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First diesel is a 04 6.0…..good or bad decision

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4.2K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  MtnTallPaul  
#1 ·
whats going on guys.
new to the diesel community and got a 2004 6.0. I read up and have a basic understanding of the 6.0 and the issues but as far as where i go from here? It has an egr delete from previous owner but priority is my main focus. I have a whole list of things i want to do to this bad larry but can wait until it becomes reliable…well as reliable as a 6.0 can be!
 
#2 ·
First thing you need to do is spend some time searching around this forum’s history pages and find out the common problems associated with the 6.0. Second thing is to get a monitor (ForScan)…maybe that’s actually the first thing you should do…do both at the same time! Anyway, you most likely will quickly figure-out that you got more engine for your money than most folks. But staying ahead of this engine is critical! Don’t be another 6.0 loser…read and learn about the very well known problems, come up with a game plan and then address them.
 
#3 ·
What @Spirit said about Forscan! You need to know what your ECT and EOT numbers are when driving on a flat road, 65-70 mph, unloaded. Those numbers and the delta will be one of the first things you should observe. A fuel pressure test should also be performed. Charging system and FICM voltage are really important too.

Does the truck already have a dedicated engine monitor? If not, you’ll definitely need it. Our late 03 and late 04 trucks both tow. I have Edge CTS monitors in both trucks so I can see what is happening at all times with ECT, EOT, EGT, TFT, Boost, battery voltage, FICM voltage, ICP, and corrected vehicle speed so I don’t get a ticket (again).

Is it an early or late build? A late build will have a build date after 9/22/03. Built before that, and you have an 03 engine. There are distinct differences between the two… EBP feedback, water pump size, ICP location, etc.

I own an 03 and 04 and we have loved them. We’ve done the maintenance and repairs (some costly) and they continue to serve us well. Between the two, the late 04 has been the least quirky. At 220k, I’m on original head gaskets and pull our fifth wheel with ease. At 240k, the 03 started showing signs of head gasket failure and is currently wrapping up a top end refresh and other upgrades.

Welcome!!
 
#7 ·
Ok definitely didnt know about the two different engines for the 04 but i guess that makes sense when i see 2004.5 when searching for parts! Mine was 06/2004. I did get the insight edge cts3 which is awesome i can monitor all my temps and my ficm voltage and my fuel injection pressure/voltage and other things. I plan on doing things like a blue spring kit, a sand filter, reg return etc. but getting into the “heavy hitters” i was thinkin new heads, an aftermarket oil cooler. Front end swap to get rid of the squea leaf springs. Definitely in over my head but just tryna get a good idea on where to start. Trucks on 300k on it. A vacuum leak and 4/6/8 glowplug open circuit. Starts up almost instantly. Stops on a dime. Definitely slow on take off but picks up really well. Im so excited to build it up and dreading the day my headgasket exits the chat
 
#11 ·
Not being argumentative… conservative driving (and monitoring) when pulling are always wise. But these trucks are made to work. Unloaded, one should engage in spirited driving (not abuse) to work the turbo and push out soot. These are not grocery getters… they are work horses.
 
#9 · (Edited)
06/2004 is ALMOST a 2005!!

Is the vacuum leak on the 4x4 or Climate Control?

The only "aftermarket oil cooler" worth considering are the ones from BulletProofDiesel. The OEM oil cooler is good IF you have a clean coolant system AND you switch to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant. Just be aware that the BPD oil coolers are VERY expensive.

Determining what your oil and coolant temperature split is should be your NUMBER 1 activity. You need your monitor to make that assessment. After you get the engine fully warmed up - drive it and watch your max oil and max coolant temps. Watch it at highway speeds, and I would even watch it when towing or accelerating.

The maximum difference SHOULD BE no more than 10 degrees. If it is more than 10, then you probably need a backflush of the coolant system - at a minimum. If it is over 15, then you may need a chemical flush also (and that increases the priority IMO).

being an '04 (even a LATE one), you still have the round aluminum HPOP that is a bit less that reliable. Just keep it in mind if you "dive into it" for major repairs and upgrades. You also have the wavy oil rails and the propensity for leaks that come with it. You might want to pull the drivers side valve cover (it is slightly easier to pull IMO) just to see if it has the upgraded standpipe and Dummy Plug. If it does, then hopefully the passenger side does as well.
 
#10 ·
Agree 100% with Mark and many others above.

Definitely monitor all the time.

Before you make any big plans for heads, check to see if studs are already there.

I would check the oil filter cap, make sure it is a Motorcraft cap (Not Tall). I might also just change my fuel filters now unless I was SURE the previous owner put in Motorcraft.

Be wise about "upgrades", some are just a waste of money IMO. Stuff like the 6.4 banjo bolt to me just aren't a good idea, but everyone has their own opinion on that. Bulletproof has a good concept going, but is it worth the money? Another question to debate over I guess!

When/if your HPOP fails, spend a little extra and get a CNCFab or Dieselsite pump (or late-pump swap it :ROFLMAO: ). Many of the aluminum round pumps can show up from the factory bad, or fail soon after.

Keep up on your maintenance! :D

That's my two cents.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Setting up to use Torque Pro and Forscan for monitoring and diagnosis costs about $60 or less including the hardware and software purchase.

I have used Torque Pro for monitoring since before I got my 6.0. Used Forscan for the first time today on my 4.6 gasser and I am impressed. It told me exactly what I needed to know.

Get set up to do detailed monitoring and diagnosis via your OBD2 port.

Or spend money you don't need to spend.

It's a choice. I doubt you will find anyone who thinks investment in an OBD2 adapter and some software is a poor investment.