etc... and to make sure its gonna work now
 
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