Do you need emissions for a sticker? If so, block off plates would be the easiest route for you to go back to stock for one. If not, then you can pull it all off. No Limit plates are a favorite and I believe they're about $150 and fairy easy to install.

 

Nope no emissions needed.


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I guess my main question really boils down to: do I need to do dpf, egr, intake and cold side hose all at the same time? Or can I run the dpf delete, egr block/delete and programmer and still get decent performance until I can hit the intake and cold side tube when the funds are there?

Had a guy at a reputable shop tell me the truck wouldn’t run as good if I didn’t do all of it together basically. I got the impression he was just trying to up sell but I don’t know.

 

Had a guy at a reputable shop tell me the truck wouldn’t run as good if I didn’t do all of it together basically. I got the impression he was just trying to up sell but I don’t know.

Not "reputable" advice. They are trying to sell you stuff and labor you don't need to pay for.

The truck will run just fine with a tune, exhaust/space ship after burner removed, and the stock air intake. Get a drop in washable/fabric air filter and call it a day.

The easiest route is to just get block off plates and remove the EGR feed tube between the exhaust manifold and EGR cooler and between the cooler and intake.

Total removal of the cooler is not necessary at all and won't change how the truck performs.

Take away points:

aftermarket air intake makes no difference
cold side pipe is only needed if the factory one bursts
EGR cooler removal is a waste of time and $$

 

I would buy the delete kit, tuner and intake now and then buy the cold side tube and block off plates when money allows. When I bought my truck, the previous owner had ran it for around 30k miles deleted with an S&B intake. I replaced the cold side tube and installed EGR block off plates after I bought it.

 

Thanks guys that confirms what I hoped to hear. I will keep y’all updated with what I find out from the dealership.

 

Good luck. Maybe they’ll warranty it. If they do, stick a bit back here and there for what these guys suggested.

You won’t regret it.

 

When considering the work at hand here's what I would suggest:


1) DPF delete piping is easy to swap in albeit the weight may require the use of a friend.
2) Tuner use is WAY too easy these days. Stick to a simple device like the SCT styles or ngage devices.
3) Cold side pipe. Easy to do, almost getting to be a requirement.....just do it.
4) Here's the twist. EGR blocker plates can be done by you. A full on EGR delete does require more work. It's not really about costs here but the amount of work.
5) Intakes can eat up money so it's not "really" needed at this point. Save up for this down the road.

Or can I run the dpf delete, egr block/delete and programmer and still get decent performance until I can hit the intake and cold side tube when the funds are there?

Yes, give it a try. Worst that can happen is maybe "bad performance", but not likely.

 

When considering the work at hand here's what I would suggest:


1) DPF delete piping is easy to swap in albeit the weight may require the use of a friend.
2) Tuner use is WAY too easy these days. Stick to a simple device like the SCT styles or ngage devices.
3) Cold side pipe. Easy to do, almost getting to be a requirement.....just do it.
4) Here's the twist. EGR blocker plates can be done by you. A full on EGR delete does require more work. It's not really about costs here but the amount of work.
5) Intakes can eat up money so it's not "really" needed at this point. Save up for this down the road.

Yes, give it a try. Worst that can happen is maybe "bad performance", but not likely.

Man I appreciate the input. I believe I will be doing the dpf pipe and SCTX4 with tyrant tunes. I’m just gonna do the no limit block off plates while I’m at it since they are only 100$. Then as funds permit the cold side pipe and eventually an intake.



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Well it turns out the warranty company is not a ford warranty but AutoNation. And they are saying that it is not covered as part of the exhaust system even though it is required for the truck to run??? I will be addressing the lying dealership at a later time but it looks like I will be deleting all of the crap.


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Sierra Charlie 338 how you doing? Just joined the group I am in the same situation of deleting my 2012 6.7 I also purchased it at auto Nation on gulf Freeway. What issues did you encounter when you took yours in? Mine is shooting an exhaust temp control sensor code and I lost some power. I took it to a shop and it was recommended for me to delete and bypass the def and EGR. Any info is appreciated.

 

I am sorta in the same boat. I had an engine light come on in my 2016 6.7L power stroke (at 76k miles), so I took it in to the dealership and they told me the DEF heater failed which caused the DEF fluid to freeze. It stays below freezing for a good 5 months out of the year where I live. They quoted me 900 to thaw out the tank and replace the heater. I then took my truck to the auto parts store and had them do an OBD2 error code scan. The resulting code said to replace the DEF pump. It makes sense that if the fluid is frozen the pump cant move, so I assume it is the heater.. but this raises the question why didn't the code scan return a failed heater error instead? Now I need to decide whether to thaw out the tank and replace the heater for $150 or eliminate the need for DEF altogether. After doing a little research, I believe the latter would require me to do a DPF delete, EGR delete, and then re-program/tune it to prevent sensor errors caused by the removal of those systems... which would run me around $1500 to do it myself. Is it worth it? Should I expect more issues related to running DEF? I don't really care about a few MPG. I just want a reliable engine. Any advice?

 

Yes, if you delete all that stuff that's roughly what you'll be in for with parts, tuner and tune. You'll have power like you didn't before which is intoxicating, if you need emission stuff for a sticker then you'll have to put all that stuff back on each year to get one. If you don't, well the choice is yours really. Either fix it and probably won't have to worry about it again since you'll have updated parts, or delete it and call it a day.

 

The EGR kit and new exhaust pipe appear straight-forward enough but there are a lot of different options out there as far as tuners/tuning. What's the difference? What makes one better over another? I notice you have to buy a tuner device and then also have to buy the tune or programming for it. Is there one that comes with all the programming one would ever want?

 

Typically if you buy it all through someone it comes out a bit cheaper since they can usually discount the tuner a bit. It's all personal preference really on who, each truck is different.

 

Hey All. I am in the same boat. Just replaced my DEF heater for $1100 on my '16 6.7 and am starting on the research of deletes. I contacted SCT and they stated their tuners don't support deletes. The tuning and DPF removal process looks straight forward enough. What I am seeing about the EGR removal and plumbing re-rrouting looks a little daunting. Especially the one screw that commonly breaks and the back nut that has the little plate that has to be hack sawed off. Anyone have any advice on this?

 

Anyone have any advice on this?

If you are in the US make sure you have a tuner in hand and someone to put tunes on it before you start down this path.

 

Soak with PB, let it run for 20 minutes, soak again, run for 20. Work it out slowly. Mine came out with no problems.

 

If your truck falls in the parameters; Ford will fix it.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10137151-9999.pdf

If not keep raising a stink and maybe this will get extended to your year/model.